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What are you driving with your BlackBox?
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FreeBug
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PostPosted: Fri May 14, 2021 2:04 am    Post subject: What are you driving with your BlackBox? Reply with quote

Hi.

Are you triggering th coil directly from the BlackBox, or are you inputting into a "multi-spark CDI box" of some sort, then coil?

Right now I have Hall effect -> BlackBox -> Coil.

It seems to be working, on the bench, with no load. But could I do better?

Thanks.
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FreeBug
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PostPosted: Sat May 15, 2021 2:23 am    Post subject: Re: What are you driving with your BlackBox? Reply with quote

Nada?

Basically, I keep reading conflicting info:

-"it can't hurt"- so, that somehow, those multi-sparks are going to going to help, even though it's a normal mild (9.5 static with just under 8 dynamic) street application: Maybe cold, or extreme A/F ratios? I don't think I need anything special for street use?

-"it failed"- there are people out there complaining about how boxes fail, some early, some later, but how reliable are these things? I'm afraid I'm just adding a potential failure point between the BB and the spark.

Or should I be experimenting with plasma, worth the time and effort? Shocked

I have very limited experience with these things...I've only ever run an MSD 5200, and I'm not really sure if it's doing anything. It seems pretty light to me, too! Anything in there?

I think the best improvement I can make to the ignition is get the spark timing as precise as possible...but I'm where I'm at (WBX dizzy with Hall) with that, and, as much as I would like to (future prject?), I'm not going to crank fire in the near future.

Any thoughts? I've read the BlackBox threads, but I'm looking for input on MSD, Mallory, Jacob, Crane, box longevity, best spark/$ ratio, etc...

I am, of course, hoping for " I bought this box for (cheap), and it TRANSFORMED the way the engine runs" story. If it's really NOT true, please make one up. Laughing

Seriuosly: there is an entire industry devoted to making ignition bits, and 90% of the time, they don't seem to change much in driving experience. I assume the improved mileage claims are mostly bogus, too? I don't have any long-term experience with this stuff.
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Alstrup
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PostPosted: Sat May 15, 2021 3:16 am    Post subject: Re: What are you driving with your BlackBox? Reply with quote

Which ever way you want.
You can even trigger it with points, but I wouldnt recommend that though.
DIY plasma ignition can work very well. Just remember to not "overdo" it. At a given point the plug life takes a serius dive.

The reason to why I write that plasma " can work very well" is that I have seen very variating benefits from it. Some engines (combo´s) respond great to it, other engines "couldn´t care less, and I for one still have no idea why.
A common benefit on all set ups is that cold start is improving radically. Set up right a dual carbed engine will idle after only a few seconds even in sub zero temperatures. Also, emissions are greatly reduced.

For normal dual carbed street engines I think the best bang for the buck is a 60 KV E core coil followed up with some good wires such as Taylor 8,2´s or MSD super conductor. That along with an electronic module and say a BB or Daytona works well.
If you are beginning on a clean sheet of paper there is of course the Megajolt and Nodiz systems that run wasted spark. WS works fine up to around 255-260 degrees @ 0,050" cam duration. Above that I would go sgl spark.
I was an avid user of the modded PCD system I incidently cooked up. Also called "poor mans CDI" but not anymore, because I have realized that no matter where I bought diodes from they were nowhere near the lifespan the manufacturers claimed, - unless the diodes were so expensive that they killed the deal.

So now I am back to using a good deal of "mild" CDI´s with regular coils on street engines (when I am allowed by the customer) The reason is that with say std plus engines where you are on the limit with especially lower rpm mix quality the multistrike, and the more powerfull spark helps a good deal on both idle quality, idle stability, emissions and lower rpm power.

PS. Speaking of idle quality and stability. This is actually one of the areas where a BB, Daytona, Megajolt or Nodiz REALLY shine over say the popular 123 tune. With the 123 you can not take advantage of the vacum signal below 12-1300 rpm since the 123 is basicly an electronic svda on that account.
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FreeBug
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PostPosted: Sat May 15, 2021 7:01 am    Post subject: Re: What are you driving with your BlackBox? Reply with quote

Thanks!

So, as for 60 KV E-coil, I assume you mean somethin like this:

https://vwparts.aircooled.net/Pertronix-60kV-HV-E-core-Ign-Coil-3ohm-60130-p/60130.htm

stupid question: is it beneficial NOT to mount it on the shroud? Where do you put something that size?

So, Hall WBX distributor -> BlackBox -> Pertronix coil -> large tang, resistance-less rotor -> Good plug wires -> protruding nose plugs with no resistance

I have some Magnecor plug wires. Are those ok? If you don't know, I'll just get the ones you recommended.

About fittings...is it worth using the "modern" male fittings on coil, dizzy and plugs?

As for plasma, how much is too much? How far can too far go? I haven't read up on the subject in quite some time, i guess it's time to start learning it all over again... Laughing

something-something about capacitors...
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PostPosted: Sat May 15, 2021 7:41 am    Post subject: Re: What are you driving with your BlackBox? Reply with quote

If you have room in the engine compartment. You can mount the coil in there.
I mounted Crane LX-92 coil in the rear package tray inside the passenger cabin.
I wouldn't recommend mounting on the FS.

I used a firewall bulk head connector to get the HT lead from the package tray to the engine compartment. and then to the distributor.
You can get the firewall bulkhead HT lead connector from Summit Racing.

I'm not 100% clear on what your seeking here. Torben gets it, But I'm a bit thickheaded. Shocked

I run the Cheap Chinese Crane/MSD clone setup in my 67. And can report that the spark improvement really helps with cold starts and overall performance.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=732536

Before completion of the CDI/Coil installation.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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Alstrup
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PostPosted: Sat May 15, 2021 7:45 am    Post subject: Re: What are you driving with your BlackBox? Reply with quote

Yes, that or similar.
Wrt installation. I usually just mount 4 new thread rivets and place it just about where it sits normally, or if you use a hex bar linkage, down low on the shroud.
Rotor, yes, Or at least use the newer 020-743. That is a good rotor.
Magnecor. Ahh, well, Idunno. Magnecor use materials with a lot of resistance to get the wires EMI/RFI secure. The claim is that it is better than using low resistance coal or carbon core Let me put it this way: Not my cuppa tea. Also, IF that was really true, why are just about every modern engine with CNP coils equipped with low resistance wires? And just about every other engine with COP? It does not make sense to me. IMHO anything over 300 ohm/ft does not make sense, especially not in a higher performance set up. Today we can make 0 ohm/ft. and do, but that is a little more expensive and not really interesting unless you run a high boost turbo and/or exotic fuels.

Plasma. How much is too much. - That is actually a really good question, which I can´t answer fully. I do not have enough experience. I/we are still fumbling around, sorta. It also depends on which plugs you use. There are many variables that I for one are not fully aquainted with. And for high end racing we might end up being overtaken by Transient ignition systems which already now has shown tremendeous emission reductions in both gasoline and post chamber diesel engines. Heavy fuel engines in particular.
Porsche was supposidly coming out with their version of Transient ignition in their top 2022 models, but the Covid 19 situation put a couple of rocks on the road. As far as I have heard it will be pusponed 1 year...
On the other hand. Transient ignition is not for us halfassed amateurs. We best learn to undertand a few other things first.
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Last edited by Alstrup on Sat May 15, 2021 8:04 am; edited 1 time in total
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PostPosted: Sat May 15, 2021 8:03 am    Post subject: Re: What are you driving with your BlackBox? Reply with quote

i cant tell you anything about all the other goodies your asking about but i would say that if this is your first time setting up a black box then id keep it simple for now and add those goodies after your confident in your black box instal and tune. reason i say that is just so you can keep possible error areas to a minimum and keep from chasing ghosts.
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PostPosted: Sun May 16, 2021 12:10 am    Post subject: Re: What are you driving with your BlackBox? Reply with quote

richardcraineum wrote:
i cant tell you anything about all the other goodies your asking about but i would say that if this is your first time setting up a black box then id keep it simple for now and add those goodies after your confident in your black box instal and tune. reason i say that is just so you can keep possible error areas to a minimum and keep from chasing ghosts.


Hehe, how did you know my propensity for screwing up as soon as I make it too complicated? Laughing Good advice, thanks. It's fuel-injection, too, so enough stuff to keep track of as it is. I am exactly the guy who needs to heed that advice. Wink

But, at the same time, I'm thinking I need to get a good, strong spark sorted before fine-tuning the fuel, so I can see how lean I can get it to still fire usefully.

Thanks, Mr. Alstrup. Thanks to all of you for the pointers. I guess I'm changing plug wires...to? and do I need to increase wire outside diameter to get what I want, or can stock-sized wires suffice? Many ignition boxes seem to exclude copper-core wire. Experiences?

I already have the Injection box, and the BB inside, on the wall of the parcel shelf. My concern was that if I also put the coil back there, and put the spark through the firewall, I'd be introducing another source of potential interference. I want to make sure these different boxes are talking to each other in the right way, not whispering to each other behind my back.

If it's ok to put it on the shroud, I will; I even have threaded inserts for sheet-metal. It will keep the wires short, too.

Thanks, all, I'm starting to see more clearly what I should be aiming for. As for fittings, I would like to upgrade the weather-resistance of the stock fittings, like go from a Beetle dizzy cap to a Golf-type one, use plug fittings with sealed rubber onto the plug, with the larger terminal nut, rather than the stock phenolite (or whatever they are), any other ideas? I put silicone grease on all the seals to help with waterproofing. Good practice?

Funny: to me, this is all very fancy, advanced, modern spark making....but the industry has moved on to distributor-less, driven spark-on-coil already. I finally get my fuel injection system working again, and the industry has already moved on to direct injection.

Is there any reason to go to platinum or iridium plugs, other than longevity, in our applications? Mr. Tucker swears my them, but his builds are a bit more "advanced" than mine...also, I have OK access to my plugs.
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PostPosted: Sun May 16, 2021 12:35 pm    Post subject: Re: What are you driving with your BlackBox? Reply with quote

FreeBug wrote:
richardcraineum wrote:
i cant tell you anything about all the other goodies your asking about but i would say that if this is your first time setting up a black box then id keep it simple for now and add those goodies after your confident in your black box instal and tune. reason i say that is just so you can keep possible error areas to a minimum and keep from chasing ghosts.


Hehe, how did you know my propensity for screwing up as soon as I make it too complicated? Laughing Good advice, thanks. It's fuel-injection, too, so enough stuff to keep track of as it is. I am exactly the guy who needs to heed that advice. Wink

But, at the same time, I'm thinking I need to get a good, strong spark sorted before fine-tuning the fuel, so I can see how lean I can get it to still fire usefully.

Thanks, Mr. Alstrup. Thanks to all of you for the pointers. I guess I'm changing plug wires...to? and do I need to increase wire outside diameter to get what I want, or can stock-sized wires suffice? Many ignition boxes seem to exclude copper-core wire. Experiences?

I already have the Injection box, and the BB inside, on the wall of the parcel shelf. My concern was that if I also put the coil back there, and put the spark through the firewall, I'd be introducing another source of potential interference. I want to make sure these different boxes are talking to each other in the right way, not whispering to each other behind my back.

If it's ok to put it on the shroud, I will; I even have threaded inserts for sheet-metal. It will keep the wires short, too.

Thanks, all, I'm starting to see more clearly what I should be aiming for. As for fittings, I would like to upgrade the weather-resistance of the stock fittings, like go from a Beetle dizzy cap to a Golf-type one, use plug fittings with sealed rubber onto the plug, with the larger terminal nut, rather than the stock phenolite (or whatever they are), any other ideas? I put silicone grease on all the seals to help with waterproofing. Good practice?

Funny: to me, this is all very fancy, advanced, modern spark making....but the industry has moved on to distributor-less, driven spark-on-coil already. I finally get my fuel injection system working again, and the industry has already moved on to direct injection.

Is there any reason to go to platinum or iridium plugs, other than longevity, in our applications? Mr. Tucker swears my them, but his builds are a bit more "advanced" than mine...also, I have OK access to my plugs.


To many people think that noble metal or special spark plugs are all gimmicks...simply because they may swap a set in....with no other changes to the engine, fuel or ignition components....and see no apparent change.

Not to get too deep into it in this thread.....but all of the noble metal plugs have the same benefit in common.....very long wear cycle at higher temperatures. Secondary benefit is that some plugs have slightly lower resistance and can show benefit to ignition systems that have a weak component or output.

Actually a more accurate way to say it is that the noble metal plugs have a higher electrical "potential".
This can be perceived as they have a lower resistance to propagating an arc or spark.

Good spark between various metals is not just about voltage...its about current (amperage)...and they are inversely related depending on resistance and potential.

Some basic information about potential versus resistance:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


One of the big takeaways from that set....the first one...is if ...for a set resistance (the combination of your rotor, wires and plug resistance)....increasing the potential...increases current (amps).

2nd part.....at a set potential...if you increase resistance....current (amps) decreases.

While you usually need a minimum VOLTAGE to strike an arc.....you also need CURRENT....to maintain that arc in a stable, high temperature manner.
This is why having a rotor, wires and plugs with too high of a combined resistance....with a coil of given output....can create a weak or unstable spark.

In a nutshell:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


In order of their goodness:

1. Original "single" platinum plugs...meaning just the tip of the center electrode was platinum...and very fine in diameter....and slightly lower electrical potential and was a benefit to cars with some mileage on them in the 1980's.....usually with less than perfect ignition systems. It produced notably easier cold starting. This was one of the first major advertising claims that Bosch used.
They actually work quite well with the basic stock 18-20KV coil on a stockish engine. Smaller sparks ...but required less energy to arc.

2. Platinum/Platinum....double platinum plugs.
These have a platinum center electrode just like the single platinum (sometimes bigger in diameter) and a tiny platinum donut sintered to the side ground electrode.
Really....these have same effect as single platinum....but the extra electrode pad means even longer mileage because the platinum erodes slower than the normal side electrode metal with no platinum on it. They produces bigger sparks on more modern high energy ignition systems.

3. Iridium. Higher temperature and even longer life than platinum and double platinum.

This issue with lifespan is a big one.....mainly with modern ignition systems. The gaps from plug to plug need to be uniform as possible ...because many up to date ignition systems use the plug potential and resistance as a sensor to vary fuel and spark energy as well as timing. In any systems....this is used in place of a knock sensor.

And....since all of these metals are VERY brittle....its almost impossible to re-gap them. So a huge benefit of iridium plugs is that they maintain their gap for a long time and you do not have to re-gap them.

This does NOT mean that they do not wear. Just that the wear does not get significant for a LONG time. Typically double mileage of a copper/nickel plug. About 50k miles is sane. They can last much longer....but above that...the wear gets to be enough that it gives sensing type ignitions a very hard time.


By the way...platinum has lower electrical resistivity than iridium....but it also has a 1200* lower melting point than iridium. Its why iridium is used and more expensive and lasts longer. They are both very low resistivity and when used in plugs...have a higher potential....so make better, high amperage sparks when supplied with high voltage.

This same issue....potential....is why the triple electrode plugs we frequently talk about around here.....work well ....in systems that can supply them...and in engines that need them. They have higher potential....or more precisely....at any given time....one electrode or another will have higher potential than the other two due to temperature, fuel mixture density etc.

Would you benefit from platinum or iridium? Yes...and if for no other reason...for long mileage alone they will be of a benefit.

Sorry for the length. Ray
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