Rear hatch power lock slider - part is NLA?

[shizzon]

The little rod that the horseshoe shaped piece slides back and forth on on my rear hatch seems to be damaged and I can't find the part anywhere. Does anyone know what this thing is called? I'm not actually sure if I need just the rod or the entire horsehoe thing that pivots, but I can't find either.

Here's a picture that someone else posted that shows what I'm talking about.

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1989 Bostig Syncro Westy

[jmranger]

The two names I see are connecting rod and actuator control rod.
I couldn't find a place selling it.
What's the problem exactly ?

[shizzon]

The thing that slides was getting 'stuck' and unable to slide because the little spring loaded nub was not able to make it over a divet in the metal (it slides along the piece of metal right by the picture above where the persons finger is). I've filed that down a bit and cleaned/lubed and it seems to be working for now, but I'm not confident its gonna hold forever.
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1989 Bostig Syncro Westy

[syncrodoka]

Sounds like your power rear hatch lock is worn. The U shaped piece with a paddle opposite it that slides on a metal shaft is part of that mechanism.

[shizzon]

Yes, it is definitely worn. I pulled it, cleaned it, and lubed it and it sort of seems to be working now, which you can see in the second youtube video - but it seems to occasionally get 'caught' in the little divet and be unable to slide. there is also some play in the thing that slides such that when the motor pushes on it it kind of rotates rather than smoothly goes back and forth...


Link



Link


It's now installed in the van, so I'll have to see how long it works. Oh yes, and FWIW the part # for this piece is 251 829 231F
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1989 Bostig Syncro Westy

[doodledee]

i had same issue with very sticky rear hatch power lock linkage. it actually got so sticky that it ended up melting the power lock actuator in the rear hatch, which smelled horrible and thankfully didn't catch van on fire.

my fix was some 220 grit sanding of the surface the linkage slides on. also replaced melted actuator with the newer eurovan actuator, which requires rebuilding the wiring harness. i had put these in driver/passenger doors a few years ago and they have been really solid.

[DLJ]

I have a fix that Ive done several times. Remove the small brass pin that slides back and forth, there is a small spring inside. Shorten the pin slightly, and reduce a small amount of spring coil.
reassemble and lube.

[ALIKA T3]

The pin bore gets worn out and the pin get cocked sideways fighting the ramps it slides on . Smoothen the ramps angle with a Dremel. I do it all the time at the shop. Another local mechanic always disconnects the rod and blocks the mechanism from sliding by itself with a piece of hose, that's his signature. I find it very annoying mechanics don't put the time to fix things properly, or maybe it was a cheap customer who didn't wanna dump money into the proper repair.

Well, I make my own rods now when they are missing bc it's quite common locally. It's not hard. a piece of ground bare copper wire works well.
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Silicone Steering Boots and 930 Cv boots for sale in the classifieds.
Syncro transmission upgrade parts in the Classifieds.
Subaru EJ22+UN1 5 speed transmission
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=416343
Syncro http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4...num+gadget