Morse Cable giving me the herky jerky

[kangaboy]

So I've been dealing with this since I bought a new Morse cable to replace my previous one that seized up on me.
Throttle now slides silky smooth, so smooth in fact, that every time i take off from a stop, it shakes the crap out of me.
Basically, I give it a little throttle to take off from the stop sign, it hits the accel pump causing a little lurch, which then scoots me back in my seat ever so slightly, causing me to lift off the throttle just a little, causing the motor to slow just a little, causing me to then scoot forward a little, causing me to hit the throttle a little, causing the accl pump to shoot more fuel down the carb, causing the buggy to lurch forward a little.....and over and over.
Me and JimmyHoffa tried to put a little bit longer throttle arm on to maybe make the throttle throw longer, hopefully making the jerking less violent. It may have helped a little, but its still brutal to say the least.
I'm thinking of just going back to a stock style set up, or maybe getting rid of the 009...which is maybe causing hesitation in the lower end, exaggerating the issue.
Thoughts?
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-74 Standard - "CaliBug" 2084T, MS3X w/FI and Crank Fire
-76 Westy - "Gandalf"
-18 GTI SE

[Mike E.]

[dustymojave]

I agree with MikeE.

That is a problem I've NEVER had. But I buckle myself into my seat well too. My body can't move if I want to.

Your pedals may be a little far forward, as well.

Maybe slouching in the seat and reaching for the pedal.

I SERIOUSLY DOUBT the 009 is causing trouble. Although, if you have a square float bowl Solex carb, you could have some off-idle hesitation. That's a carburetor problem, not an ignition problem. Square bowl Solex carbs are not real good offroad or high performance carbs in the 1st place. The old Solex 30PICT-1 round bowl carb for 1966 and 67 Bugs and buses is fine if you put a piece of hose on the float bowl vent - or - plug the vent and drill the top of the float bowl to put in an external float bowl vent. You can buy a 30PICT-1 from EMPI with that already done. That style carb has been used on (required on) offroad racing 1600 buggy engines for over 40 years. So you can be confident it will work well. It takes an adapter to fit the dual port manifold.

If you have a Weber Progressive carb, it might be the tuning. there was a link posted on the offroad forums the other day about how to fix problems with those carbs.
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Richard
Offroading VW based cars since 1965
Tech Inspection 1963 - 2012 SCCA/SCORE/HDRA/MORE/MDR +
Retired from building Bajas, Fiberglass Buggies and Rails in the Mojave Desert. Also Sprints & Midgets, Dry Lakes, Road Race cars. All types New and Vintage
SoCalBajas Member
Kicked Cancer's A$$...1st and 2nd round...Fight ain't over yet.

[YDBD]

[kangaboy]

[oprn]

Ya! Had that problem on my Manx copy when I went to dual Webers. A couple fellows said “ Check the bourdon tube. Sounds like it doesn’t have any curve. Needs curve to work properly. “ well I didn’t have one in the throttle cable. Didn’t think it was needed. Oh yes it is and it needs some curve in it with a good anchor point at each end.

Another one of those little things that the factory did that really does have a reason! I no longer feel and look like a woodpecker at slow speeds!
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We had the stone age, the bronze age, the industrial age and now we are in the age of mass deception and mind control for corporate profit. (The mass media age)

[kangaboy]

[cbeck]

K.I.S.S. My pedal set has it's own return spring on the accelerator pedal. Used eye bolts to guide the hd cable. The hpmx springs never failed to return to idle. One would think heavier springs would wear something like throttle shaft bushings out faster. I did have solid trans mounts.
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My cut in half and rebuild thread
www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=647779

[oprn]

The stock system has a boudon tube. No need to add it as it was there already originally. There is pictures of my fix in my photo gallery but I don’t know how to move them here with just my phone.

I built a little bracket to act as an anchor point for the stock boudon tube to fit on my type 4 engine. With just the throttle cable going from the Beetle pan to the carb linkage and no boudon tube you will undeed get a woodpecker effect. That boudon tube HAS to be in there to take out chassis and engine mount flex or you will get a “tail driving the donkey” effect. That is what is happening. Nothing to do with springs!
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We had the stone age, the bronze age, the industrial age and now we are in the age of mass deception and mind control for corporate profit. (The mass media age)

[CHenige]

I am having the same issue. Here is how I set up the Bowden tube. Is there something wrong?

[Mike E.]

[oprn]

[oprn]

[oprn]

[Mike E.]

[jimmyhoffa]

I worked on this car today, and in the name of concise discussion I can promise the Morse Cable has a nice S-bend in it, so it's serving essentially like a giant 6 foot long Bowden tube, in that no motion of the engine with respect to the frame will cause the throttle to move. It's set up right.

I fixed the Morse cable mount on the engine side so it was very rigid and has no movement (it flexed a little) and he added another big ole' spring on the pedal from my collection of springs. He'll probably report back soon.
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1974 Chenowth 2RL #1244 Street Legal
My other car isn't ridiculous.

[kangaboy]

Welp, after I began the drive home, it was apparent that the condition wasn't resolved. I will admit with the modifications (rigid cable mount, and much more rigid throttle pedal spring) it was noticeable and appreciated on my end, but did not resolve my woodpecker issue. I'll continue to mess with it a bit, but I honestly see a stock cable set up in the near future...and then if that doesn't work, it's gonna be time to get some big brain thinking going.
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-74 Standard - "CaliBug" 2084T, MS3X w/FI and Crank Fire
-76 Westy - "Gandalf"
-18 GTI SE

[Mike E.]

[kangaboy]

It's all part of the fun, Mike E. If I wasn't working on this problem, there's always another one down the line of more/less significance. Plus it's by no means a daily driver, so problems here and there keep me engaged in the project.
Anyway, yeah, the only thing that was changed was the cable. I bought what I feel is a like-for-like part, with the only difference being that the new one actually moves. The old one finally gave in and locked up while I was on the first little cruse of the year (less than 5 miles). It was close to home so I was able to move it to half throttle by hand back at the carb and just feathered the clutch home.
With that said, it's likely the resistance in the previous cable was acting more as a functional bowden tube than the current one, preventing that tiny fluctuations cause by human use.
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-74 Standard - "CaliBug" 2084T, MS3X w/FI and Crank Fire
-76 Westy - "Gandalf"
-18 GTI SE

[Mike E.]