Rusty 65 SC restoration

[Kb65single]

Bottom frame member is welded in, the bottom 9 inches of the outer skin removed, and the entire door sandblasted. Welded the two pieces of my new middle frame section together (Boxed 1/2 x 1 x .065" and 2" wide 18guage sheet metal). Time to put all the pieces together.

Needed to cut out the original area that the middle frame member got welded to.

Middle frame member was a little thicker that the original (14mm vs 10mm) but still slid under the face of the original frame.

Closed those holes up and moved the middle section closer to the top of the door. Rust was the primary reason for doing that but getting the butt weld under boxed steel made me move it even further.

Trimmed the new bottom door skin at the butt weld side and at the bottom. Left a generous space at the butt weld. No chance of blow out with the frame member directly underneath.

Trial fit of things together. Holes in the middle of the bottom frame piece allow the capture nuts of the treasure chest lock attachment frame to sit on top of the frame. The two half-moon shapes also on that same area allow the church key and locking key access to the lock. Those holes will be drilled through the outer skin at a later date.

Made some end pieces to weld the middle frame section to the sides of the frame.

Seal the metal before final assembly.

Final assembly. Had to wait for delivery of some more 18" vice grip style clamps and as always you can never have enough clamps.

Started the plug weld marathon.

After cooling.

On to the butt weld. Doing that weld made it necessary to remove a section of the jig that held the door clamped in the shape that I desperately wanted to retain. Applying that much heat to that area could lead to distortion. Built another jig for the other side so the door would be sandwiched in between while welding. Belts and suspenders.
Jig for the inside of the door.

Butt welding slowly

Final grind. Next will be welding the piece that the lock bolts to and bending the skin metal around the bottom and sides.

[Huetti_1989]

looks good!!

-Christian
_________________
My 1957 semaphore Single Cab:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=605363&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
MY 1967 Sparsamba:
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=757182
My 1954 Deutsche Bundespost Barndoor:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=621802
My 1961 SO34 Flipseat Westfalia:
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=716285
My 1991 Westfalia California:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=650751

[Kb65single]

[Huetti_1989]

[Kb65single]

Wanted to respond to Huetti 1989's question about the dimple in the bottom of the bottom frame piece of the treasure chest door. First of all, yes Christian, I did understand your explanation and wish I could do as well in your language as you do in mine.

This is a picture of the area when I first started, not a whole lot of detail. I knew that dimple was there only because I bought the reproduction Gerson door. When I made the bottom frame piece it turned out pretty good (straight) and thought about putting the dimple in but didn't want to push my luck and screw that piece up (hammering, distortion). I also couldn't understand why it was there. Maybe to allow space for the strike plate that the treasure chest door lock engages but why on the top frame piece? Bottom line I saw no reason for it, so I omitted it, and the strike plate did not need clearance it that area.

While I was waiting for clamp and pneumatic tool deliveries and divine inspiration on the treasure chest door, there were other things to do. The same rust damage was present on the passenger side between the front wheel well and the bulkhead area at the b-pillar.

Cut that out and repaired it. Got to use the shrinker/stretcher tool again, love that tool.

Repair pieces.

Welded in.

Grind and smooth.

[Mid West Dubber]

Great work, loving the progress

[Kb65single]

Mid West Dubber thanks for the encouragement and thanks for the tip on the door skinning tool, it works great.


Back to the passenger side b-pillar area. Rust damage was similar to the driver's side. The bottom rear corner of the passenger door opening was rusted through, and the inside of the three-piece b-pillar needed replacement.

Cutting out the damaged part of the bulkhead panel gave me more room to work in; trimmed the rest of the area back to full thickness metal.

Used the Gerson repair panel to replace the bad metal. I found it easier to cut off the section of that panel that tries to replace the bottom corner of the door opening. There are just too many variables involved to make that whole piece fit at one time. Getting the bends that help hold the door rubber seal was easier to fab from scratch.

After I tacked in the inside of the b-pillar I cut out the outside section. Cutting off that made it much easier to clean up, clamp and weld.

Grind and smooth. Ready to make the end of the bulkhead repair panel.

[Kb65single]

After cutting the bad metal out of the lower outside section I started to stare at the matching Gerson replacement. Maybe the green paint blinded me from examining this piece closely when I bought it but now that I started to fit it in something didn't look right. As you can see from the two pictures the bottom 4 inches looks twisted/distorted. So, I sent pictures to Gerson, and they sent me another one. They did mention the fact that I initially bought it 9 months ago, but pictures don't lie, and they did send me a different one promptly.

While waiting for the new panel, the end of the bulkhead panel needed to be made. Repeated the same process that I used on the driver's side. Laid out an oversized piece so the bends/indentations could be hammered in.

Cut two pieces of sheet metal to put underneath that the oversized piece. Those two pieces will create the indentations. Cardboard patterns used.

Screwed the 3 pieces together and clamped it to a really solid surface and hammered in the bends with a piece of plate steel.

Fit that piece in. Outside indentation accepts the inside b-pillar flange. The next one, toward the middle, accepts the closing panel of the b-pillar that faces the front of the bus.

Salvaged the reinforcement ribs from the original panel.

Welded them in place.

Weld the finished panel in place.

[Kb65single]

Closed the bulkhead up with the final piece of the puzzle.

Made a small piece to fill in the area that the 3-piece Gerson b-pillar repair panel wouldn't reach.

Made some modifications to the panel that closes the front wheel well of the b-pillar.

Now that that panel fits, the outside of the 3-piece b-pillar can be fit. The new outside b-pillar section was a whole lot straighter/less distorted than the original one.

The original one was approximately 16 inches tall the replacement was 12.
Found a section from the driver's side and added the necessary length.

[chrisflstf]

Awesome patch panel work and fitment. Where do you buy patch panel sheet metal, same thickness as original?

[1970PAKombi]

I am loving this restore, I tip my cap to you with how thorough and the job that you're doing. Very, very, very nice work

[Kb65single]

[Kb65single]

[Larmo63]

Reading this thread and watching your masterful skill level makes me really appreciate my ‘61 SC.

I’m glad to have it as solid as it is and you will have so much pride in it by the time you finish, it’s going to be great.
_________________
Lawrence
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
‘61 Mango Green Single Cab
'62 Pearl White Ragtop sedan
'66 Ruby Red Cabriolet
'86 Porsche 911 Carrera

[Kb65single]

Larmo63

Thanks for the kind comments. Don't know about masterful but I am stubborn; really really stubborn.

Haven't posted anything lately, computers and I usually don't get along. I am going to catch up on the current status of this restoration. As Christian has said "Nearly Nothing is impossible if you just start it." Hopefully that includes computer work.


Next is to finish framing around the passenger treasure chest door. After rebuilding the treasure chest door, the dimensions of the final product did not change from the original. The exterior skin of the 3-part b-pillar section, the long rocker under the treasure chest door and the short rocker that closes in the c-pillar and the front of the rear wheel well are all involved. Gerson panels will be used for the replacement metal. On the driver's side I had to weld a 1/8" x 1/2" wide plate to the bottom edge of the inner rocker (KF 531) so that the 3 pieces would fit/ blend in around the treasure chest door. I was hoping this side would behave better, it did not.


First picture is the long rocker mated up to the original interior section of the c-pillar and clamped to the bottom flange of the inner rocker. The treasure chest door is in line with the top section of the rear quarter panel.

Next pictures are taken from the bottom pointing up. If you make the long rocker and door look good, the door is too far in. If you make the door and short rocker flush the long rocker is too far in.

Had the same problem at the b-pillar. Long rocker and door flush, b-pillar sticking out. B-pillar exterior skin and door flush the long rocker too far in.

Tried the 1/8" thick plate that I used on the other side, but it just wasn't enough. 3/16" thick made everything blend well with the rest of the bus. There were still fitment issues with each individual piece but there wasn't any strain (excessive clamping force) placed on things to fit. With that issue resolved the individual pieces could be fit. One thing I was concerned about was, will the fit of the dogleg be affected by this modification. My thinking was that I was so far down (close to the long rocker) that it should only need minor adjustment to the part of the dogleg that mates to the b-pillar.

[Kb65single]

Welded in the 3/16" plate to the bottom flange of the inner rocker and started fitting the exterior skin of the b-pillar. The width of the panel was good but depth of the channel that holds the treasure chest door seal didn't match the original.

Cut the panel at the black line and made a new piece that corrected the problem.

While fitting the inner 3-part b-pillar section I cut off the flange that helps support the exterior b-pillar skin, that in turn helps support the end of long rocker at the b-pillar. That flange was always getting in the way when I was trying to fit the 3 panels around the treasure chest door, so I cut it off. Adding it later is much easier and it actually functions and fits properly.

Welded in

Next was welding the closing panel of the b-pillar. (wheel well side)

Edge welded the 3 layers of the inner rocker, top hat/outrigger and closing panel.

Interior coating before welding

Screwed, clamped and welded the exterior skin of b-pillar.

Finished

[Kb65single]

Next was getting the short rocker/c-pillar/wheel well closing panel fit.

Short rocker looked like his picture on the treasure chest door end.

On the wheel well end it looked like this picture. Holding the b-pillar, long rocker and short rocker in line determines their position. (Has to look good from the road and level to the eye) Sorry about the focus.

I tried making a new longer end thinking I could just weld that on after cutting the old one off but that didn't work out. (To many planes to bend in) I didn't want to straighten and rebend the existing one because of my failure of trying to make the new one. I chose this way.

Cut off the end keeping a good length of the end.

Bent a piece of flat rectangular stock over a pipe, matching the original. Used the lines to line up the pipe.

Welded that on using some flat stock to support the pieces. Then cut to size.

Welded the original Gerson end back on. A lot of work for 3/8"

[Kb65single]

The original passenger c-pillar end was the only pillar left intact on the bus. Unfortunately, it was really rusty and if blasted, it would have pin holed. Cut the end off back to full thickness metal and in places that were easy to weld. Cutting the pillar above the inner rocker height lets you weld from both sides if needed.

Having modified and fit the short rocker, I could fit the curved part of the c-pillar repair area to the outer skin. Added the flanges that help support the outer skin and also the end of the long rocker at the c-pillar.

Then welded that in.

Front of the rear wheel well needed help. Got the wheel well panel fit to the bus and welded in.

With that section welded, the exterior shape is again guided by the short rocker. (Lots of trial fitting)

Added a flange to the wheel well repair. I used the cut off of the metal I bent to add length to the short rocker. With the short rocker clamped in place I tack welded the clamped flange in place, then welded it completely after the short rocker was removed.

Weld grind and smooth the wheel well closing panel. Had to adjust the flange above the new c-pillar repair. New and old flanges didn't blend smoothy.

Coat the areas that will be hidden before welding.

Final fit before welding the short rocker in. Used a 1/2" x 1/2" bar to help hold things straight. The gas tank opening helps with the rigidity compared to the driver's side. Love those 18" clamps!

On to the long rocker below the treasure chest door and maybe to the shoe store

[karl h]

very nice work!
_________________
61 panel: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=465022
68 ghia vert
arctic alice (63 on irs): http://cal-look.no/lounge/index.php/topic,27456.0.html
86 Caravelle
04 new beetle vert

[Kb65single]

karl h

thanks! We need to see some more on your bus it's been a while.


Painted the top hats where I won't be able to get to after welding the jack points in. Had to cut and adjust the height of one of the "wings" of the c-pillar jack point. This was a repeat of the same thing I did on the driver's side. With that correction the jack point won't look crooked from the road.

Used the same method of getting the long rocker in as I did on the other driver's side. The 2 part long rocker system seemed like asking for rust to reappear. Made ribs at the I-beam locations. Screwed the ribs on temporarily so I could size them, making sure the long rocker was straight.

Added a flange to the ribs that would plug weld to the outside skin of the long rocker. Attached the flanges to the ribs by tack welding a tab to the flange first. There was enough room between the inner and long rocker for the Mig gun to tack the flange tab to the rib. Unscrew that and finish welding and grinding on the table.

Welded in the ribs from the back side of the inner rocker and started to paint/rust proof things while it was easy to get to.

Next the treasure chest floor needed to fit. The front flange at the bulkhead and the side flange at the b-pillar needed adjustment. (cut and reweld)

The rear flange where the wheel well repair was done also needed shorting. (Cut and reweld)

The edge of the floor along the long rocker opening did not have the proper bend. The original shape of that edge is a sharp 90 degree bend. This is what I had.

This is what I needed.

Getting a long bend like that straight, needed a lot of support. Used a 1/8" thick flat bar and a piece of angle iron to help support it. Those pieces were screwed to the edge of the treasure chest floor and gradually bent over with a hammer. The holes that would be drilled in the floor would be used to plug weld the floor to the mating flange of the long rocker.

Cut the mating surface of the long rocker flange back on the black line.

After fitting the treasure chest floor I could mark and drill the holes in the correct spots. Drilled the holes in the bar with a drill press. Used that as a guide for the floor metal and angle iron.

Tried in the floor and long rocker after the bend and made sure the rubber seal fit.

Last part of the treasure chest floor fitment was where the load bed main frame support passes through the treasure chest floor. The original floor has stampings that are rounded. Gerson repair panel stamping edges are sharper and pointy. Needed to adjust those so they blended better.

Comparing the two.

Marked the areas that needed to be rounded off.

Cut and reweld.

Will grind and smooth during the long weld joining the old and new floor sections. Next is welding all the fitted parts to the bus!