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Rusty 65 SC restoration
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Kb65single
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 11, 2021 4:28 am    Post subject: Re: Rusty 65 SC restoration Reply with quote

Finishing up some of the spots I started.

Prepping the flange of the triangular piece that I made before.
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Doing the same thing to the opposing surface
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Welding in place. Left the relief cuts unfinished on the outside because I didn't know if I needed access for the panel that finishes the wheel well.
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Grinding and smoothing. Better than the rust hole.
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Fabricate the patch for the rust hole on the d-pillar
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Prepping behind
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Welding in place
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Grind and smooth
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Huetti_1989
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 11, 2021 12:12 pm    Post subject: Re: Rusty 65 SC restoration Reply with quote

Clean sandblasted metal looks so damn nice!

-Christian
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Kb65single
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 11, 2021 2:32 pm    Post subject: Re: Rusty 65 SC restoration Reply with quote

Huetti_1989 wrote:
Clean sandblasted metal looks so damn nice!

-Christian

Hello Christian thanks for your encouragement. I've read all 39 pages of your SC restoration, your craftsmanship and pursuit of perfection ranks among the top. Thanks for the Knipex 90 55 280 tool introduction it beats tin snips hands down. It cuts sheet metal with virtually no distortion I love it. Your view that you have as you are working is priceless.
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Kb65single
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 11, 2021 4:39 pm    Post subject: Re: Rusty 65 SC restoration Reply with quote

On to more repairs in the battery tray/rear corner area.
Had to repair rust in this area.

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Rust had separated the top and bottom panels
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After the repairs were made it was sealed. Notice the rusty c-channel that holds the engine compartment seal, more on that later.
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Tried to weld some holes shut but the welder just blew holes in the thin metal
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Cut the section out
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Made a full thickness repair. The panel flange tool from Eastwood was used to create the correct profile.
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Fully welded
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Almost ready for the battery tray
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Can't put a battery tray in without the d-pillar
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Welding the J-channel that holds the rubber seal is tricky. Had to use some copper to back the weld up.
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Kb65single
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 12, 2021 3:50 am    Post subject: Re: Rusty 65 SC restoration Reply with quote

One last area to cut out and replace and I can finally start to fit and weld the battery tray. My first Gerson panel ! I was impressed by the thickness of the metal and the correct shape in areas that required it. I had to bend the flange at a sharper angle in the rear outside corner to make it fit better. I had to cut and reweld that flange in a few places but overall it fit well.
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Finally green metal
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Kb65single
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 14, 2021 6:12 am    Post subject: Re: Rusty 65 SC restoration Reply with quote

Welding the D-pillar support happens first and is easier when the battery tray is out. The location of the support gets determined by the tray ( tack in, then remove tray and weld)
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The flange of the tray is welded to the inside of the d-pillar(see holes for plug welds). The d-pillar support is welded an smoothed.
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Now that the battery tray is in, I had to make the finishing wheel well and splash panels. The wheel well panel has a slight curve so I had to cut some relief in the flanges on both sides. The engine side of that panels flange is straight so you can put it in the metal brake and bend 90deg. The other side narrows so I used vice grips and hammer and dolly. Using accurate cardboard templates to get the location of that bend is critical.
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Labeling my panel helps me, It goes in so many times and don't want to hammer on the wrong side.
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Got that panel roughed in but can't weld it in because the splash panel goes in first. Splash panel is a lot easier to make(no compound curves, all straight bends). It's nice to have a gently used pattern.
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The little flanges added a lot of stiffness to that panel. (crafty Germans)
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Splash panel gets welded in behind the battery tray flange
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Not welding the out side of the triangular piece (in front of the louvers) gave me access to the outer edge of battery tray, splash panel and eventually the wheel well section.
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Always good to have weld penetration
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Getting closer
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Culito
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 14, 2021 7:17 am    Post subject: Re: Rusty 65 SC restoration Reply with quote

Very nice!
Plug welds are always something I've struggled with. It seems like the hole fills up too fast to let the weld pool really penetrate the other piece.
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Kb65single
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 14, 2021 9:13 am    Post subject: Re: Rusty 65 SC restoration Reply with quote

Culito wrote:
Very nice!
Plug welds are always something I've struggled with. It seems like the hole fills up too fast to let the weld pool really penetrate the other piece.

I drill a 3/16 hole and turn up the heat. If you have to "dial in" your welder like I had to do with my first my Sears Craftman 25 years ago, dial it in at a gauge or two thicker than you are welding. I am now at a point in my life to be able to buy a really nice welder, if I'm plug welding 20 gauge metal I just set it to 18 or 16 gauge and like magic it sizzles. Who says money can't buy happiness.
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ryans65
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 14, 2021 1:52 pm    Post subject: Re: Rusty 65 SC restoration Reply with quote

Great work! Looking forward to more updates.

Outer banks is one of my favorite places on the planet also.
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Kb65single
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 15, 2021 3:21 am    Post subject: Re: Rusty 65 SC restoration Reply with quote

ryans65 wrote:
Great work! Looking forward to more updates.

Outer banks is one of my favorite places on the planet also.


Thanks
I just finished reading your build thread 2 days ago. You put an enormous amount of work into your SC and it is turning out fantastic . Love the color. When you get it on the road the OBX would be a nice destination for the bus I would like to see it in person. Did you marry the girl that helped strip the bondo off the long panel, she sounds like a keeper. My wife will pump the brake pedal for me when I do a brake job but getting dirty like that is a rare quality. Smile
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Kb65single
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 15, 2021 4:18 am    Post subject: Re: Rusty 65 SC restoration Reply with quote

Final fitting of the wheel well panel. Welded the relief cuts shut on the flanges. This panel goes on the outside of the battery tray flange.
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Punch holes and paint
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Tacking in place. Had to rig up a way to hold the copper backing while I welded from the other side.(One man operation)
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full weld
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Finally welding the relief cuts on the triangle piece
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No where to clamp so made a brace from the other side. That is the original color in the engine compartment, is that ivory (L62)???
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Grind and smooth. One more tiny piece that was bugging me.
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A little paint to seal until ?
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Kb65single
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 16, 2021 4:40 am    Post subject: Re: Rusty 65 SC restoration Reply with quote

Had to close off the top of the hinge carrier to finish this corner. Needed to replace one of the capture nuts for the rear gate. Drilled the spot welds out on one side of the cage, slid in the new nut and welded it back into position. The top spot weld can be removed from the inside but the bottom spot was easier to get to from the outside. Had to measure carefully to locate the spot.
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Shiny new nut. Think I found them at Wolfsburg West.
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Also had to replace the capture nut for the engine lid hinge. Tried the Glideking method but it didn't work for me. Decided to round a nut off and weld it to a flat plate. The nut has to fit inside of the plate not on top. That mechanism can only be a certain thickness in order for it to slide inside the cage.
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Trying it with the hinge before final grind
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The old and new
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Did the same thing as the rear gate , drilled the spot welds free at one side of the cage slid in the new and welded it back. Those spot welds are easy to remove from the top.

Capped off the top with 18 gauge metal. You can see the smoothed weld area that was the bottom spot weld of the cage for the capture nut.
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Sorry its not your eyes
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Better focus
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Finally battery tray/rear corner done Smile On to the next adventure.
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chrisflstf
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 16, 2021 7:36 am    Post subject: Re: Rusty 65 SC restoration Reply with quote

Your weldng is always spot on. What do you use to grind down the welds?
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glideking
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 16, 2021 9:24 am    Post subject: Re: Rusty 65 SC restoration Reply with quote

Read your thread today. Enjoying your progress.
Kurt
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Kb65single
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 16, 2021 11:14 am    Post subject: Re: Rusty 65 SC restoration Reply with quote

chrisflstf wrote:
Your weldng is always spot on. What do you use to grind down the welds?

Trick photography? Really I start out with a 1/16" wide 3" cut off wheel that mows down the bulk of the weld quickly. If the area permits crisscross the area, that will show you the highs and lows of the previous directional grind. When I think I'm close I switch to an angle grinder at an angle close to parallel, that usually gets more of the highs down (and again switch directions). Final grind would be a 50 grit thin fiber disk and switch directions. I think the lighting is the most important. The light and its reflection on the metal tells you where more or less sanding is needed.
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pyrOman
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 16, 2021 11:45 am    Post subject: Re: Rusty 65 SC restoration Reply with quote

Your attention to detail is just off the charts! Shocked

Thanks for documenting it, great ideas to pick up on! Cool
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Kb65single
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 16, 2021 12:45 pm    Post subject: Re: Rusty 65 SC restoration Reply with quote

glideking wrote:
Read your thread today. Enjoying your progress.
Kurt

If you've read mine you definitely know that I've read yours. I'm sure you enjoyed seeing my claw hammer, I understand body hammers but the claw hammer is so much more versatile. I couldn't put a free sign on my Craftsman welder it was still working and someone else is breathing new life in to it. Happy birthday to funky truck may he live a long productive life.
Ken
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Kb65single
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 16, 2021 3:50 pm    Post subject: Re: Rusty 65 SC restoration Reply with quote

pyrOman wrote:
Your attention to detail is just off the charts! Shocked

Thanks for documenting it, great ideas to pick up on! Cool


Thanks for the compliment. I have received a lot beneficial information on this site hopefully someone can use something of mine. It takes a village.
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Kb65single
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 17, 2021 2:49 pm    Post subject: Re: Rusty 65 SC restoration Reply with quote

Decided to tackle the driver side treasure chest hinge carrier next. It was in a whole lot worse shape than the passenger side. I bought the Gerson panel to replace it. Fortunately they make a dual treasure chest version, mirror image to the more common passenger side. I'll start with a few before pictures.
B-pillar side.
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C-pillar side
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Top side. started to separate that panel from the top hats supporting the load bed. My thinking was that if I could save the ends of the top hats it would give me a dimensionally reliable place to weld the replacement panel to.
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Different view. Following the rust to the second gate hinge, unfortunately the replacement Gerson panel doesn't go back that far. Didn't figure on that.
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Stretching it out for a better view
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That portion of the hinge carrier is out
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This is what the back of the first gate hinge looked like. No wonder I couldn't break those screws loose.
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View of the middle gate hinge
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Vertical lines on the short panel was the location of the center of the hinge screws. Always good to save reference points.
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Will clean up those top hat ends to attach the replacement panel
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The inside and outside of the first top hat next to the b-pillar
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The b-pillar needed so much work that I decided to cut the top hat back so it would be easier to work on.
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Decided to cut the top hat just short of the main bed beam
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What a mess. time to clean up the garage.
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Kb65single
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 18, 2021 5:09 am    Post subject: Re: Rusty 65 SC restoration Reply with quote

Cleaning the ends of the top hat. Three spot welds on each flange and a continuous weld across the top. Notice the top hat closest to the b-pillar is cut.
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Top of the top hat needed rust repair.
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Slid a long piece of angle iron through the top hat to support my piece before welding.
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Just like new.
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Started to clean up the b-pillar after removing the top hat section.
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Trying to figure out the layers of metal. There seems to be a piece of metal behind that rusted mess.
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Go back to solid metal and work my way around
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The rust went around the inside corner so I had to trim that flange back. Found some spot welds (little black circles) that seemed to be involved in the section I was trying to remove.
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drilled those spot welds out and I found what I was looking for.
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There is a plate that ties all the separate pieces of the b-pillar together. You are looking at the back side of the plate.
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Here is the profile of the plate. A small 90Deg. bend on one side only, probably for strength? The bend is toward the outside of the bus. 16 gauge metal.
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Filling the hole that I just made is next.
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