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Bostig - My RG11 build
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dasilva
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 19, 2021 1:39 pm    Post subject: Bostig - My RG11 build Reply with quote

I purchased a RG11 kit. I drive a 1989 Westfalia, 2WD, automatic.

I'm trying to do the Tachometer Modification. I'm following the instructions in the manual to the best of my ability.

1) I've got the tachometer out of the instrument cluster - but I think the needle for the gauge is preventing me from accessing the circuit board. Has anybody else run into this issue?

2) A mystery gold bracket fell out of somewhere(???) when the tachometer was removed. I'm unsure how it re-attaches into the assembly. If anyone could provide some insight or direction it would be greatly appreciated.


Regards
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Bills85Westy
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 19, 2021 1:59 pm    Post subject: Re: Bostig - My RG11 build Reply with quote

Iím not sure what is required of the mod, but Iíve used a dinner fork under the needle to remove it. It will take quite a bit of force. This was at the recommendation of Christopher at T3 Technique in the plasma gauge upgrade.

I just looked at a spare tach on the shelf and donít believe the mystery bracket is part of your tach assembly.

Good luck!
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Brownj
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 19, 2021 7:38 pm    Post subject: Re: Bostig - My RG11 build Reply with quote

You don't need to remove the needle at all. When you first remove the instrument cluster the circuit board to be modified is visible (circled in red below). It looks like you've already removed it?

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I'm not sure what the bracket is for.
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dasilva
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 22, 2021 9:40 am    Post subject: Re: Bostig - My RG11 build Reply with quote

Thanks for the replies. The tachometer is in a plastic case. I managed to slide out, remove and get to the circuit board behind.
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dasilva
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 29, 2021 11:46 am    Post subject: Re: Bostig - My RG11 build Reply with quote

Bostig RG11.

I'm still fumbling with the tachometer modification. I've removed the tachometer. I've identified the resistor's to remove.

1) In the manual, the new resistor to be soldered is brown(ish) with yellow/red/orange stripe, and positioned at 12 o'clock. Image attached.

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2)The only resistor I could find was with the MIL. It's blue, and positioned at 9 o'clock. (rotation, oops) Image attached. Is this the correct resistor?

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3) With the MIL Installation instructions, I see no mention of a resistor

Can anyone comment if this resistor is part of the MIL set-up?

Thanks
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dasilva
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 09, 2021 10:27 am    Post subject: Re: Bostig - My RG11 build Reply with quote

I fumbled upon tach answers. I'm posting answers to my own tach questions (bad form?).

1) The blue resistor is the proper resistor to solder in.

2) The 'mystery' brass piece sits behind the blue paper. Pictures attached from :

Bentley manual
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and my re-install.
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3) I would not recommend de-soldering/re-soldering. I broke the needle off my tach. Upon further samba research, it looks like some people use an empty peanut can or glass to ensure the needle is not snapped when removing old solder. Bostig sells a tachometer signal converter (http://www.bostig.com/tachometer-signal-converter/), which might be a better route to pursue.
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jimf909
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 09, 2021 7:27 pm    Post subject: Re: Bostig - My RG11 build Reply with quote

dasilva wrote:
I fumbled upon tach answers. I'm posting answers to my own tach questions (bad form?).


Good form. FWIW, my bostig installer used the signal converter.
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Current: 1990 Westy Camper - Bostig RG4, 2wd, manual trans w/Peloquin, NAHT high-top, Flash Silver, seam rust, bondo, etc., etc.

Past: 1985 Westy Camper - 1.9 wbx, 2wd, manual trans, Merian Brown, (sold after 17 years to Northwesty who converted it to a Syncro).
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dasilva
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 11, 2021 12:21 pm    Post subject: Re: Bostig - My RG11 build Reply with quote

Yesterday, I lifted my engine/transmission back into the van.

Today, I'm working on securing the 3rd set of cradle to frame bolts secured (Step 26 on Page 28 of the Bostig Factory Manual RG11).

It's a tight fit. The bolts are in, but to torque them down is difficult. I can get a 13mm through the access hole. I can get a 13mm on the locknut. But I'm failing at holding while torqueing.

How have others done this? I'm working by myself today. Should I be using an impact gun?

Can anyone comment on what value this is to be torqued to? I'm guessing 35-40 ft/lbs (like the 4 other cradle to frame bolts).

Any help is appreciated.


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jimf909
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 11, 2021 12:45 pm    Post subject: Re: Bostig - My RG11 build Reply with quote

Your guess on torque values makes perfect sense. These bolts aren't a critical engine assembly that will go through hundreds of heat/cool cycles so gut und tight will work.

I'm sure you've read this over and over. You're not missing anything, torque values are stated clearly for four of the mounting bolts but not the final two.
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Abscate wrote:

Do not get killed, do not kill others.


Current: 1990 Westy Camper - Bostig RG4, 2wd, manual trans w/Peloquin, NAHT high-top, Flash Silver, seam rust, bondo, etc., etc.

Past: 1985 Westy Camper - 1.9 wbx, 2wd, manual trans, Merian Brown, (sold after 17 years to Northwesty who converted it to a Syncro).
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dasilva
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 18, 2021 2:04 pm    Post subject: Re: Bostig - My RG11 build Reply with quote

I'm trying to install the speed sensor for my 1989 Automatic Westfalia. Lots of parts!

I've watched to Bostig video.

Does anyone have tips or tricks on lining up the sensor to the speed sensor rings? I've bent the speed sensor bracket. When I go to tighten the 15mm bolt and the pair of 10mm bolts, everything wants to move.

Has anyone accomplished this task by themselves?
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dasilva
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 24, 2021 4:45 pm    Post subject: Re: Bostig - My RG11 build Reply with quote

I believe what I am pointing to is the cam cover breather

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that is supposed to be connected to the airbox with the 16'' hose.

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If anyone could confirm this, it would be greatly appreciated!

Also, are people using clamps to hold onto the cam breather? The hose keeps on slipping off what I believe is the cam cover breather connection.......
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DanHoug
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 24, 2021 5:01 pm    Post subject: Re: Bostig - My RG11 build Reply with quote

dunno about the Bostig in particular but in general the breather is attached to the air cleaner INSIDE the filter box so that if it DOES suck back under negative crankcase pressure, it is filtered air. some vent crankcase pressure to the outside... it keeps the airbox cleaner but at the expense of increased emissions, oil smell, and the possibility of reflux of unfiltered air into the engine. don't do it.

what you need to determine is if the Focus engine uses a PVC valve in that line.
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MsTaboo
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 24, 2021 5:17 pm    Post subject: Re: Bostig - My RG11 build Reply with quote

Yes, that's the valve cover breather port, line goes directly to the port on the air filter box. Yes, use clamps on both ends.
There should be a small square piece of foam inside the airbox just inside the port. This helps soak up stray oil.
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Disregard the extra bit of grey plastic and tubing on mine in these pictures, I was experimenting with getting the evaporation system working.
Just plug it straight from the valve cover to the airbox.

The PCV valve is on the exhaust side under the header.
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dasilva
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 26, 2021 2:51 pm    Post subject: Re: Bostig - My RG11 build Reply with quote

I'm working on SK-W.

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On Bostig's harness, the leg that has the injector harness has four (4) connections:

1) Injector Harness Connector
2) Alternator Connect0r
3) One that plugs into the engine, near the cam cover
4) ????


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Does anyone have insight of this final connectors home?
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MsTaboo
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 26, 2021 5:59 pm    Post subject: Re: Bostig - My RG11 build Reply with quote

Unused. Zip tie out of the way.
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-Syncro, not just a sticker-

The information age has morphed into the age of disinformation and willful ignorance. Agnotology!
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dasilva
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 08, 2021 12:36 pm    Post subject: Re: Bostig - My RG11 build Reply with quote

Thanks for the help, Ms. Taboo.

I'm working on hooking up the coolant lines. My van is automatic and has the A/T cooler.

Does anyone know where Jim's scope of supply ends around the cooler?
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My original lines around the A/T cooler seem a bit messy - and I'm trying to ensure I'm not going to forget a hose

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that is required???

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Pictures, if anyone has any, would be helpful.

Regards,
Carl
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kourt Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 08, 2021 3:25 pm    Post subject: Re: Bostig - My RG11 build Reply with quote

Tell us--do you have a rear under-seat heater? If not, configure your hoses like a manual transmission. If you have a rear heater, it's more complex.

kourt
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dasilva
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 09, 2021 6:18 am    Post subject: Re: Bostig - My RG11 build Reply with quote

If by, 'rear under-seat heater,' you mean rear heater core - I do have one of those!

When you say it gets more complex, can you provide details?

Thanks!!
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dasilva
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 03, 2021 4:09 pm    Post subject: Re: Bostig - My RG11 build Reply with quote

I'm mounting the overflow bottle. Trying. It feels like juggling.

Especially attaching the bottle to the bracket before marking the points to be drilled with a sharpie.

The whole bracket moves. As long as I mark the bottom, do I really need to mark the top points on the bracket?

Any insight from bostig installers (bostigeers?) would be appreciated.

Thanks!
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Microbusdeluxe
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 03, 2021 5:01 pm    Post subject: Re: Bostig - My RG11 build Reply with quote

Get one position marked, drill it and install a bolt. Then it's a lot easier to mark & drill the other two.
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