Bostig - My RG11 build

[dasilva]

Microbusdeluxe. Thanks for the tip.

I felt tight for space when trying to push in the overflow bottle. I unbuckled the breather hose and the Rubber intake elbow from the Airbox. Attaching the cam breather hose was a struggle the first time. And perhaps a bigger struggle this time.

On page 36 (SK-I Partlist) Bostig includes a brass nipple.

When I originally connected the breather hose to the Airbox I tried to use the brass nipple. As the brass nipple threaded into the Airbox, it began to crack the plastic. At the time, I rationalized that the existing protrusion was probably 'nipple enough.' Especially because I could snug the hose clamp. First go-round, I did not use the brass nipple.

Now that I'm revisiting the breather hose - I'm wondering if I could get feedback from others.

1) Does anyone use the brass nipple?
2) Does anyone have a picture of an airbox that came with a nipple and did not use the Bostig supplied brass nipple?
3) Is the brass nipple properly sized if it is cracking the existing 'nipple' on my airbox?
4) If there is a crack in the nipple, even if I can snug the hose over it - is it anything to be concerned about?

[dasilva]

With the help of a hacksaw, stepdrill and heat - I got the brass nipple installed.

[dasilva]

I'm working on connecting the coolant hoses for my Bostig Installation. Concurrently, I am replacing the old 'rigid,' pipes with new stainless steel pipes

I think I cut hose 22288 incorrectly:

I think it's incorrectly cut because:
1) I am having great difficulty getting the clips around the new 'MAIN,' stainless steel pipes. The positioning of the stainless steel pipes suggests I left too much hose 22288 around the side of the fill tower that has the 1/8'' NPT to overflow hose barb. The hose is currently folding over itself.
2) I can still see the 'raw' material of the opposite side of the fill tower. The opposite side has the coolant level sensor. Is the side where cooled coolant is returning to the Zetec Engine

I know I can shorten hose section (1). But I think it would be incorrect to leave hose section (2) short.

Does anybody know if I need to buy a whole new 22288 hose section? Or does Gates offer a 'section,' of this hose? Ideally the section that I cut too short.

Input and experience (and a hose #, if possible) would be appreciated!

[Microbusdeluxe]

Buy a new hose. Use the too short one as a template and cut the new one 3/4" longer.
_________________
'69 Squareback RIP
'65 21 window deluxe sold before the price spike, damn it.
'70 rhd bay now a taxi in South Sudan
'81 Westy sold
'89 hightop Westy Joker syncro 16" now with Bostig!

[dasilva]

Thanks for the response, Microbusdeluxe.

[yellowjacket]

I did the same thing on my install and ended up buying another hose.

I also didn't like clamping a 1 1/2" I.D. hose on a 1 1/4" O.D. outlet. After talking with several neighbors (all mechanics) one of them showed me a heater hose reducer. Anyway, after some research found Gates makes hose reducers. Local NAPA had them in stock, part #900, NAPA rebranded Gates product. WD-40 got everything together, borrowed a radiator pressure tester and no more leaks. Also just finished a 2000+ mile trip and no leaks anywhere.
_________________
86 Syncro Westy - Bostig RG11
71 Squareback

[dasilva]

Thanks for the tip yellowjacket. I'll look into the hose reducers.

As per Installation step 1a on page 64, I'm trying to view the hose cutting tutorial video on the bositg site. This is the screen I see:

On the bostig website, beside the hyperling for the video, it says: for prep only, routing information is in the factory manual for G21+ groups/retail

Questions!
1) Is there any important prep information in the video that I should be aware of? Right now, my only guide is to ensure the new hoses are comfortably extending from A to B.
2) I think RG11 is after G21+. Can anyone confirm?
3) I drive a 1989, 2WD, Automatic. In the hose holder (?) on top of the transmission, are the original send and return lines from the A/T cooler supposed to 'flop' to the passenger side?

Any help appreciated.

Thanks,
Carl

[dasilva]

I do not believe the AT cooler has a true inlet and true outlet. I can find no information to contradict this. When I look at the Bostig cooling hookup diagram ( page 68 ), the AT cooler is teed into the cooler but there is no side specific distinction made. Route each side most efficiently??

I removed the piping below. I don't think the intent is to use any of this 'original,' piping as the Bostig supplied piping is all 3/4''.

If any of this is incorrect, please holler!

[Microbusdeluxe]

Can't help you on any of the automatic trans stuff. Yes group RG 11 is many years after G21+ or any other G group. I also wouldn't sweat the hoses other than ensuring they are getting from point A to point B without being under too much tension or rubbing against anything. If the "removed piping" in the photo is part of the VW coolant system, it is tossed. However, throughout this entire procedure keep all the stuff you removed from both the van and the Ford engine until you are up and running, then dump it for good.
_________________
'69 Squareback RIP
'65 21 window deluxe sold before the price spike, damn it.
'70 rhd bay now a taxi in South Sudan
'81 Westy sold
'89 hightop Westy Joker syncro 16" now with Bostig!

[dasilva]

** Future Bostig installers with an Automatic Transmission - I would recommend making necessary coolant hose length adjustments when the engine and transmission are not in the engine bay. The insulation on the firewall gives off lots of dust.**

I embarked on my Bostig adventure when my engine died. Coolant was found in the engine oil, and engine oil was found in the coolant.

I'm adjusting hose length to/from the Automatic Transmission (AT) cooler. This is the applicable drawing from Bentley.

Yesterday I removed the W3 coolant line.

I placed a plastic bag over the exposed AT cooler nozzle. Because of the dust from the insulation on the firewall - I was hoping I could just trim back the other coolant hose (W4) and slip the dorman tee into the existing line.

Surprise! The line has a snotty green residue in the bottom.

The main coolant lines (to/from the radiatior) have a chalky residue. But this is the first I've seen of this snotty residue. And this is the heaviest location. Any guesses what this material is? Could it be rinsed out by water? If not water, is there a better rinsing/scouring agent? I've heard of using Downy liquid detergent.

I also think the A/T cooler could be fouled. I loathe to ask - do I need to start digging into the Transmission?? I hoped (assumed, prayed) that the ATF and the Coolant were physically separated in the A/T cooler. When I checked the Transmission dipstick - the fluid appeared quite nice and pink.

Any replies appreciated. I'll have a think before moving any further. Maybe the best of a bad situation is replacing the A/T cooler before the system is charged with coolant.

(Thanks for the reply Microbusdeluxe)

[dasilva]

Is there a trick for getting the check valve on the brake booster line re-installed?

I'm doing a Bostig conversion on my 1989 Westfalia. Getting the valve re-installed seems...tricky! Too much heat and the plastic on the check valve body melts. Not enough heat and the line isn't widening enough the accept the valve.

The Bostig supplied nipple seems wider than the nylon line. I'm a little worried.

Right now, I placed the valve in the freezer. Will try to warm the line tomorrow by placing under the escaping steam from the kettle.

Does anyone else have other tips I am unaware of? WD-40?? Dishwasher soap??

Any help appreciated.

[campism]

I'd use a tapered alignment punch in the tubing. Maybe aim a heat gun or blow dryer on the tubing to soften it for the expansion.

_________________
'87 Westy in Wolfram Grey Metallic

[dasilva]

Whoa. Those look cool. And expensive.

[TopBud]

You are going to love the Bostig conversion. I love mine. I had issues installing it, but now it is amazing and reliable
_________________
86 bostig SYNCRO
66 convertible Karmann Ghia

[dasilva]

I' m working on installing the Power Steering System. I didn't realize at the time of purchase - but the 'port(?)' at the bottom of the pump looks.....compromised.

It looks like a screw was driven in - and would lead to all the PS fluid leaking out! Is this a part I can source independently, or will I need a whole new PS pump? Any input would be appreciated.

Thanks!

[dasilva]

I'm working on SK-E. Does anyone bother with the shim that is supposed to be slipped between the clamp and the muffler inlet? Following other bostig installations, I think some might skip this?

What is the intent of this shim? To cut down on noise and vibration?

Can anyone volunteer tips for getting the shim to fit tighter?

[dobryan]

Is there a diagram in the instructions or a pic? That does not look right at all. Bostig is usually very well done so something is up.

Did you submit a help request (whatever Bostig calls it)?
_________________
Dave O
'87 Westy w/ 2002 Subaru EJ25 and Peloquin TBD

"To travel hopefully is a better thing than to arrive." Robert Louis Stevenson

MD>Canada>AK>WA>OR>CA>AZ>UT>WY>SD
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https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=746794

[dasilva]

I have yet to submit a ticket to Bostig. Thought I would reach out to the Bostig community on the Samba first!

There are instructions in the Bostig literature, but the minutia of how to bend the shim is not included.....

[dobryan]

[dasilva]

Hi dobryan,
Wording of the instructions is:

Bend the exhaust clamp shim into a similar rounded shape that roughly matches the bend of the clamp.

Slip the shim between the clamp and the muffler inlet on the bottom side of the clamp, opposite the pinch bolt.