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dunc2027 Samba Member
Joined: May 31, 2021 Posts: 9
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Posted: Mon Jun 21, 2021 4:23 am Post subject: Inspecting engine? |
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1974 super convertible. My first car with carb and dizzy, so it's all new to me, except my two-decade subscription to Hot Rod magazine, lol.
I pulled the motor to replace the oil cooler seals because it's pouring oil. While I've got it out I might as well take care of other things, so I loaded up on gaskets and a clutch and other crap from the local VW shop. But now I'm dealing with mission creep. I'm doing all this in a parking garage, by the way, so I can't have the motor out indefinitely.
Where should I draw the line for work here?? It ran and drove when I bought it, and I fixed some electrical and welded in some floorpans. It was always low on power, but I drive it pretty hard anyway for a few weeks (trip to honolulu is over 30min, speed limit is up to 55 and hilly, so one way has 15 or so minute stretches of 3/4 throttle).
I submitted a post just a minute ago about the terrible as-found lash. I couldn't get even my smallest feeler under three of the exhaust valves. Do I need to open the heads and look at anything?
I am definitely replacing the oil cooler seals, dizzy oring, and gaskets for the alternator stand and fuel pump. I will check and re-shim the fan when reinstalling. What other things should I mess with? I have new pushrod tubes and gaskets, but I don't actually know if they're leaking, as everything is filthy.
How much work do ya'll car people do as "preventative" vs "if it ain't broke don't fix it"? The clutch doesn't slip, although it bites wiredly high and small, but it's my first VW, so what do I know. Should I replace it anyway or not jack with it? I also bought a main seal, and front and rear seals for the transmission. (The VW shop is only open Saturdays, so I load up every time and return what I don't need.)
I note that tbe bottom of everything is filthy, but the trans nose is also wet. I don't know if that's gear oil or brake fluid running down the center channel, as the master cylinder leaks bad. No brakes in the rear at all, woooo. (I have a bew master as well. It's on my list. Which is long, as you tell.)
Part of this is prepping to ship it to the mainland. A few years away, sure, but every company I've looked up said NO LEAKS with inspections before loading, so I'm being proactive.
Oh, I also planned ahead for future motor pulls, since I don't have a giant jack or space to store a pile of blocks. I drilled out all the welds today and removed the rear apron. Hopefully the next time I pull the motor I can have it out in less than an hour. 😃
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Cusser Samba Member
Joined: October 02, 2006 Posts: 31268 Location: Hot Arizona
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boxer74 Samba Member
Joined: July 03, 2011 Posts: 702 Location: Ontario, Canada
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Posted: Mon Jun 21, 2021 9:59 am Post subject: Re: Inspecting engine? |
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Did you ever check compression?
A few recommendations:
- Clean the exterior of the engine really well (after inspecting source of any leaks)
- Check crank endplay
- New main seal
- Retorque heads (apply permatex aviation under washers if any leaks)
- Check torque on main case nuts. Tighten if needed.
- Make sure all required tin is there (remove and sandblast/paint if you want).
- New pushrod tubes requires removing heads, but you're nearly there so not a bad idea if any are leaking or beat up
[/list] _________________ 74 Super
84 Westy |
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dunc2027 Samba Member
Joined: May 31, 2021 Posts: 9
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Posted: Mon Jun 21, 2021 11:52 am Post subject: Re: Inspecting engine? |
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I've cleaned about half so far. Certainly looks like the oil cooler is the culprit. That will be my main task.
How often to head studs break/twist off? The rust is scawy.... but the rusty exhaust came off fine. Debating whether I should leave it all be for now, or fully crack it open. I'll have to look up the main seal procedure, but it should be in my book. The clutch is out already. Some blue areas, but I think it still has life. Then again what do I know. |
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Igpoe Samba Member
Joined: February 24, 2019 Posts: 853 Location: South Boston, VA
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Posted: Tue Jun 22, 2021 4:20 am Post subject: Re: Inspecting engine? |
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You might consider how much time you have available. Reassembly will take longer than disassembly! _________________ '73 super. |
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Max Welton Samba Member
Joined: May 19, 2003 Posts: 10697 Location: Black Forest, CO
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mark tucker Samba Member
Joined: April 08, 2009 Posts: 23937 Location: SHALIMAR ,FLORIDA
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Posted: Tue Jun 22, 2021 10:18 am Post subject: Re: Inspecting engine? |
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if you like the car, I would do what it takes to make it reliable( fix the leeks, adjust the valves etc.) then start building a new motor.since you say it's underpowered I would suggest 82 -84 stroke ,b pistons. cb lostpancheatos heads. H or I beam new rods.new aluminum case.30 mm pump.slot lifter bores & deburr cam lobes, total seal rings.duel 40 or 44 hpmx carbs. that should be plenty of power and reliable, eazy to assemble. coated bearings would also be good. do it right do it 1 time be done and have fun and forget about it. |
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Rome Samba Member
Joined: June 02, 2004 Posts: 9602 Location: Pearl River, NY
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Posted: Thu Jun 24, 2021 4:39 am Post subject: Re: Inspecting engine? |
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With the engine out, sit down on a cushion on the floor and clean up the rear end of the clutch cable. Spray rust penetrant onto the wing nut, hold the cable with vise grips, then work the wing nut loose if stiff. Clean the threads on which the wing nut moves with a wire brush, then apply grease to the threads. When the engine is back in and you plan a clutch pedal freeplay adjustment, you'll be on the ground on your back and reaching up to get to the wing nut. You'll want the nut to be easily turnable with your bare hand.
Also, the engine compartment opening has a hefty rubber seal that goes around it, fastened to a "C"-shaped channel in the body. That seal is important for keeping hot exhaust air from being pulled into the engine by the engine fan, and reducing the effectiveness of the cooling. If your C channel is partially rusted off, or it's already cut due to your removable rear apron, you can use a different seal than the original-style rubber one. You can use the foam seal for a 1970's Bay Window bus, which has an "H" profile. It's much more expensive than the rubber seal (i.e., $40 vs $10) but it's easy to install once the engine is in. You turn the seal sideways, then push it in place with your fingers or with a wooden paint stirring stick. If you go this route, here's a shot of the seal. This one's in a Thing but would be same in a Beetle (deafen photo)- |
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dunc2027 Samba Member
Joined: May 31, 2021 Posts: 9
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Posted: Sun Jun 27, 2021 1:34 am Post subject: Re: Inspecting engine? |
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Sorry the gap in response. Long hours at work this week. Thanks for the advice!
Max, I am sad to say there are no Harbor Freights here in Hawaii. I would say that's fine because I would spend all my paychecks there, but the reality is I do anyway -- just now at Home Depot and OReilly for more money.
Mark, that's probably what I will do. Install new seals and whatnot, pull & document the heads so I know how much time I have, then put it back together and drive it while I make plans.
Rome, I will clean up the clutch cable like you said, and look into the gasket. The car came with an original-style one NIB because the current has rotted away. |
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