95 EV: all 5 spark, good fuel, in proper time, will not run

[VWinny]

Cleaned the tank out new fuel filter, pump, pressure regulator, rebuilt injectors, i believe it is flooding. turned pump off. Sprayed starter fluid in intake tried to run will not.

I got spark on all 5 plugs, i got clean fuel and air.

Anyone seen this before?

Maybe an ecu security cut off or something?

[CdnVWJunkie]

Best be very careful with starter fluid. Things can south in a real hurry with the usage of it. This is a situation where less, is more.

If it won't fire on starter fluid which is extremely volatile, then i'd wager you're not getting proper spark.

[TheOneTrueQuux]

[VWinny]

I'm in time, on compression stroke distributor cap is aligned with mark on distributor. I cannot find a pic of the camshaft timing mark proper location anywhere. As best as I can tell, the camshaft sprocket mark should be in the window of the rear drive belt guard.

Anyone have a diagram of the correct location for the camshaft sprocket marker? Anyone know if it should be aligned in the window of the rear belt guard on the compression or the exhaust stroke?

Spark plugs are brand new iridium clean and sparking on each cylinder not fouled. brand new camshaft position sensor as well. I do think it is a timing issue Im getting spark to early or too late. I have gone up a notch with the drive belt moving the camshaft sprocket in both directions still not rolling over.

[VWinny]

[VWinny]

related to the camshaft timing pic: I have gone up and down one belt drive notch from that position and it still will not roll over. Got fire on all plugs and getting proper gas in each cylinder so I know its something with the timing.

My manual says top dead center is with both valves closed i.e. compression stroke. I have verified marks in pictures are on compression stroke.

[BatesEV]

https://vweurovan.fandom.com/wiki/Digifant_Ignition_Basics

Here is a good read on the system. I’m going to say replace the coil. You may have spark but you may not have a strong spark. Also when I killed my MAP sensor I couldn’t get my van to run. It would flood out and seriously used 10-15 gallons of fuel in 50 miles

[VWinny]

its a brand new coil plugs and wires as well as distributor.

[VWinny]

also, i swapped a manual into this. don't know if it might be throwing something off in ecu

[BatesEV]

The trans swap won’t effect things. Are all 5 grounds good? If so I’m leaning towards the ECU. I had similar issue. My map sensor got ruined by gas from the fpr. Swapped the sensor and ran great

[VWinny]

I'm assuming the ground for the plugs is from the coil? when i put the new coil in i ran fresh ground wire from the frame to the coil.

[VWinny]

i'm also assuming its grounded well because i have a nice blue spark on each spark plug and wire.

[VWinny]

I will be taking a look at the map sensor and ecu tomorrow. I did not know about that issue, thanks very much for the info. It sounds and feels like its getting a late spark... thank you!

[BatesEV]

Well there is the ECU ground by the battery, one at the coil, one at body by battery/transmission, one on block above after run pump, and one by the injector conector. Electrical is very sensitive. Wait till you do the timing and idle correctly. It’s like a 90s video game cheat code

[VWinny]

thanks buddy, i was pretty good at tetris and I'm horrible at quitting so..

[VWinny]

ECU and MAP look good. It looks like the map replacement involves soldering, which I am hesitant to do on this hard to find piece of hardware; that being said, I'm going to spray it out real good with some electronics cleaner and give it a shot.

I have all the grounds in place you mention don't see any ground near fuel injector rail that you speak of unless you are talking about the one on the head next to the coolant pipe? Where exactly is this one you refer to?

[VWinny]

[TheOneTrueQuux]

Is it possible that when you put the flywheel on, you got it out of phase with the crank? I think there's a locating pin to prevent that, but perhaps not.

[VWinny]

there's only one way to put the flywheel on, There are 8 bolts on it and two of them have a slightly smaller distance in between each other to ensure it is bolted on correctly. Also, I marked TDC on it so when I go to fine tune timing i will have the marker. Additionally, the marker on the flywheel lines up when the marker on the crankshaft is in correct position on front drive belt guard.

[BatesEV]

This is the injector harness ground. It also grounds the o2 sensor. The yellow loom is what runs down to the o2 sensor and p/s switch. This is on the front/back side of engine. Under the injector conector.

Silly question but have you scanned it for codes? The map sensor isn’t that bad to change. You can physically really tell if it’s bad either. It would need testing or check on vag com

Also what started all of this or did it just happen?