A/C hose (Red-Tek) burst (Update and new issues)

[RufusRockwell]

So, my perfectly functioning A/C decided to bail on the hottest day of the year.
Some background - 85 tin top with Subaru 2.2 with the A/C unit on ceiling behind driver and passenger. When I did the engine conversion I refurbed the A/C and replaced the two long hoses that go from front to back

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...p;start=20

Anyhow, It's 109 in the PNW and I'm returning from a camping trip on John Day. From the left side behind me I hear a PHOOOMSSSSSHHHH. My first thought was the lines that run up the wall inside and right behind my head burst and were releasing flammable Red-Tek into the van and that I would blow up at any moment. I immediately turned off the A/C and opened the windows. Turns out the line in the wheel well that goes from the receiver drier up to the evaporator burst.

I'm wondering if it was just the heat combined with the age of the hose (I didn't replace this one) or, if a rock from my tire hit it. The location of the puncture indicates this could be possible and I did hear stuck gravel flinging out of the tires as I was driving. Side note, I thought about shielding these hoses but didn't because I figured VW would have done that if it were necessary...Hmmm

Now I need to set about getting it back up and running and I'm wondering how vital is it that I replace the receiver drier and expansion valve since the system has been breached. Both are about two years old. I was hoping I could just drop the A/C , replace that hose, and be on my way, but I don't want to fudge it and damage the system further.

Any thoughts appreciated.

[kourt]

For me, I would splice in an inline splicer, maybe change out the receiver/drier, recharge, and be done with it.

This solution path keeps you from trying to replace the whole hose.

RedTek operates at generally lower head/system pressures, so I would think this is related to physical damage from being in the wheel well.

kourt

[skills@eurocarsplus]

probably found the weak spot in an old hose.

seeing it's not directly open to atmosphere if you get the new hose on quick you should be ok, just do a deep vacuum...like an hour or so.

most mfgr service procedures tell you if a system is open for more than a few hours replace the drier.
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[Sodo]

[RufusRockwell]

Ok, sounds like the drier will need to be replaced.

As I'm eager to get this fixed, I found a drier at Napa. It's got a valve on it in addition to the two connections. Looks like it might be for filling/vacuuming the system. Would this be a problem?

[skills@eurocarsplus]

the valve is probably for a switch. i'd replace the whole hose. newest vanagon is 30 years old (in the usa market) i would only do a splice to get me to the next town over....as in temporary repair. with the high heat comes elevated pressures. i think you're just gonna keep chasing weak spots in the hose
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[djkeev]

These forums are full of A/C repairs that get it going only to fail elsewhere relatively soon.

In my way of thinking, to reuse a 30+ yr old A/C hose is folly.

It isn't that much more work to do it right the first time (or second time)
Replace the hoses you over looked on the first repair.

If you use the EZ Clip system it is all DIY in your driveway.

Dave
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[RufusRockwell]

Definitely going to replace that hose!
I should have mentioned that.

[djkeev]

[JudoJeff]

New hose, new R/D mandatory, and pull complete vacuum for at least 4 hours. Check trinary switch wiring. A rock hitting the hose didn’t cause this.
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[RufusRockwell]

I'm going to do the one going to the condenser as well and that'll be all new hoses...Wooot!

[djkeev]

[kourt]

I'm going to change my tune and join the chorus. Yes, if this hose is original, replace it, and the receiver/drier. I have used coldhose.com for years to build custom hoses, but if you lack the tools for that, almost any custom A/C shop can do that work for you, often on a drive-in basis.

Keep us posted on your outcome--thanks.

kourt

[Sodo]

My system is 1990, , 5 years younger than yours.
My compressor is 2007 Subaru.

In 2018 I replaced the VW condenser because it had oil spots on it.
--->Replaced Air conditioning condenser with GoWesty
I added a can of stop leak and charged the system with RedTek.
It worked fine for the summer season.
In 2019 it did not work.
I added a can of stop-leak, and a can (or two?) of RedTek and the AC blew cold again.
In 2021 it still works fine.
Fingers crossed...
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[Abscate]

You don’t need a new drier. Pull vacuum for four hours or so,

That’s the low pressure side so probably hose damage vs an internal failure.
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.ssS!

[RufusRockwell]

Thanks for the replies.
I'm going to get some new hoses made today. I also took out the drier so going to replace that too.
I'll report back once it's all back together.

[RufusRockwell]

I got the hoses, end fittings, and drier and plan to install tonight.
The original fitting for the hose from drier to condenser has this long metal fitting on the end going into the lower side of the condenser.

The shop didn't have anything close to that so I got a standard 90 degree fitting. This means the rubber portion of the hose will run right up from under the van between the lower radiator bracket and the frame. There is definitely room for it to fit but I'm wondering what the reason for the original metal end was. I'm thinking either to avoid the hose rubbing on the surrounding area or maybe to avoid heat from the radiator? I don't see any obvious obstructions in the area, especially if I carefully secure the hose.
Anyone have any ideas about this?

[RufusRockwell]

Well, I got the new hoses and new receiver/drier installed and everything put back together, confident that once re-charged it would be good as new. It held a vacuum overnight so the system is sealed.
Previously, my system took just under two cans of Red-Tek to blow cold. I got one and a half cans in and the pressure gauge is reading in the red. When I disconnect the charging hose I realize that the valve on the service port is leaking/sticking. I put the cap on to hold it in....for now. A/C is not blowing cold. Also, I'm fairly certain that the compressor is not engaging - no sound, no difference in rpm. Maybe a connection? I ended up having to evac the system so that I can replace the valve and troubleshoot. Seems that the compressor not coming on is the likely culprit of the non-cold air but I'm perplexed by the high pressure reading with under two cans of Red-Tek.
Thoughts?

[khughes]

[skills@eurocarsplus]

yea, you need real gauges to diag this. need to know what the high side is reading as well.

in terms of these old systems not taking a charge...or new ones for that matter sometimes you have to jump the low pressure switch to get the clutch spinning and that helps draw the refrigerant in. (engine running obviously)

you for sure could have a legit problem or something went goofy when you vacuumed the system and there is still air in it.

how did you pull a vacuum?
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