All new clutch/shift/trans. Not shifting. What next?

[Rorke]

Shifts smooth when car is off. Shifts smooth when running just after a fresh bleed. Shifts like crap or not at all when a couple of hours pass.

I can't figure out where air is being introduced. No leaking anywhere.

I have bled it successfully several times. With a make shift board/shoe. With a friend. With a vacuum pump.

Rebuilt trans from Rancho.
New clutch kit from GoWesty.
New Slave (brand unknown.)
New clutch hose to slave.
New Master Clutch cylinder.
New shifter rebuilt kit from GoWesty, tabs, bushings, selector cup thing, coupler.

I was really hoping to buy into reliability with the new parts. Much of the work was done by me. Not sure where I messed up.

What new part should I replace first?

Slave?

[danfromsyr]

What transmission gear oil did you put in your new transmission?
what did Rancho recommend?
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[Rorke]

[skills@eurocarsplus]

i see no mention of a pilot bearing. had a guy with a bus that once it got hot, it wouldn't shift. pilot bearing smoked
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[Wildthings]

Was everything working correctly before the new parts were put in?

[Howesight]

The problem appears to me to be clutch drag due to the clutch not fully disengaging after running for some time. Since most clutch parts were replaced, I think continued attempts to bleed the system may be in order. My rig has an SVX engine and Smallcar bellhousing with the VW Jetta slave cylinder now, but before my swap, I seem to recall, there was a spot in the clutch hydraulic hose that was in an upward arc which could trap air.

Another thought is the hose connecting the clutch master cylinder to the brake fluid reservoir - - that hose can admit air into the clutch master cylinder if the hose is not tightly fitted.
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'86 Syncro Westy SVX

[Rorke]

[Rorke]

[Rorke]

[Rorke]

Another New slave and another new clutch slave hose.
Neither worked.

At this point I am just blindly replacing working parts.

When the bus is turned off and in 1st, it rolls like neutral.
I guess I have to drop the trans and identify whatever the problem is at the clutch.

Any other thoughts?

[DanHoug]

[Rorke]

Thanks. Definitely in first.

[vanis13]

[Rorke]

[vanis13]

[Rorke]

Rancho asked me
Did you bleed it? Vacuum and Buddy system?
Did you check for leaks?
Is the pedal soft?
Is there play in the pedal?
How old is master?
How old is slave?
How old is clutch?
Did you change pilot bearing?
Can you shift with car off?
Can car roll with car off and in first?

After all that, they said it is time to drop the trans and see if there is a problem.

I can drop the trans today. I just don’t know what to look for.
I have to do this today because if I find any problem, I know I’m going to be waiting for parts.

Every other project that I worked on since February has worked out OK. I am getting the bus ready because I have my 11-year-old daughter for all of August. I had intended on doing dream road trip with her. With only a couple weeks ago, I am getting extremely anxious.

[MarkWard]

Stock engine, clutch, and bellhousing? Before you pull the transmission, try a different gear with the engine off and rock the van back and forth watching the crank pulley. Regardless of gear selected it should move the crank.

Your original symptom does not match your current problem. So the original symptom was likely and indication a problem was brewing.

So, the clutch disc connects the engine to the transmission via the input shaft. So, if the engine does not turn in all 4 gears in the above test, the problem is likely in that area. 1 and 2 share the same operating shifter components internally. 3 and 4 have their own.

So for all 4 gears to be inop would be a near impossibility with an internal failure , unless the input shaft disconnected from the main shaft, the pinion snapped, or the differential spider gear assembly failed. All of those are internal.

So do the above test and report back. mark

edit: or a broken CV cage.
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[?Waldo?]

[garbaldie]

I had a very similar thing happen to me after doing my TDI conversion and installing a Stage 1 pressure plate. I bleed the clutch and everything would be fine after the bleed, it would shift into all gears easily; but after driving it for a short period of time I would notice it getting harder to shift, until eventually reverse and first became impossible to shift into while running, and second was very difficult.
Ultimately I suspected the cause was from the stiffened pressure plate and a small amount of air in the lines. Took multiple rounds of bleeding, especially getting all air out of the master cylinder. After these rounds of bleeding I saw some improvement, but not great, reverse and first were still quite troublesome. So lastly I unbolted the master cylinder and moved it out of the way without undoing the lines so I could access the push rod. I loosened the jam nut and gave the rod a few turns to lengthen it. Once everything was tightened up I had a perfectly shifting clutch, and it hasn't given me issues since.
I should note, there was zero free play in the pedal beforehand, as I had installed GoWesty's clutch pedal bushing fix when I had the assembly out during my restoration. Just a slight lengthening of the push rod gets the master clyinder to act earlier in the pedal stroke, so it applies more pressure sooner, which is what I needed when dealing with my stiffer pressure plate.

[Rorke]

Yesterday was the nicest weather in a long time. I took the day off and ran through the entire non-shifting situation stem to stern.

Since I didn't find any problems, leaks, bubbles, etc...and full articulation at the clutch slave....I had to drop out the new trans.

I was hoping to find a destroyed pilot bearing, but it was perfect. Nothing amiss.