1985 Westy missing post-fuel pump filter?

[Bernie1985]

I’ve been all over this site and thought I remembered another person posting the same issue, but is my Westy missing the fuel filter that should be after the fuel pump, before the engine?

I just got the Westy in January and just now had the engine die at 2 stop lights on different days. The RPMs also pulse (not sure what else to call it - goes up and down between 1k and 1200) - the previous owner told me that happens.

The square one between the tank and the pump was making noise like a radio speaker with crazy static, so I wanted to install the GoWesty upgrade kit (https://gowesty.com/products/gowesty-vanagon-fuel-filter-upgrade-kit) but I assumed there was already a filter after the pump and it was just to remove the square filter? Maybe not?

Here is a link to a quick video of what I have:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1sw23ab2RA-p8bobc8BZUDJCtyHargFVv/view?usp=drivesdk

A couple other things:
- can I use stainless screw down clamps (like the one already on the line) instead of the ear clamps that come with the kit
- do I actually need to drain the tank, or can I clamp off the lines and do a quick swap at the tank when needed?
- I have no idea what is in the tank - should I just put another in-line filter after the tank and be done with it - not installing the upgrade?

[E1]

It would help to know the year…

If pre-1986, the little green (stock to my knowledge), gray, or black box screwed to the driver’s-side firewall is the idle stabilizer. Its purpose is to even out the idle. If bad, idle will go up and down, if worse, it’ll stall like you turned the key off. You can try bypassing it by disconnecting from box and connecting the wires together, if that’s the issue your idle surge will continue but it won’t stall anymore.

On the filter, that’s a good kit. The buzz is coming from the fuel pump. Eliminating the plastic filter between tank and fuel pump is the purpose of the kit. Wrap a good rag around the hoses and clamp the inlet hose forward of the filter (gently) with Vise-grips.

If the fuel line headed towards the engine is plastic, have some caps or a bolt ready to stick in the line. Remove everything between and replace all parts, I use large, common, aluminum fuel filters and wrap it around the middle with a large hose clamp. Buy and carry a spare filter.

I just use good quality hose clamps for this job, the solid, non-slotted strap kind that won’t ever bite into the rubber.

The fuel pump buzzing should lighten up with the kit, but may or may not.
_________________
‘84 Westy, 2.1L with Digijet, 5.43 R+P, GT Gears
"Adding power makes you faster on the straights.
Subtracting weight makes you faster everywhere."
— Colin Chapman

[markswagen]

l was unable to watch the video, personally l prefer a pre pump filter, simply because fuel filters are much cheaper than pumps.
l prefer the oetiker clamps {crimp, ear style}
there's no reason you can't nip the hose to install a filter.
_________________
markswagen {mobile mechanic} san diego area all early VW's cared for.

619 201 0310

[harvgwen]

I read a couple of threads on this forum last year when I was playing with mine. IIRC, there was a reason why it wasn’t a good idea to have a filter before the pump. I think it may have been due to a tendency to vapour lock in high temperatures/high altitudes?
_________________
1986 Westfalia Vanagon, 2.2 Subaru
British Columbia, Canada

[E1]

I thought the idea was it's easier to push fuel through than to pull it through, but with Markswagen’s well-seasoned comment I can’t say.

I Q-tip clean the entry to the fuel pump regularly, but since replacing the gas tank it’s always clean with just the post-pump filter.
_________________
‘84 Westy, 2.1L with Digijet, 5.43 R+P, GT Gears
"Adding power makes you faster on the straights.
Subtracting weight makes you faster everywhere."
— Colin Chapman

[Ahwahnee]

My 84 has only the pre-pump filter (as original). I routinely drive in high temps (>100°) and high altitude (>9000') and have never had any issues with this set-up.

It does get changed every few years (write the mileage and date on the new filter) usually when it 'reminds' me by making extra noise.

[Bernie1985]

[Bernie1985]

[E1]

Thanks for saying “Thanks” Bernie, so, Thanks!

And Welcome to the Busylum.
_________________
‘84 Westy, 2.1L with Digijet, 5.43 R+P, GT Gears
"Adding power makes you faster on the straights.
Subtracting weight makes you faster everywhere."
— Colin Chapman

[djkeev]

Dang..... I so would NOT travel without a better filter than that square screen.

Too much crappy gas getting pumped today.

If you don't have the round can after the pump..... add it. No harm will come from doing so.
_________________
Stop Dead Photo Links how to post photos

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http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=392473

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http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6315537#6315537

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https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=482968&highlight=74+super+vert

[do.dah]

https://www.mansispeed.com/product-page/ms-103-pre...91-vanagon

[djkeev]

[DanHoug]

a post pump filter is important because components of the pump run in the gasoline stream for cooling and lubrication of the motor. the copper commutator, the carbon brushes, and the steel pump vanes can all shed particles, SOME of which may be larger than the pintle orifice of the fuel injector. and if a pump fails catastrophically, then all manner of woe is released into the fuel stream.

a coarse, grit filter is fine prior to the pump but anything with sufficient filtering for injectors ends up causing pump starvation and extra noise. Manispeed is selling a pre-filter, consisting of just a 30 micron stainless screen in an aluminum housing that seems to be just the ticket.
https://www.mansispeed.com/product-page/ms-103-pre...91-vanagon
_________________
-dan
60% of what you find on the internet is wrong, including this post.

'87 Westy & '89 Westy both 2.1 4spd

Past projects can be found at--
www.thefixitworkshop.com

[E1]

Thanks do.dah and Dan for posting that Mansispeed filter, looks great!

Are some of you advocating for using *both* filters? Sounds like the Mansi is coarse enough to not slow fuel flow… and Thanks Dan for the great explanation of what we’re trying to keep from the injectors (!), I never quite realized all that in such depth.

Bernie, I, too struggled to get the vid to load, but did just see it. One suggestion is to trim or otherwise better contain that plastic fuel line hanging down so it’s never lower than the frame rails and prone to breakage (or worse).

Also clarifying by my “replace all parts” I didn’t mean swap the fuel pump if working, should have said “reinstall all parts along with those in the kit.”
_________________
‘84 Westy, 2.1L with Digijet, 5.43 R+P, GT Gears
"Adding power makes you faster on the straights.
Subtracting weight makes you faster everywhere."
— Colin Chapman

[hardway]

A 1985 T3 left the factory with only a pre-pump filter. It doesn't hurt to add a post-pump filter. The stock later model post-pump filter has such fine filtration that it can become clogged. Many of the stock pumps have screens at the inlet. They can become restricted also.

Japanese vehicles of the 80's and 90's have fuel filters that do not get clogged readily. The theory is that if a particle is small enough to pass through the injector, there is no reason to trap it in a filter. I understand the thought but it is not the German massive overkill way.

After chasing driveability issues for so long in my career, I have taken to installing a pre-filter in my later model vans. I am good with massive overkill.

As to hose clamps- Worm drive clamps that are pierced like standard American clamps are a bad practice. Oetiker style squeeze clamps are fine but one time only. I prefer the smooth, full circumference band clamps with an external bolt. These are OE in many German applications. Spring clamps or constant tension clamps are great also.

[E1]

Exactly the clamps I use for this job.

I get scared if ever seeing worm-style clamps on engine bay fuel lines!
_________________
‘84 Westy, 2.1L with Digijet, 5.43 R+P, GT Gears
"Adding power makes you faster on the straights.
Subtracting weight makes you faster everywhere."
— Colin Chapman

[crazyvwvanman]

In California models VW fitted the large downstream filter in earlier years.

Mark