1985 2wd Doka build (Subarugears?)

[specialev]

I put a subi 2.5 in my tristar with a flipped subi 5 speed I built with one of the early kits from 5speedbus (Dave) and subarugears. I did frag my initial pinion shaft but Subarugears fixed it since they'd incorporated a stress concentration into their aftermarkets pinion. It's a daily driver and I've got ~20kmiles on the truck since then. The 5speedbus shifter has been problem free.

Here's the details.
89 Tristar Doka Build!

[kewilso3]

[specialev]

I haven't found any major wiring differences. There are some differences for DRLs and other stuff for the Euromarket. I found some schematics somewhere and printed them out and tucked into the bentley.

Air cleaner is just hanging out as shown.

[Crankey]

This is what I did to isolate engine intake air path into the tail light cubby.
It's 1" thick foam sheet, same kind of foam used for plumbing insulation.

I cut strips that fit snugly into all the voids.

The tail light cubby will house the air cleaner and have a sealed panel so no engine bay air gets in there, or a least not much.
This would work with Chris Schimke's mustang air intake method.

My air filter won't be like it's shown for long...new swap on the calendar with a full revamp of the install.

[kewilso3]

That's a nice easy way to do it, I have foam that would work. Is that a box for your ECU?

[Crankey]

[kewilso3]

I've gotten to a sticking point where I've been unable to find a clear answer. Below is how I have my battery / starter / alternator wired currently, but I'm not confident in it. Any tips?

The white/blue wire from the Subaru ECU used to go directly to the Subaru starter, but is now wired to the starter signal wire in the junction box, is that correct?

I mostly re-used the VW wiring (all wires in pic coming off the Battery positive post and off the starter are original VW) I modified my harness with Vancafe instructions but they didn't provide instruction for the alternator circuit.

2003 Legacy 2.5 and manual trans / 1985 2wd gas Doka

[kewilso3]

Well, today was the big start-up day. Got all my fluids in, soldered up the last wiring connections, put the battery in and wired it up.

As soon as I connected the battery a cd popped out of the head unit which was a bit odd.

I primed the engine without plugs or fuel to get oil circulating before reinstalling them. Started up first try and I let it idle for maybe 30 seconds while I ran around looking for leaks, smoke, fire, etc and everything looked good.

Then I went to turn it off. Key turns and pulls out but the truck keeps running... so I disconnect the battery, nothing. I then pulled the fuel pump power and that killed it.

The IACV and ECU I noticed were hot to the touch.

So now I am where I dreaded being, with some wiring issue somewhere that I need to track down. I must have constant power where I should have switched power somehow.

Does anyone have any advice? I'll be going through all the guides I have again to see if I missed something...

[mitch5]

It may have something to do with the alternator being connected to the same terminal as the ecu power with no main ecu relay to cut power via the ignition switch.I’m not familiar with that particular wiring for the swap but there should be a relay for power going into the ecu. My ej22 swap utilizes the Subaru relays for this.

Congrats though the engine started and runs with no leaks! Now you just gotta figure out how to turn it off.

[blink]

i cant help with your issue but awesome to see you got it running. we are going to need pictures tho haha

[r39o]

So does it drive????
_________________
"Use the SEARCH, Luke" But first visit the Vanagon FAQ!

1990 Multivan EJ 22, Rancho trans 0.82 4th, Small Car front AC, CLKs w/ 215/65-16, homemade big brakes 303mm, Konis, Recaros, etc....

Click to see my ads for Cup holders, Subaru clutch fix and CLK wheels (no wheels currently)

[kewilso3]

I have had the wiring and all mechanical work 'done' for a while now, but cannot get the clutch to work.

-I have bled many times with a power bleeder to get the air out and the pedal feels good, with the clutch fork travel matching that of my OEM Forester

-New 1" piston slave

-New Factory replacement master

-disassembled and reassembled the clutch, friction disc, clutch fork, TB, all moves freely and is installed correctly

-Clutch plate just barely moves when clutch is pressed and so does not disengage, making it impossible to shift gears.

My next action is going to be to get a new clutch line made so that I can run a 13/16" slave in hopes that I'll get a bit more travel through the fork. If that doesn't work, I guess I'll have to order a new clutch kit but it sucks to wastes the money from the last one I bought brand new, and I'll have to drain all fluids and pull engine again to do it. I work in the driveway and 60+ hrs a week at my job so I just haven't had time.

[11BC2]

[kewilso3]

[Silverghost500]

Can you use something like a Motive bleeder to see if that gets any air out of the hydraulic system?
_________________
1986 Volkswagen Vanagon Westfalia "Von Westy"
Honda K24A converversion-Road Testing Phase
3-Speed Automatic

Von Westy YouTube Channel
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCbhyZYxJEQrUuLnMbLleeIA

[kewilso3]

[kewilso3]

New clutch fork, new pivot bolt, new spring clips arrived, waiting to go in. Does anyone know how much the pressure plate should move when the pedal is pressed? I know it's more of a Subaru question in this instance. I also noticed that the pressure plate doesn't look like it stays perfectly parallel to the friction disc as it retracts... could this point to an issue with the PP? Can I bench test it somehow?

[Franklinstower]

I had to modify my clutch slave push rod to get enough travel. At first I used the 13/16" slave and it didn't work for me. I then went to the 1" slave (I assume your are using Dave's Kit?) but I still had to make a custom length pushrod to achieve the throw I needed. I don't have a measurement of it, but it was pretty easy to figure out. Bleeding the slave and master was really simple, you shouldn't need any power bleeder.

Here is the specs on the clutch hose I made:
1" bore clutch slave luk lsc471; 32" hydraulic hose with brakequip fittings~m12x1 female bubble flare; 7/16 24 sae inverted flare steel 90° on slave side. About 34" over all.

My clutch pedal feel is perfect.
_________________
'89 Westy - EJ25/22 Frank 4.44 5mt
'75 Miami Blue Sunroof FI Standard Bug

[kewilso3]

So I assume you made a longer pushrod? I have a buddy with a lathe, would be easy to try. I had considered shimming the pivot ball with a thin washer, but adjusting a pushrod would be much easier. Thanks for the tip

[kewilso3]

Well, I am down to my last idea, which is that my clutch, or part of the clutch kit (flywheel, throwout bearing, clutch) is defective. All parts in the system are now new. This round I have replaced:

-Clutch fork
-Pivot ball
-All 3 retainer springs
-Clutch master

I have bled the system with fresh fluid many times, with a power bleeder. I machined a custom length clutch slave pushrod that takes up all available slack. I adjusted the pedal linkage for almost zero play. I guess I will buy another clutch kit, possibly OEM, and try again...