Fuel Lines

[therusty]

Has anyone replaced the main (tunnel fuel line ) with something modern which can handle the ethanol in todays fuel . Also the lines from the fuel pump to carb

I would be opening up the tunnel for repairs .

There is some issue with the old stock metal fuel line, so want to replace it with something modern that's safe .

Thank You

[Cusser]

[therusty]

Yes the main tube has some issue , there is a fuel leakage in the tunnel, also I would be changing my floors so I do have a chance to open the tunnel, change the line and use anti rust it .

[ashman40]

The stock carb fuel line running inside the tunnel is metric 5.5mm OD. The stock fuel hose that mates with the lines are 5.5mm ID. Tubing is measured by OD; hoses are measured by ID.

You can replace the center tunnel lines with steel or stainless steel tubing of the same OD. Though, you might struggle to find 5.5mm OD tubing depending where you live. Consider 1/4" stainless steel tubing (1/4" = 6.35mm) or you may consider upgrading to a larger 5/16" (7.94mm) tubing while you are inside the tunnel. The later fuel-injected Beetles had 7mm lines in the tunnel.
You might need to use adapters at the tank and pump ends if they still use 5.5mm fittings.


I am looking at doing the same thing you are for my '67. I'm guessing the center tunnel line is bad in my Beetle because the PO installed a rubber fuel hose from the tank to the engine for fuel. They routed it along the center tunnel inside the car.
I bought both 1/4" and 5/16" stainless steel lines to replace the stock line. Two lines will allow one to be the return in case I decide to go with FI down the road. I plan to install AN fittings at the end of the steel lines so the flexible hoses can be replaced with braided stainless hoses.
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AshMan40
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'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!}

[runamoc]

I replaced the tunnel fuel line with braided stainless hose end to end
_________________
Daily driver: '69 Baja owned 44 yrs - Plan B: '81 Rabbit Diesel LS Deluxe - Plan C: '72 Ghia
Yard Art: 2 Sandrails
Outback: '69 Ghia - '68,'69,'70,'72 Beetle - '84 Scirocco, GTI - Pair of '02 Golfs-
VW Wiring = It's just wires

[VW_Jimbo]

[therusty]

Thank You, the fuel lines is where I feel we shouldn't cut corners.

I want to do the same install AN fittings with stainless braided line.

[VW_Jimbo]

That all good, but get a solid stainless steel line in the tunnel, no joints inside the tunnel, extending out both ends. Then attach to those any way that suits your fancy! It will be safe and look good!
_________________
Jimbo

There is never enough time to do it right the first time, but all the time necessary the second time!

[therusty]

went through your page , thats a lot of hard work you have done.

[toxicavenger70]

I use this for the engine fuel lines https://www.belmetric.com/braided-metric-hose-oem-...eoh68a28l3

[Zundfolge1432]

Here’s 25 feet of steel coated line 1/4. Of all places this came from Advance Auto and cost less than 30 bucks. It’s enough to do a few cars😀

Then I can source this thick wall steel line also 1/4. Both of these are easy to hand form. The stainless would be somewhat harder to work with and maybe more expensive but should last forever😀

This stuff you buy by the foot, being thick wall it’s gonna last.
Look at the way it’s bent. This one goes from firewall to fuel pump. Not that hard to recreate the factory look and this thick wall will hold up better than stock over time.

[therusty]

Thank You, good to learn

[tsutclif]

This is an old thread but deals with similar questions I have. 62 Beetle. I had a bout with two clogged fuel filters over a few months time and decided to have the tank replaced. The clear type fuel filter was on the pressure side of the pump. I know that type of filter and the placement is not the best choice, but it did allow me to find the problem quickly get rolling when I got stuck.

So, new tank, new pump new filter and got stuck again after a few weeks. Filter was clogged. As dumb as it may sound, the shop that replaced the tank must not have cleaned out the metal lines because where else could the rust in the filter come ? Or, will the line just keep rusting because of moisture/ethanol issues.

Questions: Is cleaning out the metal fuel line a good solution if the inside of the tubing is the source of the rust? It would seem as though it’s just going to rust again and clog the filter.

There are rust preventative coatings for gas tanks and if the tubing was rusted, then clean thoroughly, would using that type of rust preventative be the way to go.

Not looking forward to replacing the tubing front to rear as you can surely appreciate.

[runamoc]

[tsutclif]

I learned to keep an extra filter in the car from the 1st time. The car is not driven that much, but unfortunately you don't get to chose when it going to stop running (middle of an intersection) and that is a big safety issue.

I think I will probably clean out the line thoroughly, and also check to see if there are any leaks in the hard line by using a vacuum gauge to see if it holds. I have 63 Vette with 10.5:1 compression (stock motor) and I run Sunoco 98 Octane ethanol free racing fuel. Side benefit is no moisture problems, no gasket issues. I can get ethanol free in lower octane levels as well but that seems like overkill.

[Teeroy]

Always run ethanol free fuel in your classic cars that don't get driven every day. Your rubber fuel system parts will thank you. It kasta longer than E 10 and won't absorb water as bad
_________________
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Founder Derr Wheat Panzers (DWP)
ARR #3
www.autosportsnorthwest.org

[toxicavenger70]

[slayer61]

My experience was similar. Newly repaired, flushed, and rinsed fuel tank. New carburetors, (electric) fuel pump & pre pump filter, and new rubber fuel lines. Sunday drives once went fine, next week, run like crap on bottom and worked well once on the main jet. Clean (idle) jets and she was back in business. SAME THING next weekend! DAMMIT! It occurs to me that my carbs have no protection from the crap in the metal fuel line. Problem solved after placing another filter right after the metal fuel line comes out of the pan. Happy camper now!
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[VWNate]

It's actually a fairly simple thing to get some stiff wire (NOT coat hangers !) and work it into the steel pipe from the back of the car, I like to bend a small 'U' shape in it and work it in and out, in and out, each time a little further in .

When you begin to feel resistance pull it all the way out, most often the far end if the wire will ave crud or rusty gunk on it .

Repeat until the wire come's out clean .

You can pour in some of your favorite rust dissolver (White Vinegar, Phosphoric Acid etc...) and let it sit a few hours/over night to dissolve the really bad crud .

Don't forget to pinch closed the short hose under the tank or you'll get a serious gas bath when the clog is removed .

After it's been scrubbed its wise to blow it out, you don't need a shop compressor, just use a bicycle pump .
_________________
-Nate

One last Beetle : 1959 #113 DeLuxe survivor ~ 36HP & full synchro tranny, 6 volts etc.

[FPGT72]

I have been looking at the hard line in my project. I figure when I am in this deep I should just replace it.

I was going to do a SS line as well, but I had a couple questions:

Is it possible to use the old line as a "pull cable" and use it to fish the new line through.

Should I take a section of normal rubber line, slice it down the center and wrap it around the hard line for a little extra protection from "rattling around" in the tunnel.

I just got the shift rod back in a few days ago, is it more easy with that out of the way?

Thanks.