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sam_w Samba Member
Joined: March 07, 2002 Posts: 1479 Location: Petaluma, CA
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Posted: Sun Aug 22, 2021 4:08 pm Post subject: I stripped both rear dram splines |
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3 months ago I stripped the passenger side, and damaged the hub. BTW it was difficult to get a stub axle , but I got an EMPI one from Moore parts. Everyone else was out of stock. I managed to drive a fair distance as I have a Quaife limited slip differential.
Ten last week the other side went, but only the drum was damaged.
Luckily I got a stash of spare pares when I got the Thingster over 10 years ago, and still had 2 rear drums. This one was oversize .055 so OK.
I haven't been doing a lot of off roading but it is a big motor, 2054 cc with 40 mm Webers for bottom end torque.
In my old drum I had replaced the wheel nuts with studs , will do it soon, but It is a pain to get a large 15" wheel & off road tyre on with wheel bolts, studs are much easier.
Everything seems OK from my test drive, and I hope that 275 lbs at the end of the wrench is enough.
Is this coincidental, or is something bad going to keep happening?
_________________ 63 singlecab
73 thingster
74 Thing |
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Wildthings Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50334
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Posted: Sun Aug 22, 2021 5:05 pm Post subject: Re: I stripped both rear dram splines |
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I would guess that the nut didn't get torqued tight enough. The specified torque is the minimum torque, I have no clue what the maximum torque might be. I know on my Bay I went from the Bay nut to the Vanagon nut which has more castellations (8 verse 6) so the minimum torque is ~50% higher without having the maximum torque being out of bounds.
No clue if nuts with additional castellations are available in the correct size for a Type 1 or not. |
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Vanapplebomb Samba Member
Joined: November 03, 2010 Posts: 5407 Location: Holland, MI
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Posted: Mon Aug 30, 2021 8:26 am Post subject: Re: I stripped both rear dram splines |
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Min torque with a flanged nut is 253 FtLbs. First torque to that, then take it up to the first cotter pin hole that aligns.
If the hole lines up at torque, I prefer to take it 1/12th a turn so that the next one lines up. My 3/4 digital torque adapter has a trace and peak hold function. I measured ~357 FtLbs when I did this… which is actually quite low for a thread this size. That’s why they have cotter pin holes to keep the nut from backing off… it actually isn’t very tight.
This was a stock stub axle. I expect this same 1/12th turn would take more torque with aftermarket chromoly stubs due the (most likely) lower elasticity of the material. It wound stretch as much, so the nut gets tighter faster.
_________________ 1800 Type 4 Berrien 295
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=487021 |
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Madkel Samba Member
Joined: May 02, 2008 Posts: 106 Location: North San Diego County
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Posted: Mon Aug 30, 2021 3:28 pm Post subject: Re: I stripped both rear dram splines |
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Hi Sam,
I have always torqued to a minimum of 300 Lb Ft. Then as stated prior go up to the next hole to line up the cotter pin in the crown nut.
Good Luck with it. _________________ 1973 Type 181 - 2016cc - 091 trans
ITS A FUN RIDE! |
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Wildthings Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50334
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Posted: Mon Aug 30, 2021 6:19 pm Post subject: Re: I stripped both rear dram splines |
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I have been known to switch the nuts from side to side, or even with another vehicle so I can get a higher minimum torque. |
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