Scored a local ‘65 Deluxe, The Monster

[Rome]

What worked for me on the front beam's stuck lower shock bushings was to heat them cherry red with a butane torch, clamp the vise grip over the bushing, then lever it off. The heat will expand the bushing to help break the rust bond. You can also give a shot of rust spray but that will instantly evaporate.

Will you paint your wheels 2-tone like they were originally in '65? Black centers with ivory outers? Easy to do with a mask made of several thin plastic "For Sale" signs taped together, then inserted firmly into the deep groove between the inner and outer portions of the rim. I experimented with that method last summer on a '68 Beetle 2-tone rim; worked well. You can even keep the mask in place for both colors, and start with the black paint for the centers. When you have 2 thin to medium coats applied, let the paint mist rise up out of the mask/flash off, then place a piece of cardboard over the mask to cover the fresh black paint. Next, spray on the ivory. The cardboard on top will prevent the ivory paint mist from settling down onto the black. Let everything dry for 1/2 hr then lift the mask straight up/outward so that the bottom edges don't touch the ivory paint. Let everything dry for a few days, or at least overnight before you take the wheels for the tire change.

At least a few of your engine tin screws will inevitably be rusted stuck. Two things have worked for me to loosen them: Find a sturdy screwdriver that has the metal shank going all the way through the handle. Place the screwdriver head into the screw head slot, and give the metal shank at the handle a good smack with a hammer. This motion sends a shock down through the threads. Or if you have an impact driver, use that. Now apply heat to the screw head with the torch tip. The heat will travel down the screw and cause expansion to help break the rust bond. Try loosening the screw while still very hot with that screwdriver. If it does not budge, grip the head with the vise grips holding it sideways. The screw will "usually" break loose. Then you can spray a shot of rust fluid under the head, and use the screwdriver to fully loosen it. Make sure your toes are out of the way when the screw comes fully out... it'll still be very hot.

[richparker]

Rome, I’m not planning on doing a 2 tone paint job on the rims. Although I do like your technique and maybe the idea will grow on me. I’m thinking the patina is busy enough and I’m gonna go with a solid color for now. It’s only paint and I can always change it at any time. Besides, I’m good at doing jobs twice. It is nice to know what color they are supposed to be, so thanks for that info!

As far as the tin screws go, there is not engine so that’s not a problem. All the dual port tin I got for the build is all apart already. You’re technique with the screw driver is interesting. I usually grab the head of the screw with a vice grips and unscrew it that way if it’s being a PITA.
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’71 Westy build
Adventure thread
’65 Deluxe Build
’63 Deluxe Build

[Rome]

Fair enough with the wheel color.

If you want a resource for seeing what was factory original on a '65, here's an excellent source. This remarkable, 8000 mile Beetle was documented by Classic VW Bugs which is a restoration shop right here in the same county where I live in southern New York. I saw this Beetle in person back in 2013 which was a real treat. I realize your motivation on your '65 is to get it presentable and functional so that you can drive it. Parts from many years before and after '65 will work. But at least seeing a detail on what was correct will help you decide if something close can work for you for now. http://www.classicvwbugs.com/65rubyoriginal/

[richparker]

[toxicavenger70]

Rich I might have a few 65' parts available if you need them.

[richparker]

[richparker]

Good afternoon with the bug. Tomorrow Samba member, Mtnbus and I are headed back to the VW graveyard then over to the engine builders shop. We both have a list of parts we are looking for at the graveyard. He got a long block to pick up from the engine builder and I’m gonna drop off my engine tin, heat exchangers and exhaust. Since that’s tomorrow’s plan, I worked on all that stuff today. I got 3 coats of paint on the wheels. I wire wheeled, primed and painted the tin, exchangers and the exhaust. Painting goes fast when it’s 93* and 0% humidity out. In between coats I worked on taking the drums off. I soaked the star washers in PB Blaster last night and that did help. I was able to get all the stars to move and successfully got the drums off.

Looks like my tires are getting a tour of the southwest via FedEx. They are already 2 days late, I guess they’ll show up eventually.

Some pics:

These heat exchangers are cherry

This exhaust is super nice too

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’71 Westy build
Adventure thread
’65 Deluxe Build
’63 Deluxe Build

[richparker]

Great day at the local graveyard! Mtnbus drove us in his ‘59 singlecab and if that wasn’t enough we got the major hook up. We both got a lot of the parts we were looking for and left very happy. Then we went to the engine shop. Where Mtnbus picked up a completed long block and I picked up a bunch of parts I ordered. I also dropped off and the tin I’ve been cleaning up.

Sounds like my 2109 will be around 8.75:1 compression, holla!!!

Looks like I better get the car ready to back to the shop before he has my engine done.

My tires have finished their tour of the southwest, the final two were delivered today.

The Slowwood ‘59 single cab is tight!

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’71 Westy build
Adventure thread
’65 Deluxe Build
’63 Deluxe Build

[richparker]

Got a few more hours in with the bug today. I decided to start at the rear and work my was forward. I removed the rear soft lines and disassembled the rear drum brakes. Then I wire wheeled everything, primed and painted the whole area. The drivers side was disgusting, oil caked dirt everywhere. So I decided to take off the backing plate so I could properly clean it, that’s when I discovered the broken ball separator. So, it looks like new rear bearings as well now. Hoping to pick them up tomorrow, if not I’ll just switch to the front and finish the rear when I get them.

Passenger side. I cleaned, primed and painted. I was hoping to get the drum back together, but that will have to wait until I get the new rear bearings.

Rear drums

Broken rear bearing

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’71 Westy build
Adventure thread
’65 Deluxe Build
’63 Deluxe Build

[richparker]

Dirty day with the bus. First I cut out the old and installed new swing axle boots. Then I started on the front brakes. I got both sides totally disassembled, races removed, everything cleaned, primed and painted. Seems like I didn’t do much, but it took hours.

I used FEBI boots

Check out that clutch cable…

Pic of the front

Tomorrow’s another day.
_________________
__________
’71 Westy build
Adventure thread
’65 Deluxe Build
’63 Deluxe Build

[67rustavenger]

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/2216113.jpg
The boot seam should be clocked at 10 or 2 to prevent leaking.

That clutch cable is special. There's more money and time. In the hook and nut setup. Than just replacing the cable with a new one.
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I have learned over the years.
Cheap parts are gonna disappoint you.
Buy Once, Cry Once!

There's never enough time to do it right the first time. But there's always enough time to do it thrice.
GFY's Xevin and VW_Jimbo!

[richparker]

[EverettB]

[richparker]

[richparker]

Spent 3 hours working on the bug today. Early this morning I dropped off my rims and tires to be mounted and balanced at my LTS. Still wish I could have bought the tires from them, they are good guys and totally understand. After that I came home and got busy. I removed the old master cylinder and reservoir. I took the lines off the reservoir and reinstalled it, although I won’t be using it. Then I pulled the gas tank. First I removed the float and got that moving freely again. Then I pulled the Spicket and sock, wire wheeled the tank and cleaned the spicket. Believe it or not the sock is in excellent condition. The inside of the tank didn’t look too bad, so I put a few aluminum pieces in there with some acetone and shook it around for a bit. Then I let it sit some and repeated the process a few more times. Tank looks great now! While the tank was sitting I wire wheeled and painted the area the tank sits and the area underneath it. Which I then primed and painted. When that was done I installed a new steering dampener. Then I decided to conquer the old shock sleeves that were suck on both the lower stud and the upper bolt. I tried heating it first and using the vice grips to turn it, that didn’t work. Then I tried the air chisel. The chisel worked like a charm on 3 of the 4, it I ended up cutting the fourth sleeve off with the cutting wheel. That was my day, doesn’t seem like much, if it was something. Tomorrow I’m hoping to pick up my tires, install the master cylinder, get the front brake hardware cleaned and the brakes reinstalled. As well as new shocks on the front and I’ll probably paint the gas tank.

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’71 Westy build
Adventure thread
’65 Deluxe Build
’63 Deluxe Build

[Pruneman99]

Did you drop the spacers into the Napoleon hat when you removed the master?

[richparker]

[richparker]

I got lucky there. When I got home I grabbed the flashlight and went to see if I lost the sleeves. I was shocked to see they were still there, but they had both fallen a bit. So I grabbed 2 screwdrivers and slid them through the sleeves till tomorrow. Phew…
_________________
__________
’71 Westy build
Adventure thread
’65 Deluxe Build
’63 Deluxe Build

[Pruneman99]

[Blue Baron]