1971 Bay "time capsule" 32,000 og miles

[Anchovy]

[Jay Pearson]

This Bus will stay original as it was produced and it will be brought up to top mechanical condition so it can be driven safely and confidently.

There was some confusion in my mentioning that earlier, ( I will not drive the "s" out of it nor will it be a daily driver). IMOP VW was really at it's best overall in the Bugs Ghia's and Buses in the 69-71 years, high quality, still in the owner can do most of the work on it phase and the IRS rear ends had them handling well, those years have been my "best of both world" VWs.

What I want is to have the Bus fully functional for a weekend drive or similar and look to take it to a few VW Shows so others can see and enjoy it. But it won't just sit in the garage.

SGKent, your earlier words rang true the other day when I was driving home in my daily car and the young lady behind me took her eye of the situation and bumped me in the rear, fortunately my foot was off the brake and it was a light tap no damage, had it been the Bus it may have made headlines in a bad way

Take Care

[SGKent]

[Jay Pearson]

Found the original purchase date on the State of California Temporary ID slip, taped on the inside of the glove box door still intact.

11/7/1970- cool piece of documentation.

Anchovy, yes the vinyl on the front kick on both sides has released a bit but does not appear due to moisture, but heat and time is my guess, fifty one years does things to the adhesives etc. Plan to remove them use a low heat ( hair dryer ) to get the material pliable and then reattach.

What's nice is they covered the front and passenger area floor mats and the rear cargo carpeted area all look in top shape.

[busdaddy]

I'm surprised the rear side panels in the cargo area and hatch panel aren't peeling too, it must have lived under a carport where only the nose got cooked by the sun.

Keep up with the pics, I'm loving every minute of it.
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[vwmerckx]

Really enjoying the story Jay!! Takes me back to when I purchased my 71 Westphalia in 1977. Closing in on 500,000 miles and still smile as much as I did Day One. Smart and amazing purchase on your part

Cheers!

[airschooled]

I like my tach when the radio is too loud to hear the engine.
Robbie

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[Jay Pearson]

Tail Lights and Back up light trim rings and lenses cleaned up very nicely.

Pulled the locking engine latch it has a some degradation of the chrome in it's 50 years of service. I have gotten a number of bug and Bus engine and rear latches in part lots but never seen a "latch cover" in place part #211827261, would love to hear the German name for it.

Can you imagine requesting one from the VW parts department. The good old days say back in the early 70's when that's where you went for your VW parts.

Bus Daddy the rear cargo area black vinyl is pretty good a little releasing and distortion from age and the perforated vinyl swaths above them have some waves in them.

Different materials age and effect the others the are in contact with or near. I think the term is outgassing that should bring some colorful input from some on the Samba

Take Care!

[Jay Pearson]

Refresh parts starting to arrive. Carburetor refresh first inline.

Positioned the back up light fuse holder into the correct position as pointed out earlier on this post.

Should have it cleaned up and back into place in the next few days.

Engine removal & engine seal refresh is on the list of to do's, that will take place in the Nov-Jan time frame.

Take Care!

[vwmerckx]

Bravo Jay! I like that you still have the original clamps on the brake vacuum check valve.

Since you will have the engine out, have you given any thought to removing the gas tank for a good rinse of the inside - if you feel there is a need to do so?

Cheers!

[busdaddy]

[wcfvw69]

[airschooled]

[Abscate]

A vote to send the OG beauty 34 PICT to the carb gurus here

By the time you buy a dip tank amd solvent, you spent more than half of the rework cost by a guy who has done a thousand of these and will have thst extraordinary set of skills, called expertise.
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.ssS!

[Jay Pearson]

I will thoroughly look over the fuel tank / connections when the engine is out.
I need to replace the fuel tank sender as well so I'm going to be in there after engine removal.

Need to take the Bus to the DMV for title & registration so I pulled the carb before hand as it was obvious that the base gaskets were leaking, otherwise this carb minus the outside "grunge" is near new internally, only 32k miles.
Have done many carb rebuilds over the last fifteen years this is mechanically the best condition pict 34 I have seen.

I would appreciate any input on how to free up the stuck Sunroof when I take that project on, even which way to turn the sunroof crank handle to open or close it in the "unsticking" process, the placement of the wooden shims as well. Have only rebuilt one of the VW metal sunroofs on a 66 bug. I understand how critical the correct procedure is to insure success so anyone with hands on experience please chime in. SG Kent has made himself available for input on this as well.

Thanks for your input on all the posts it is good to have a sounding board and to add reminders from experience. Really having fun on this Bus due to how little has been touched by other hands mechanically.

I have included two complete engine rebuilds that I completed on a 1961 Ghia I had previously owned, really proud of the OG motor as I even got the early 40hp thermostat working something that is almost never kept in place on motors from that period.

[busdaddy]

[Jay Pearson]

Bus Daddy, I need to see what comes out of the tank first and go from there, it is not clear on the final service done to this vehicle in 2015 at 32,030 mi, what really took place, if they put in a new unit or tried a repaired used unit. The vehicle then sat for another 6 years with only 150 miles added up to August 2021.

Either way when VW's sit like this one has the senders get sticky. I had a 19,000 mi 1979 SB about a 2 years ago that came with a similar sender issue and after trying to get a "new" after market unit to work multiple times ( I pulled the tank 6 times) I finally was able to track down a NOS Sender and although it cost $300 versus $39.99 In hindsight I would have been much happier had I laid out the 3 bills first and only pulled the tank once

NOS or rebuilding OG parts always works out best. I want to keep this vehicle a close to how it was from the factory or use og parts when needed, I'm looking for it to keep some of it's aged character versus a "new restoration look". I am going to need to have the wheels and bumpers media blasted and I'm still undecided as to if to powder coated (less likely to match og colors exactly) or to have them enamel sprayed.

Take Care!

[notchboy]

Jay, super nice bus. Id preserve and enjoy the ride all day long in that one.

I had the fortune of finding a low miler as well. It wasnt in as nice of condition as yours, especially the exterior, but the interior and all the undisturbed items on it were fun to explore and preserve.

I didnt even crack the engine case. I did pull the motor and freshen up all the paint and detail the engine bay. I replaced any perished items and had fun working with other here on the samba to recreate stickers.

Good luck on your passive restoration.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=416201&highlight=
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[busdaddy]

[SGKent]

if the sunroof is stuck then it is likely the cables are damaged. The ONLY way to get it open without destroying things is to slide it back.

There are two cables. and if either is broken or kinked the gear won't turn right. Then the ONLY fix is to pull the handle, then the two screws and gear. At that point one has to find a way to push the roof by hand - either thru friction, or using wooden shims in the front prying and trying to minimize the damage.

As the roof begins to open the back drops on two short ramps. Sometimes you can stand on a short ladder and slap the back corner of each side downwards with an open palm as someone applies friction against the inside of the sunroof panel without damaging the head liner. This may break it free and help it to drop. Then report back when it is two or three inches open. At that point if the cables are not damaged it may be possible to put the gear back in and use it, or slide the inner panel back (special clips have to be removed first at the front) and then remove the outside panel, giving access to the cables etc.. Slapping the back corners with the gear out may be enough to free it.
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