Driver Vent Window Help

[VJP5]

So I go to open my vent and the glass pops away from the tab.

It's not the greatest picture, but you get the idea. I consult my Bentley's and Haynes books and neither have any diagram explaining how these are set up.

I would think there should be a washer between the glass and the tab (on the outside part). I am guessing it dropped and is in the Bermuda Triangle because I could not find it. I tried just screwing it back in without a washer, but cannot get the threads to catch. It does not seem reasonable that you have to put that much pressure to push that screw in to catch the threads.

Does anyone have a diagram of how this should be put back together? If not, what kind of washer do I need, if any? Does it really take a ton of pressure to get that screw to thread or did someone maybe replace it with a smaller screw somewhere down the line? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

For those with A/C, you have no idea how critical it is to have working vent windows. Mine does not. These let in a tremendous amount of air to help keep front passengers cool.

Thanks
Vince
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1988 Vanagon Wolfsburg Tin-Top - "Elmo"

[hardway]

The screw should thread into the "tab". I mean the metal portion that accepts the hinge post. There is a small piece of lead that molds itself to fill and seal the hole in the glass. I see the cone of lead in your photo. Since it came apart with little force the threads in the tab have likely pulled out. Probably the glass has been replaced before and threads buggered at that time.

The most simple repair is to replace the quarter glass frame. You might be able to install an oversized screw. If I had to repair it I would opt for a helicoil in the "tab". Then it would be stronger than new. But if you do not have experience installing helicoils then this is not the job to start on. Another field fix would be to drill through the tab and rivet the assembly.

The path of least resistance is another frame.

Good luck.

[GreenMachineVW]

Here is a schematic:
https://volkswagen.7zap.com/en/rdw/typ+2+syncro/t2/1983-4/8/837-102000/

[VJP5]

[VJP5]

[VJP5]

Question on that diagram:

part #15 (the bolt) is listed as M5X7-E

Is the 7 the length (ie 7mm)?
If so, I can only find the M5 in 8mm length.
What is the E for?

I am not a mechanical engineer so this is like reading a foreign language
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1988 Vanagon Wolfsburg Tin-Top - "Elmo"

[T3 Pilot]

The vw fastener is listed as M5 x 7 mm. Oddball length.

Bigger problem is the corroded hinge tab. VW still makes the part #251837616

Hard to find and they require a rivet to be drilled and replaced.

You also need a new lead seal, Order a new one here. https://www.vancafe.com/281837750-p/281837750.htm. They call it “ pressure ring”

Talk to van cafe about ordering the new hinge tab from vw.

You could look around for a good used frame and replace the unit, cause it all has to come out of the door anyway to fix it right. Check with samba member stacy the glass guy for ideas…. User name is 16cv i think.
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1988 Vanagon

The most important part in every vehicle is the nut behind the wheel......

[VJP5]

[Crankey]

You could drill through the tab and get a longer screw and a nut.

To preserve security get a flat head security screw....torx or Allen with a pin in the center of the hole...find a penitex (I think that was the brand but it's 5 sided tool hole) or a spanner drive with the 2 holes.
Countersink the outside of the tab and nut the glass with a nylon washer so you don't have metal on glass.

To do the function of the lead 0 ring you might be ok with a rubber O ring or....
Mix up some JB weld and wax the glass, the screw and nut and do your assembly while the glass is shut snug in the rubber seal. Put a dab of the JB weld in the (waxed) hole where the screw goes and put the washer and nut on. When the JB weld is cured it won't stick to everything you've thoroughly waxed. But it should act as a spacer to locate the glass like the lead did.
Or maybe just a dob of silicone ?

Once your all assembled you could hide the screw with a swipe of Bondo or some kind of putty and paint.

This could keep the window secure till you feel like rebuilding the whole door innards and seals..

I think these tabs are cast zinc which among other things is an excellent sacrificial anode metal. Maybe zamak which has a lot of zinc in it and used a lot for cast metal parts. I think is more or less what people call 'pot metal'

Would it be crazy to replace the wing window glass with 1/4" lexan ?
I doubt you could bend it enough to get in, you sure couldn't brake it without a lot of effort.
It's very scratch resistant and for the security it offers it seems reasonable to compromise on this small piece of glass. Maybe even all the flat glass...🤔

[vanis13]