Transmission seizes in reverse grinds in 2nd

[Crimcyan]

4 speed beetle transmission, rebuilt several years ago Previous owner said it was built with freeway gearing. Never been ran until the other day to test. 1st, 3rd and 4th work fine. Reverse would work for about 5 feet then it will seize up with both clutch in and out. 2nd will not go in gear and would just start grinding. Tried adjusting the shifter plate found it was upside down, put it in the right way and problem still persists. Any idea of what could be the issue?

[busdaddy]

Welcome!
I wonder if the reverse issue is a brake binding up.
As for the second gear problem can you put it in gear with the engine shut off?, you could have a clutch adjustment issue, or a bad pilot bearing.

Is this a swing arm unit?, or IRS?
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[Crimcyan]

Thanks for the welcome!
I thought it was brakes locking up at first but it seems to roll fine backwards in first while the clutch is in. So it only locks up in reverse gear. 2nd seems to go in smoothly when the engine isn't running. Clutch pedal free play is about 1/2" to 3/4" so maybe slightly to tight.
I believe its a swing axle transmission

[busdaddy]

The clutch adjustment doesn't sound terrible, but there's many factors that could cause the input shaft to still be spinning when the pedal is depressed. A slightly warped disc, crap on the splines preventing a full release, or the previously mentioned pilot bearing. The problem is likely present in all gears, but 2nd may have a weak synchro so it seems worst in that gear, can you get it into reverse with the engine running?, a release problem usually makes reverse grind like a MoFo.

The binding up could be a shimming problem where the axles go into the transmission, it usually does it in both directions though, ride height also has an effect, does the ass end of the car rise up when you reverse?
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[Crimcyan]

I am able to get into reverse while the engine is running but it can only go 5 or so feet until it seizes up like the brakes are applied and the gear shifter gets stiff. I noticed absolutely no seizing or grinding while driving foward down the street skipping 2nd gear and shifting into 3rd from 1st felt fine. I absolutely cannot get into 2nd gear as if I try to it starts grinding like crazy.
I didn't notice the back end raise up when going into reverse is just feels like it gets tight. The car is slightly lowered

I also tried raising the back end up off the ground to try going through the gears going from 3rd to 4th was fine but reverse was still locking up and 2nd was still grinding.

Yesterday was the first time this car and transmission has seen the road so nothing should be worn out unless it was rebuilt incorrectly by the previous owner.

[Crimcyan]

To add a bit more information the pan and body is a 57 oval, the transmission is a 61+ synchro transmission, I found it didn't grind if I held back the shifter in 2nd really hard then started the motor but as soon as I let some pressure off the shifter it would grind. I drained the oil it did seem a little metallic but no chunks and nothing stuck to the magnetic drain plug. However oil did seem a bit lower then it should be.
I did some searching around and found the shifter bushing and coupler could make 2nd gear rub with reverse, both bushings and couplers should be new. Im just wondering now if there could be part that's not compatible thats causing these issues.
Coupler I have in there: https://www.jbugs.com/product/16-5102.html
Then I noticed shifter plate is missing the small upward tab on the left side

[dirtkeeper]

Seeing that this is the first time run of rebuilt several years ago. Have you confirmed it’s filled with fluid?

[Crimcyan]

Yes had oil, I am able to get it to go in 2nd now while the engine is running. But I have to hold the shifter back or else it would want to pop in reverse. Reverse doesn't seem to be seizing up anymore.

[Ohio Tom]

It really sounds like something is wrong with the trans.
There is a lock-out bit that prevents 2nd and reverse from being in gear at the same time.
Sounds like maybe that bit is missing (fell out). It can happen....

Or...

Also, running the shifter w/o the gate-plate installed correctly opens the door for really doing bad things to reverse. go to grab 2nd and hit reverse?
Reverse is weak. accidental engagement will make parts break inside.
the idler shaft will pop the snapring off and start moving around.

I just repaired a 6-rib that didn't have a reverse lockout gate-plate on the shifter. Owner accidentally hit reverse when driving.
it was a total mess inside. Had to replace most everything. 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear, sliders, hubs, reverse,... It was sad.. All because of a missing gate-plate.


I suggest getting the box fixed before it becomes more expensive.