Restoration build

[EVfun]

A new front beam is readily available and affordable. You should get a beam with lowering adjusters installed. Buggies are so light up front that you will need it to even run stock height. Here is the first example I found (that wasn't Amazon) in a google search.
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[oprn]

I bought an adjustable lowered beam but I found that I needed to crank the adjustment back up as high as it would go because with the reduced travel of lowering it, the suspension would bottom out on big bumps at highway speeds and the front end would bounce off the road. If I had it to do over I would use a standard height adjustable beam and buy drop spindles. That would allow full suspension travel over the bumps and keep the tires in contact with the road.
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We had the stone age, the bronze age, the industrial age and now we are in the age of mass deception and mind control for corporate profit. (The mass media age)

[XMZJW5]

Well I had some time to look at the rust issues and started poking around to find it was way worse than it looked. I thought about getting a new front beam but finances and Christmas coming up with 5 kids says I can't.

So I decided to cut out that entire section and build a new one. I used 2x4 tubing. The stuff that was there was VERY thin, not sure if it was supposed to be or not. I cut and welded in the tubing. Where it connects to the existing part I put in some plates to mount to. Full disclosure, I have never taking a welding class and kind of suck at it. Not pretty but it's functional.

After welding in the parts I bent some 1/8" plate around the bottom of the tube and welded it into the 2x4 to tie it all together.

Then I did something that might be bad. But it worked. The top beam already had 6 leafs taken out so at first I pulled 6 from the bottom but it was WAY too soft. So I cut the middle out and turned it about 1.5" and welded it back in and put all leafs in the bottom. Looks like it's at the hight I wanted. Painted it all and put it back on.

I'm not 100% this is going to work good for the long term but there is only one way to find out.

Next I'm probably going to shorten then clutch and brake pedals and then box the frame. I kind of have a strange idea for this. It seems that typically when boxing it's done from the under side. I am playing with the idea of doing it on top for 2 reasons.

First my rear tires a pretty big and to be able to drive without rubbing the body it has to be jacked up high and being swing axle means lots of positive camber, looks silly to me. I also plan to put on adjustable spring plates to get a more precise ride hight.

Second I want to have the car with an aggressive looking stance. I plan to do this by using 2x2 tubing and tapering it. Basically have full 2" body lift in the rear tapered down to 1/4" in the front. It might look silly not sure but only one way to find out.

[Q-Dog]

well, there is this.
http://www.evwparts.com/vwparts/ACBeam/113401021REP.html
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Brian

'69 Dune Buggy
'69 Beetle Convertible
'70 Beetle

[EVfun]

There are needle bearings and phenolic bushings inside that beam. Welding the heck out of it while assembled might not be a good idea.
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[Q-Dog]

They are just shock mounts. They don't need to be heavy.
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Brian

'69 Dune Buggy
'69 Beetle Convertible
'70 Beetle

[XMZJW5]

[XMZJW5]

Been a while but got some more work done on boxing the pan. Not fully done but have most of it partially welded in. Going to fully weld it where the tubing meets the pan just got to get more wire first.

[XMZJW5]

Been a bit. Now have the body back on for now. Only 4 bolts holding it on. Also got it sanded down the majority of the way and patched the large holes with fiberglass and long strand bondo to level it all out. Still have more sanding to do then start the painting.
I need to go through and do all the wiring too but I am not looking forward to that. Right now everything is direct powered through the fuse box. All the key does is start the car and everything has power without the key. That will probably be what I work on over the next few days. I hate wiring...

[XMZJW5]

Been a little while. I had lots and lots and lots of sanding, fiberglass and Bondo work to do. But I am happy with it and primed it today. Now I have a lot more sanding to do before more paint it's coming along though.

I made the inner fiberglass part have a smooth transition to the outside and now it looks like all 1 I am also going to paint the inside. Before it was just black and the outside was purple. I'll attach some photos shortly

[XMZJW5]

[oprn]

Looking good! You have put a lot of work into this Buggy!
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We had the stone age, the bronze age, the industrial age and now we are in the age of mass deception and mind control for corporate profit. (The mass media age)

[XMZJW5]

Thank you and a ton more to go...


So I started sanding the primer today and here are a few things I learned.

1: ouch! Block sanding SUCKS.
2 I hate old fiberglass,
3: older fiberglass sucks to paint and I should have skimmed the whole body first. (See pictures)
4: ahhh my arms are killing me and might fall off.
5: when something looks flat it definitely isn't. Guide coat is great and a pain in the but too.
6: probably going to have to do some more Bondo work and prime it again. But use guide coat before I primer and not just after.

[XMZJW5]

Painted it black today and added a little vw love on it. Will have to do another coat of black before I spray the custom purple later this week. I tipped the pain gun too much when it was full and it caused some really bad drips/runs that I had to sand smooth.

[XMZJW5]

Well I had the pearl purple done and was letting it dry overnight when a big wind storm hit and ripped my paint booth up smashing it into the freshly painted car and put some bad gouges in it... So after I sanded it all back down primed it, sanded more, painted it black, and sanded more. I was able to get the purple pearl on.

Then this more recent weekend I did the 2k clear. It looks 100 times better than before but I did end up with a little orange peel effect but not nearly as bad. Going to sand it again and hit it with another few coats of clear before I start putting it back together for the last time this coming up weekend. I'll try to get a bunch of photos of everything I can before it goes back for the last time

[joemama]

Looks Awesome! Lots of people are going to go nuts over it when you drive it around. Congrats on a job well done. Hard work pays off!

[slayer61]

Your buggy is very cool. I've always been a fan of the "T" bucket. Keep up the good work.
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[XMZJW5]

Well having an electrical issue, and I hate electrical stuff so going to explain this best I can.

First off, I have a new starter and the battery is showing 12.6v with a volt meter.

When attempting to start I get nothing most the time, sometimes I get a very sad attempt at the starter to kick and spin but it's almost like the battery is dead. Battery is a year old and was stored on wood when I had it out of the car. Also is reading 12.6v so that seems pretty good to me.

Starter wiring

The big red one goes directly to the battery, the small one goes directly to the rear post on my key ignition. I verified with an ohm meter that when turning the key it connects that post with the power post that goes to the battery.

When turning the key to start I am getting 12.4v on the line that goes to the starter.

I replaced the starter because right before the rebuild my old one was having issues starting (just like this). So am I over thinking this and it's just the battery or any I missing something. Hate to get a new battery kinda broke right now and trying to save everywhere I can.

[slayer61]

Bypass everything else and put 12 volts directly to the starter. (temporarily as a test) This will eliminate other variables. Try a battery from the other car, a lawn mower, anything at all.
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[XMZJW5]

So I just connected jumper cables from my battery to the starter pos to main stud, ground just to starter body. And then just jumped from positive side of starter to the place where yellow connects and and turns strong. Has to be wiring ☹️. Going to start with the ground. I was trying same thing before I connected the jumper cables with no luck. Thanks for the help