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mukluk Samba Member
Joined: October 18, 2012 Posts: 7011 Location: Clyde, TX
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Posted: Tue Aug 09, 2022 12:56 pm Post subject: Re: 1959 Beetle Restoration Project |
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Maybe I missed it somewhere, but why didn't you reinstall the shoebox tins? Without them in place you'll get uneven cooling and the thermostat won't work correctly. _________________ 1960 Ragtop w/Semaphores "Inga" |
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pastellgreen Samba Member
Joined: January 06, 2012 Posts: 1042 Location: Germany
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Posted: Wed Aug 10, 2022 3:23 am Post subject: Re: 1959 Beetle Restoration Project |
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mukluk wrote: |
Maybe I missed it somewhere, but why didn't you reinstall the shoebox tins? Without them in place you'll get uneven cooling and the thermostat won't work correctly. |
- that above also puzzles me
- The JP aftermarket oilcooler is for engines with 10mm oil galleries. To make them fit the 8mm at old engines, there are special gaskets out there, f.e. the 1824-200 from BBT
- The silicone valvecover gaskets are garbage. I lost a freshly rebuilt and worthy 25 PS engine using these! The hot oil can let them slip away from the correct seat. |
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jbannon Samba Member
Joined: September 19, 2020 Posts: 178
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Posted: Thu Aug 11, 2022 4:13 am Post subject: Re: 1959 Beetle Restoration Project |
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Thanks for the replies.
The rest of the engine tin will be fitted once I have the engine back in my shop. Ill update the photos when it is all done.
As for the oil cooler we tried everything--we were aware of the different size seals depending on engine year, but despite our efforts to ensure we had the correct seals in place, the oil cooler continued to leak. In fact the leakage was "catastrophic" so something was wrong with the oil cooler.
Thanks for the comments regarding the silicone valve cover seals. Very good to know! Like many on the Samba, I am irritated by the quality of new parts--its sometimes just a crap shoot. |
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jbannon Samba Member
Joined: September 19, 2020 Posts: 178
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Posted: Sat Aug 13, 2022 12:31 am Post subject: Re: 1959 Beetle Restoration Project |
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Brakes
I hope everyone is having a good weekend and you are able to get out into the garage / shop to work on your car.
Some house keeping: I have opted to put the vendor and part information at the bottom of each post moving forward. I think this cleans up the posts, but preserves information regarding the vendors and parts I used.
I got a call yesterday from the plating shop that my hardware was finished zincing and could be picked up. Given I am still stuck on the pan (a solution is close... I hope...), I thought I would use the opportunity to prep the brakes. My goal at the moment is to get everything prepped / finished so when the pan and body get back to the shop I can focus solely on reassembly.
This is where I started:
Things were, shall I say, very crusty. After disassembly the parts were inspected and the reusable hardware was sent to the plater (I sent all of the remaining hardware for the car to the plater as well...) Two of the adjusting stars and bolts were shot and replaced, but the remaining hardware looked okay. I also sent the backing plates, front beam, and trailing arms out for sand blasting and powder coating. The rear bearing covers and brake shoe stars / adjusters were ultrasonic cleaned and put in the tumbler overnight to clean them up. I applied a few coats of satin black Jenolite rust preventive paint to the rear bearing covers for protection. I couldn't find Rust-Oleum in Austria and this seemed like a good alternative. During reassembly I used anti-seize on the retaining bolts, and applied a dabble of brake grease to the contact points on the backing plates.
Finally, I had Michael from MMTech inspect the drums given most were original to the car and I wasn't sure if they could be reused--at first glance they looked pretty bad. However, Michael said they were fine and I had him resurface all four drums. I then sandblasted and painted the inside and outside of the drums with Jenolite rust protective paint.
Here are the results:
Front brakes:
Rear brakes:
Rear Brake mocked up with retaining bolts and bearing cover:
The complete set:
Brake drums:
Some keen observers might be asking themselves, what the hell is up with the day-glow-yellow emergency brake shoe bars and emergency brake levers!? When I picked them up from the plater I asked the same thing! I had originally asked the plater to use a yellow chromate finish on these parts and this is what I received. I had expected a slight yellow shimmer and instead got a nuclear explosion of color! Fortunately these parts are not seen and I decided to just go with it! Here is a close up photo:
And finally, I thought I would share a technique for installing the springs I used during assembly that you may find useful. I learned this from the Bug-Me-Videos, which I have found very useful during the restoration. In most videos I have seen on YouTube, people tend to install the shoes into the backing plate, and then use a pair of pliers to attach the larger upper spring to the holes in the shoes. This process is a pain in the ass. Instead of pliers, attach the upper spring to the shoes before installing them into the backing plate. The next step is to take the whole unit and install the upper part of the shoes into the wheel cylinder, and then pull the shoes apart to stretch the spring and install the shoes into the lower adjuster bolts to complete the installation. By using the brake shoes as a form of lever, you can more easily stretch the spring. This is far easier than trying to use a pair of pliers for the bigger, and often, difficult upper spring. I then use a pair of pliers for the lower spring. Here is a picture for reference on how to start the process:
I plan to update this section when I begin to assemble the front beam and rear suspension.
Vendors:
- MMTech
www.mmtech.at
- Zinc Plating
http://www.wittka.at
- Sandblasting and Powder coating
https://www.sandstrahlen-stockerau.at/
Parts:
Wolfsburg West
- Front Brake Spring Kit
https://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=113698002
- Rear Brake Spring Kit
https://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=113698003
- Emergency Brake Pivot Pin
https://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=211609601B
- Emergency Brake Lever Clip
https://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=211609619
- Emergency Brake Push Rod Spring Clip
https://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=113609625
BBT
UPDATE: After discussions with Samba Member pastellgreen, I opted to use LPR wheel cylinders from Kaeferland in Germany. The ATE cylinders from BBT look perfectly fine, but I wanted to use a wheel cylinder that fit better between the brake shoe and wheel cylinder. See the below posts to learn more. I have provided links to the LPR wheel cylinders below
- ATE Front Wheel Cylinder
https://www.bbt4vw.com/en/catalogue/4-under-carria...te-1220-1/
- ATE Rear Wheel Cylinder
https://www.bbt4vw.com/en/catalogue/4-under-carria...te-1220-1/
- Front Brake Shoes
https://www.bbt4vw.com/en/catalogue/4-under-carria...57-07-64-/
- Rear Brake Shoes
https://www.bbt4vw.com/en/catalogue/4-under-carria...57-07-64-/
Kaeferland
- LPR Front Wheel Cylinder 10/57-07/64
https://www.kaeferland-shop.de/en/frame/brakes/whe...10/57-7/64
- LPR Rear Wheel Cylinder 10/57-07/64
https://www.kaeferland-shop.de/en/frame/brakes/whe...10/57-7/64
- Star Adjuster
https://www.kaeferland-shop.de/en/frame/brakes/bra...shoe?c=531
- Start Adjuster Bolt
https://www.kaeferland-shop.de/en/frame/brakes/bra...7/64?c=531
Miscellaneous
- Jenolite Rust Preventive Paint
https://jenolite.com/product-category/paints-coatings/
- Bug-Me-Videos
http://bugmevideo.com
Last edited by jbannon on Mon Aug 22, 2022 12:51 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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jbannon Samba Member
Joined: September 19, 2020 Posts: 178
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Posted: Sat Aug 13, 2022 12:51 am Post subject: Re: 1959 Beetle Restoration Project |
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Door Lock and Window Regulators
I thought I would post a few pictures of the door lock and window regulator restoration to give you an idea of what I did.
Question: Which areas should be lubricated with grease on each regulator?
There wasn't much to this. I ultrasonic cleaned them overnight (they were covered in grease and 63 years of gunk) and then scuffed the metal with a scotch bright pad before painting the arms with Jenolite rust preventive paint. The paint was applied only for protection.
Before cleaning:
Notice how the PO's painted the regulators when they repainted the car. The hot solution in the ultrasonic tank removed the paint!
After cleaning:
After paint:
Parts:
- Jenolite Paint
https://jenolite.com/product-category/paints-coatings/ |
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pastellgreen Samba Member
Joined: January 06, 2012 Posts: 1042 Location: Germany
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Posted: Sat Aug 13, 2022 1:27 am Post subject: Re: 1959 Beetle Restoration Project |
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How happy are you with the ATE wheel brake cylinders?
For my taste, I woudn't use them, as the slot is too wide and the brake shoe can move sidewards. They don't care any longer that there are different slots used for different model years. However, I always prefer to use the cylinders from Käferland. They are made from the Italian factory LPR and are very good. I use them since 15 years without any issue. Also, the slot is as thin as necessary to keep the shoes from moving!
At the end, I work at a parts supplier for our hobby and found that most ATE parts are coming from china now. They also changed the design a bit. We have more claims since. Before, the better ATE stuff came from Italy. I personally believe, LPR made them for ATE... |
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jbannon Samba Member
Joined: September 19, 2020 Posts: 178
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Posted: Sat Aug 13, 2022 12:17 pm Post subject: Re: 1959 Beetle Restoration Project |
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pastellgreen wrote: |
How happy are you with the ATE wheel brake cylinders?
For my taste, I woudn't use them, as the slot is too wide and the brake shoe can move sidewards. They don't care any longer that there are different slots used for different model years. However, I always prefer to use the cylinders from Käferland. They are made from the Italian factory LPR and are very good. I use them since 15 years without any issue. Also, the slot is as thin as necessary to keep the shoes from moving!
At the end, I work at a parts supplier for our hobby and found that most ATE parts are coming from china now. They also changed the design a bit. We have more claims since. Before, the better ATE stuff came from Italy. I personally believe, LPR made them for ATE... |
Thanks for the feedback. I wish you would have told me that a few months ago when I ordered those parts! 😂 I will check the tolerances next time I’m in my shop and let you know what I find. Having brakes that work well is important! |
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jbannon Samba Member
Joined: September 19, 2020 Posts: 178
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Posted: Tue Aug 16, 2022 12:13 am Post subject: Re: 1959 Beetle Restoration Project |
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jbannon wrote: |
pastellgreen wrote: |
How happy are you with the ATE wheel brake cylinders?
For my taste, I woudn't use them, as the slot is too wide and the brake shoe can move sidewards. They don't care any longer that there are different slots used for different model years. However, I always prefer to use the cylinders from Käferland. They are made from the Italian factory LPR and are very good. I use them since 15 years without any issue. Also, the slot is as thin as necessary to keep the shoes from moving!
At the end, I work at a parts supplier for our hobby and found that most ATE parts are coming from china now. They also changed the design a bit. We have more claims since. Before, the better ATE stuff came from Italy. I personally believe, LPR made them for ATE... |
Thanks for the feedback. I wish you would have told me that a few months ago when I ordered those parts! 😂 I will check the tolerances next time I’m in my shop and let you know what I find. Having brakes that work well is important! |
UPDATE: So I checked the clearances. Wow. Just WOW. take a look at that gap. I can’t imagine that would contribute to effective stopping…. Thanks again for calling this out. I’ll be updating my wheel cylinders.
SECOND UPDATE:
I ordered the LPR brake cylinders from Kaeferland in Germany. Below is a photo the brake show clearance inside the cylinder. These are far better in terms of clearance.
Last edited by jbannon on Mon Aug 22, 2022 9:13 am; edited 1 time in total |
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pastellgreen Samba Member
Joined: January 06, 2012 Posts: 1042 Location: Germany
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Posted: Tue Aug 16, 2022 2:48 am Post subject: Re: 1959 Beetle Restoration Project |
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Käferland is the only one selling the good LPR ones. Their contract with LPR is exclusive.
Before installing the brake cylinders to the vehicle, it is recommended to pull the rubbers and grease the cylinders with ATE Bremsenpaste. The cylinders from today are not greased when leaving the factory. Not ATE nor TRW or any other brand.
But when you renew the hole system, it would be now a good point in time to think over, weather it is an idea using silicone brake fluid, so you won't never have any issues even when the car sits for a while. That would require to take the components apart for cleaning them from the conventional brake fluid residues. Then reoiling them with the silicone fluid itself during assembly and then filling up the system with it. |
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jbannon Samba Member
Joined: September 19, 2020 Posts: 178
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Posted: Tue Aug 16, 2022 3:00 am Post subject: Re: 1959 Beetle Restoration Project |
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Thanks again. I ordered new brake cylinders today. I also intend to use silicone brake fluid, and appreciate the additional advice! Any recommendations on a good silicone brake fluid brand? |
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pastellgreen Samba Member
Joined: January 06, 2012 Posts: 1042 Location: Germany
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jbannon Samba Member
Joined: September 19, 2020 Posts: 178
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Posted: Mon Aug 22, 2022 10:24 am Post subject: Re: 1959 Beetle Restoration Project |
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Hella B31/6 Horn Restoration
Thought I would share a few photos of the Hella horn I recently restored. The horn itself was working and only needed cosmetic work. I had the outer part of the horn sandblasted and powder coated, and had the hardware zinc plated. I then used a magic eraser to clean the bakelight case and polished it with acrylic polish. The original gaskets were fine and were reused.
For those looking for a full write up on how to restore these horns check out the post by Samba member OLDveedubs—it’s amazingly thorough!
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=663337&highlight=hella+b31
Here are the before images:
And here are the after images:
Vendors:
- Sandblasting and powder coating
Sandstrahlen-Stockerau (https://www.sandstrahlen-stockerau.at/)
- Zinc plating
Wittka Galvanisierung GesmbH (http://www.wittka.at/)
Equipment:
- Rot Weis Polishing Paste for Acrylic Glass / Plexiglas
- Magic Eraser |
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jbannon Samba Member
Joined: September 19, 2020 Posts: 178
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Posted: Mon Aug 22, 2022 11:56 am Post subject: Re: 1959 Beetle Restoration Project |
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Car Jack
Thought I would show a few photos of the car jack I restored.
Details:
I had the main jack arm sandblasted and powdercoated, but in hindsight I would have sandblasted and then dipped it in a black oxide solution. I think the black oxide will hold up better if the jack is ever used.
I put the rest of the components in the ultrasonic cleaner and then placed them in a tumbler with the green plastic pyramid media to polish for 24 hours. This really cleaned the metal and made the components shine. The spring and retaining clips were sent to the plater with a large pile of other parts that needed plating. I was too lazy to polish those by hand and figured they would hold up better if plated. The main support bar and jack bar were both polished with scotch bright followed my multiple applications of finer and finer sand paper before I finished them off with metal polish.
Finally the base was sandblasted and painted “Bilstein” blue with rattle can paint from a local hardware store. It’s not an exact match but it’s the best I could find given my choices.
Unfortunately I don’t have any before pictures. It’s safe to say that while the jack worked, it looked like it had been under the hood of a car for 62 years. It was functional but rough looking.
Here are the after pictures:
Vendors:
- Sandblasting and powder coating
Sandstrahlen-Stockerau (https://www.sandstrahlen-stockerau.at/)
- Zinc plating
Wittka Galvanisierung GesmbH (http://www.wittka.at/) |
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dave conklin Samba Member
Joined: February 03, 2004 Posts: 40
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Posted: Thu Aug 25, 2022 7:42 pm Post subject: Re: 1959 Beetle Restoration Project |
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I love the attention to detail. Can’t wait to see how this turns out! |
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jbannon Samba Member
Joined: September 19, 2020 Posts: 178
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Posted: Thu Aug 25, 2022 10:46 pm Post subject: Re: 1959 Beetle Restoration Project |
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Thanks Dave! I found a solution for the pan so the rest of the car should start coming together relatively soon. I’ll also post some updates next week on the front suspension given it’s almost done. |
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jbannon Samba Member
Joined: September 19, 2020 Posts: 178
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Posted: Fri Sep 02, 2022 9:30 am Post subject: Re: 1959 Beetle Restoration Project |
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Elvis has left the building
I finally found someone who could help me remove the rear torsion plates / bars, as well as prep and paint the pan. The pan left yesterday and should be back at the end of September.
What a relief! It's funny how these little things can feel like such an accomplishment when one finally finds a solution. I have felt really stuck (pun intended) on trying to figure out how to get the torsion bars removed, and finding someone who can help means the project can now keep moving forward.
Vendors
- Cold Power Clean
https://www.coldpowerclean.at |
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jbannon Samba Member
Joined: September 19, 2020 Posts: 178
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Posted: Fri Sep 02, 2022 10:49 am Post subject: Re: 1959 Beetle Restoration Project |
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Getting things prepped
Despite being stuck on the pan, I have been using my free time to get as much prep work done as possible. My goal has been to get as many things restored/built/painted/assembled/completed/etc. prior to the body and pan being finished.
Front beam
As discussed elsewhere, the car was hit at some point in its life and the front beam was replaced with a post 1960 beam. I opted to keep the later beam given I wanted to use a steering damper and sway bar for better handling. Given I still had the pan I thought I would mount the front beam and assemble as many components as possible so it was ready to go when the pan returned.
The front beam and trailing arms were sand blasted and powder coated. I cleaned and polished the trailing arms to remove any corrosion and ensure they moved smoothly inside the beam.
New needle bearings and torsion leaves from BBT were installed. I also installed new grease nipples, and inspected and cleaned the grub screws and retaining hardware. Only one grub screw needed to be replaced.
I opted to go with a 2.5 inch dropped spindle kit from Limebug in the UK and replaced all the retaining hardware (the kit includes dropped spindles, new king and link pins, and comes ready to install.) I assumed the new torsion leaves would create a 4" gap between the top of the wheel and fender, and felt the dropped spindles would narrow the gap while maintaining the original ride. I also like how the lower profile looks. I plan to run stock rims and hubcaps, and other than the ride height, the car will look stock.
Here is the front end with finished backing plates, new shocks, and front torsion snubs. I also installed new hardware given the old hardware was worn out. You may also notice that I opted to use chromoly link pin spindle clamps instead of the original two nut solution. This was done mainly for convenience. I have new tie rods and a steering damper from BBT, as well as a front sway bar from CSP that I will install when the beam goes back on the pan. I will run the safety wire through the backing plate bolts once I am finished assembling the front end.
Vendors:
- Sandblasting and powder coating
Sandstrahlen-Stockerau (https://www.sandstrahlen-stockerau.at/)
- Zinc plating
Wittka Galvanisierung GesmbH (http://www.wittka.at/)
Parts:
- LimeBug
- Chromoly link pin spindle clamp
https://limebug.com/product/t1-1947-65-beetle-ghia-link-pin-spindle-clamp-nut-aluminium-pair/
-2.5" Dropped spindles
https://limebug.com/product/t1-1947-65-beetle-ghia...-exchange/
-BBT
- Torsion leaves
https://www.bbt4vw.com/en/catalogue/4-under-carria...-kg-07-65/
- Shocks
https://www.bbt4vw.com/en/catalogue/4-under-carria...-2-07-67-/
- Tie Rods
https://www.bbt4vw.com/en/catalogue/4-under-carria...-60-05-68/
https://www.bbt4vw.com/en/catalogue/4-under-carria...-60-05-68/
- Steering damper
https://www.bbt4vw.com/en/catalogue/4-under-carria...t1-03-60-/
- Wolfsburg West
- Torsion arm screw (grub screw)
https://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=111411151
- Front beam mounting hardware kit
https://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=111401000
- Trailing arm hardware kit
https://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=111405100
- Steering damper hardware
https://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=113425020
- West Coast Metric
- Front beam grease seals (German)
https://www.westcoastmetric.com/i-22964056-111-129.html
- Front suspension stops
https://www.westcoastmetric.com/i-22964163-111-273.html
- CSP
- 14mm front sway bar
https://www.csp-shop.com/en/front-axle/front-sway-bar-14mm-411-309-165-14-30443a.html
Last edited by jbannon on Sun Sep 04, 2022 8:28 am; edited 1 time in total |
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jbannon Samba Member
Joined: September 19, 2020 Posts: 178
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Posted: Fri Sep 02, 2022 12:46 pm Post subject: Re: 1959 Beetle Restoration Project |
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Steering Box, steering rod, and shift rod
I thought I would share a few photos of the restored steering box, steering rod, and shift rod. As discussed earlier the steering box was rebuilt with the help of MMTech in July/August 2022. At the time we disassembled everything, clean and degreased the inside and outside of the steering box, as well as inspected the bearings, installed new seals, and painted the steering box case and lid. I recently got several pieces back from the zinc plater which allowed me to assemble many of the remaining pieces. Things are not completely finished but I am close. Here are a few pictures:
This is where I started:
Here is where I ended up:
The lower support bracket and nuts were zinc plated for corrosion protection.
The upper and lower steering flanges were zinc plated. The upper was finished with a black chromate finish to match the steering rod. When I oriiginally disassembled these parts they were incredibly difficult to get apart due to corrosion and wear. I figured zinc plating plus a healthy dose of anti-seize would help them last another 60 years. I used new bolts, steering coupler, and locking plates from Wolfsburg West.
Steering and shift rods
The steering rod was in good shape, but the area where the steering flange connects to the steering rod had a healthy amount of surface rust that I wanted to remove. I ended up using scotch bright to clean the whole rod and then used finer levels of sand paper to get the rod to clean metal. I then applied several coats of Jenolite rust prohibitive semi gloss black paint for protection. You can see the results of the lower part of the steering rod in the picture above.
I also did the same to the shift rod. While the shift rod had no substantive corrosion I figured this would be a good way to protect it.
Here are a few pictures:
Vendors:
- MM Tech
https://mmtech.at/cms/
- Zinc Plating
http://www.wittka.at
Parts:
- Wolfsburg West
- Steering coupling disc
https://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=111415417
- Steering coupler hardware
https://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=111498417
- Lock plates
https://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=111415425
https://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=111415543
https://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=111415159
Miscellaneous:
- Jenolite Rust Preventive Paint
https://jenolite.com/product-category/paints-coatings/ |
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jbannon Samba Member
Joined: September 19, 2020 Posts: 178
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Posted: Sun Sep 04, 2022 12:13 pm Post subject: Re: 1959 Beetle Restoration Project |
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Interior Prep
I thought I would share a few photos of the interior prep as things get done. My seat frames and interior pieces are painted, and I have purchased new original fabric and TMI seat foam. I’ve also found a local upholster who knows VWs and will sew everything together for me. I’m still waiting for some green leatherette samples to to be sent from SMS Fabrics in Oregon, and will pick up those materials up when I am back in the US for work. While I have been able to easily find the original green-gray checkered fabric for the seat and back area, finding a the green leatherette material in Europe that matches the original color and texture has been impossible. I finally ended up sending a small piece of the original leatherette from the back seat to SMS Fabric and they sent me two samples that were very close. I am waiting on a third sample that looks even closer to the original color and then will put my order in.
Here are some photos of the seat frames. The color in the photos doesn’t show up very well, but they are silver beige. I matched the color to my steering wheel which was restored by Koch’s in California.
Below are the shifter and emergency brake handle. I had the shifter base, window holders, and passenger side arm rest base all powder coated satin black.
I still have a few more pieces to paint including the steering column, Neiman steering column lock, and Waso shifter base. I am still looking for a lock smith who can help with removing the lock tumbler from the Neiman lock so I can restore it properly. I also recently found/purchased NOS Neiman metal plates for the steering rod that need to be welded into place. I bought two pairs so if anyone needs the dimensions please let me know. Once all of this is done I’ll have these last few pieces painted.
Vendors:
- Sandblasting and powder coating
Sandstrahlen-Stockerau (https://www.sandstrahlen-stockerau.at/) |
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pastellgreen Samba Member
Joined: January 06, 2012 Posts: 1042 Location: Germany
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Posted: Sun Sep 04, 2022 1:22 pm Post subject: Re: 1959 Beetle Restoration Project |
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The neiman steering lock was added later to the car. I would also consider to restore it to stock condition with ignition cylinder in dashboard and the simple clamp that holds the column tube. That looks more clean. At all cars I once had, where the steering lock had been added later, I removed all that and turned it back to stock. Also: I recommend to put the warning light switch below the dash board, next to the column not into the face of the dash board. It is designed so beautiful, any additional non-stock switch hurts. |
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