Swapping injection pumps in 1.6TD

[ndorian]

Yeah ?Waldo?, I agree about the clear line. I'm thinking splicing the old with 18-24" of clear, would accomplish the same thing.

[ndorian]

My roommate recommends putting the flywheel and pump back to TDC, and then after removing the belt, get the cam back to TDC. Sound right?

[ndorian]

Ok, I think the best thing I can do is set the flywheel to TDC and then go about the T belt/ ip pump removal. I will deal with the timing issue when I put the new pump in.

[?Waldo?]

Your pics of flywheel, pump and cam look fine.

Don't use the cam lock to hold the cam while loosening the cam sprocket. It frequently breaks the end of the cam if you do. Use a sprocket holder instead.

Look through epowell's threads for details on the timing belt procedure.

[ndorian]

Thanks. Yes I am reading through one of epowell's threads right now and it is exactly like you are talking to me. People's willingness to share knowledge and experience is a gift.

So the kit with the timing belt and tensioner also has a water pump. I was going to skip that, but..

The one one the van now looks sad. I don't know if looking sad is grounds for replacement, but in this case I have one coming. I might as well. So I will be bleeding the water and the fuel systems at the same time, when the time comes.

[ndorian]

Right now the allen head bolts on the crank shaft v pulley are not wanting to move. Only supposed to have like 14-17 ft. pnds on them.

[AndyBees]

Yeah, the pipe going back to the tank is basically not under pressure. I suppose a full tank of fuel would result in more pressure than a near empty tank considering the discharge is at near the bottom of tank.

Anyway, that engine doesn't appear to have been in operation anytime recent.

While there, I'd certainly replace the water pump. The intermediate shaft idler wheel will need to come off to remove the Water Pump. Sometimes it will just come off with a pull of the hand and sometimes it can be stuck pretty tight. Just be careful to not break off the shoulders. It appears there's a section already gone. I've ran them that way without any problems. Also, there is a flange on the shaft internal of the engine that can be broken off hammering on the wheel ... I've seen it happen
_________________
'84 Vanagon Tin-top, ALH TDI. 1989 Tin-top
1983 Air-cool, 225k miles, 180k miles mine. Seven trips to Alaska from 1986 thru 2003.

[ndorian]

Thanks for the tips. It was running a month or less ago.

[ndorian]

This is the timing belt FPCeuro sent me. And so it goes.

[?Waldo?]

That's some funny stuff right there.

[old_man]

[old_man]

[ndorian]

Old man, first off thank you for the link for the flange. I just now noticed that you did the thing where "this" is the link. My glasses usually stay a little dirty, I just couldn't see that it was a link. Anyhoot, the water pump is the first pic you linked. So, only half a pump? I'm sending the whole kit back, probably. The timing belt was the right box, but a tiny belt was inside.

[ndorian]

Damn, ok I don't wan't that. I knew it looked like a can of worms. The old one cleans up good.

[old_man]

[ndorian]

I got the belt off yesterday, I couldn't get the sprocket off the old pump so I am getting a puller. I read about different methods of tapping this or that with a brass hammer or a rubber mallet. I got nervous trying to tap/pry it out. I was wondering about the intermediate shaft pulley. AndyBees mentioned it. I had seen it and it didn't worry me too much, but now I am thinking about it . An aftermarket version is $100. It has no shoulders, or sides. Would that bit of missing material make it unbalanced?

[SplitBusVanatic]

This is a brilliant guide for setting the timing.
https://vincewaldon.com/2008/10/01/how-to-set-the-injection-pump-timing/

[ndorian]

Thanks, I've been checking that out. First time jitters is all.

[chrissev2]

[?Waldo?]

I'm not suggesting you shouldn't replace the water pump at the same time, but removing the injection pump has near zero impact on the difficulty of removing the water pump. The water pump is easy to remove without removing the injection pump or disrupting it or the timing belt in any way.

Remove neg cable.
Drain coolant from thermostat flange on bottom of water pump.
Remove alt belt.
Remove alt.
Remove alt bracket.
Remove water pump (with housing).

The only real crossover between the timing belt/injection pump job and the water pump job is removing the accessory belt and pulleys.