44 idf carbs synchronizing last part i cant complete need help

[58ragman]

Hello Samba i got issues and i think I can be helped.

Here is the deal im to the point where i need to connect my linkage.


what ive done

1st disconnect one side of my dual carb linkage

2nd get out my synchs

3rd warm up car

4th add synchrometers and adjust idle to exact specs on both sides

5th reconnect linkage



here is my problem after i reconnect the linkage it still idles a cool 1000 rpms then i hit the throttle and it takes a few seconds up to a minute for the idle to go back down to 1000 rpms from 1150 it does go down back to a cool idle but every one in a while it hoovers like its stuck then adjust.


Ive summed it up as a inkage issue but can seem to get it adjusted where it drops immediately down to 1000 rpms from any rpm.


I originally had the car idle a cool 900 never skipped a beat and always dropped down exactly to 900 rpms but felt it was too low.

reason I upped the idle.

synch is good just this idle glitch


anybody got any ideals how to fix the problem


thanks in advance

[vwracerdave]

Spray some lubricant on all the heim joints and pivot points on your linkage. If that don't help then try an extra return spring on the linkage. Won't hurt to lubricate the pedal to be sure it operates freely.
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[RandyV]

Also.....Is this a cross-bar linkage? Is there just a hair of slop side to side in the cross bar?? If it's too tight that might be holding it up too. An extra spring will help and help identify that part (assuming your throttle shafts/arms are returning back to their stops as they should so you know *they* are not the problem.

Moreso....If it's a cross bar type, pay attention to when the motor is hot vs cold and make sure the bar is never binding. A little slop is ok, imho, though ideally it'd be bearing/smooth hot or cold, but that's usually just not the case.

[74 Thing]

Post a photo

[Paul Jr]

Between step 4 and 5

Did you adjust the crossbar to ensure both carbs open and close at the same rate?

Having it off a bit can cause the issue you describe.

[58ragman]

no did not check the cross bar yet will do that first thing and get a photo thanks guys

[58ragman]

ok guys i got it figured out and it was the crss bar.Had a lot of sideways slop.Here are some pics of my bug 66 sunroof and motor 2276 9.5 to1 with 44 idfs

[evanfrucht]

The throttle cable could be just a little too tight. I've adjusted it too tight before and ended up with a similar problem. Depends also on where the accelerator pedal stop bottoms out, paired with the dual carb linkage it can limit full travel at the carb, hence why having it too tightly adjusted (I'm the quest for full WOT) can prevent a proper return back to idle. Do you have a stock pedal assembly?
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[74 Thing]

FYI-Those ball and socket ends on the cross bar eventually wear out.

Always grab that area and wiggle side to side and front to back.

Once it wears you can either fab something up or buy a new crossbar or you can always go with something like this
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=2390952

[58ragman]

Those look very nice and prolly work even better.Thanks for the heads up on these and the previous info to get me tuned up

[VW&MGman]

I seem to have the same problem with the same set up you have. My cross shaft could move in all directions around the 'ball' that the shaft rotates on.

So I gather if there is any slop in the linkage the idle it will never properly return to it's original settings. Can anyone confirm?

Anyone have any experience with these?

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=2390952


thanks

[58ragman]

apparently everybody is doing this but why not just get a new cross bar its only 40 bucks and there are different ones. ones with white teflon check it out

http://carcraftstore.com/linkagebearingconversionupgrade.aspx

[58ragman]

http://carcraftstore.com/crossbarlinkagebushings.aspx

[74 Thing]

Any slop in that area will cause synch probs throughout.

You can search for crossbar slop or fix threads for ideas on repairs which include the ball bearing or heim joints or using a cut cromoly or bronze bushing drilled and inserted into the crossbar ends to help with the wear

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=371370&highlight=hex+bar+slop

[Ohio Tom]

You seem to be missing this basic step to getting both carbs to open at the same time.

Loosen the jam nuts on one pushrod. One is right hand thread, and the other left.
Now you can spin the rod and make the rod longer/shorter just by spinning the pushrod.

With the motor off, grab the throttle cable and just lift it to a "fast idle" position. Both carbs should lift off the stops at exactly the same moment.

If one leads the other, spin the rod to lengthen/shorten so that they both open in sync. 1/8th of a turn makes a significant change, so go slowly.
Once you have them looking good, lock the jam nuts and re-check.
Sometimes tightening the nuts can throw it off again. So re-check is important step.

So many folks miss this step and it's so important to making dual carbs run smoothly.

Even if things are worn and have slop, doing this will compensate for any slop in the system and allow for smooth operation.

[Paul Jr]

[74 Thing]

Any slop in those ball joints will cause inconsistencies throughout the throttle movement between one side and the other.

Slop in the heim joints as well do not help.

[mikedjames]

I have seen that style of crossbar also have issues where one of the arms was hitting the right hand air cleaner base and pushing the arm and crossbar sideways until the play built up in the crossbar.

It was frustrating the owner as it caused all kinds of popping and balance issues.

The design of the crosbar pivot bearings is pretty crude allowing them to eat into the ends of the bar.
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[58ragman]

[udidwht]

Get both sides as close bye eyeball (cold engine). Then start and warm up engine.

Having the idle speed screw/s too far open can cause the issue you describe as well. Keep them 1/2 turn in from first contact with the lever. It will and should run like a tractor when started.

Then check the sync side-side. Bring hi flow carb down to low flow carb. Keep the idle down low until it's warmed up good. Then LBI each afr screw. Then re-check sync. Once engine is warm set idle at roughly 850rpm or so. Lower is better IMO. Then recheck sync. Then do LBI again.

Once LBI is done recheck sync and rpms. Snail readings should be in the 4-6 range once complete.
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