First start oil question

[1LoWezl]

Just put in new build, cam was broke in and dyno tested and oil drained already by builder. Question is correct way to fill full flow system to check new oil lines for leaks and fill system for start up. Full flow, 2 qrt deep sump, external oil filter and thermo bypass with external cooler/fan. I figure start by filling external filter before install and adding around 4-5qrt to motor, disconnect power to coil, pull coil plug for good measure and crank motor over to fill external lines and build some pressure before starting motor. Do i need to pull spark plugs during this? Am i way off here to start by doing these things? I looked for a thread with info, but came up short. Thank you for suggestions or remarks.
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1963 ragtop
1962 convertible

[Max Welton]

Sounds right to me. Common sense. I do pull the plugs initially to spin the engine for oil pressure. It turns faster that way and there isn't any load on the bearings.

Max
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1967 Type-3 Fastback
Under the Knife https://shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=24&t=151582
Home Stretch https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=767836

[Danwvw]

If it was already cam run then none of that is needed. Just add oil check level and start it. Make sure it builds pressure normally if not shut it down.
Probably will be low on oil because of the extra oil systems so after running a few seconds shut it down and fill oil to the mark again. Run and check it again.
Be sure to use an oil with ZDDP a zinc additive!
If it has a large capacity oil pump it's good to use a fairly lightweight oil ie 5W30 or 0W40 and not rev the engine with cold oil temperatures.
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1960 Beetle And 1679cc DP W-100 & Dual Zeniths!

[1LoWezl]

Was concerned with the lack of oil through out the external system causing issues and being able to check all the new lines for leaks, but again thank you for the responses. Moving forward tomorrow morning
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1963 ragtop
1962 convertible

[Cusser]

[RCP Phx]

You definitely need to pull the plugs. I actually installed a pre-oiler on my 6cyl stroker that I can get +10psi before every start/every day. It also works great as a post-oiler if you run a turbo.

[Zundfolge1432]

[1LoWezl]

Thanx for all the input, much appreciated. Seems common sense normally prevails. After first start the oil pressure is reading around 60-65. I am using zinc additive oil but was told to use 20-50 by builder. I know as oil gets up to temp it will thin, but seems high so I shut motor down after 3-5 min. No nasty revs or throttle romps, just few lifts of rpm and idle. Found 2 small leaks so in those in morning and restart. Should I worry about the high pressure? I’m sure part of it is the heavy oil and the 30mm pump.
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1963 ragtop
1962 convertible

[Max Welton]

Yeah, that heavy oil may be responsible for that.

Max
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1967 Type-3 Fastback
Under the Knife https://shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=24&t=151582
Home Stretch https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=767836

[RandyV]

[Zundfolge1432]

If someone recommended 20w50 to me I’d start watching them more closely because it’s bad advice.

[KEGZ]

[Danwvw]

It depends, on the oil pressure an engine builds with a oil when it's cold. The oil pump is inserted into the end of the cam with a oil pump tang.
When a oil is cold and oil pressures over 100 psi can happen or even worse the oil is too thick to be drawn into the oil pump intake and the oil pressure drops to zero when revved cold because it's a oversized 26mm oil pump or 30mm or more and it can't draw oil up fast enough and cavatates. IN a way it's a worse problem with a deep sump and extra cooler and lines more so because it's really thick and really slow to warm up and if the oil level is low or the pump is oversized or the engine pickup tube leaks or it's an early case with the small pickup or the oil pump intake hole doesn't fit the case hole well. In the worst case scenario the oil pump tang sheers because of the thick oil and being revved cold. Usually the lines blow first!
There may be a place for 20W50 though! Like crossing the desert in 105' heat and prolonged highway driving. Stock oil systems are more tolerant to 20W50.
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1960 Beetle And 1679cc DP W-100 & Dual Zeniths!

[1LoWezl]

While i understand that the heavy oil weight could possibly be a problem for some in cold areas, this is what was recommended by the builder (VR1 20-50) w/ zinc so i choose to use that. They build plenty of high end high hp motors yearly and i took their advice over my own. Right now, cold it runs at 60-65, i did not let it come fully up to temp on idle because i found couple leaks so i shut it down. These need attention in morning, but never in the first start did i OVER rev the motor nor plan on it until it has some miles. I did pull couple of the oil lines between filter and bypass, all had oil. Again, i thank everyone for their opinions and experiences!!! as i have been away from the game for quite some time. 100 ways to skin a pig, like to see those ways and make an educated decision when able to skin it myself. Again, thank you all for your time, thoughts and experiences.
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1963 ragtop
1962 convertible

[Danwvw]

It would be good to monitor both oil temp and oil pressure then.
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1960 Beetle And 1679cc DP W-100 & Dual Zeniths!

[1LoWezl]

So got motor up and running after couple oil leaks which are fixed now. Starts off at 60 psi cold in garage and after warmed up drops to 20 on idle and up to 40 when driving. Only put 3 miles around neighborhood to monitor motor and tranny, seems to be good but a run up valley will tell the tale. Oil temp has only gotten to 170 on gauge, seems cool to me. Haven't even had the external cooler kick in yet, but like i said i need a 30min plus run to really check things out. Thanx again for the comments
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1963 ragtop
1962 convertible