Clutch keeps falling out of adjustment - Ideas?

[k-weaver]

Here is the situation. Car has a daikin clutch disk and a Kennedy stage 1 PP. Car is primarily used for drag racing (nothing to crazy, does 9.15 in the 1/8th) and the occasional cars and coffee on the weekends.

Last season, after a pass down the strip the clutch didn't feel right. It had to much slop in the pedal. Tightened it up, worked good for another pass. Then it happened again. Tightened a second time, then when testing to ensure it was good, the adjuster (wing nut) snapped off. Chewed up the threads on the end of the cable. We quickly ran through the swap meet and found another cable. Swapped it out, and finished the day.

This season, we started to see the same behavior. Got everything adjusted at home, car was working great. Car lost in round 1 eliminations because we couldn't get it in second gear. Back at the pits, clutch is loose again.

So at this point there appears to be a larger issue somewhere. I haven't pulled the motor to inspect anything yet (other projects in the way). But I am curious if anyone has seen this before and can maybe help point me the right direction before I start pulling it apart.

Some details that may be helpful:

The bowden tube is in place. I haven't measured but has probably 1 - 1.5" of bend. The trans (type 1 swing) is solid mounted front/rear. Has mid mount with the poly pads under the horns.

[Brian_e]

I had the exact same parts and the exact same thing happen in my baywindow. I havent pulled it apart yet either.

Then a week ago, another KEP S2 pressure plate, same thing happened in my shorty. Mine made a pop and now the pedal has no feeling. I made it back home without the clutch starting it in gear.

I pulled the engine out, and nothing looks out of the ordinary. Everything from the throw out forward is normal. None of the springs on the pressure plate are visibly broken.

I did test the pressure plate and some others in the press with a valve spring tester like Ohio Tom suggests. The S2 KEP had less PSI than a new AA pressure plate, but the 200psi gauge was right at max. I have a new 500psi tester on the way so I can test them again. I am wondering if the springs in the pressure plate are shot and it won't fully engage the clutch now..

Brian
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[KEGZ]

Did you try a new wing nut with clean threads? I've used a barrel nut to lock my wing nut from backing out in the past.

[mukluk]

Sounds like the clutch cable is stretching or has strands that are breaking. Remove the cable, measure its length, then compare that to the length of a new cable.
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1960 Ragtop w/Semaphores "Inga"

[buguy]

Clutch tube break free in the tunnel maybe?

[modok]

The clutch pedal itself can start to come apart, if it's a late model stamped pedal set.
Has anyone managed to break early forged pedals yet?

[Brian_e]

Both of mine are in buses, and everything all the way back to the throw out bearing is working good.

Brian
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www.type-emotorsports.com

[fastfil]

Clutch tube in tunnel as buguy said... press clutch....pop.....adjust clutch back to normal....press clutch....pop....adjust clutch...

Not a fun repair.
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"...swingaxle...transaxle...same diff."

[sub-hatchtim]

[Brian_e]

[W1K1]

check the clutch height when mounted, I killed a couple of the stage 1, not having the correct mounted height

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=739472&highlight=what+the+clutch

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http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/manuals/jim_martin_engine_build.php

1973 super
1965 squareback 1500E
1971 bay window westy- subi swap

[Alstrup]

Check the pop rivets in the pressure plate
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https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=435993

[Wreck]

Broken welds on the throw out arms ?

[k-weaver]

Wow, thats a ton of good feedback! Let me address a few of the replies...

[Cusser]

The pedal itself could be cracked; happened on both my 1970 and 1971 VWs.
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1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297

[Danny604]

I had a similar issue with my beetle when I first put it together. I mismatched the pressure plate and TO bearing. The pressure plate only had the fingers but no collar for the TO bearing to contact, it wore the end of the fingers and I had to constantly adjust it, until one day it failed.

[RWK]

Frame horns can bend in drag racing, effecting the cable also.
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73 Type 181
63 Type 113
63 Type 261- 428 071
62 Type 241-378 025 178 530

[Chickensoup]

[Slow 1200]

check that the bowden tube is not collapsing internally, it also shows the same symptoms when it happens

[k-weaver]

Just wanted to follow up on this in case its useful to anyone in the future.

The clutch tube was broken off, under the rear seat. Welded this back up, problem persisted.

Pulled the motor and found the throw out bearing clip broke. The bearing was no longer centered on the PP. The PP is now junk, its dented and spring pressure is no longer even (its pulled in on one side).

I suspect the tube is the main culprit and everything else suffered as a result. We probably made matters worse scrambling at the track and tightening it up. In any case, new parts on order and should be back in business this weekend.