The JavaGreen 67

[Erik G]

yeah, car looks good! I would be happy with that

for electrical stuff, this guy has a lot of good info. the type2.com site has good info on replacing the 9 prong box with regular cheap stuff if you don't need the hazards to work. http://www.speedyjim.net/htm/elec.htm

[67rustavenger]

So I have been ordering parts, ACN, WW, and VolksGallery, so far.

The first part that came in is the shift rod bushing. I'll tackle that task tomorrow. That's always good fun.

Other WW parts ordered are replacement door seals, door check rod seals, frunk and engine cover seals, fender beading. Just to mention a few.

ACN goodies are, Trans Rhino mounts, SS HD throttle cable, a better gas cap, and a Fast Fab wing, kinda like a Harred Helper wing. < For the race track!

VolksGallery had a VS Classic shift lever in stock. So I ordered that too. I really like the crisp shifts those deliver.

I shopped for ProCar Ralley highback seats. But the bases are out of stock ATM. I'll get those at a later date.
I like the highbacks for the head support. The last time we had a peashooter race night, my neck was extremely soar after five runs, while wearing a helmet.
Getting old sucks!

More to come!
_________________
I have learned over the years.
Cheap parts are gonna disappoint you.
Buy Once, Cry Once!

There's never enough time to do it right the first time. But there's always enough time to do it thrice.
GFY's Xevin and VW_Jimbo!

[buntist]

Was really bummed to read about your recent happenings, but looking forward to watching this build! Thanks for sharing.

[67rustavenger]

[67rustavenger]

So I changed the shift rod bushing today.

I made this tool, to assist getting the shift rod back into place.

The overall length is 58.5" end to end. At that length, you are left with this much of the tool sticking out of the front of the car,

Perfect.
When I removed the inspection plate. I found this. WTF? That stuff looks/feels like duct seal. The PO must have packed in there in an effort to quiet down the shift rod rattle, caused by the worn out bushing.

Also in the above pic, I used the edge of the inspection hole to hold the shift coupler metal bit, while unscrewing the fastener that holds the coupler together. The screwdriver is pointing to where I had the coupler pressed against the inspection hole.

Here's what's left of the bushing laying in the bottom of the tunnel.

Having finished the shift rod bushing install. I decided to do a three minute task and delete the antenna.
I found a antenna delete plug in the classifieds. These are real hard to find and not in the least bit cheap. When you can find an original.

Some observations. Since today is the first day in a month that it isn't raining/snowing. I had a chance to have a good look at the floor pans from the bottom side. I missed a huge PO hacked repair panel when I made the deal on the car. I'll have to address that when the weather gets better.

The Z bar is missing. Luckily I have another on the parts 67 under the tarp!

The steering wheel is missing the turn signal cancelation bit. Hopefully the aforementioned parts car has that intact.

The dash wiring is a mess. There are so many disconnected wire in the frunk. I really have no idea where to start. It looks like I'm gonna have to spend a few day's with the manual in hand to get that rats nest sorted.

Anyone have a suggestion on how to stop the trunk lid rust?
I thought that I had found a Krylon Hunter Green (52001) color match for JavaGreen. The can cap color is very close. But the sprayed product is way to light for a fake match. The search goes on.

More to come.
_________________
I have learned over the years.
Cheap parts are gonna disappoint you.
Buy Once, Cry Once!

There's never enough time to do it right the first time. But there's always enough time to do it thrice.
GFY's Xevin and VW_Jimbo!

[Chickensoup]

thats what I waa gonna say. remove bad paint. treat the rust with ospho. epoxy. krylon match.

theres a thread somewhere with kyrlon matches to og vw paint codes.

thats what i did on my pearl white 65. turnes out great for a temporary job. makes it easier to look at.
_________________
-'85 c10 5.3 LS, 222 cam, long tubes, x pipe, 3 inch spin tech's
-'05 B5.5 TDI Wagon 17in sport rims ;EGR + BSM + ASV Delete, Stage-2 Tune, straight pipe
'65 Tourist Delivery Build
'66 RIP
'69 RIP
Hosea 4:6 "My people are destroyed for lack of knowledge"

[Rome]

If you can get a decent shine from the rest of the Java green paint on the car and hood, a mismatch/"close-enough" match from a store-bought spray can will look odd. This vendor sells Java: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=2361481
The thread for spray cans which chickensoup is probably referring to is this one:
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0

For treating the heavy rust now on your hood, I'm sure there are numerous descriptions by others on tS. What has worked for me on reviving rusty engine tins to a presentable level was:
-Angle grinder wire brush to knock the worst of the rust off the surface (wear safety goggles and long sleeve sweatshirt)
-80 grit sandpaper by hand (you can use a power oscillating palm sander for your hood's larger surfaces, but that makes noise so do this inside the garage for being considerate of neighborhood) to knock down the rust craters that stand proud of the surrounding surface
-Chemically stabilize the rust using spray-on rust converter spray
-Spray can Rust-O-Leum Rusty Metal Primer
-Wet sand with 220
-Spray can sandable primer/filler to gradually fill the rust pockmarks. 320 wet sand in between the applications (allowing a day for each coat to fully dry). 2 applications were sufficient for me
-Final wet sand with 320 or 400
-Semi-gloss black spray can

An alternate step for the rust stabilizer could be the epoxy primer, or Master Series.

[Big Bill]

I made the same tool for my bushing change. Removing all the extras to get to the bushing was worst part of the job.

[67rustavenger]

Thanks Rome for the suggestions, regarding the paint and dealing with the hood rust.
Now if it would just stop raining. I can get that nasty task out of the way.

Bill, that tool works great! Right?

I forgot to report that the shift lever is much more solid. After the shift rod bushing change.
But I still like the VS Classic lever better than the Hurst. The new VS shift lever will arrive this week.

When I arrived home tonight from work. There was a package on the front porch. Fra.gi.le, was written all over the box. Must be from France!
Inside was a set of Vintage Car VC-5000 LED Headlights!
I found those in the classifieds here for a good price. The PO wanted to keep his car with the Halogen headlight. They were installed in his car. Then removed right away.

I had a few minutes before sundown to day. So I tried a little TR-3 Resin Glaze on the roof of the car. Thanks for posting the TR-3 idea in another thread, Everett.

The underlying paint has some promise.

Now for the dumb question.
I have no idea what the difference is between a internal regulated alternator and an externally regulated alternator look like.
Is this an internally regulated alternator?

The car is wired like it is. But IDk for sure.

Thanks for reading along. More updates to come.
_________________
I have learned over the years.
Cheap parts are gonna disappoint you.
Buy Once, Cry Once!

There's never enough time to do it right the first time. But there's always enough time to do it thrice.
GFY's Xevin and VW_Jimbo!

[60ragtop]

that looks to be an external regulator
internal looks like trhis

_________________
Rick
Certified Mechanic by the State of Michigan in 1977
ASA certified in 1987
Certified Hunter Wheel Alignment Master Technician 1986

[Chickensoup]

yes, thats externally regulated. I prefer internally regulated but if it works it works.

Damn! I wish i could find cars down here that just polish up like that If there isnt any rott.. fix the hood defect and clear coat that bitch.

edit-

You need gas burners...

_________________
-'85 c10 5.3 LS, 222 cam, long tubes, x pipe, 3 inch spin tech's
-'05 B5.5 TDI Wagon 17in sport rims ;EGR + BSM + ASV Delete, Stage-2 Tune, straight pipe
'65 Tourist Delivery Build
'66 RIP
'69 RIP
Hosea 4:6 "My people are destroyed for lack of knowledge"

[Chad M]

[toxicavenger70]

Personally I wouldn't try to match the paint. Clean up the metal and treat it with some rust convertor. Then paint it grey and make it look like the paint faded to the primer.

[67rustavenger]

[67rustavenger]

[67rustavenger]

[Big Bill]

Looking forward to seeing the BRMs on your car they have always been a favorite setup. I think they will look great on the Java Green.

[67rustavenger]

[Big Bill]

Ha ha I always thought you had BRMs on the Blue 67... . The 5 spokes look great too. A friend in town had a 67 in Blue with BRMs and every time I saw it I thought of your car....

[toxicavenger70]