Direct starter to chassis - DIY ground cable strap

[Sodo]

Delete the forward transaxle ground strap and add a 36 inch ground direct from the starter to the chassis.

Easy DIY and less than $20.
And it's better than before, a genuine reliability improvement.

You don't have to measure voltage drops or anything, just make it the best ground path possible..
Bypass all those connections and ensure there's no starter current going thru the transmission bearings, making black stuff on your drain magnet (etc)
Bypass all that with a new, inspectable ground path.
2 AWG cable for $18.99 on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08TV1ZFJX/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_FQWF6EH3WRMGME76BHHR

The negative ground path is commonly neglected (for 30-40 years) because many of the connections are NOT inspectable.
The resistance at each connection is is additive.
It's a likely cause of intermittent starter performance for a LOT of vans.

Remember to validate the positive cable too.

After you've verified both Positive and Negative paths, THEN evaluate your starter for replacement.
It makes no sense to buy a new starter before doing this easy, cheap mod.
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'90 Westy EJ25, 2Peloquins, 3knobs, pressure-oiled GT mainshaft, filtered, cooled gearbox
'87 Tintop w 47k 53k, '12 SmallCar EJ25, cooled filtered gearbox
....KTMs, GasGas, SPOT mtb

[Sodo]

If anyone does this mod on their van, it would be great to see pics installed.
And how you routed the cable, how you tie-wrapped it.

Vanagon no-starts are a big hassle.

This is a good mod, pretty easy DIY, low cost.
It's a low cost professional install too.
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'90 Westy EJ25, 2Peloquins, 3knobs, pressure-oiled GT mainshaft, filtered, cooled gearbox
'87 Tintop w 47k 53k, '12 SmallCar EJ25, cooled filtered gearbox
....KTMs, GasGas, SPOT mtb

[bobhill8]

OK, you got me. Ordered. Will post a photo as well.
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1986 Westy
1971 Squareback

[thatbaldwinlife]

I did this as a preventative measure but grounded from the starter to the chassis with a 12-15" cable and didn't go back to the original spot. I also left the original one in place as I had replaced it 5 years or so ago.
nate
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1987 Westy
Insta: @Thatbaldwinlife
Vanagon Adventure and DIY videos:
That Baldwin Life YouTube Channel

[danfromsyr]

Same here, I do this on all the vans in our fleet
I add a short strap from the starter bolt to the chassis.

*thumb up.

[Phishman068]

I've done this to every bus for years- lower starter bolt to one of the existing "diesel" cradle holes on the frame. On a wbxer, these holes are unused and easily inspectable- just through bolt it with an M8 bolt and nut.
16'' and 18'' cables are what I've used in the past.

You're right, the ground path on these is pretty bad from the factory, and can cause some pretty odd problems!
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http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=559766&highlight=winter+rust
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=482402&highlight=sunroof+syncro
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=569774
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6864936#6864936

"Along with the ability to go fast, one looses the desire to hurry."

[DuncanS]

14"

Duncan

[ndorian]

Thanks for the breakdown of the ground path. I tried this mod but used one of the bolts on the starter itself and melted a copper terminal on the cable. I then learned the right way.

[9.5isCanadian]

Thanks for the Pro Tip.
Seeing as how my motor and trans are sitting on my bench. This seems like a no brainer.


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9 1/2 - missing a few pieces.

1987 Getaway Hightop
1980 Sunroof Vanagon
2018 BMW R Nine T
2012 Golf tdi

[Sodo]

I did the “short cable” on my van too. ---->Transaxle ground strap - is this really the only engine ground?

But realized that drilling a hole etc is a “stopper” for lots of van owners.
And they go on, year after year, worrying about starting problems.
Finally had the idea to make a pic showing super-simple, bolt-to-bolt DIY.

Hope this helps to solve (and diagnose) starter problems.

———————

That cable at the trans front is sort of an insult.
I think its dooming some transaxles.
Its OK when new, becomes detrimental when the van gets old.
Perhaps by design, like the 3rd/4th slider hub, and “lifetime gear oil”, just another achilles heel to retire older vehicles.
My preference is to delete it.
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'90 Westy EJ25, 2Peloquins, 3knobs, pressure-oiled GT mainshaft, filtered, cooled gearbox
'87 Tintop w 47k 53k, '12 SmallCar EJ25, cooled filtered gearbox
....KTMs, GasGas, SPOT mtb

[4Gears4Tires]

I ran my ground strap from the alternator to the syncro gas tank strap. Not sure why I would run it all the way to the driveshaft guards.
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'87 Syncro
Ferric Oxyhydroxide Superleggera Edition

[ALIKA T3]

Mine goes from the Tdi starter on a diesel bellhousing, with a VW studded M8-M12 bolt to one of the M8 bolts at the front of the carrier bar on the passenger side. Short, efficient. Made out of welding cable. These holes are there from factory on every chassis, diesel or not
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Silicone Steering Boots and 930 Cv boots for sale in the classifieds.
Syncro transmission upgrade parts in the Classifieds.
Subaru EJ22+UN1 5 speed transmission
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=416343
Syncro http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4...num+gadget

[jlrftype7]

Lower starter bolt on mine, over and on top of the transaxle assembly, then ends up at the same cleaned and inspected factory hole where the the stock cable was bolted. New ground cable is heavy gauge. I keep the stock cable installed as well.
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'68 Westy- my first VW and vehicle/Bus- long gone.- sold it to a traveling Swiss couple....
'67 Type 3 Fastback, my 2nd car- gone
'69 Semi-Auto Stick Shift Beetle-gone
2017 MINI Coopers, our current DDs
‘84 Tin Top - Hilga....Auto

[dobryan]

[Sodo]

[floodwood]

[Sodo]

[DuncanS]

#2 wire.

[Sodo]

DuncanS both of your pics on this page are "ideal starter grounds."
Short and sweet is good, and you don't have to tie it away from anything.

The 36" cable helps those who want to simply "bolt-on".
And it encourages the feller to delete the OEM strap that adds no possible benefit
'cuz it continues an optional path for starter amperage across the transaxle bearings.
You should never 'add' that optional path, rather, protect FROM it when making changes.
Here's a question for those who leave the front transaxle strap.
Are you gonna clean and maintain the strap connections?
For what purpose would you maintain these connections?
Do you WANT 80 amps departing your gearbox AFTER all those essential bearings and stuff?
If you have come to re-routing the ground path, more logically......
"never again will I risk 80 amps near any of my precious bearings".

Hence the nod towards "delete".
Nothing "earth" shaking here (heh)......just a minor logical improvement.

I'm curious to see how people route the 36" cable.
There could be a very sensible routing thats 100%, no better or worse than the "Short & Sweet + Drill" option.

Other details..... #4 cable could have 8mm holes which you'd have to file it bigger to fit on the 10mm stud.
Whereas 2AWG cable likely has a 3/8 hole which fits the 10mm stud.
I bet the 2AWG is oversized for a gas engine (maybe #1 for a diesel).
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'90 Westy EJ25, 2Peloquins, 3knobs, pressure-oiled GT mainshaft, filtered, cooled gearbox
'87 Tintop w 47k 53k, '12 SmallCar EJ25, cooled filtered gearbox
....KTMs, GasGas, SPOT mtb

[markswagen]

l've been doing this for year, there are holes in the frame, l think where the diesel mounts bolt on, right near the starter, l bolt on to the frame there, to save a long run of copper.
a battery lead out of your local flaps, they have them with a lug at both ends, for those who don't have a big crimping tool.
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markswagen {mobile mechanic} san diego area all early VW's cared for.

619 201 0310