Space Capsule 1995: Repairs, Roadtrips, Retrofits, & Wrenching

[Saturn]

Revising the format of this post to be not be around simply one repair aspect, rather to establish an on-going log
of the maintenance, upkeep, upgrades and other aspects of owning, driving & keeping a 1995 EVC on the road.

Links to previous posts outlining and detailing major work:

1995 EVC Heater Core Replacement:
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=730698

Front Brake and Suspension Work:
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=754772

CV Joints and Boots:
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=757480

Norcold Refrigerator Burner Orifice Replacement:
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=758713

Interior LED Light Fixture Upgrade:
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9760122


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1995 EVC Upgrades: Auxiliary Gauges

On pretty much every car I own, auxiliary gauges have been installed for a better situational awareness of the car as well as the environment. For example, in my 1967 Volvo 123GT, a trio of VDO 52mm gauges were added (oil temperature, oil pressure, and voltmeter) and on my 1970 Volvo 1800E a voltmeter and ambient temperature gauge have been installed. My 1975 Volvo 242 has the same gauges as both of the previously mentioned cars as well as a fuel pressure gauge.

Since picking up my 1995 EVC three years ago, I have been contemplating where and how to install these things into the dashboard of the van. The ones I want to put in are oil pressure, oil temp, ambient temp. Since voltmeters are now integrated into newer USB chargers and even in some removable faceplate stereos, that particular monitor has dropped off the list. Plumbing in an oil pressure sender is pretty straight-forward, getting an oil temp sender installed is something I still need to figure out an optimal way to do.

With the ambient temperature gauge, my goal was being able see the display from the driver seat as well as the main cabin of the van. This led me to search for a digital readout rather than an analog gauge face. Additionally, wanted to see both the temperature inside and outside at the same time. The last stipulation was it needed to be 5 or 12V and not powered by a replaceable battery. These requirements lead me to a couple options and ended up trying this rather inexpensive set up ($15) which also works as an aquarium thermometer. I do not have expectations it will be long-lasting, it is worth to trying it on for size.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WS11X45/

After this arrived, the first thing I did was to hook it up to a 12V power supply for a couple hours to observe the readings from each of the temp sensors. Then switched them around as a secondary check to see if was a significant difference. If they were a couple tenths or a degree or two off from one another, that would not have been a deal breaker for my needs. Mounted the display into a spare dash plastic trim piece scavenged off of an MV found in the boneyard. Cut out a rectangle-shaped hole with Dremel tool, and shaped the opening with a sharp knife to the correct size. Knowing one temp sensor for the outside reading would need to be lengthened, an additional 6-foot length of wire was soldered into place. While I didn’t think adding the extra wire would impact the sensor’s readout, it was turned on for a couple hours to make sure.

Two separate USB charging ports have already been added into the dash. One on the left side of the steering column and the other in with the rocker switches next to the stereo. This was to allow for multiple devices to be charging and not interfering with the shifter or instrument cluster. Like the stereo, I wanted these to be active anytime the key was in the ignition. Using a relay, I was able to tap into the ignition wiring and utilize that to create a secondary power feed for the USB chargers and then the ambient temperature gauge powered by the key switch. The outside sensor (going to the top/red display) was snaked through the firewall and routed down to behind the front bumper near the horns. This spot is meant to give it protection from the sun as well as shield it from radiant heat from the engine/radiator. The interior sensor I ended up mounting just in front of the instrument cluster to see how it worked there.

Took the van for a drive last week to check out the storm-fueled waves at Rockaway Beach in Pacifica and test out the ambient temperature gauge. Driving around, the outside sensor was reading 56-60 degrees, the inside one was displaying high 70s and into the low 80s after the engine warmed up. When driving out of Rockaway Beach, I was stuck at a long light and noticed the outside sensor was slowing climbing into the high 60s. Once I was moving at highway speed the readout began to drop and pretty soon it was back into the mid-high 50s. I noticed this happening again when parking the van in my garage. Letting it idle for a bit outside then slowly backing it inside, The outside temperature sensor was reading in the mid 80s. This was most likely due to the radiator fans being on, will need to figure out if there is a more protective place to mount the outside sensor.

Overall I’m fairly satisfied with the set up. The display where it is situated, the top temp readout is partially obstructed, but not unworkable in any way. The readout can be a bit bright, though that could be solved by a simple gel or tint. Now have to see how it works over time and different seasons.

There are a couple similar threads in the Vanagon forum for reference:
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=752113
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=757669

.

[Joshwa]

Here’s a link to some Eurovan gadgets, some have put in.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=733216&highlight=

One place you can try your temperature sensor is behind the removable panel under the passenger side headlight. There is some air passage between there and the engine bay, so may be similar.
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93 Weekender TDI conversion (AHU)
93 MV TDI conversion (1Z)
Weekender rear cot
Late model cabin air filter on 93
Euro spec bumper install on 93

[sanchius]

Saturn was kind enough to fit a set of aux gauges on my Vanagon when he helped me install the upgraded engine I had just built up.

I find get great comfort from watching the rpm & oil pressure gauges respond together and knowing that I'm getting health oil delivery.

Sorry for the fuzzy instruments, the subject was the clear river that this trail led down to...

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The Syncro years (2005-16) - The 2WD years (2017-23) - Westy & WBX rebuild spreadsheet - Sanchius & Tuna: The Video
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[Saturn]

While working under the EVC last week, I noticed a large drop of coolant on the plastic casing of the auxiliary water pump. The seam between the two housing was wet as well. I am assuming this is not a serviceable part thus a new one has been ordered. While the coolant is drained from the system, plan to remove the metal water pipe (074121065AA) to eliminate the crust and corrosion and repaint it before the pipe springs a leak. Some of the rust and scale can be seen in the second picture up, behind the two hose clamps mounted to the pump. One of the downsides of owning a van which previously lived a couple blocks off of the ocean for almost a decade.

In the mean time, removed the bracket holding the air valve just behind the spherical coolant over flow tank. Was able to take it a friend' shop with a media blaster, that did short work of stripping off the paint and scrubbing away the rust. Primed and painted it then reinstalled back in place, part of an effort around beautification of the engine bay.

[Saturn]

One of the aspects of my Eurovan which I have wanted to improve is the braking capability. Ever since acquiring my van almost three years ago, I have felt the brakes were marginal and could be a whole lot better. The one aspect which I found the most concerning was the tendency for the brake pedal to lose firmness during longer but not hurried stops like cruising into a redlight from 1/4 mile away. Pressing down on the pedal it would occasionally give and sink a little downward, more than a little bit concerning with such a heavy vehicle. While it didn't occur all of the time, I wanted to see if this could be rectified or was it just an attribute of the early brake system. At some point I want to convert it to the later and larger front calipers and rear disc brakes of the VR6 powered vans.

Last summer when I was wrestling (and not always immediately winning) with the front suspension work, a replacement master cylinder was included in the order of shocks, upper & lower, ball joints, tie rods, steering boots and brake pads. With all this front-end work taking a lot longer than expected, the master cylinder replacement ended up being deferred for a little while. A week and a half ago, it was time to address this.

After lifting the van onto jack stands, first step was removed the reservoir off of the MC. It was a little tenacious at first and then finally gave way, while not the cleanest dismount, used a catch container to capture the fluid. Loosened the four brake line connectors (11mm) and unbolted the unit from the booster housing.

Set the new MC onto the studs and tightened them down. The next step was to install the plastic barbs to help bleed the air out (aka bench bleeding). These bleeder parts came with the MC in the same box, they help get a majority of the air out before even touching the calipers. Tried to press the reservoir back in place and it sure put up a fight. Ended up having to remove the MC and it ended up taking 4-5 minutes of pressing, tilting and a bit of swearing to get the reservoir seated into place. Once the MC was secured on the booster put the clear vinyl hoses on the four barbs then pumped the brake pedal about 20 times until bubbles stopped appearing. To see when this happened, I propped my phone up and shot videos since it is an obstructed view into the engine compartment.

One by one the plastic bleeding barbs were replaced out with the brake lines. After getting the first line threaded in, ended up placing paper towels below the MC as a fair amount of fluid leaked out before the line could be sealed up again. Once all of the fittings where snugged up, refilled the reservoir with brake fluid and started the bleeding sequence. Because of the drums, the rear nipples (7mm) can be accessed without having to remove the tires. Wiggled under the back and bled the two rear lines while my friend Alex pumped the brake pedal and periodically refilled the reservoir. Repeated this for the front caliper nipples (11mm), and once satisfied the lines were air free, reinstalled the tires and removed the van off of the jack stands. Took the van for a short spin and the brakes felt firm and steady, a great sign. Now just need to take it for an extended drive to see if the pedal stays in place or still periodically sinks.

[Saturn]

One of the items up for replacement in the Eurovan was the stereo. At least 10 years old it was a good unit when new, now time and technology have made it less desirable. The replacement stereo has bluetooth which was the main reason for an upgrade, though it will likely be superseded by a unit with a video screen and backup camera set up. One of the aspects I appreciate of the stereo's set up is it continues to stay on when the key is in the ignition regardless of its position.

In each of my vehicles, I have added dual port USB chargers into the dashboard and the Eurovan is no exception. When wiring the charger up, I wanted it to operate just like the stereo does anytime the key is in the ignition, the USB charger is on. In looking through the Bentley manual, located the wire which went to the "sensor" in the key/ignition mechanism. On my 1995 EVC this was a orange wire with a red stripe.

The approach I took was to wire up a relay using that wire as the trigger. Simply put, a relay allows a circuit to connected or disconnected when activated/triggered by a secondary source. These are typically used in systems light headlights, fuel pumps, electric windows in cars. The plan was to have power for the USB charger originate from the battery itself. When poking around the engine compartment, decided instead to hook it up to the fuse/breaker coming off the battery and to the auxiliary battery solenoid. As part of the wiring I added an inline 10 amp fuse scavenged from an early 90s Volvo 240 (as was the relay and wiring connector.

Wiring into the relay (numbers next to each of the connectors):
30: Red - Main positive feed from battery
85: Black - Ground wire (hooked into the ground wheel between the fuse box and steering column
86: Green - Trigger wire, tapped into the orange/red wire from ignition
87: Yellow - Power wire to the USB charger

When adding a second dual USB charger port in the dash just next to the headlight switch I just had to tap into the wire coming off the 87 connector and then ground it. If I wanted to run these chargers off the house battery, I could move the connection from the fuse/breaker to the one on the charging solenoid. When installing the inside/outside temperature gauges, just needed to tap into the USB power wire and it too operated continually with the key in the ignition

[mikemtnbike]

Helpful, thanks! My van is missing the blanks next to where you put the thermometer and I am planning to build something that goes there with charging, a thermometer, etc.
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1991 Vanagon GL 2.1 AT Westfauxlia. "Frankie" Totaled https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=764510&highlight=carnage
1995 Eurovan Camper "Marzivan"
2020 GTI SE manual

[Endopotential]

Hey Saturn, you must be a neighbor! I'm pretty sure I've seen your van driving around. I live in Pacifica, so totally recognize Rockaway Beach.

Nice mods BTW

[Saturn]

[Saturn]

It has been just over three years since I picked up my 1995 EVC. While the Eurovan has spent most of its life in California for the better part of a decade it was living less than a 1/2 mile from the Pacific Ocean and that definitely shows. As mentioned in a previous post on this thread, one of the parts I have been wanting to inspect is the metal engine cooling pipe. Since the paint has given way to a fair amount of rust and corrosion, this is one of the parts I felt I needed to remove in order to inspect and either remediate/rehabilitate or replace if in really bad condition. The other incentive for this deep dive into the cooling system is finding droplets of coolant on the auxiliary water pump housing. Loosened the drain plug off the metal pipe and this completed the first step of the process as the catch pan filled with coolant.

As a steady drip fell into the catch pan, undid the clamps on the auxiliary water pump hoses. Each of them put up a bit of a struggle from being secured in the same place for so long. Finally they released their grip resulting in more coolant cascading into the catch pan. The pump was set aside and each one of the hoses on the upper end of the metal pipe were wrestled off. Just like with the water pump, each one of these three hoses required some firm persuasion to be rousted from their resting spots.

One last connector remained, the coolant bypass hose, which due to limited access necessitated the removal of the hose to the thermostat housing. When taking it apart, this is when I inadvertently received small shower on my head as more coolant discharges out of system. The clamps on the bypass hose are still obstructed, so the pipe itself needs to be detached and pivoted to gain access to them. The metal coolant pipe is held in place with two fasteners which also are used to secure the starter to the engine block. While removing the upper hoses, I noticed the upper mounting arm was not actually been secured into place, someone previously working on the van was not as meticulous as they should have been. While inspecting the mounting bolts on the starter, came across a little surprise. The D+ wire/exciter (blue-colored wire) had experienced some sort of adventure as it was only held together by one strand of wire. Something else to be addressed and repaired.

The lower fastener (6mm Allen) proved to be quite contemptuous. After several attempts to loosen it, hit it with some spray lubricant and tried to apply some heat with a propane torch. Because of how it is situated and nearby wiring, could only hit it for a second or two before it started to affect the wiring loom routed behind it. Tried several more attempts to loosen the fastener and began feel the Allen key twisting in the head, starting to round it out. This was quickly escalating and becoming a potential PITA situation. Switched to a set of vice-grips and made several attempts lock onto it and loosen with no success.

After several tries with the vice-grips just slipping and not getting any sort of purchase combined with some salty mutterings, decided to halt operations for a bit and give my brother a call. He recommended tapping/hammering a Torx bit into the fastener head and see if the edges could dig in enough to get it loose. Ended up going working one of my 1960's Volvos for a little while in the meantime. After running a compression test, slid back under the van and once again tried the vice-grip approach. On the fourth attempt, a quiet-ish “crack!” emanates from the fastener signaling something has given. Reposition the vice-grips and they start to slip again, so try the 6mm Allen socket at the same time and the fastener finally begins to turn and can be removed. Now the hose clamps are accessible and several minutes later the coolant pipe is finally extracted out of the engine compartment. This took a total of 3 1/2 hours to get to this point.

The next day I am able to use my friend’s media blaster and it takes 20-25 minutes to remove all of the paint, rust, and scale off the pipe. Inspecting it carefully, the corrosion did not penetrate too far through the surface. This is great news and means not having to acquire a replacement so its onto painting. First, several layers of etching primer are applied to the coolant pipe. Originally, was going to paint it a gloss enamel black, then after finding a spray can of high-temperature engine paint in Mopar orange decide to use that instead. The pipe was covered with the orange paint and let to dry/off-gas overnight. Late in the morning after a couple touch-ups, fire up the oven and heat it for two hours at 250 deg. F to bake the paint on. Now just waiting for several parts to arrive from FCPEuro so I can put all of this back together.

.

[Abscate]

That bolt would have an easy crack with one of the Irwin extractors. Deeply fluted sharp edges with left hand thread bite beautifully into the bolt head.

I’m a real fan
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.ssS!

[jimbomitch]

Yes, agreed, those Irwin extractors work well. So do very small pipe wrenches. An other method is a hand impact driver. Straight jaw vice grips always worked better for me than the curved. At least you got it off

[volkybus]

Well it's nice to see somebody help with these repairs. Here in PR not to much knowledge of repairs is available. So lots of work done is shall we say hit & miss. & Reenginered. (Cobbed)
. When you are the 5 or 6 the owner getting things back to stock or even acceptable is a challenge. + Our vans get rust from the Ocean but also as they are often imported from the NE US We get rust on the bottoms as well
Good luck on your van and details on repairs are very helpful. At the moment my shifter only gets 4 sp forward but w adjustment I get all 5 but not reverse. The Bentley isn't very helpful on showing the average PERSON the way to do it like John Mur did.... Also your Volvos are all right but the newer ones are a nightmare. I had a 98 S70 . Very nice car but I walked home many times and sold it for $600 several years ago.. Interesting it was a a 2.5 liter 5 cyl engine but it was a auto. Carry on Bill

[Saturn]

This weekend it was back under the EVC to reinstall the repainted coolant pipe. My parts order from FCPEuro had finally made its way cross country arriving on Friday. Since the system has been fully drained, and the connections to the thermostat housing had been removed, I wanted to replace the plastic housing and the rubber adapter hose between the coolant pipe where it connects into the block. Since I had so much of the cooling system apart, replacing these parts is a no-brainer decision. Using a deep 10mm socket, both fasteners were removed as was the plastic housing. Extracted out the thermostat so the seal could be replaced as well. The 3" adapter hose finally came off its perch and replaced by a new one from FCPEuro. I really dislike the VW spring steel hose clamps in such tight spaces. Fitted the thermostat and its housing onto the block and tightened down the bolts.

Before installing the cooling pipe, I wanted to undo the 2 other starter bolts as the 3rd one had been so contemptuous. A bit surprised when both of them emitted a small "crack" sound as they loosened after a bit of muscle was applied. Removed the top one entirely as that is where one of the coolant pipe's support arms is secured. Guided one end of the pipe up through the engine compartment and connected the other end to the newly installed adapter hose. When attempting to bolt up the top arm, tried to access this from the top of the engine and from below. While I barely had line of sight from the top, ended up doing it blind from the underside as it provided better access for my hands/fingers. Thought it took multiple attempts, finally was able to thread the bolt in place. As the bolt for the lower arm had been pretty well mangled during the disassembly, I located a suitable replacement and screwed that in place. Slid the new auxiliary water pump into its rubber mount and secured the two hoses into their respective perches.

Reconnected and clamped all four hoses back onto the coolant pipe. Did I mention my dislike of the VW hose clamps? Last steps in the reinstallation involved the final tightening of the two fasteners around the starter as well as the drain plug on the pipe. Reconnected the wiring for the aux. water pump, oil pressure senders, knock sensors and cleaned up a crusty looking ground. Did a visual check on the hoses in general and nothing seemed amiss. The next step would be refilling the system with coolant, but holding off on that for now as the next job will be replacing out the serpentine and timing belts and if I have those removed, it makes sense to change out the water pump at the same time.

[Abscate]

Keeping that beige Volvo rolling “eye roll” should qualify you for Sainthood.

I’m a big P80 fan, run six of them with my ladies. I even convinced a poser out West to stick with it after a deer hit, once.
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.ssS!

[Saturn]

Serpentine, Timing Belt and Water Pump Replacement: Part 1

My EVC came with little maintenance history from the previous owners. The one piece of information I did have was the engine had been replaced back in 2006, so the timing belt was at the 16 year old mark. While working under the engine several months ago, thin white bands could be seen peeking through the serpentine belt outer layer thus signaling it was time for replacement. As I planned to remove, inspect and repaint the metal coolant pipe, it made sense do the belt and water pump replacement in conjunction with the anti-freeze already drained out.

In April, I started the hunt for the crankshaft counter-hold tools and turned out my nephew possessed a set for his 1993 Audi 200 wagon and had those mailed out. The coolant pipe rehab was started and completed in May, next up was the belts and water pump. This was put on the back burner as I needed to prep my 1975 Volvo 242 to drive on the Motherlode Rally in the middle of June. Additionally, found a used volume 1 of the Bentley Manual on eBay and purchased that to have on hand during the work as I already procured Vol 2 when working on replacement of the heater core.

Overview & Insight On This Procedure:

Reference Material:
Thomas EXOVCDS Videos:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_fK8Tdailxs
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h1Wc_mP9Jgk
Robert Bentley Eurovan Service Manual (Vol 1)

Parts: Approx. $300 including tax, shipping etc. (May-July 2022)
(With the pulley/rollers/tensioners, went with OEM or OE units, stayed away from brands like Uro. My total parts outlay is on the higher end of the scale.)

- Continental Serpentine Belt ($18.77 - RockAuto, for AC equipped engines)
- VW Tensioner Pulley x2 ($46.78 - FCPEuro, Non AC vans will only need one of these)
- Gates Belt Drive Idler/Tensioner Pulley ($51.07 - Amazon, forget to order it, needed it ASAP)

- Continental Timing Belt: ($13.82 - RockAuto, 124 tooth version)
- INA Timing Belt Roller ($32.89 - FCPEuro)
- Dansk Tension Roller ($31.49 - FCPEuro)

- GMB Water Pump: ($25.79 - RockAuto)

Tools Used:
6mm Allen Socket
6mm Allen Key
10mm Socket (normal and deep)
13mm Socket
13mm Wrench
19mm Socket
27mm Socket
1/4” Ratchet Wrench
1/4” Extension
3/8” Ratchet Wrench
3/8’ Extension
1/2” Ratchet Wrench
1/2” Breaker bar
Flat Screwdriver
Philips Screwdriver
Pry-bar

Time: This took me about 12 hours in total over the course of a week.

Since this was the first time I have done this procedure on an 2.5L engine, I took my time. Contemplated each step with constant rechecking of the timing marks on the camshaft and crankshaft with it being an interference engine (ACU) as well as taking pictures to have detailed documentation. While underneath the van, undertook a dedicated effort around cleaning grease and grime as well as took the time to repaint the metal timing cover. I forgot to order one pulley, waiting for that to arrive kept a slow pace to the work. Additionally, with a second set of hands and eyes, this would have gone considerably quicker.

 
The Work:
In preparing for this effort, the first thing I did was run a couple searches on TheSamba to find and review relevant posts on the process. While there is information here and there, did not find a definitive write-up covering this procedure, nor any supporting imagery. Watched two videos on YouTube created by Thomas EXOVCDS which are really insightful in covering the steps as well as providing information such as tightening torque values and helpful tips. What I found most disappointing was the Bentley Service Manual and the (lack of) information on its pages. Most of the content is centered around diagrams, while instructional text is sparse and minimal. In contrast, the Bentley manual for my Volvo 240 is so much more detailed and descriptive content-wise. With the research phase competed, it is time to actually get to work on the EVC.

The front right side is lifted up followed by the placement of a jack stand so the tire can be removed allowing access to the belts and pulleys. The round air filter housing is removed then the rubber inlet hose is disconnected from the intake manifold and the hard plastic ducting from the air filter assembly. The smaller air hoses are detached from the inlet hose and when the wiring connector is released, it is set aside. The rest of the air inlet housing is removed from behind the headlight assembly after detaching the vacuum lines. Now there is clear access to the upper timing belt cover and this is removed. Utilizing a 27mm socket, the engine is turned by hand clockwise until the timing mark lines up with the one on the lower timing belt cover. Checking the camshaft sprocket window just below where the oil filler neck mounts to the cylinder head, the engine is rotated around once more and both timing marks are now visible.

A pry-bar is used to pivot the upper rear-most idler puller (drive idler/tensioner pulley aka the ribbed one) forward, providing enough slack on the serpentine belt to slip it off the AC compressor pulley and fully remove it. Around this point, I realize I neglected to order a replacement for the drive idler pulley and fix that situation later in the day. Using a chain vice grip, the power steering pulley is held in place while the three 6mm allen bolts are undone. A 13mm socket is used to remove the two tensioner pulleys from their perches. The four 6mm allen bolts are unbolted from the harmonic balancer (crankshaft pulley.) Secure a breaker bar against the suspension attached to the 27mm socket on the crankshaft bolt. A 19mm socket is fitted on the camshaft bolt and it is quickly loosened, then twisted back on finger-tight to keep it in place. The factory counter hold tool (2084) and bolt removal tool (2079), fitted those into place on the harmonic balancer. Quickly determined, this will be quite a wrestling match and there may be an easier avenue to take. Breaking out my 1/2” DeWalt impact driver, the crankshaft bolt is swiftly rattled off and the harmonic balancer is removed after a little bit of persuasion courtesy of a rubber mallet.

The 13mm water pump bolt and two 10mm timing cover fasteners are taken off and the lower timing belt cover quickly takes it place in the pile of extracted parts. With the timing belt fully exposed, the 13mm nut on the tension roller is undone, it immediately relaxes, causing slack in the timing belt thus signaling the completion of its 16-year deployment. After the belt is removed the crankshaft bolt is removed and like harmonic balancer, it requires some persuasion to be rousted from its roost. The 13mm bolt securing the timing belt roller is removed. The pry-bar is brought into action but the roller does not want to budge. In the mean time, extract out the metal backing plate, the bottom two 10mm bolts securing the water pump are undone freeing it from the engine block in a surprising mini cascade of blue coolant. Get out a razorblade to scrape and clean the water pump mating surface and where the rubber gasket will sit against. There is a second unsuccessful attempt to pry out the timing belt roller, Time for a break and to regroup.

After rewatching the YouTube videos, my friend Alex is mobilized to lend a hand with the contemptuous timing roller. From topside, Alex utilizes a crowbar as I attack from the underneath with the pry-bar. After about 10 minutes of frustrating non-success, I am able to finally feel the roller start to ceed its position. The bolt is reinstalled to buffer any sort of instantaneous release and slowly but surely the timing roller is evicted. Examining the metal backing plate, it is speckled with corrosion and scale which will need to be addressed. A wire brush on a drill makes somewhat quick work of the blemishes and rust. Do not bother to remove all of the paint on the plate, just concentrate on the blighted areas. Clean off the surfaces with acetone and let it sit in the sun for a couple minutes. Hit it first with primer and after that flashes off, apply couple healthy coats of gloss black paint, letting it dry in the bright afternoon sunlight. Take the camshaft sprocket and the harmonic balancer to apply some fresh paint to the timing marks. The same Mopar orange used on the heater pipe is utilized on the camshaft mark while white is the color for the harmonic balancer. With the assistance of some Simple Green, the timing belt covers are given a good cleaning. Now I have finally reached the point where the process is all about reassembly and not removal.

.

[Saturn]

Serpentine, Timing Belt and Water Pump Replacement: Part 2

Install the fresh rubber gasket on the new water pump and secure it into place with the bottom two 10mm bolts. The fresh paint on the backing plate has dried enough to install on the engine and is bolted in. A new timing roller is inserted into its perch and secured (15 ft/lbs.) The camshaft sprocket and tension roller are put into place, their fasteners secured finger-tight, followed by the installation of the new timing belt. With all the elements in place, the lower timing belt cover is positioned and check both timing marks. To my surprise, discover the orange camshaft mark is no longer visible in the metal cover window. Rotate the crankshaft forwards and backwards and still cannot see the orange mark at all. Adjust the harmonic balancer’s timing mark back to 0 then remove it along with the lower cover and slacken the timing belt to remove the crankshaft sprocket. Turns out the sprocket didn’t seat against the woodruff key as that falls to the ground upon removal. Reinstall the sprocket and finger tighten the bolt a second time with no issues. To help with making sure things are positioned correctly, spray some white paint onto a Q-tip and dab that at the 12 o’clock position on the outside of the sprocket for a visual reference. Reinstall the harmonic balancer and when securing the lower cover discover the third water pump bolt cannot gain purchase and be threaded into its appropriate hole. Loosen the two bottom water pump bolts and twist the pump’s housing to finally achieve proper alignment of all three fasteners.

The harmonic balancer is being reused for the time being while I source a new one, found them online listed for $600+, which is quite the pretty penny. Reattach and secure the lower timing belt cover then reinstall the harmonic balancer. Install the four and 6mm allen bolts (15 ft/lbs) grab the Dewalt Impact driver, as it makes quick work tightening down the crankshaft bolt (330 ft/lbs.) A breaker bar is braced against the lower suspension arm and the camshaft bolt is torqued (74 ft/lbs) into place. Recheck the tension on the timing belt and then secure the 13mm tension roller nut (10 ft/lbs) after turning the engine two full rotations. Both timing belts are lined up as expected which completes the timing belt portion of reassembly.

The drive idler tensioner pulley is situated at the back and top of the engine, the placement creates a bit of a challenge to access. Spend about 5 minutes trying to pry the plastic cover off. Here I am greeted with a bit of a surprise when I find a wad of paper balled up and shoved into the cavity. Flattening it out find it is blank parts requisition form. It then stumps me when I am unable to get a 13mm socket to engage the mounting bolt. After multiple attempts, finally figure out its actually a 6mm allen bolt after resorting to using my phone camera with the flash on to see what was in there. Because of the motor mount, there is not real access the retaining nut so I spend a bunch of time going under the motor then returning topside. All-in-all it takes about 30 minutes for me to remove this pulley, a second set of hands would have made this a whole lot easier and faster. The replacement unit gets installed much quicker now I have the process down, tighten this bolt by feel as there is not enough room to fit a torque wrench in there. The lower set of tensioners are installed and their 13mm bolts are torqued (15 ft/lbs) down. The three 6mm allen bolts for the power steering pump pulley are tightened with the same torque value. It takes three times for me to thread the serpentine belt properly around all of the pulleys before I get it correct. Now, a real wrestling match takes place as the belt installation again, this is another place when a second set of hand would have really helped out.

The first run at this is to lever the drive idler forward with the pry-bar then try and persuade the serpentine belt onto the alternator pulley as it was pretty close to fitting over. Attempt this multiple times, but the lack of access prevents maintaining leverage to keep it pinned against the alternator pulley. There is not enough tension to prevent the belt from slipping when hand turning the engine via the crankshaft bolt. After struggling with approach for too long, revise tactics and route the belt around the alternator pulley to utilize the AC pulley as the place to force it on. While this pulley has better overall access, the belt seems like it has to stretch more than when trying this at the alternator. My right hand pins the belt against the pulley at about the 12 o’clock position and my left rotates the engine. On the third or so attempt, I establish purchase against the AC pulley. The belt finally wraps around the perimeter of the pulley while ripping off a good part of my latex glove in the process due to the material getting pinched in the process. As the engine is rotated, nudge the side of the belt over until it is properly seated in the grooves of both the AC and power steering pump pulleys. Huzzah!

Keep turning the engine through two cycles, recheck the top and bottom timing marks, everything looks and seems copacetic. Pour a gallon of coolant into the reservoir and look for leaks. After 20 minutes follow with another 3/4th of a gallon. This is not only confirming the water pump has been seated correctly, it ensures everything has been reinstalled correctly with the metal coolant pipe rehab in May. To my relief, the concrete below the engine continues to remain dry and unblemished. Double check the engine compartment for wayward parts/tools then connect the wiring back into the sensor on the rubber air intake piece. At 4:03pm Sunday, go into the cabin to turn the ignition key all the way to the right.

The engine briefly cranks, catches and settles into a smooth idle much to my relief. The engine doesn’t seize up or produce any sort of expensive noises, just the rush of air being sucked by the intake manifold, and the smooth purr of a content motor. As the engine idles, monitor the camshaft to make sure the timing belt stays steady in place and does not slowly migrate off of the sprocket. Turn on the heater selector to open coolant flow through the heater core. Let the van run for about 10 minutes to get the engine and cooling system up to normal operating temperature. During this initial start up, the only anomaly encountered is the flashing coolant temperature/level light on the instrument cluster. Turn off the engine to let it cool down as part of the burping process of the cooling system. After an hour complete the last steps of reassembly, secure the upper timing belt cover into place, finish reinstalling all of the air intake pieces and plumbing, reconnect the vacuum lines and electrical connections. Underneath the engine things stay dry as a bone, top-up the coolant and restart the engine. This time the coolant temperature warning light remains dark and keep the engine idling until it once again reaches operating temperature. As the radiator fans whir away sort through the tools to get them settled back to their proper home, all the time feeling very content with the successful outcome.

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[mikemtnbike]

Great write up.

Mods this may be the rare post worth adding to Eurovan faqs.
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1991 Vanagon GL 2.1 AT Westfauxlia. "Frankie" Totaled https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=764510&highlight=carnage
1995 Eurovan Camper "Marzivan"
2020 GTI SE manual

[sanchius]

[Saturn]