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Space Capsule 1995: Repairs, Roadtrips, Retrofits, & Wrenching
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bcolins
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 25, 2022 8:28 am    Post subject: Re: Space Capsule 1995: Repairs, Roadtrips, Retrofits, & Wrenching Reply with quote

Wishing I had to replace a slave or master cylinder,.....it would mean I didn't have automatics in my EVs. Crying or Very sad
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eurovanpilot
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 26, 2022 2:14 pm    Post subject: Re: Space Capsule 1995: Repairs, Roadtrips, Retrofits, & Wrenching Reply with quote

So much helpful info and pics!

I saw your engine damper had had some cracking a pieces missing. Gates web site says to replace. I ordered one and was going to change mine when I do the timing belt.
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Saturn
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 28, 2022 12:14 pm    Post subject: Shifter Bushing and Brake Master Cylinder Reply with quote

With a replacement shifter bushing in hand, set upon the task of replacing it. Since this sits just above the slave cylinder, there is not much room to work and maneuver. Because of cooler December ambient temperatures, place the bushing in front of the halogen work light warming it to increase its pliability. After many unsuccessful attempts to install the bushing I decide to undo the shifter ball/clevis for additional room to work. After multiple more tries, I am finally able to get it partially seated. Grabbing a set of small vice-grips, lock the bushing down. By using a long screwdriver and pushing against the side, the bushing finally eases into place. Reattach the ball shifter and clevis then the shifter rod/linkage through the new bushing.

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Focus shifts into the interior of the van with swapping the master cylinder and in this operation, the Bentley manual is consulted before tackling this operation. It looks to be a fairly straight-forward replacement, though I have that same exact thought/outlook several times before on this van and have been incorrect. As with the previous operation, the beginning step is removing the fluid out of the lines with the Mity-vac via the slave cylinder. The output line metal fitting is slowly wiggled back and forth to gently break it free (with a 13mm wrench.) On the outer side of clutch pedal, undo the spring steel clip securing the mounting pin to slide it out of place. The output line to the slave cylinder is fully disconnected at this point. Position some paper towels under it as it produces several drips of brake fluid.

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The master cylinder is secured by two bolts which are visible, but are not accessible with a socket due to interference of the pedal bracket. Utilize an open-end wrench to reach the bolt heads. After both of those are loosened and removed, the MC is pulled to one side. It is still connected to the reservoir line and pull on the body to separate it. After a couple strenuous tugs it come free, although with the plastic junction still imbedded in the hose. This is finally removed with a small screwdriver and a pair of pliers grabbing onto the plastic connector. Attach the new MC to the feed hose, then position it in place to finger start the mounting bolts. Those fasteners are almost fully seated in to position while leaving a bit of wiggle room. This is to make it easier to correctly position the output line fitting onto the MC and is finger-tightened for several turns. The fitting is tightened up and the same is done with the two mounting bolts. Push the mounting pin through the MC arm opening and the pedal then secure it with the spring steel clip on the other side. Refill the fluid reservoir to initiate the process to bleed the system. To help facilitate fluid flow through the lines, the clutch pedal is propped up with a screwdriver. If the pedal is depressed this will block flow through the MC. Once cycling fluid through, there is now some resistance in the clutch pedal and it remains in a raised rather than a relaxed resting position.

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As I am finishing up this up, I receive a text from Alex asking if he can borrow my brake bleeding equipment. He is helping one of our other friends with his 1963 Lincoln Continental. That car has been a garage queen for several years while dealing with a heater core replacement and other assorted work. Heading over there with the brake tools, I join the bleeding effort on this land leviathan. With three people involved, the process goes fairly quickly. Satisfied with the results, the owner starts it up and gingerly backs it out of the garage, the first time in six years. He takes it for a test drive of about 50 yards then brings it back into his garage. After a quick dusting/cleaning we all climb in and take it for a two mile test drive around the neighborhood. Driving back into the garage, what we initially think is moisture from an exhaust leak out turns out to be smoke from a stuck and overheating rear wheel/brake. This is probably the reason for the lackluster uphill acceleration of the Lincoln during the test drive. Leading speculation is the rear brakes lines have swelled up internally and not letting the wheel cylinder release.

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Next: New Shock Absorbers

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Saturn
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 02, 2023 1:51 am    Post subject: Replacing the Front Shocks Reply with quote

While working on extracting out the clutch slave cylinder, the front drivers side shock absorber (Koni) was taken off to allow for more access (21mm for the lower bolt and 18mm for the mounting plate fasteners). Compressing the shock, there was no subsequent rebound at all, signaling they needed to be replaced. Something I had suspected by looking at their condition but now have it confirmed. In researching the options, decide not to replace them with the same Koni’s rather ended up ordering Bilstein B4/Touring shocks for each corner of the van. By the time I completed the work on the clutch Master and Slave cylinders, the Bilsteins had arrived.

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Using an impact wrench, the bolt retaining the shock onto the mounting plate is undone and the shock is put off to the side. Inspecting the mounting plate, it has a mixture of alkali dust, surface corrosion along with grease, grime and other debris. While the bump stop has a couple cracks in it, I elect to retain it and not replace it out just yet. With the policy of removing any of the desert dust from the Eurovan, break out a drill-powered steel wire brush on the mounting plate with to clean it up. Before that happens, take a screwdriver and a steel bristle brush to remove the layer of dirt/grime off of it. Once most of that is scraped off, the wire brush cleans up the plate pretty quickly. A couple squirts of brake cleaner is sprayed onto the plate as a final cleaning. Tape up the rubber bump stop and a layer of primer is applied. With the ambient temperatures in the mid 50s degrees (F), a halogen work light is placed underneath to help cure the primer paint. After about 25-30 minutes of this heat treatment, the mounting plate is sprayed with gloss black enamel paint and again warmed up with the work light. While this paint is being “baked” the passenger side shock goes through the same removal, prep, and painting.

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Let the painted plates sit for almost a week to let them fully cure and dry. Before installing the shock absorbers onto to the plate, the upper side going against the frame are heated up once again with a work light for about 30 minutes so the paint is hopefully dry as possible. The shock is installed with new bushings and do not use an impact gun on the nut. Instead, tighten it by hand with a 17mm wrench and use a 8mm wrench to hold the inside threaded piece in place. The two fasteners for the mounting place are hand threaded and then tightened down by hand. A hydraulic jack is positioned under the brake rotor and lifted upwards slightly to align the holes in the shock with the lower control arm and the swaybar endlink. The bolt is tighten up and this completes installation. The same procedure is done on the passenger side. In looking at the mounting plate after all this is finished, notice multiple chips and nicks in the paint. Seeing this I am not expecting this paint to be very durable as it doesn’t seem to be adhering that strongly.

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During the work on the clutch slave cylinder, encounter another item needing to be addressed. While casually looking down into the engine, notice the wiring for the cold start injector against one of the hoses. Separating the two, one of the wires has lost a rice grain sized patch of insulation exposing the strands of wire by rubbing against the hose. This is quickly, though temporarily resolved with some black electrical tape, at some point will need to a more permanent repair. An example of one of the sayings I have with this Weekender: The more I work on it, the longer the to-do list becomes. In another post a month or so ago, I referred to this as: Sisyphus Syndrome. There is the realization of this is something to be expected when taking on a vehicle with a history of deferred maintenance, there is the obvious work needed which is usually reflected in the purchase price. Then there are the discoveries along the way such as the shifter bushing or the fusebox wiring repairs. While this particular repair is pretty quick and minimal, these additional areas of need/attention continue to be discovered.

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Next: The Seemingly Simple Oil Change

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Saturn
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 06, 2023 10:35 am    Post subject: Re: Space Capsule 1995: Repairs, Roadtrips, Retrofits, & Wrenching Reply with quote

One maintenance item finally getting attention is a long overdue oil and filter change. In the corner of the windshield sits a faded Jiffy Lube oil change reminder sticker from 2018. It is most likely been several years since this van has experienced fresh oil. In preparation, start the engine and let it idle for 4-5 minutes to warm and mix up the oil. Sliding under the engine, attempt to loosen the drain plug with a 17mm box-end wrench and does not budge at all. Scale up to a 1/2” socket & breaker bar, I am still unable to persuade it to turn. Find the hollow handle from my hydraulic jack and leaning over next to the drivers side wheel well, the contemptuous drain plug finally loosens. Rotate the plug several turn and then slightly retighten it. Go back topside to restart the engine and let it idle for several minutes longer until the temp gauge needle start to rise from its resting position. Reposition the catch pan as I start to undo the plug. Soon a cascade of very black oil gushes from the opening and into the container. The flow subsides into a small ribbon, then into a thin string. Putting my hand upward I can still feel a slight warmness radiating from the oil pan. Let the oil continue to drip out for the next 15 minutes and close things up by reinstalling the drain plug.

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Pushing the catch pan off to the side, slide further under the engine to make a slightly startling discovery, something I had not noticed before. Installed on the engine is a quite small white oil filter. Pondering someone’s quite short-sighted decision, my thoughts turn to how I might be able to extract this dainty filter. The strap wrench normally designated for filter removal is too larger for the small circumference of this filter. Next unsuccessful attempt is utilizing a set of adjustable tongs with with opposing teeth. The muffler downpipe provides too much of an obstacle to obtain a decent purchase around the filter. The next tool to be unleashed is a pair of vice-grips which can clamp down around an object such as an oil filter with a length of chain. I initially used these as a teenager when assisting my Dad wrenching and maintaining the family fleet of a pair of VW Rabbits and one large Pontiac Grand Safari station wagon. About three years ago I ordered one of these from Amazon and have had to pull them out several times for stubborn filters. These were removing ancient oil filters off of project cars coming out of hibernation. Because of the downpipes there is minimal space to mount this tool, but after a fair bit of struggling and muttering under my breath, the tool grips and the filter finally begins to rotate counter-clockwise. The old one is emptied out into the catch pan, coat the rubber seal with fresh oil and install the replacement Mahle filter into place. Undo the drain plug again to let as much oil drain out through the several days. Looking up the petite filter to find it is used on 1960s-90s Saab 95, 96, 900, 9000 & Sonetts, Dodge Neons and even Yugos to name a few.

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Next: More Cleaning & Speaker Upgrades

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Saturn
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 14, 2023 6:11 pm    Post subject: Re: Space Capsule 1995: Repairs, Roadtrips, Retrofits, & Wrenching Reply with quote

The dash speakers/tweeters have been an item on the “to replace" list since purchasing the van. This upgrade has previously been done on my 1995 EVC last summer, though on the Weekender the plan is to utilize slightly larger-sized speakers. The PO had initiated several upgrades to the sound system, some more successful than others. Sitting in the dash is an Alpine head unit with bluetooth, so there is not immediate plans to replace it out. Outlined in an earlier post is discovering and replacing the burnt/bare main power wire going from the ignition switch, through the fuse box and into the stereo. A set of 5 1/2” Kicker speaker sit in the front doors which are staying in place. When removing the door card during the replacement of the passenger outside door handle, did note the speaker had been simply and crudely screwed into the plastic around the speaker opening. Install a set of metal spire clips (u-clips) as a more robust mounting set up. Interestingly, when checking the drivers door speakers, found spire clips on three of the four mounting points. On top of the dash remain a set of the OEM Nokia tweeters which are about to be evicted.


On the 1995 EVC, a set of 3.5” speakers were installed after reading a post by EuroTec. (https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=742428) When researching the options of this spot in the dash, I cam across a comment in another posting about 4” speakers potentially fitting into the opening. (https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=658040) In looking into this more, discovered the tweeter opening in the dash is 100mm wide, which is almost 4 inches (3.94” to be exact). Digging up a pair of older but not ancient Pioneer 4” speakers (TS-G1045), test fit them into the dash and they sit in the hole quite well. Looking at the rear label on the speaker, it states: “10cm coaxial 2-way.” Since 10cm = 100mm, these are pretty much made for this location. In preparation of this sound system upgrade, I construct another set of speaker wiring jumpers. (Details on these jumpers is outlined in this post: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9924103#9924103.)

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Because of the speaker cover mounting points and the inner wall/contours, only two ears will be able to secure the speaker in place. A Dremel with a cutting wheel makes quick work on creating two opening on the mounting wall as well as trimming the metal spire clips for correct fitment. Install the spire clips and drill guide holes for the mounting screws. Insert the jumper harness into the original VW speaker connectors, test the sound by turning on the stereo and finish the install with two screws to mount the speaker. Bend one of the unused mounting ears out of the way and now the speaker cover can be locked into place.

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When working on the steering components, started an effort to remove all the crap stuck onto the subframe. After doing the oil change, resume this clean up effort. Accomplish this with a 2” plastic scraper, a nylon brush, a spray bottle of 10:1 water/Simple Green and paper towels. First step involves spraying on the Simple Green mixture then hitting the area with the scraper. Next is wiping it off with the towels then respraying and scrubbing the tenacious spots with the nylon brush. This is repeated many times over until vanquishing all of this crust, grease, grime and alkali dust. Apply this same process on the the bottom parts of the transmission housing, steering rack and oil pan. All-in-all, spent about five hours over several days cleaning these areas underneath the van. While the subframe and other parts are not 100% spotless, I am very happy with the results and how the underside is looking.

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Only one side of the oil pan has been scrubbed/cleaned.
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The Contemptuous Transmission:
Another one of the known issues of this 1993 Weekender, is the inability to stay in 2nd and 4th gear. With the van driving or out of service up on jack stands, when shifting into 2nd gear, the shifter immediate pops back into neutral once you let go of it, every single time. Anyone want to speculate the cause and cost to fix this?


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Scottn59c
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 16, 2023 7:00 am    Post subject: Re: Space Capsule 1995: Repairs, Roadtrips, Retrofits, & Wrenching Reply with quote

Saturn wrote:
Endopotential wrote:
Hey Saturn, you must be a neighbor! I'm pretty sure I've seen your van driving around. I live in Pacifica, so totally recognize Rockaway Beach.

Nice mods BTW


Thank you, adding some 21st century technology into the van one piece at a time.

Driving out to Pacifica is one of my test drive loops from San Francisco. Having to climb the over the ridge is a good test of any engine. Once clearing Skyline on 280 its a pretty majestic view dropping into Pacifica and the ocean. One of the favorite destination is Winters Tavern, both having been on stage and in the audience for bands performing there. Nick's parking lot at Rockaway beach is always a great backdrop for vehicle glamour shots. (One of my non-VW chariots at Nick's parking lot)

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That's awesome - I have the same van you do and used to play semi-regularly at Winters in a band called No Static. We still play around the Coastside, but have not played Winters since pre-pandemic. I got my EVC just a couple of months ago and have been working to nurse it back to health after a period of dormancy. It's a great van for a musician/traveller. I was told by the PO that mine was at Burning Man in the early aughts.

Hope to spot your van in the wild one day! Maybe we'll get to compare notes Smile
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Saturn
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 20, 2023 6:01 pm    Post subject: Battening Down The Hatches: Eurovan vs. The Atmospheric River Reply with quote

Scottn59c wrote:

That's awesome - I have the same van you do and used to play semi-regularly at Winters in a band called No Static. We still play around the Coastside, but have not played Winters since pre-pandemic. I got my EVC just a couple of months ago and have been working to nurse it back to health after a period of dormancy. It's a great van for a musician/traveller. I was told by the PO that mine was at Burning Man in the early aughts.

Hope to spot your van in the wild one day! Maybe we'll get to compare notes Smile


Winters has been one of the more active stages for bands to perform for the last 2.5 years first utilizing their parking lot as an open air venue. The owner SeaJay is quite the personality.

I have attended some of the Vanagon/Bus gatherings down at Ocean Beach. Just this past weekend BurningVan happened there, but didn't end up going to check it out. The T2/T3 events get a healthy turnout, there just isn't the same ownership numbers for the T4 platform.



Battening Down The Hatches

As you are most likely aware, California has been facing some epic rains in the last three-four weeks. While the Weekender has been luxuriating in the workspace, my 1995 EVC has been staying in the driveway of my friend Alex’s house as it is too tall to fit under my garage door. In trade, he is parking a car in one of my garage spots as it does not handle rain very well. Vehicle preparations for this impending onslaught began almost a month ago when the first of these atmospheric rivers was forecast to hit at the end of December.
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Periodically been checking on the EVC while it is roosting in Alex’s driveway. After the Thanksgiving trip the van is parked nose-in for better interior access via the sliding door in case Alex wants to use it as a refuge for any reason. It is a tight fit on the drivers side because of the proximity of the neighbor’s house so entry into the van is easiest through the sliding or passenger door. In the beginning of December I visit the EVC to test out the starter after sitting for a week after the no-start incident. When opening the passenger door, a cup or two worth of water flows onto the ground from the footwell. Prime suspect is the top of the door seal which has started to come undone from a long ago repair by a previous owner. A couple days after Christmas, stop by to visit the van and check the passenger footwell to again find a small bit of water. Rain is forecast for the next day and the first of the atmospheric rivers is due to hit the Bay Area the day after that. Apply blue painters tape as a temporary measure to seal the top of the passenger door as well as the cowl of the van to see if that will stem the tide.
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For context, New Years Eve morning starts out with a complete fury of rain. The ground on the hill above my place is past saturation and begins to subside and create some mini-mudslides. These are swept down with all the moisture creating a torrent overwhelming the curbs and drainage system, kind of like our very own Wonka Chocolate River. (This particular storm is the one causing flooding in the Mission District and made media famous with the footage of people on surfboards paddling around on 14th Street.)
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After the parade of storms finally finished up earlier this week, it is time to check on how the EVC’s improvised seal stood up over the 3 weeks. Find the footwell totally dry, except for an errant drip from door seal during the initial opening. Since its been almost two months since the Eurovan has really moved, figured it was time to take it for a short drive to get it up to temperature and scrape the rust off of the brake rotors.
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Climb into the drivers seat start the van up and here is the discovery at start of the test drive, you win some, you lose some….

Link


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Saturn
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 26, 2023 1:00 pm    Post subject: The Contemptuous Transmission Reply with quote

Saturn wrote:


The Contemptuous Transmission:
Another one of the known issues of this 1993 Weekender, is the inability to stay in 2nd and 4th gear. With the van driving or out of service up on jack stands, when shifting into 2nd gear, the shifter immediate pops back into neutral once you let go of it, every single time. Anyone want to speculate the cause and cost to fix this?


I was hoping a few people would speculate on what might be going with the manual transmission/shifter on my Weekender...


Digging into the Issue

Backstory: When acquiring the 1993 Weekender at the end of last summer, the PO had surmised the transmission was on its way out due to the issues of shifting and not staying in gear. This was something I experienced first-hand during my first drive to my garage space after purchasing it. Putting the gear shifter into second, it immediately popped out reducing the van’s locomotion down to pure momentum. After fighting it for a bit, I ended up driving the rest of the way in 3rd gear, a little challenging on the city’s hills and an Italian tune-up while on Bayshore Freeway (aka US Route 101.) When initially diving into the van, it became apparent there are two separate issues at play, lack of a clutch hydraulic system and the shifter. As detailed in an earlier post, figured out the clutch pedal could pumped several times to “pressurize" the system and enabling shifting. Later when bleeding the hydraulic fluid, this system failed altogether necessitating installation of a new master and slave cylinder.

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The lack of an ability to stay in second gear has been simmering as I continue to work on the Weekender. During the various repair projects, keep an assessment of the various shifter bushings as those are the main suspects behind not staying in gear. The two bushings on the gearshift lever arm (p/n 701711066 #35 in diagram) look to be serviceable. Check these first as I found out the hard way they were in dire need of replacement on my 1995 EVC. Order a new orange bearing shell bushing (191711208a #24) at the very rear of the shifter mechanism as the ends are all torn up. When swapping out the clutch slave cylinder, the two gear selector rod balls (015311544 & 701711131 #41/42) look to be in good condition while the bearing bushing (171711181 #38) is at the end of serviceable life. As work progresses and completes underneath the van, it is time to tackle the orange bushing. Read up in the Bentley manual to find not really any sort of detail on replacing it out, turn to Google with much of the same result.

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From under the van, remove the fasteners on the shifter box though leave one of the bolts to loosely retain it in place. One of the POs added two long screws to keep the shifter boot secured to the floor, head up top to remove those out of the way. Undo the gear shifter from the selector rod to discover only a remnant of one of the two gear stick lower pivot bushings (701711169 #17.) After a couple minutes probing at the bushing housing and scraping through a layer of crusty grime, finally discover how to remove the bottom section. Using a small bladed screwdriver, pry away one ear then repeat on the other side to dislodge this piece. Once that is off, the bearing shell bushing can be slid off the rod. Clean all the gunky build-up and reinstall all of the shifter parts. Post assembly, scrape off the previous life from the gear selector rods and other related parts in the never-ceasing cleaning effort.

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In the meantime, search for lower pivot bushings on Amazon and Ebay to find a long wait time for arrival. Stumble upon a Üro bushing kit for $5.29 (171798211) containing what seem to be the correct pivot bushings, though Amazon’s fitment filter warns this is not meant for a Eurovan. Since it can be delivered in a day and a half, decide to take a chance on them. They fit and work perfectly.

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With all of the shifter bushings inspected and the suspect ones replaced, slide into the drivers seat and go through the gear pattern (with the engine off.) Pulling the lever back, the shifter immediately pops out of 2nd gear and repeats this behavior on every attempt. It goes into 3rd with no problems and in 4th the shifter stays in place but seems/feels tentative about remaining there. Hit the Bentley manual which is not really any assistance or even gives a way to diagnose this situation. Searching on-line forums leads to nothing conclusive as well. Lacking any real guidance or direction, my doubts about the viability of this transmission start to amplify. This problem could stem from some sort of internal issue which will add all sorts of complexity and work to this project. As this continues to swirl around my head, determine as a first step need a second person to shift while inspecting the various components from above and underneath. A couple days later, my friend Alex is able to run the shifting aspect while I observe the gear selector mechanism at the top of the transmission. Nothing seems amiss so it is time to slide under the van. Watch closely as the shift lever moves and the gear selector rods push forward and back. Leaning my head back I notice something and start to laugh. I tell Alex to hold up and it all becomes so clear. Ten seconds later tell him to resume and suddenly hear a “Hey!” from the drivers seat when the shifter remains in second gear.

What I discover is as the shifter is pulled back, the left side of the lever comes in contact with the fuel line coming into the fuel filter. There is a shiny interference mark where this is hitting at the juncture of the rubber line and the crimped piece it transitions into a metal fuel line. The rubber hose yields to the force of lever but the inherent tension exerts enough pressure to shove it forward and out of gear. A similar situation happens in 4th although being at a slightly different position where it contacts. There is not the same pushback strength and it is able to remain in gear unless it is jostled. Grabbing the fuel filter, twist it counter-clockwise about 15-20 deg clearing it as an obstruction. A manufacture date of 2020 stamped on the fuel filter casing and when the shifter is at rest/neutral, it is not an obvious conflict of space between the lever and the filter. When this was changed out by the PO, a hose clamp was utilized in place of the original mounting bracket and they did not realize/check for interference with their fix. Now the shifter feels tight and crisp, need to take it for a test drive for the final judgement and assessment.

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Saturn
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 14, 2023 12:16 am    Post subject: Cleaning and Cooling System Reply with quote

Cleaning The Belly Pan & Trouble Shooting The Coolant System

As I am potentially seeing the light at the end of the tunnel of taking the Weekender off of jack stands and back on the road, attention turns to cleaning the belly pan (aka skid plate.) Decide to take a bit of a different approach with this piece by picking up some engine degreaser to use in combination of the usual Simple Green to dissipate any petroleum products residue/build up. After dousing the pan with both of these cleaners, spend 30 minutes with a 2” scraper and a large nylon bristle brush to dislodge the grease, grime and alkali deposits. There are definitely tenacious areas requiring multiple applications of the cleaners while continuing to chisel away at the barnacle-like pockets of dried petroleum-based material. The final phase cleaning phase involves a pressure washer to uproot and remove the debris. After letting the pan dry off in the sun, coat the rusty areas with some primer and black spray paint as a temporary measure. Since the pan is missing the layer of foam material, have not figured out if I will keep it as is or try and return it to stock. In preparation of remounting the pan, install new rubber mounts/isolators onto the cross member. These are from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07W6NL47J), while smaller diameter than the OEM they should work fine.

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Since acquiring the Weekender, the blinking coolant light is one item I have not been able to vanquish. When starting up the engine the light immediately goes out, though as soon as 20 seconds later this beacon begins to flash. Some of the first work on this van was pulling the instrument cluster to check and resolder the voltage stabilizer connectors. In addition, shorted out the connector to the coolant tank level sender resulting in not quelling the blinking dash light. Head under the engine once again to locate the temp sensor (G2 in wiring diagram) resting in the plastic housing mounted to the block just under #4 spark plug. This is a four-lead sensor as it is also for activating the electric fans. To short the wiring going to the dash light, leads 2 & 3 need to be jumped with a wire. Connect the wire then start the engine, the evil eye blinks immediately and stays on. There is no 20+ second wait for it to kick in. While looking at the plastic housing, notice a small liquid droplet at the intersection of the engine block and housing. Between that and seeing black sealant/gasket material, decide to replace this sensor housing. When initially inspecting the van, one of the “interesting” finds was a generous layer of blue sealant around the sensor sitting in the plastic “T-connector.” In December purchase a replacement from an Ebay seller in Latvia arriving as I begin to go through the cooling system. Order a new plastic sensor housing and figure the thermostat housing should be replace while everything is drained and open.

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After shorting the two coolant sensors and no improvements, focus back on the instrument cluster. Recalling back to the few drives I have done with the van, the temperature gauge never really climbed past much above the cold area and into the middle temperature range. This could be an indicator of a bad voltage stabilizer, which would also trigger the warning light. When revisiting the directions on this site (http://www.1946vw.co.uk/vwbooks/vw_info/t4_gauges.htm) in one of the images, there is a notation on its removal when soldering. Looking back at the pictures of when I reflowed the solder joints in the instrument cluster in September, I neglected to take out the stabilizer. The stabilizer also looks to be the same part as used on the 1981-93 Volvo 240 instrument clusters, locate a parts cluster from 1989 in my collection and harvest the part. Swap the two of those out, mount the gauges onto the circuit board, but leave the lens cover off.

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Left: Eurovan Voltage Stabilizer (date code 1992) Right: Volvo 240 (date code 1989)
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Plug it into the dash wiring, turn the ignition key watching the coolant light. It stays dark while I let the engine idle for several minutes. Turn it off and restart it and again no blinking is to be seen. Let the engine idle for several minutes, watching as the temp needle begins to slowly lift off the bottom peg. Shut everything down to fully reassemble the instrument cluster. Plug it back in and start it back up and let it idle for another 15 minutes. The temp gauge needle resumes its climb upward and I realize this is the highest I have seen the temp gauge reading. As it rises into the mid point at the 10 o’clock position both electric fans roar to life, another system seeing operate for the first time. Run it for a couple minutes more without seeing the blinking return. Two days later, just before starting to drain the coolant out, fire up the engine. Checking the dash and find to my dismay the blinking coolant light has returned. Restart it several times to the same result, then short the level sensor connection which extinguishes it. Perplexing to say the least, though now it is time to drain the coolant out.

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Next: Cooling System Continued

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M-BOB
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 15, 2023 10:06 am    Post subject: Re: Space Capsule 1995: Repairs, Roadtrips, Retrofits, & Wrenching Reply with quote

The flashing coolant light issue can be quite exasperating. I tried and failed numerous times but being hard headed, I finally succeded at fixing it !

In my case I noticed that the printed circuit where the voltage regulator attaches might have been damaged by wether excessive or repeated heat from the device itself or poor welding technique by myself or both.

The cure was to weld a bypass wire from the welding point that seemed the most damaged to the other welding point at the end of the circuit. I also retouched with the iron the cold solder joints that seemed not so good with the help of a magnifiing glass among the 28 pins under the fuel gauge.

I must give the credit to this German person posting on this great site. I used Google to translate it in french for me. Here is an english translation.

https://1-t4--wiki-de.translate.goog/wiki/Spannung...x_tr_enc=1

Here is a picture of my bypass surgery !

Hope this helps.

Keep on wrenching !


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Saturn
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 17, 2023 11:37 am    Post subject: Re: Space Capsule 1995: Repairs, Roadtrips, Retrofits, & Wrenching Reply with quote

M-BOB wrote:
The flashing coolant light issue can be quite exasperating. I tried and failed numerous times but being hard headed, I finally succeded at fixing it ! <<<

>>>
I must give the credit to this German person posting on this great site. I used Google to translate it in french for me. Here is an english translation.

https://1-t4--wiki-de.translate.goog/wiki/Spannung...x_tr_enc=1



I greatly appreciate the information, link and pictures in your post. Thank you for sharing all of that.

In looking at the picture of the circuit board and voltage stabilizer (regulator,) I am thinking about pulling the instrument cluster back up and cleaning up the solder joints I previously reflowed and inspecting the condition of the joints on the main connector on the circuit board.
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M-BOB
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 17, 2023 1:34 pm    Post subject: Re: Space Capsule 1995: Repairs, Roadtrips, Retrofits, & Wrenching Reply with quote

Well, looking at your solder joints, I find that they look pretty good but so did mine before I failed again and finally decided to bypass the circuit.

The tracks on the circuit board are pretty thin and I guess they could be easyly damaged. I also managed to buy fresh solder and flux from an electronic parts supply store and soldering went way better. I used a desoldering braid to clean everything before. I also have a desoldering pump.

Among the 28 joints for the main connector located under the fuel gauge, I reflowed 2 or 3 that seemed loose around the pins when looking with a magnifying glass.

After my repair, we went for a trip to Louisiana at the end of september and the light remained shut. It used to be blinking for the 12 years I own the van, so I was quite happy ! Back home, I went for a camping trip a couple of hours away and on my way back, the god damned light went blinking again. At first I was pretty mad at it but after a few minutes, I think to myself what if... I pulled over, opened the hood and guess what ? Coolant was low because the plastic flange on the cylinder head gave up. I filled with water and managed to drive home. All of this to say that this system can be pretty usefull when it works !

Good luck !
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 17, 2023 9:23 pm    Post subject: Re: Space Capsule 1995: Repairs, Roadtrips, Retrofits, & Wrenching Reply with quote

I've bought a few brand new cross-referenced voltage regulators off eBay. I have also reflowed my regulator, but still regularly (ha) have blinking coolant light and sagging gauges.

Have yet to install one, but if it's successful I'll let you all know how it came out.

I have to do the heater core, so will take this on at the same time....
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Saturn
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2023 1:47 pm    Post subject: Digging Deeper Into The Coolant System Reply with quote

smores wrote:
I've bought a few brand new cross-referenced voltage regulators off eBay. I have also reflowed my regulator, but still regularly (ha) have blinking coolant light and sagging gauges.

Have yet to install one, but if it's successful I'll let you all know how it came out.


According to the T4 Wiki page, the other place to look are the solder joints on the main connector on the instrument cluster circuit board. Something to inspect the next time you have the dash apart.


The Coolant System Continued

Inside the overflow orb sits a pinkish-colored coolant (G13) and since my EVC is now utilizes blue-colored coolant (G11), decide to make blue the coolant of record for the fleet. Now I only need to stock two different types, one for the VWs and the traditional green for the Volvos. In preparation of draining the system, purchase a large plastic bin with a snap lock top as a collection and storage point. Order an additional gallon of full-strength G11 for the eventual refill. Sliding back under the Weekender, locate the 13mm drain plug on the metal coolant pipe and soon a stream pours into the plastic bin. Looking at the flow, it seems more translucent than a solid color and looks more rust-colored than pink. Next hose to be undone is the one coming off the sensor flange between #4 and #5 cylinders releasing another cascade of coolant, a fair amount of which actually makes it into the catch bin. Separate the hoses off the T-shaped connector and let all of these hoses drain into the bin.

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Back up in the engine compartment remove the two lines on the overflow orb and disconnect the level sender connector. Undo the fasteners and fully remove the empty orb. Looking inside a little surprised to find a significant layer of reddish-brown sediment at the bottom have of the overflow container. It is at this point I start to wonder how much of what has come out of the engine is rusty water vs. actually coolant. Putting the orb under a water tap, a great deal of this sediment is flushed out, though a film still remains. Taking some paper towels and a long screwdriver, wipe off the interior surfaces. Spend most of the time (20-30 minutes) cleaning all of the crap and junk in the chamber for the level sensor leads. This involves a fair amount of swishing Simple Green and water through the sensor passages, eventually seeing it become more translucent. As work is concludes for the day, put the lid on catch basin, though I do not feel like cleaning up the small pond spilled coolant under the van.

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Two days later work resumes on the Weekender and when pulling out the catch basin, I notice pretty much all of the spilled coolant has evaporated away. This confirms my suspicions it is mostly composed of water though should test the fluid with a hydrometer. Disconnect the hose on the thermostat hosing and remove off the housing. Now not surprising, find a significant coating of rust on the inside of the plastic housing once the hose comes off. Pluck the thermostat from its seat as there is a replacement to install in its place. Extract out the T-connector and this is being replaced, then dislodge the sealant encrusted sensor. Not sure if the previous mechanic just didn't replace the sensor o-ring or if there was another issues at hand. Inspect all of the rubber hoses and they are OEM VW ones and still in very usable condition so there are no plans to replace any of these. Separate the temp sender flange housing from the block.

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Installing new sensors into the plastic housings and becomes the first hurtle. Getting the original metal spring retainers to seat around the sensors proves a challenge. After multiple attempts I step back and then order a set of the plastic ones. When they arrive, those prove to be contemptuous as well. In either of the housing will the retainers do not allow themselves to be slid into place. Bring out a rubber mallet and end up cracking the neck of the coolant temp sensor housing so I need to order a replacement. This job has become very frustrating to say the least. Clean up the engine mating surfaces on the flange housing and thermostat opening. Install the new thermostat and housing onto the engine so there is a bit of incremental progress. Work subsides until the new plastic housing arrives.

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WestyondaRock
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 04, 2023 7:31 am    Post subject: Re: Space Capsule 1995: Repairs, Roadtrips, Retrofits, & Wrenching Reply with quote

Great and informative thread - thanks for taking the time to document all of this work.

I remember having a similar issue when I was swapping out the temp sensors on my 92 CV. I couldn’t get the plastic clips to snap into place no matter how hard I pressed. Eventually I realized that I was trying to put them in 90 degrees from how they are supposed to fit (ie - I was trying to make them fit in from the North instead of the East). After that they slid right in.

Yours may be a different issue but worth a look.

Cheers!
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 06, 2023 3:09 pm    Post subject: Re: Space Capsule 1995: Repairs, Roadtrips, Retrofits, & Wrenching Reply with quote

WestyondaRock wrote:

I remember having a similar issue when I was swapping out the temp sensors on my 92 CV. I couldn’t get the plastic clips to snap into place no matter how hard I pressed. Eventually I realized that I was trying to put them in 90 degrees from how they are supposed to fit (ie - I was trying to make them fit in from the North instead of the East). After that they slid right in.


Appreciate the tip and in looking back at some of the photos of the housings, I think you may of hit upon the issue I am having with the installation of the retainer clips. I will find out shortly.


Getting Out and About in the EVC

Over the weekend had an opportunity to take the 1995 Eurovan out on a small excursion for the day. While this was not heading out to a camping site, it did involve crossing a bridge and sitting next to the water. In about a month, the band I am in will be heading to Germany to play at a small punk rock festival. We are playing a couple local shows as a warm ups before making the long trip eastward. Solar Van Saturday is a bimonthly music pop-up/event started during the pandemic in Berkeley, CA at a parking area between the San Francisco Bay and I-80. The organizer has a Chevy van containing a battery array to power a couple amps and a PA. The location while next to a major interstate highway, has sweeping views of the SF skyline, Alcatraz, Golden Gate Bridge, Mt Tam. Since we are slated to close the show decided to bring the Eurovan as our “mobile green room.” The weather forecast was for temps in the 40s with gusty winds, once the rains moved on through. Scheduled to start at 12:00, the first band finally started around 1pm when the sun finally broke through. 20 minutes later a squall blew in, though the band performing didn’t waver and continued to play amid this small and brief maelstrom. After that blew by, the skies cleared though a stiff and chilly wind continued for the rest of the afternoon. One band from Santa Cruz certainly braved the elements when they were playing. The Eurovan provided a fine respite from wind between the sets though it was a bit cramped with 5-6 people inside. A little after 4pm we took our turn in front of the van and had a great time at this unique venue.

Waiting for things to dry after the morning rains
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The first band about 5 or minutes before the maelstrom
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The squall approaching from the West
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The extrovert and exothermic band from Santa Cruz
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A T3 showed up for a little while
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The SVS Organizer's band
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The mobile green room
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Helped the organizer pack up after finishing up then cleaned up the Eurovan in preparation to head back to San Francisco with the sun beginning its decent over the Golden Gate Bridge. With everything stowed and situated, get behind the wheel and turn the ignition key to encounter nothing but silence. The dreaded no-start condition first encountered over Thanksgiving has returned, but this time I was prepared. Figuring this stemmed from a bad ignition switch or the starter, a replacement switch had already been ordered and was in the van. Removing the shroud and under-plate around the steering column, this provides access to the ignition wiring. The replacement ignition switch is inserted into the main connector, then using a screwdriver the switch is rotated to the start position. The starter remains silent as the switch is turned/activated several times in a row with the same result. This then points to the starter being the prime suspect. Replace the wiring connector into the back of the ignition and the spare switch returns to the glove compartment. Open the hood and using a piece of wood, tap on the starter housing. Repeat this several times, finally the starter engages and the engine fires up. Jump in the drivers seat to make the drive back as twilight descends. Total time to overcome the non-start condition is 5-7 minutes.

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Return to the van on Sunday afternoon to reinstall the plastic trim pieces in daylight. The starter immediate spins and the engine fires up after sitting overnight. In thinking about the two no-start occurrences, begins to speculate whether this might be temperature-related. Thinking back on the Sonoma experience the Eurovan did start and run for 10-15 seconds about 2 or so hours before it subsequently went on a temporary strike. Along with the spare ignition switch, ordered a new started solenoid though I am not sure if that will fix this issue or a new starter will be required.

With all of the rain landing in California this year the Eurovan continues to take on water. When getting in the van on Saturday morning, estimate around a gallon of water sits in the drivers side footwell. Coming back to it on Sunday after more rain returned during the evening hours. Find there was about a cup of water in the passenger footwell, though the drivers side is dry. While the passenger door will need a new seal, in the meantime apply adhesive to the old seal. In the last month it had separated from the door frame as whatever the PO used to do the same thing had finally failed and the seal was no longer attached along the top. The other water intrusion prevention is applying blue painters tape along the top and forward part of the door in order to see if that when the water is entering from.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 06, 2023 4:30 pm    Post subject: Re: Space Capsule 1995: Repairs, Roadtrips, Retrofits, & Wrenching Reply with quote

F Yeah! Make America Punk Again!!! Though, next time I'm in one of your mosh pits, I'll make sure I'm not holding a full cup 'o beer so I don't end up covered in it (again).

Short of replacing your window seals, you can plump them up by inserting paracord or thin tubing inside the hollow window seal channels.

Should I stay or should I go?
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 07, 2023 6:27 am    Post subject: Re: Space Capsule 1995: Repairs, Roadtrips, Retrofits, & Wrenching Reply with quote

[quote="Saturn"]
WestyondaRock wrote:



With all of the rain landing in California this year the Eurovan continues to take on water. When getting in the van on Saturday morning, estimate around a gallon of water sits in the drivers side footwell. Coming back to it on Sunday after more rain returned during the evening hours. Find there was about a cup of water in the passenger footwell, though the drivers side is dry. While the passenger door will need a new seal, in the meantime apply adhesive to the old seal. In the last month it had separated from the door frame as whatever the PO used to do the same thing had finally failed and the seal was no longer attached along the top. The other water intrusion prevention is applying blue painters tape along the top and forward part of the door in order to see if that when the water is entering from.

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.


First, F yeah to the punk rock stuff, too cool.

Sanchius, you can stay, it's cool, there won't be any trouble.

I couldn't find those top seals you've taped up and re-glued them myself, so far so good. If you find a source, let me know. Ebay, all US vendors, and brickworks came up with nothing, I did not dive in to the other Eurpoean vendors.
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 11, 2023 5:08 pm    Post subject: Re: Space Capsule 1995: Repairs, Roadtrips, Retrofits, & Wrenching Reply with quote

Hey Saturn, I read your description on using a pry bar to release tension on the serpentine belt,.....looked at my belt and tensioner from below and above,....dont see where or how to pry. Could I get a more detailed explanation,.....OR,....could we talk by phone? I will PM you my phone number. Brian in Austin
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