Meet Shadow 1974 Super/113/1303

[78BusGA]

Electrical mystery help please.

OK SO, what it is doing:

With the ignition in the ON position, the turn signal/emergency relay flashes, but ONLY the gauge turn light and the generator light on the gauge, and dimly.

When I had an original tall 3 prong flasher in, it would flash at 2x the speed from when the turn signals or the emergency flashers were on. When I swapped in a new 3 prong flasher which is shorter, it flashes slower than when the turn signals/emergency switch is on.

The turn signals and flasher work normally, and all bulbs are working fine. None of the other lights other than the two in the gauge flash dimly when the turn signals/emergency switch is Off.

With the taller original flasher it would do this when the engine was running too. With the new shorter flasher, it sometimes stops when the engine is running.

The relay isn't putting enough voltage through to light any of the exterior bulbs, and the only low wattage bulbs lighting are the ones in the gauge.

What am I looking for? Is it a bad ground? Bad contact? Is it related to the gauge lights, or something activating the relay at low voltage?
_________________
Few will understand the passion and majesty, among the nuts and grease.

Tom H.

My '74 Super 1303 thread - https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=764902&start=60

My '78 Kombi Bus thread - https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=769385&highlight=

'72 Superbeetle (retired), '78 Bus Kombi 2.0FI, '74 1303 Superbeetle

[78BusGA]

SO the electrical mystery exists, though it is milder. I will make a separate post on that in a day or two.

Brakes on the front are all rebuilt. I also replaced the reservoir and the hoses from it to the master cylinder.

When bleeding the brakes, starting with the front left wheel, how many pedal pumps should it take to get fluid through the system to the wheel? I also tried the Vacuum pump attempt and that only seem to me drawing in air from around the loosened brake bleeder valve. The reservoir has plenty of fluid, hoses new, lines original, reservoir cap off while bleeding. What am I doing wrong?

I have the dash strip wrapped in a brushed aluminum look vinyl. It turned out pretty good. Wrapping the radio panel section look alright. I will do better maybe later when I know more of what I am doing.

I got a spare '73 dashboard to start making my custom dashboard with. I want to put a mk2 Sirocco guage cluster on it in place of the one gauge.

Does anyone have a photo of the type of spring that is needed inside this shifter lock on the two internal plates? I was sent a USED one from Heritage Parts Center and they are taking their sweet time in getting back to me how they are wanting to resolve sendign me a used, incomplete part.
_________________
Few will understand the passion and majesty, among the nuts and grease.

Tom H.

My '74 Super 1303 thread - https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=764902&start=60

My '78 Kombi Bus thread - https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=769385&highlight=

'72 Superbeetle (retired), '78 Bus Kombi 2.0FI, '74 1303 Superbeetle

[78BusGA]

Even though I have been out of the state, I had the chance to visit my father's old workplace ,Palo Alto Speedometer.

Shameless Plug Warning

I popped out my SB gauge and wrapped it up for my carry-on and brought it to him on Monday. Picked it up today. I know the quality of work they do there, because they are Highly respected by a huge portion of the historical automotive community, Harley Davidson and Motorcycle communities, and more. They have done restorations for Concourse de Elegance.

It looks Brand New inside and on the front! New bezel, lens, and speed needle. I love the quality they do, just like my dad did when he had his own shop in San Francisco, and this was just asking for a clean up and calibration, new glass and needle.

Highly recommended when you want a quality job.
_________________
Few will understand the passion and majesty, among the nuts and grease.

Tom H.

My '74 Super 1303 thread - https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=764902&start=60

My '78 Kombi Bus thread - https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=769385&highlight=

'72 Superbeetle (retired), '78 Bus Kombi 2.0FI, '74 1303 Superbeetle

[78BusGA]

When I was running the engine after it sitting a bit, I noticed that the carb, vertical intake throat, and the lateral intake body were Cold to the point where the humidity in the air was condensing on the metal of all three. The heat riser was warming up but I'd not noticed the carb and intake get that cold before. It does run nicely and idles fine. It is still up on jack stands for the brake bleeding.

Is this normal? I don't remember this happening on my '72 ever, with the same set up.

4472
_________________
Few will understand the passion and majesty, among the nuts and grease.

Tom H.

My '74 Super 1303 thread - https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=764902&start=60

My '78 Kombi Bus thread - https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=769385&highlight=

'72 Superbeetle (retired), '78 Bus Kombi 2.0FI, '74 1303 Superbeetle

[78BusGA]

I need to order new/reconditioned heater cores. What suggestions do you all have for the better places to get them?

The electrical tick on the flasher relay went away while the speedometer is out. So that tells me a bit more about where that gremlin might be hiding.

And I am about to take it to a shop to get the brakes bled. I have tried multiple ways to get it bled and it is fighting me.

4640
_________________
Few will understand the passion and majesty, among the nuts and grease.

Tom H.

My '74 Super 1303 thread - https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=764902&start=60

My '78 Kombi Bus thread - https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=769385&highlight=

'72 Superbeetle (retired), '78 Bus Kombi 2.0FI, '74 1303 Superbeetle

[OTTO 1303]

FANTASTIC !!!
_________________
74 Super Sun Bug - OTTO
74 Super - DANZIG
74 Super - HERZOG

[DesignBuild]

Check the free pedal travel. That is the amount you can move the brake pedal before the pushrod hits the inside of the master cylinder piston. Try using MODUL or MOTUL 5.1 synthetic brake fluid. It is synthetic and has a lower viscosity than normal cheap brake fluids. It is great for gravity bleeding. You can get the brake fluid on Amazon.

I have a 1972 1302S from Germany, i.e. built for the German market. So it has factory disc brakes. They squealed like a banshee until I got pads with attached shims. Now they don't make a peep. Try to find the setup that came from Volkswagen. The discs are almost 11 inches in diameter and everything fits properly. You might check to see what the 1974 Rabbits used from front disc brakes. Your front struts I believe are the same as that used in the early Rabbits (Golf). I think you can still get the original ATE calipers or you could use the ones made in Brazil.
See the attached pictures.

[DesignBuild]

That hole in the engine tin is supposed to be there. Do you have the part number for the metal stove that is supposed to be under that hole? If you don't have it I can find it for you. My 1972 Super has that part and I imagine all of the 1970 through 79 Beetles or Super Beetles all have that piece.

I have not had good experiences with Heritage in the UK. Put a want ad on TheSamba for that stove pipe. It is simply an elbow that gets heat from the cylinder on the right rear. I think you would want that heat to keep from icing the inside of your intake manifold.

I will take a picture of mine and post it here tomorrow.

[DesignBuild]

That hole that you want to cover is supposed to have the '' hot air extraction pipe'' under it. It is a metal elbow with a bracket attached that screws to the engine tin and pulls hot air off of #1 cylinder fins. The air is then ducted to the air cleaner air inlet from the bottom. I think the hose needed is 50mm ID, There is supposed to be a rubber boot that seals the edges of the hole to the metal elbow and the duct going to the air cleaner. The part number is 113-129-519G. It is shown in Group 19 and A19 in the 1302 and 1303 microfiche. In the illustrations it is on the bottom of the pages and is #1. When you look at the part list for #1 you will see this description in German, " WARM LUFTENT NAHME ROHR, RECHTS" which translates to "HOT AIR EXTRACTION PIPE, RIGHT". The list is by DIN-PS (engine size & power rating).

This is what you need and there appears to be only one that fits the type 1 engine tins. Because of the location they tend to get very rusty but that doesn't effect their function. I looked the part number up on the internet with the part description and it leads to supplies of that part but many call it a 'stove pipe'. See the following images. There are probably thousands of these thing floating around and most people have no idea what they are or what they are used for.

[DesignBuild]

Here is a link to a shifter lock instructions.
https://empius.com/instructions/99-4352-0.pdf
Part listing for sale but out of stock now. there is info here that you can use to do a search for the instructions to take it apart or install it..
https://vwparts.aircooled.net/Shifter-Lock-Up-to-1967-Type-1-and-3-17-2949-0-p/17-2949-0.htm