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1700 rebuild questions
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Mober
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PostPosted: Wed May 04, 2022 3:17 pm    Post subject: 1700 rebuild questions Reply with quote

little background on my bus: this 1973 has been in my wife's family since 76 (California bus), my father in law sold the bus to his brother something like 89.. right before he sold the bus he had a new motor or rebuilt the old one (he cant remember) his brother drove it locally, but hardly and it has been sitting since 93. My wifes uncle was tinkering with the bus on and off and passed away.

This will be my first vw build and I could really use a good starter punch list of parts before I dive in.

If I am making some assumptions here since it was supposedly rebuilt and its missing the carbs/ linkage. I am also not shy on buying parts because I hate breaking down.

I will need:
motor seal kit including crankshaft/ flywheel seal
Dual Weber 34 ICT Carb Kit
New alternator?
new starter?
Battery
Probably getting away from points, so pertronix set up
all hoses/ fuel lines- anyone know the size and approximate lengths?
spark plugs, FOG
New fuel tank
New fuel sender
New fuel pump
New serp belt
Bearings?

Any input on the parts I have listed or reasons not to replace or parts I am missing?

Regards,

Michael
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SGKent Premium Member
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PostPosted: Wed May 04, 2022 3:47 pm    Post subject: Re: 1700 rebuild questions Reply with quote

Hi Michael and welcome. Before you start and dive in, keep in mind that these are close to 50 year old cars. The parts in many cases are no longer available new, and that the parts which are available are being made on dies that have seen millions of runs. They don't always fit. If you are in California, you might want to find a mentor near you who can help you thru your restoration. There are a lot of pitfalls ahead and $$ to be spent. The machine shops on every corner aren't there any more. I'd suggest avoiding thinking in terms of "new" this and that. New may bring you more problems that a good used part.
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orwell84
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PostPosted: Wed May 04, 2022 6:58 pm    Post subject: Re: 1700 rebuild questions Reply with quote

Books we be a good start. You may already have some of them. There are a couple of restoration books that I found helpful. It can be a long journey. Putting it simply, you will be starting by figuring out what’s still good, what can be reconditioned and what you need to replace. Finding parts may not be difficult, but quality parts can be difficult depending on what you need. There are many decisions you will have to make. It’s a good idea to consider budget, expectations and how you want to use the bus. This is a good place to ask questions.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Wed May 04, 2022 7:35 pm    Post subject: Re: 1700 rebuild questions Reply with quote

A Sabo flywheel seal (rear main seal) is the way to go.
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Mober
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PostPosted: Wed May 04, 2022 9:05 pm    Post subject: Re: 1700 rebuild questions Reply with quote

SGKent wrote:
Hi Michael and welcome. Before you start and dive in, keep in mind that these are close to 50 year old cars. The parts in many cases are no longer available new, and that the parts which are available are being made on dies that have seen millions of runs. They don't always fit. If you are in California, you might want to find a mentor near you who can help you thru your restoration. There are a lot of pitfalls ahead and $$ to be spent. The machine shops on every corner aren't there any more. I'd suggest avoiding thinking in terms of "new" this and that. New may bring you more problems that a good used part.


I have always valued you input, so thank you for your response. Could you give me an idea of the parts you think would be better rebuilding than replacing?
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PostPosted: Wed May 04, 2022 10:42 pm    Post subject: Re: 1700 rebuild questions Reply with quote

First you have a valid reason for rebuilding an engine. Next you take it apart and inspect each piece. When in doubt you ask questions. Then when you have all the new pieces to replace the worn out ones you assemble it. Then you take it apart again because something was wrong, Then you put it back together again. Then 500 miles later you take it apart again because something seems wrong. Eventually, and $5000 later you have it running right. Then the brakes need work. or the suspension needs work and that is more money. Then your wife complains all you ever talk or think about it the VW bus. Then someone asks you what you would sell it for, and you tell them $30K, they laugh at you. You on the other hand don't consider that very funny considering what you have in it in money and time. Does this sound familiar to anyone?
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Jalabert
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PostPosted: Wed May 04, 2022 11:36 pm    Post subject: Re: 1700 rebuild questions Reply with quote

You said you thought this engine had been rebuilt in 93? Does it turn over by hand?

Just trying to think of what the minimum you could get away with if you were really lucky. I guess unless they've been sat in old oil, piston rings, and as many of the rubber bits as you can get to?

If it was rebuilt then, chances are the rebuilder was able to get their hands on better parts than we can get now. I'll be rooting for you when you go exploring..
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PostPosted: Thu May 05, 2022 12:07 am    Post subject: Re: 1700 rebuild questions Reply with quote

SGKent wrote:
First you have a valid reason for rebuilding an engine. Next you take it apart and inspect each piece. When in doubt you ask questions. Then when you have all the new pieces to replace the worn out ones you assemble it. Then you take it apart again because something was wrong, Then you put it back together again. Then 500 miles later you take it apart again because something seems wrong. Eventually, and $5000 later you have it running right. Then the brakes need work. or the suspension needs work and that is more money. Then your wife complains all you ever talk or think about it the VW bus. Then someone asks you what you would sell it for, and you tell them $30K, they laugh at you. You on the other hand don't consider that very funny considering what you have in it in money and time. Does this sound familiar to anyone?


Sounds familiar here.
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PostPosted: Thu May 05, 2022 5:50 am    Post subject: Re: 1700 rebuild questions Reply with quote

Sounds familiar. If you know that history of the engine, you are that much further ahead. It sound like after the engine was rebuilt, it got some use, then ended up sitting for a long time. You don’t mention any catastrophic failures, just neglect. You could start by changing the oil and looking at the condition of the oil in it. You can replace the battery and do a compression test. You can also pull the rocker arms and put a straight edge across the valve tips. They should be even. There may be some other useful checks before dropping the engine, but this is what comes to mind.

What is the condition of the bodywork and sheet metal? Rust repair can be one of the more expensive and time consuming parts of getting a bus going. I would recommend the Haynes restoration manual. It gives a good overview of what often needs replacing on a bus as well as project planning and budgeting. There is nothing more discouraging then pulling a bus to bits and flailing around in a pile of greasy parts.

Good luck
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PostPosted: Thu May 05, 2022 6:22 am    Post subject: Re: 1700 rebuild questions Reply with quote

Think about gathering up a set of PDSIT carbs for your Bus long term. Depending on where you are in CA, you won’t pass an inspection for smog with webers as they don’t have the original emissions equipment.

You are smog check exempt ( pre 1975) but not smog equipment exempt ( pre 1968)
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Mober
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PostPosted: Thu May 05, 2022 9:33 am    Post subject: Re: 1700 rebuild questions Reply with quote

Abscate wrote:
Think about gathering up a set of PDSIT carbs for your Bus long term. Depending on where you are in CA, you won’t pass an inspection for smog with webers as they don’t have the original emissions equipment.

You are smog check exempt ( pre 1975) but not smog equipment exempt ( pre 1968)


thats interesting, I guess I never thought about smog equipment exempt. Does that mean I need to have all the equipment on the motor regardless? But if I do not have to bring it in for a smog ever what is the difference?
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PostPosted: Thu May 05, 2022 9:39 am    Post subject: Re: 1700 rebuild questions Reply with quote

You are supposed to.

I’m a part time CA resident in Laguna Beach , but I’m not an expert on these matters

My opinion is if your car runs well and you aren’t going down the road belching black rich smoke you can run forever.

If you get pulled over for a gross polluter reason , you had better have the right stuff. I am led to believe such enforcement is on the uprise but have no firsthand knowledge of this.

All the parts are out there so it’s a smart strategy to gather them up. They work better than other carbs too
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Mober
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PostPosted: Thu May 05, 2022 10:35 am    Post subject: Re: 1700 rebuild questions Reply with quote

Abscate wrote:
You are supposed to.

I’m a part time CA resident in Laguna Beach , but I’m not an expert on these matters

My opinion is if your car runs well and you aren’t going down the road belching black rich smoke you can run forever.

If you get pulled over for a gross polluter reason , you had better have the right stuff. I am led to believe such enforcement is on the uprise but have no firsthand knowledge of this.

All the parts are out there so it’s a smart strategy to gather them up. They work better than other carbs too


Its California, you're supposed to do alot of things that continually make your life more miserable. (not talking about a small smog device.lol) i'll take my chances with the smog ref. and remove the controls.

I dont have issues with the solexs. I have a partial set that I can get rebuilt by Volks, Would I have any issues getting the correct linkage?
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PostPosted: Thu May 05, 2022 11:02 am    Post subject: Re: 1700 rebuild questions Reply with quote

it is sometimes easier to get the original parts than aftermarket but the hard part is knowing what to get. Each year can be different, and worse how many mechanics before you removed parts.

The smog law issue is complex. Legally any part that affects emissions is required on any car in the USA made after 1967. California had different standards than the other 49 states when these buses were made. California has its own set of laws as well but they follow the Federal laws closely. The Legislature in California passes emissions laws which give the California Air Resources Board the authority to implement those laws. CARB is clear that emission equipment cannot be removed on any car post 1967. However they do not inspect cars older than 1976 so people ignore it. But CARB, and BAR also implement roaming remote sensing stations that monitor vehicles as they drive by looking for gross polluters, and snap photos of the license plates. One year the state Legislature may not appropriate money for that program so no monitoring is done. The next year they may do it in just Southern California. Another year all over the state. Some years they introduce laws that will charge car owners pre-OBDC2 extra fees to offset smog tests but the laws haven't passed. Some years politicians want to test every car and scrap those that fail. One never knows what the state will do with smog. So given the ability to find factory parts, it is wisest to stay as close to stock as possible. Making matters worse the state is pushing electric cars on everyone. That also includes lawnmowers, chainsaws, and generators. pressure washers etc.. At what point will the state start pushing to remove post 1967 cars that are no longer smog legal? My 1977 is totally smog legal and it will always be that way as long as I own it, even if no one tested it. I have no desire to get into a pissing match with CARB at any point in my life. Some states sniff each car 1968 and older but don't do visual inspections to see if all the parts are there. Other states don't care what you do even though technically tampering with emissions on any post 1967 car is illegal in the US.
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PostPosted: Thu May 05, 2022 11:14 am    Post subject: Re: 1700 rebuild questions Reply with quote

I have a complete set of Weber 34 ICT carbs I just took off of my '72 if you are interested. Send me a private message for more information.
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PostPosted: Thu May 05, 2022 1:47 pm    Post subject: Re: 1700 rebuild questions Reply with quote

Would he have to put that horrible smog pump arrangement on that came with ‘73’s.
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PostPosted: Thu May 05, 2022 1:59 pm    Post subject: Re: 1700 rebuild questions Reply with quote

orwell84 wrote:
Would he have to put that horrible smog pump arrangement on that came with ‘73’s.


On paper, in theory, federally, yes.

On planet earth where humans actually live and enforce laws, no.
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PostPosted: Thu May 05, 2022 2:35 pm    Post subject: Re: 1700 rebuild questions Reply with quote

orwell84 wrote:
Would he have to put that horrible smog pump arrangement on that came with ‘73’s.


That's what i'm hearing... can I just leave it on and bypass it?
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PostPosted: Thu May 05, 2022 2:44 pm    Post subject: Re: 1700 rebuild questions Reply with quote

Mober wrote:
orwell84 wrote:
Would he have to put that horrible smog pump arrangement on that came with ‘73’s.


That's what i'm hearing... can I just leave it on and bypass it?


It depends what kind of shape it’s in. On mine, the tubes that thread into the heads were rusted through, so I had to to remove it and plug the holes. I would leave yours in place and disable it. I’m not sure exactly how to do that. I think that system was not used for very long, so it’s absence might not be noticed. It was not a good thing for the engine at all.


Mine are long gone. The PDSIT carbs can be a pain, but mine work quite well having been rebuilt by Tim at Volkzbitz. They were not that hard to set up but I had saved the stock parts for decades.
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PostPosted: Thu May 05, 2022 3:08 pm    Post subject: Re: 1700 rebuild questions Reply with quote

orwell84 wrote:
Mober wrote:
orwell84 wrote:
Would he have to put that horrible smog pump arrangement on that came with ‘73’s.


That's what i'm hearing... can I just leave it on and bypass it?


It depends what kind of shape it’s in. On mine, the tubes that thread into the heads were rusted through, so I had to to remove it and plug the holes. I would leave yours in place and disable it. I’m not sure exactly how to do that. I think that system was not used for very long, so it’s absence might not be noticed. It was not a good thing for the engine at all.


Mine are long gone. The PDSIT carbs can be a pain, but mine work quite well having been rebuilt by Tim at Volkzbitz. They were not that hard to set up but I had saved the stock parts for decades.


This is the route I am thinking since I have the 2 solex carbs sitting around, except for the fact that everything else is missing.
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