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82 Air Cooled engine replacement questions and journal
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steve244
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PostPosted: Tue May 31, 2022 5:57 pm    Post subject: 82 Air Cooled engine replacement questions and journal Reply with quote

Hi, I'm Steve. This is a great site and introduced me to the seller of my van, an 82 Westy air-cooled that I've had for 6 weeks and put 3,500 miles getting it home from LA to Atlanta.

The seller did a great job prepping the van, and I made it through the Sierras and Rockies without drama.

It did use a quart of oil every 400 miles, but has good power. The dipstick blows out and oil sprays from this at times. I think valve guides are worn for compression and power to be good but have blow-by to this extent.

It's a NM, CA van. The thermostat is disconnected and flaps zip-tied open.

Due to the mileage of the van, around 190K I budgeted for a rebuilt engine.

After reading reviews here, contacting a few local builders and not so local, I went with Brothers' VW in Ontario. They had a type IV on the shelf and shipped it to me. It arrived today.

After reading up on cooling I decided to get the thermostat and flaps working:
https://ratwell.com/technical/Thermostats.html

I've also ordered a thermostat bellows, mount, pully from Awesome Powder Coat.
https://www.awesomepowdercoat.com/vw-thermostats

I'm not up to the time of learning and doing a rebuild myself, but swapping the engine seems like a fun couple of weekends.

I'll research before posting questions, but somethings won't occur to me!

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Last edited by steve244 on Fri Jun 03, 2022 7:12 am; edited 1 time in total
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steve244
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PostPosted: Tue May 31, 2022 6:08 pm    Post subject: Re: 82 Air Cooled engine replacement questions and journal Reply with quote

I'm planning on:

  1. New injectors (what's a good source)
    check Mr Injector turn-around for reconditioning.
    3-5 day plus shipping, so about 3 weeks downtime. $18 per injector.
    https://www.mrinjector.us/
    new injectors:
    https://www.busdepot.com/022906031d
  2. Thermostat bellows and linkage
    https://www.awesomepowdercoat.com/vw-thermostats
  3. O2 sensor
    https://www.busdepot.com/11027
    Note: some discussion O2 sensor may not be on non-CA 82 AC.
  4. New fuel pressure regulator
  5. High torque TDI starter using adapter plate (bus depot?)
    https://www.busdepot.com/sr0408xor
  6. All new gas lines.
    "Gates 4219BF Barricade fuel injection line"
    -or-
    this kit from westy: all lines, gromets, clamps
    https://gowesty.com/products/engine-fuel-line-replacement-kit-1?variant=41253303156901
    tank reseal kit
    https://gowesty.com/products/fuel-tank-re-seal-kit?variant=41253218680997
  7. Fuel pump has been replaced, but noisy, I'll probably swap this for a bosch. Any recommendations?
    try replacing filter first (go with post pump filter and remove crappy pre-pump filter)
    https://www.busdepot.com/71028
  8. Replace clutch and throwout bearing.
    https://gowesty.com/products/complete-clutch-kit?_pos=16&_sid=b39eaceef&_ss=r
    https://gowesty.com/products/clutch-throwout-bearing?_pos=3&_sid=b39eaceef&_ss=r
    Better(?) LUK clutch kit includes pilot and throwout bearings
    https://www.busdepot.com/028141999
  9. check all hydraulics
  10. rear end bushings/shocks
  11. heater box control cables
    left
    https://www.busdepot.com/251711629
    right
    https://www.busdepot.com/251711630
    heater cable boots (2)
    https://www.busdepot.com/j10970
    heater cable nuts (2)
    https://www.busdepot.com/311129777
  12. head temp sensor and gauge
    https://www2.cip1.com/c10-310-901-t2/
  13. FI engine temp sensor?
    https://www.busdepot.com/0280130012
    See discussion about this sensor and mounting location here:
    https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9875688#9875688
  14. New transmission/engine mounts
    https://gowesty.com/products/2wd-transaxle-mount?_pos=6&_sid=d97746a95&_ss=r
    there are separate engine mounts? yes! inner and outer. two each.
    https://www.busdepot.com/070199231
    https://www.busdepot.com/070199231a
  15. inspect CV joints and boots.
  16. new plug wires with tin seal grommets
    wires (looks like they have grommets)
    https://www.busdepot.com/021998031a
    grommets:
    https://www.busdepot.com/111905449a
  17. new distributor (points or electronic)?
    https://www.busdepot.com/022905205s
  18. Fan guard!
    https://www.busdepot.com/j10983
  19. oil cooler (if needed). Note available shroud and oil seals.
    https://www.busdepot.com/021117021bmy
  20. Intake manifold boots
    https://www.busdepot.com/039133241
  21. air filter
    https://www.busdepot.com/021129620
  22. engine compartment surround
    https://gowesty.com/products/engine-compartment-surround
  23. Alternator
    https://www.busdepot.com/al114xor
    $120+$65core
  24. voltage regulator (battery is newish).
    internal (back) of alternator. included in rebuilt BD alt.
    NOTE voltage regulator also includes brushes. This may be economical and better than a rebuilt alternator.
    https://www.busdepot.com/1197311028

Yup I've got my trusty Bentley manual and have been reading it as a night-time story to my kids. (not really, they're all grown).

What else? I'll add suggestions to this post as they come in.

discussion on electrical terminals and link to tools.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=769338&sid=c9d00b531f54748ed3cb617b6d2db8d6

Odometer fix (yes, mine is borked).
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=674393

Starter bushing:
MarkWard wrote:
Manual or Automatic? The manual has a starter bushing pressed into the bellhousing. It supports the armature square. It should be replaced when the starter is. That might affect the hot cranking.


discussion on vintage speed exhaust:
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=764997&start=60

discussion about fuel line clamps:
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=770352
https://belmetric.com/aba-mini-s40-screw-cross-slot-drive-w4-stainless-steel/

Discussion about distributor installation
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?si...16#9891116

Discussion about clutch pedal pivot
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...;start=100

discussion about broken bolt extraction
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=772061


Last edited by steve244 on Fri Aug 26, 2022 7:48 am; edited 46 times in total
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jlrftype7
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 01, 2022 6:10 am    Post subject: Re: 82 Air Cooled engine replacement questions and journal Reply with quote

As far as fuel injectors, a lot of people have great success just sending their old injectors out to be cleaned. Mr.Injector is one place, I'm sure there are others.
If you have the dropping resistor pack over on the side of the engine compartment[ 4 resistors ganged together as an assembly], you then need to carefully look at the correct replacement injector IF you need some, due to the internal ohm value of your injectors being critical and different than later vehicles , which just have power to the injectors with no dropping resistor needed.
So, you can't mix and match with the older system. The older AFC style Fuel Injection system really needs the right injectors, and your resistor pack needs to be in correct spec readings as well[ the connections corrode at the resistors over time, wires break, etc]

As for the fuel pump, I've read many people going with a Ford spec'ed part, but read up on pumps, there are many threads on Replacement Pumps , Noisy new pumps, etc.

For the Clutch, since you will have the engine out, THIS IS THE IDEAL time to have a complete new Clutch Assembly, any throwout bearing related parts made new or perfect, upgrades to the Slave Cyl if needed, CV Joint packing and new boots, fresh Trans fluid, motor mounts, Trans mounts if needed, Clutch fluid flush, line inspection for rust, flexible hoses replaced.
Pricey, adds to the 'Mission Creep', but so much easier while much of the room taken up by an installed engine is out of your way with the engine out.
Clean engine wiring up, replace electrical main cables for the battery along with any starter work so whatever starter you end up with, stock or upgrade, has the best chance of working correctly with non-corroded cables that are decades old if still original.
Compare a fresh heavy cable like just Jumper Cables to your Main Battery Cable that's coming to the Starter Motor. Does your Starter Cable even bend or flex at all, or is it rock hard. Internal Corrosion sneaks up a wire or cable, and once really in there, you lose all flexibility as a sign that it's taken hold of the strands of wire inside. It's usually worst at cable ends where the moisture entered in the first place.
Ground cable or cables need just as much close inspection, or upgrade to new.
Clean up the engine compartment while the engine is out, even if it's just you putting on gloves and wiping it all down with a cleaner or mild solvent like Mineral Spirits to remove the years of grime.
Since you have an Air Cooled Type 4, you will need to REALLY make sure the tins for the engine are all correct and tight fitting, then make sure the big seal around the perimeter of the engine to body is perfect, so no Hot Air is allowed to sneak back into the engine.
You want all air flow down to your motor and out and away, don't let gaps go unrepaired, they're bad for an Air Cooled Engine.
_________________
'68 Westy- my first VW and vehicle/Bus- long gone.- sold it to a traveling Swiss couple....
'67 Type 3 Fastback, my 2nd car- gone
'69 Semi-Auto Stick Shift Beetle-gone
2017 MINI Coopers, our current DDs
84 Tin Top - Hilga....Auto
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dobryan Premium Member
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 01, 2022 6:14 am    Post subject: Re: 82 Air Cooled engine replacement questions and journal Reply with quote

I'd also do some research on cylinder temp gauges to be able to monitor how the engine is running/cooling. This can help you find an issue before you melt something or drop a valve.
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'87 Westy w/ 2002 Subaru EJ25 and Peloquin TBD

"To travel hopefully is a better thing than to arrive." Robert Louis Stevenson

MD>Canada>AK>WA>OR>CA>AZ>UT>WY>SD
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=620646

Building a bus for travel in Europe (euroBus)
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=695371

The Western Syncro build
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=746794
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steve244
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 01, 2022 6:32 am    Post subject: Re: 82 Air Cooled engine replacement questions and journal Reply with quote

edit:
comprehensive AFC-FI manual here:
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/manuals/afc_f...Manual.pdf

Edit discussion of aux air regulator (idle air control). BD has rebuilt ones for lots. Plenty used on Ebay.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...p;start=20

jlrftype7 wrote:
As far as fuel injectors, a lot of people have great success just sending their old injectors out to be cleaned. Mr.Injector is one place, I'm sure there are others.
If you have the dropping resistor pack over on the side of the engine compartment[ 4 resistors ganged together as an assembly], you then need to carefully look at the correct replacement injector IF you need some, due to the internal ohm value of your injectors being critical and different than later vehicles , which just have power to the injectors with no dropping resistor needed.
So, you can't mix and match with the older system. The older AFC style Fuel Injection system really needs the right injectors, and your resistor pack needs to be in correct spec readings as well[ the connections corrode at the resistors over time, wires break, etc


edit: AFC-FI manual linked above has resistance values for FI and resistor pack.

Thank you! I didn't realize there were variables. I'll read up on this. Part of it is turnaround time. I don't think my wife will tolerate more than two weekends of Westy on Jacks in the carport. I'm just now getting her warmed up to the idea of Westy at All (no I didn't get approval from she-who-wears-the-pants before buying).

jlrftype7 wrote:
As for the fuel pump, I've read many people going with a Ford spec'ed part, but read up on pumps, there are many threads on Replacement Pumps , Noisy new pumps, etc.

thanks, I'll read up on this too. Not critical as can be done when desired.

jlrftype7 wrote:
For the Clutch, since you will have the engine out, THIS IS THE IDEAL time to have a complete new Clutch Assembly, any throwout bearing related parts made new or perfect, upgrades to the Slave Cyl if needed, CV Joint packing and new boots, fresh Trans fluid, motor mounts, Trans mounts if needed, Clutch fluid flush, line inspection for rust, flexible hoses replaced.
Pricey, adds to the 'Mission Creep', but so much easier while much of the room taken up by an installed engine is out of your way with the engine out.

OK, you sold me. I was leaning that way anyway. master and slave were replaced by seller who advised the clutch had plenty of meat left, but it's much better done when the engine's already out.

Price is a concern, but there's a higher cost of being cheap sometimes.
jlrftype7 wrote:
Clean engine wiring up, replace electrical main cables for the battery along with any starter work so whatever starter you end up with, stock or upgrade, has the best chance of working correctly with non-corroded cables that are decades old if still original.
Compare a fresh heavy cable like just Jumper Cables to your Main Battery Cable that's coming to the Starter Motor. Does your Starter Cable even bend or flex at all, or is it rock hard. Internal Corrosion sneaks up a wire or cable, and once really in there, you lose all flexibility as a sign that it's taken hold of the strands of wire inside. It's usually worst at cable ends where the moisture entered in the first place.
Ground cable or cables need just as much close inspection, or upgrade to new.

Agreed
jlrftype7 wrote:
Clean up the engine compartment while the engine is out, even if it's just you putting on gloves and wiping it all down with a cleaner or mild solvent like Mineral Spirits to remove the years of grime.

Yes!
jlrftype7 wrote:
Since you have an Air Cooled Type 4, you will need to REALLY make sure the tins for the engine are all correct and tight fitting, then make sure the big seal around the perimeter of the engine to body is perfect, so no Hot Air is allowed to sneak back into the engine.
You want all air flow down to your motor and out and away, don't let gaps go unrepaired, they're bad for an Air Cooled Engine.

I think the tins are OK but I'll know more once it's out. Bottom side looks complete. I'll add the perimeter gasket thingy to my list.

thanks very much for the advice.
Gonna have to whiteboard this like they do on roadkill...


Last edited by steve244 on Thu Jun 30, 2022 11:11 am; edited 3 times in total
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steve244
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 01, 2022 6:37 am    Post subject: Re: 82 Air Cooled engine replacement questions and journal Reply with quote

dobryan wrote:
I'd also do some research on cylinder temp gauges to be able to monitor how the engine is running/cooling. This can help you find an issue before you melt something or drop a valve.

I like that idea. Was thinking about getting some gauges and have been looking at speedhut. they're very biased towards water cooled...
Is oil temp as good (or better) to monitor than cylinder temps?

Also should I be replacing the oil cooler or just cleaning the old one?

Thanks!
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 01, 2022 6:44 am    Post subject: Re: 82 Air Cooled engine replacement questions and journal Reply with quote

steve244 wrote:
dobryan wrote:
I'd also do some research on cylinder temp gauges to be able to monitor how the engine is running/cooling. This can help you find an issue before you melt something or drop a valve.

I like that idea. Was thinking about getting some gauges and have been looking at speedhut. they're very biased towards water cooled...
Is oil temp as good (or better) to monitor than cylinder temps?

Also should I be replacing the oil cooler or just cleaning the old one?

Thanks!


Unless the old oil cooler is leaking I'd just clean it.

For air cooled the cylinder temp is more important than oil temp. But oil Temp is better than having no temp sensor.

I am not into air cooled anymore but I think you should be able to find temp systems on sites that cater to air cooled VWs. Not a generic Speedhut type gauge site.

Here is an example. I do not know how good a product this is though. Others with experience can chime in.

https://www.jbugs.com/product/V323701.html?utm_con...CkEALw_wcB
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Dave O
'87 Westy w/ 2002 Subaru EJ25 and Peloquin TBD

"To travel hopefully is a better thing than to arrive." Robert Louis Stevenson

MD>Canada>AK>WA>OR>CA>AZ>UT>WY>SD
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=620646

Building a bus for travel in Europe (euroBus)
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=695371

The Western Syncro build
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=746794
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steve244
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 01, 2022 7:02 am    Post subject: Re: 82 Air Cooled engine replacement questions and journal Reply with quote

dobryan wrote:


Unless the old oil cooler is leaking I'd just clean it.

For air cooled the cylinder temp is more important than oil temp. But oil Temp is better than having no temp sensor.

I am not into air cooled anymore but I think you should be able to find temp systems on sites that cater to air cooled VWs. Not a generic Speedhut type gauge site.

Here is an example. I do not know how good a product this is though. Others with experience can chime in.

https://www.jbugs.com/product/V323701.html?utm_con...CkEALw_wcB


Cool. I mean hot! I'm guessing the pyrometer is the gauge to be used?
https://www.jbugs.com/product/V310953.html
aaak, not pyrometer: that's for exhaust temps. I'll look for an appropriate gauge and sender (600F max?)
the sender goes under a spark plug, I'm guessing one of the front two is best.


Last edited by steve244 on Wed Jun 01, 2022 7:24 am; edited 1 time in total
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 01, 2022 7:07 am    Post subject: Re: 82 Air Cooled engine replacement questions and journal Reply with quote

steve244 wrote:
dobryan wrote:


Unless the old oil cooler is leaking I'd just clean it.

For air cooled the cylinder temp is more important than oil temp. But oil Temp is better than having no temp sensor.

I am not into air cooled anymore but I think you should be able to find temp systems on sites that cater to air cooled VWs. Not a generic Speedhut type gauge site.

Here is an example. I do not know how good a product this is though. Others with experience can chime in.

https://www.jbugs.com/product/V323701.html?utm_con...CkEALw_wcB


Cool. I mean hot! I'm guessing the pyrometer is the gauge to be used?
https://www.jbugs.com/product/V310953.html

the sender goes under a spark plug, I'm guessing one of the front two is best.


I believe that cylinder 3 runs the hottest generally. But listen to the air cooled guys, not me. Please. (It has been 23 years since I had my aircooled bus, drove it for 22 years though.)
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'87 Westy w/ 2002 Subaru EJ25 and Peloquin TBD

"To travel hopefully is a better thing than to arrive." Robert Louis Stevenson

MD>Canada>AK>WA>OR>CA>AZ>UT>WY>SD
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=620646

Building a bus for travel in Europe (euroBus)
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=695371

The Western Syncro build
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=746794
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oceanair
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 01, 2022 7:38 am    Post subject: Re: 82 Air Cooled engine replacement questions and journal Reply with quote

Aviation type CHT monitors are reasonably inexpensive and the sender is a sparkplug gasket, the copper type -- it's wired to the gage and doesn't need power.
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Previous: Green 72 Tin Top, White 72 Westy, Blue 64 Beetle, Yellow 71 Squareback, 2014 Jetta TDI Wagon - wish I could have them all back!
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 01, 2022 8:25 am    Post subject: Re: 82 Air Cooled engine replacement questions and journal Reply with quote

A lot of people like Dakota Digital gauges. Read up on the Bay Window forum about locating the sender. IMO installing the sender under the spark plug is problematic.

You may well be transferring your oil leakage problem from one engine to another if you don't make sure that the problem isn't in the PCV system.

Your replacement fuel lines should say 30r9 on them. Gates Barricade hose should say both 30r9 and 30r14, if it only says 30r14 it is NOT the correct hose.

Do not take the engine cooling fan apart to clean and paint it or you will be sorry.


Last edited by Wildthings on Wed Jun 01, 2022 8:54 am; edited 1 time in total
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 01, 2022 8:42 am    Post subject: Re: 82 Air Cooled engine replacement questions and journal Reply with quote

Thanks on the advice! I'll read up on this thing's PCV system.

EDIT: here is a thread where PCV issues are discussed, including blowing oil out the dipstick tube:
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...p;start=80

There are alternative PCV valves that may be substituted per that thread.

https://www.newegg.com/eur-o-e-replacement-parts-5...rce=region

Blowby seems to occur when at high throttle, so I'm thinking lower vacuum at higher throttle is why this is occuring at that time. Otherwise it gets sucked back through and goes out the tailpipe (tailpipe is very coated with carbon). There's also a fine coat of oil all over my back end:

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Last edited by steve244 on Mon Jun 27, 2022 11:07 am; edited 2 times in total
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 01, 2022 8:47 am    Post subject: Re: 82 Air Cooled engine replacement questions and journal Reply with quote

steve244 wrote:
jlrftype7 wrote:
As far as fuel injectors, a lot of people have great success just sending their old injectors out to be cleaned. Mr.Injector is one place, I'm sure there are others.
If you have the dropping resistor pack over on the side of the engine compartment[ 4 resistors ganged together as an assembly], you then need to carefully look at the correct replacement injector IF you need some, due to the internal ohm value of your injectors being critical and different than later vehicles , which just have power to the injectors with no dropping resistor needed.
So, you can't mix and match with the older system. The older AFC style Fuel Injection system really needs the right injectors, and your resistor pack needs to be in correct spec readings as well[ the connections corrode at the resistors over time, wires break, etc


Thank you! I didn't realize there were variables. I'll read up on this. Part of it is turnaround time. I don't think my wife will tolerate more than two weekends of Westy on Jacks in the carport. I'm just now getting her warmed up to the idea of Westy at All (no I didn't get approval from she-who-wears-the-pants before buying).

jlrftype7 wrote:
As for the fuel pump, I've read many people going with a Ford spec'ed part, but read up on pumps, there are many threads on Replacement Pumps , Noisy new pumps, etc.

thanks, I'll read up on this too. Not critical as can be done when desired.

jlrftype7 wrote:
For the Clutch, since you will have the engine out, THIS IS THE IDEAL time to have a complete new Clutch Assembly, any throwout bearing related parts made new or perfect, upgrades to the Slave Cyl if needed, CV Joint packing and new boots, fresh Trans fluid, motor mounts, Trans mounts if needed, Clutch fluid flush, line inspection for rust, flexible hoses replaced.
Pricey, adds to the 'Mission Creep', but so much easier while much of the room taken up by an installed engine is out of your way with the engine out.

OK, you sold me. I was leaning that way anyway. master and slave were replaced by seller who advised the clutch had plenty of meat left, but it's much better done when the engine's already out.

Price is a concern, but there's a higher cost of being cheap sometimes.
jlrftype7 wrote:
Clean engine wiring up, replace electrical main cables for the battery along with any starter work so whatever starter you end up with, stock or upgrade, has the best chance of working correctly with non-corroded cables that are decades old if still original.
Compare a fresh heavy cable like just Jumper Cables to your Main Battery Cable that's coming to the Starter Motor. Does your Starter Cable even bend or flex at all, or is it rock hard. Internal Corrosion sneaks up a wire or cable, and once really in there, you lose all flexibility as a sign that it's taken hold of the strands of wire inside. It's usually worst at cable ends where the moisture entered in the first place.
Ground cable or cables need just as much close inspection, or upgrade to new.

Agreed
jlrftype7 wrote:
Clean up the engine compartment while the engine is out, even if it's just you putting on gloves and wiping it all down with a cleaner or mild solvent like Mineral Spirits to remove the years of grime.

Yes!
jlrftype7 wrote:
Since you have an Air Cooled Type 4, you will need to REALLY make sure the tins for the engine are all correct and tight fitting, then make sure the big seal around the perimeter of the engine to body is perfect, so no Hot Air is allowed to sneak back into the engine.
You want all air flow down to your motor and out and away, don't let gaps go unrepaired, they're bad for an Air Cooled Engine.

I think the tins are OK but I'll know more once it's out. Bottom side looks complete. I'll add the perimeter gasket thingy to my list.

thanks very much for the advice.
Gonna have to whiteboard this like they do on roadkill...

If the clutch is that good when you have it all apart, you may well be able to reuse it if money is an issue for something else that's more pressing- Inspect the Flywheel as well, I'm guessing you're swapping yours to the new engine?
If there aren't any blue marks or chatter marks all over it, and since you and you alone have the benefit of actually driving with your Current Clutch Assembly, you would know if any issues had cropped up during that fairly long driving time with it.
If any oil got into the disc from a oil leak out of the engine, you should be able to spot that once it's all apart.
Good to hear that hopefully your Clutch Hydraulic system is okay- Fresh fluid for the brakes and Clutch, done every year or two only helps keep them working correctly. Cool
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steve244
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 01, 2022 8:51 am    Post subject: Re: 82 Air Cooled engine replacement questions and journal Reply with quote

Engine comes with a flywheel (if that's the big geared thingy on the back).

How do people feel about switching to pointless ignition. I'm thinking a fresh pair of points will last about 5 years being a recreational vehicle...

yeah, the brake master and rear wheel cylinders were replaced. Fluid is fresh. That was my main concern before going over mountains. Well that and getting up the mountains.

The clutch felt fine. I'll have to look at my budget, but it's another question of turnaround time if it's worn. Maybe that's something I should get locally if needed.

At 3-5K miles per year the current clutch might last a looong time.


Last edited by steve244 on Wed Jun 01, 2022 8:56 am; edited 1 time in total
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Wasted youth
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 01, 2022 8:53 am    Post subject: Re: 82 Air Cooled engine replacement questions and journal Reply with quote

I have a nice running 1981 air-cooled Vanagon with California emissions package. I just got a set of fuel injectors back from Mr. Injector. First time I used him.

My thread is Mojave desert Westy, and you can see info there.

Any time my Bosch fuel pump was noisy was due to fuel filter getting plugged, and I attribute the noisy fuel pump. Fresh fuel filter eliminates the problem for me.

I never worry about cylinder or oil temps because I keep it tuned nearly perfect and the cooling system is stock and functioning.
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 01, 2022 8:59 am    Post subject: Re: 82 Air Cooled engine replacement questions and journal Reply with quote

I think the seller replaced the filter, but you never know. I'll add that to my list.

I like gauges, but I like not cutting the dash too. Will be keeping it completely stock. Waving people around me on hills is half the fun!
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 01, 2022 9:18 am    Post subject: Re: 82 Air Cooled engine replacement questions and journal Reply with quote

steve244 wrote:
I think the seller replaced the filter, but you never know. I'll add that to my list.

I like gauges, but I like not cutting the dash too. Will be keeping it completely stock. Waving people around me on hills is half the fun!


Look into converting over the the later style fuel filter setup and eliminating the problematic white cube filter.

Fifteen'ish years ago when I did my 83 1/2 I had to cob the fittings that I could find at the local hardware together to make an adapter, but now you can just buy a kit from Go Westy and others to do the up grade.

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I was changing the little white cubes almost daily when on long trips as the fuel sloshing around in the tank was loosening years of built up crud. Have only change the filter once in the 15 years since I did the conversion and that was preventative and not because I had a problem.
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 01, 2022 9:29 am    Post subject: Re: 82 Air Cooled engine replacement questions and journal Reply with quote

thanks! added to the list.
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iltis74
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 01, 2022 9:36 am    Post subject: Re: 82 Air Cooled engine replacement questions and journal Reply with quote

Kyle Automotive Specialties can build you a new fuel injection harness if you'd like. Well worth knowing they're out there if nothing else.
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 01, 2022 3:29 pm    Post subject: Re: 82 Air Cooled engine replacement questions and journal Reply with quote

FWIW, I tend to replace the clutch disc most any time I have access, even when things look very good, what I have found is that the springs in the disc will fail from high mileage even if the lining looks fine. You will also want to install a new pilot bearing if the builder didn't do it for you. I prefer the "diesel" bearing which has a rubber lip seal versus using the original style bearing with depends on the felt ring to keep the clutch dust and grease separated. A stepped drill bit can be used to clearance the flywheel so the slightly longer "diesel" bearing will fit.
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