1958 bug suggestions welcome

[Dan2973]

Hello all it’s been a while. I sold my 66 and I have the fever for another project. A local guy has this 1958? Without a title. The car has a missing body tag but does have its original engine that runs. The car was getting restored but than stopped and sat for years. The paint has some small rust spots and chips but the body is solid. Don’t know any history of the metal work. The car also comes with a full interior in the boxes. There are some bits missing. Has the snowflakes tail lights .comes with seats and all glass. The pan was all painted up. There is a crate with rusty water in it that had some parts in it that I fished out. I told the guy if he gets the title I would be interested at $5500. What are your thoughts guys. I’m not familiar with the 58,s.

[6T5 square]

Try to hold out for the title. Getting the car registered in NJ can be a real hassle without it. Took me about three months. Otherwise looks like a good candidate even with the floor work
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[scottyrocks]

In NY, pre-'75ish cars don't need titles to be sold. Check the laws in your state if you haven't already.
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[Dan2973]

[rusty ducktape]

For something this solid in my area no title I’d be in the $2200 but it depends on the area

[Dan2973]

My question is what is it worth with a title?

[Wily]

[67ctbug]

That depends what the state's rules are. If I bought that in CT with no title, but had you fill in a certain form, I can get a vin verification at an oil change place and stroll in to the DMV and walk out with plates. That wouldn't fly in some states.
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[my59]

Check the dmv rules, and for gods sake please tell us the pedal cluster pic bits were fished out of the swamp. Any interior bits left?
Engine runs? East coast, if I was into a project, id bite
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[Dan2973]

Just an update. A title company in Nevada is working on the title. I took a better look at he body and unfortunately there is some spots where the paint is lifting and chipped. Comes with a running original 36 horse and new interior kit. I think I’m going to offer closer to 5000$

[Dan2973]

Hello all. Another update and what do you guys think. The seller got the reg from a Vermont company along with a new antique plate. It cost him $900 bucks for that. If I buy the car, I would have to get it flipped at the New Jersey motor vehicle into my name. Yes, I am really posting again just to ask for advice on what to do. All of the hard work on this body has been done. it is a matching pan and engine as far as I know, I’m not sure if the deck lid is original. the front and rear seats have been professionally reupholstered with a light gray vinyl and cloth inserts and seat frames are painted. It also comes with the new carpet kit and door panels to match seats. Comes with windshield and rear glass. There is a lot of car here but it is missing bits like speedo and door handles and dash switches. I feel like every time I’m looking in the classifieds I see bodies that are rotted for the same price and more. But yet people here will tell me it’s only worth $2k. The interior alone cost that. I got the seller down to $4800. This sale would also lead to a bunch of other useful parts he has and he’s local. So what do you guys think. A finished rust free roller with brand new interior and matching 36 hp. I feel like I could source all the missing parts here. Please chime in and give me your thoughts. I’m going to post pictures of the engine and pictures of the deck lead.

[Busstom]

Looks like numbers-matching engine for that car, July or August 1958.

Decklid looks wrong, it looks like a 63-34 decklid, so wrong latch, should be the earlier twist-handle latch and a round indentation in the sheet metal where the latch goes. See here:
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=490378

Either way, if you're getting it for $5,500 or so, I say grab it. You looked for rust everywhere, right?
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[iowegian]

If I am reading this right, the price is now $4800 WITH title?
So after he spends $900 for the title, he is essentially selling the car for $3,900.
(yea, I know, they said there would be no math )

If that's the case it sounds like a fine deal.

[my59]

Later gas tank, later deck lid.
The white steering wheel yes, dunno if the other one on the shaft will work.
For 4800 with a VT title, why not?
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my59: Well son, my grandfather died before I got to drive it, so does that answer your question?
our79: sunroof bus w/camper interior and 2.0 FI
Other:'12 Jetta, '77 Benz 300D, and a 74 MG Midget.

[Dan2973]

[Pruneman99]

If it's got a title now, what's the issue? I seriously doubt you'll find a similar rust free car on the east coast in that price range.

A rust free 58 here in SoCal would be in that range.

Edit: after looking at the pictures again I see the pan is rusted clear through. Are you sure that car is rust free? Pans are not a big deal, but it suggests there might be more rust than meets the eye. People will put lipstick on a pig.

[Rome]

With the supposedly truly rust-free body and pan, as well as a running engine, you are already thousands of dollars, maybe even tens of thousands ahead with not having to redo those areas. If you don''t like the white portion of the two-tone paint, you can try to remove the white using various methods to reveal hopefully all black that can be polished to a decent gloss. Being able to assemble it to driving condition within let's say a year, instead of pushing rust repair and repaint which costs much time, is a big bonus and motivation.

So if you like the overall look of the Beetle, it's a very reasonable price for a car located in the NorthEast.

I strongly recommend having sturdy mounting points welded in for 3-point safety belts for the front seats, before you start with interior assembly work.

That BLACK steering wheel and column is a later style, say '60+, which would likely accomodate the later 2-chamber taillamps from a '62+. You could keep the '58-original snowflake taillamps but install supplemental lamps for turn signals. I did that on my late '52 Beetle 30 years ago, using turn signals from a small motorcycle that had the lenses on stalks. You mount the signals to the bumper brackets out by the bumpers. Or you can use '67 Beetle back-up lamps and yellow bulbs; both style signals are for increased visibility and safety.

[AlteWagen]

If those pedals are for the pan Id check to see if the vin has been welded onto a later pan (stick your phone in the shift linkage hole and get a pic from behind the number and look for evidence of welding.
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[Dan2973]

[Pruneman99]