Pushrods/valves SEEM dead / engine build

[NachoCar]

Align bore is complete !

Interestingly the machinist bore it to .02 oversized which is the measurement my friend came up with BEFORE the work.

edit: Buddy that measured pointed out that he got .010 oversized . I got confused when machinist texted "First bore = 0.020 oversize"

That might of been the reason the crank was binding even with minimal torque.

WIll know when case and new parts shipment arrive!

[NachoCar]

Baby step of success! Finally have crank assembly in case with up to 10 lbs torque AND IT STILL TURNS!!!!

I was worried about spinning a bearing because I was warned by good samba-nite about lack of protrusion in this picture:

He said dowel pin was not protruding enough so I had the idea to find some slightly longer ones. Seemed like a great idea at the time. Was excited to get machined case and all parts last week. Started celebrating a bit premature with some adult beverages and forgot to VERIFY how deep holes in bearing were. Ruined another set of bearings.

Leeson learned! measure twice and drink once!

[rosevillain]

If it helps, the dowels are there to ensure that the bearings are clocked in the saddles correctly. The crush that happens when the case is torqued keeps them in place, or so I've been told.

[KTPhil]

[NachoCar]

Almost ready to button her up!

Can't find the new O-rings for the studs. Hope the old ones are sufficient.

Should I dress them with anything thicker than 30 SAE oil?

[NachoCar]

Well crank turns good UNTIL I tighten the 13 mm perimeter fasteners. The 6 main rod nuts torqued and she spins very well.

Tried diff sequences and low torque levels on the way to 13 ft-lbs. Some helped but still get more resistance than I THINK I should have.

Dear Lord......

[NachoCar]

Any ideas on possible causes and where I should focus and what I should measure when I split case again??

[mukluk]

Are you torqueing the two cam studs first, then the large main studs, and followed last by the perimeter hardware?
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1960 Ragtop w/Semaphores "Inga"

[NachoCar]

Nope......following this:

The six 17mm nuts need to be torqued to 23 ft/lbs. The 13mm nuts need to be torqued to 16 ft/lbs. The order I go in is the center two 17mm nuts first, then the two closest to the flywheel, then towards the nose. Next I torque the two 13mm nuts for the nose bearing. After that I torque the three that are around the cam. Finally I torque the rest of the 13mm nuts around the case, the order doesn't matter. As you torque the nuts above the crank and cam bore, make sure you are always spinning the engine by hand. If it suddenly gets tight for some reason, you have a problem.

[NachoCar]

Thank you! I will try at lunch!!!

[NachoCar]

Perhaps a bit of difference ......but not major. CRAP

[Pruneman99]

Well, now you're going to need to isolate the issue.

Start with the cam only, and torque the entire case. Not just the mains.

If no problem there, try the crank by itself. Maybe without the #2 split bearing. Torque the entire case.

Etc.

Narrow down where the tight spot is.

Now, if you accidentally previously pinched a bearing or something, you can find jt.

[NachoCar]

Thanks! I will calm down and approach ot like a Vulcan, logically.

Did find one possibility is the bolts for oil pump may be interfering with the cam gear bolt heads.

I'm trying to figure out why the cam bolts on either side of the cam plug would be a priority? The gear is on the other side? nevermind......guessing the cam bearing being there.

[NachoCar]

looked suspicious on the two longer Maxi 2 pump but there are no wear marks on the cam gear bolts.

Took case apart about more than a couple times and tried crank by itself. Seemed fine.

Next time left the cam in by itself and it is at least PART of the issue. Going to try diff brand cam bearings next.

[raydog]

Are you torqueing the case halves together with the oil pump already installed? If so, it has been a while since my last rebuild, but I always thought the pump goes in after the case is done.
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Come on, It's not rocket science. KISS

[NachoCar]

[Pruneman99]

Pump goes in now. I don't like the idea of squeezing the pump in after the case is fully torqued unless you need to. You would still need to loosen the case bolts near the pump if you put it in afterwards.

The only issue with the pump could be the tang is bottoming out on the cam, or for some crazy reason it's machined wrong and it doesn't fit the hole. You can measure to find out.

Are you using Silverline double thrust cam bearings by chance? I've had major issues with them pinching the cam when torqued in the case.

[NachoCar]

I have several diff sets of cam bearings. Two Mahle and one siverline. I spent some time today measuring them all today. Figured there would be some variation, there was a bit. Gonna swap them around tonight.

Fingers crossed!!

[NachoCar]

Thought I'd share my excitement.......

I give it a one in 4 chance of making it a full 20 mins for Cam break in, but learned a lot!

[VW_Jimbo]

It will be fine!

Nice job! Don’t forget the oil!
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Jimbo

There is never enough time to do it right the first time, but all the time necessary the second time!