New (to me) 2001 Weekender MV

[VanGeek]

Hi there. Just pulled the trigger on a 2001 Weekender MV. Seems overall in great condition and relatively low mileage (85K). Most everything is functional but I'm going through it and some service records to assess near-term maintenance and updates. I'll share my progress and perhaps some questions here as I've seen others do.

Here's what I'm currently working on...

Transmission drain, filter replace, and refill. I can't find evidence that this was ever done previously. Not on carfax. Contacted prior service depts and nobody could find evidence. Just ordered a kit from europarts-sd.com and some excellent instructions from the rialtainfo site.
Repair two floppy armrests using the gowesty repair kit. Parts ordered.
Fix door switch for overhead light (done -- just needed some cleaning. Harness looked good).
Check for coolant leaks. Runs fine and no drips below -- PO's shop replaced water pump last year. But I smell coolant...
Flush brake fluid.
Update interior lights to LED.

Have looked at a lot of transmission discussions here and I THINK I should replace the ATF since no evidence it's ever been done. However, youtube conventional wisdom and a VW service dept (who confirmed they never did the recommended service) suggests that the likely old ATF has probably lead to internal varnish in the gears etc that keep the trans tight -- and replacing the fluid on a poorly maintained (but working well) trans could cause it to slip gears. Appreciate the wisdom from this community about if I should do it as currently planned...

[MrPulldown]

I have or participated in threads discussing both interior LED swap and coolant fitting repairs.

Sorry I did not search them out and post links.
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2002 EVC

[VanGeek]

[mikemtnbike]

85k miles isn’t an old transmission. It’s one that needs a drain and fill as like routine maintenance. Do that. Use pentosin or similar atf, or if want to gamble on a lower cost but also good option, valvoline maxlife.

Check your floor for dampness around middle of dash or does the coolant smell get worse when running heat? Heater core leaks are not uncommon, big job, have to pull dash. I just did this job and would guess it took me about 20 hours of labor but I did other stuff too, plus ran into a few unexpected pitfalls. It was also my first time pulling any dash.

You can bypass the heater core by looping the heater hoses together with a joint in the engine bay. A good temporary answer until can fix, but you’ll have no heat.

Pressure testing the cooling system is also a good option.
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1991 Vanagon GL 2.1 AT Westfauxlia. "Frankie" Totaled https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=764510&highlight=carnage
1995 Eurovan Camper "Marzivan"
2020 GTI SE manual

[VanGeek]

Pulled the belly pan and found some disappointment... Despite the thorough service records and pristine exterior, interior, and underside (behind the belly pan) which received excellent maintenance and care, the engine/tranny area is crustier and leakier than expected.

I'm new to the Eurovan and VR6/01P so will rely on service manuals and your feedback for direction.

Definitely going to change the ATF. The edges and bottom of pan have a lot of corrosion that would be more effectively remedied off the vehicle during ATF change. But can't leave the lower trans area exposed to garage crud while I work on it.

I see evidence of leaks under the tranny (ATF gasket?), and oil pan/filter areas. Hard to see up to the top-end of the engine, but unclear if the cam cover seal requires attention.

A/C compressor, radiator look good. Tensioner, water pump, alternator, oil/filter all replaced by the PO's shop just a few months and 600 miles ago. Starter sounds/works just fine but looks very corroded. Wondering if I should replace it as a preventative measure?

Not going to expose this one to winter conditions yet. Several frame, suspension, and painted steel areas that will be wire brushed/grinded, cleaned, coated with rust converter/primer, and coater/inhibiter.

Pls let me know what you think

requires attention.

[EuroTec]

Lots of corrosion on things but IMO your oil leaks aren't that bad. Might be a bit coming from the valve cover gasket and that is where I would focus the oil leak search on first. Timing cover is sealed with a white paste that cures up like rubber and most likely OK. Sometimes a bit of a leak can occur between the upper and lower portion of said cover right at the head gasket, which is what seals the two covers to each other.

Oil cooler is probably getting that oil drip from above, not the cooler itself.

Trans oil pan looks pretty rough but probably salvageable. My advice would be to replace it if possible. One of those rust spots opening up and causing a leak would ruin your day and possibly your already fragile 01P. Wire wheel that rust when you do your transmission service and look for thin spots.

Actually not a bad looking underside. I usually see a lot more leaks on the ones that come in our shop for service.
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If it ain't broke, don't fix it!

[VanGeek]

Thanks EuroTec that's encouraging and helpful. I've definitely seen worse (here and on other vehicles I owned) -- just thought this one would be super clean in there given the condition everywhere else inside, outside, and underneath. Will service it into excellent shape after I get some time with it over the Winter.

I'll clean things up and then have an easier time identifying sources of the leaks. ATF pans seem difficult to find -- I'll try to find one before I change the ATF fluid and filter.

[VanGeek]

Purchased the gowesty armrest bracket replacement to fix the wobble on the front seats and one of the jumpseats. https://gowesty.com/products/armrest-pivot-bracket-fix

Read a lot here about broken brackets that cause this problem. No visible wear on the armrests but I suspect they were used as step on/off points for the upper bunk.

New brackets arrived on Monday. Started with the (very) wobbliest jumpset arm. Popped off the plastic covers on the armrest mount, inserted my #6 hex key, and began to loosen it. But found it was already loose! Decided to tighten it instead. Problem resolved w/o the new bracket. Old bracket was just fine and apparently loose.

Found the same situation with the other front seats. Oh well -- I now have the kit to fix them if they break in the future...

[VanGeek]

Removed my front grill to inspect my radiator, condenser, and frame-lock area. Was surprised it was so easy to remove with two screws from the top.

Upon closer examination, realized there are two add'l screws that attach to the condensor mount and the grill tabs were broken. One was still attached to the mounting screw. The other was gone.

For the missing tab, I fabricated a new one on my 3D printer. I trimmed the broken area, squared it to mate with the new tab, roughed the surfaces, cleaned w/alcohol, and glued it into position with JB-Weld for plastic bonding. It feels very secure.

I also glued the other broken tab back into position and where-possible provide generous overlap and filleting of the JB-Weld. I'm not 100% the old brittle tab that was re-attached will hold. If not, I'll cut it out and add another 3D printed one.

Pics below of the before, during, and after work. After another 48 hrs of curing time, me thinks this grill could use some cleaning-up! May also paint it with raptor black or something next Spring...

Broken driver tab from back-side of grill:

Broken passenger tab from back-side of grill:

Driver side tab mounting area after trimming/squaring:

Broken passenger tab (removed from condenser mount screw) seems to fit well:

3D printing a new driver side tab:

New driver side tab bonded to the grill:

New driver side tab view from front of grill:

Passenger tab re-glued into place:

[VanGeek]

Slow but steady progress over the Winter. The more I learn about this van, the PO's admission of not being an automotive or mechanical person but someone who cared about his vehicle makes sense. He kept up with everything he could see and understood. But in areas-unseen, his mechanic wasn't proactive or the PO wasn't taking advice. Everything mechanical is/was working properly. Body/paint/interior in near-perfect condition. Several misc rust issues. Most are just emerging and haven't caused damage. Most serious are the left rear quarter + muffler heat shield and front air intake.

I've gone thru the known carfax vehicle history and repair records to determine priorities. Thus far...

Removed belly pan. scrubbed. reinsulated. "un-dented" refinished.
Scrubbed the engine bay.
Confirmed oil pan leak. Unconfirmed cam sensor or valve cover leak.
Cleaned/Confirmed drive boots and steering rack boots were in good condition.
Dropped oil pan. Cleaned it. Replaced seal. https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=778341&highlight=
Evaluated upper/lower ball joints. All are tight.
Replaced passenger lower ball joint b/c I had to remove it to drop oil pan.
Inner tie rods were loose. Replaced inner and outer tie rods.
Coated front suspension components and cross-member with B'laster surface shield.
Installed headlight relays.
Will drop AT-pan, drain AT fluid, replace fluid/filter, cross my fingers.

Pulled front grille and front/rear bumper covers. Fixed broken grille mounts.
Bumpers are solid with just light surface rust
Rear quarter metal trim (underneath covers) have significant rust. Will replace driver side.
Dropped original, 22 year old rusted spare tire/wheel. Surface rust in some areas but not bad.
Muffler heat shield is rusted-thru. Need used replacement. ...or May fabricate my own with aluminum and reflecting/insulated mat'l (had success on other vehicles with this).
Discovered emerging rust around air intake on passenger side. Requires attention. Hope to remediate without removing fender.

Rebuilt cabin lights with LEDs, dimmer, and option for on/off via door switch. https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=10020138#10020138

Haven't yet had much driving time but will definitely monitor center dash floor and smell for coolant leaks. Pulled some dash front/lower panels and didn't see prior evidence of leaks.
Charging-ahead so I am road ready with the goal of before end of May.

[VanGeek]

Here's the rust forming around the air intake. Wasn't obvious to find. Was forming below airbox and foam gasket on intake grill. Had to remove cabin air intake, engine air intake, and washer bottle but glad I found it. Fender is perfect, but inner panel that holds intake foam, and front of wheel well require attention.

Would be easiest to fix with fender removed. Looks like bolt along top (under hood), rear (accessed from passenger door jamb) and below (two in the front/side under bumper cover. If yes I may do that.

[VanGeek]

Lotsa rocks and rust on the bar that holds the spare. I don't think it's ever been removed. You can see passenger suspension parts that I've already brushed and begun treating. Starting to look good...

WW48 of 2000 date code on the spare tire and steel wheel is super crusty. I will replace it or leave it out and carry fix-a-flat or something. Honestly, I haven't had a flat in 30 years (understanding I just jinxed myself)

The area under the tire was not rustproofed. They sprayed around it
But just a little surface rust. I already started wire brushing the suspect areas and will treat everything.

Suspension parts have light seam rust but otherwise stellar. Will brush and treat the seams. Areas near muffler are the worst. Heat shield is toast. Not obvious from the pics but it's rusted-thru in a few places and crumbles in my hand in others. Will buy a used OEM muffler heat shield or fabricate one.

lower rear quarter piece that holds rear portion of rear wheel well is also fried. Already have the replacement steel for that.

[soissisc]

[VanGeek]

[soissisc]

[VanGeek]

I think you're referring to the outrigger that connects the front frame to the lower outsides of the bumper, correct? I have a photo somewhere...

Mine are near perfect. A tiny amt of surface rust down low but doesn't require refinishing. Just a little wirebrush and surface shield.

[soissisc]

Yes. That is good!
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Mark

68 Westy
92 Jetta (oh it is retired)
99 Eurovan
05 NBC
06 Audi A3
72 Westy (I am going to fix it up)

[VanGeek]

Making progress...

Left rear quarter is repaired and the new metal is jb-welded and riveted in place. There's an ugly screw head visible -- that particular mounting area wasn't ideal for a rivet... Have some primer on there right now. The original part was coated in seam sealer and painted so I will do the same (although nobody will ever see in since it sits behind the bumper cover).

Upon closer examination of the rear bumper I saw more rust around the tow hook and exhaust areas so I removed it, wire brushed, and treated with VHT rust converter. After that will paint with enamel and reinstall. Also sourced a used heatshield in very good condition so am prepping and painting it with high temp primer and paint. These shields perform better unpainted but the paint is necessary at this point to protect it. I may put a reflective aluminized liner on it to improve the performance.

Cut-out the rusted inner wing intake area and cut the replacement part to-size. Starting the installation process. Will also JB-weld and rivet and then clean the surrounding area, color-match, and clear-coat w/2K paint. Not an area most will ever see but want it strong and rust-proofed for the future.

[shirk]

Nice work. Reminds me I should dig into the inner front fender to have a look how ours is in there.

[VanGeek]