Type 4 timing.

[busdaddy]

Here's a way to do it without dropping the exhaust: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=245805&highlight=shroud
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Слава Україні!

[75 Westy FI noob]

leaning towards removing Alt, and removing half the shroud at a time.
removing the studs is very interesting too. may try that if it's safe. two nuts and just counterclockwise to remove?
i dont want to remove the exhaust. haha getting old!

[busdaddy]

[75 Westy FI noob]

I read your post about needing to weld to get those out… went w plan B.. removed the exhaust. Should make some other tasks easier too.

Now I see how the Alt is disconnected too

[75 Westy FI noob]

Actually… idk how to disconnect the Alternator… without removing the back plate from the Alternator. That seems absurd.. bc its gonna hang there by the wires?

Ive removed the grommet, but the connector is still hidden

Im about to get the wire cutters if I dont catch a clue here.

[busdaddy]

Other end of the harness, disconnect at the regulator and starter and shove the wires through the tin, once it's on the bench it can be further removed from inside the cover.
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!

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[75 Westy FI noob]

guess ’dry’ was their priority.. i looked at the harness, but hadnt figured where the second wire ran to. Back to the starter

[75 Westy FI noob]

Finally got it starting and idling well enough to check the timing with a light while running.

Seems to be at about 8.5 .. maybe 9.. BTDC .. at quiet idle.

Is this 'close enough' .. ? runs well. I'd leave it like this based on how it starts and runs but I don't want to detonate my pistons or anything.

[75 Westy FI noob]

WT: "I want to add something here, you can not set your timing accurately at idle if the rpm isn't correct while you are setting it. If the idle is already so high that the distributor is giving centrifugal advance then that advance will make it so you can not set you timing accurately. It is much better to set you timing at full mechanical advance, 28° BTDC at 3800 rpm, with the hose(s) off and plugged. Also note that the exact rpm is not important when doing this and there is zero reason to use a tachometer, just rev the engine until the timing quits advancing to determine if the timing is correctly set at 28° BTDC or not."


found this post by WildThings on another thread... I guess I will check it at 3500 rpm and see how close to 28 it is.

'Hoses off and plugged".. those are the hoses on the distributor? or all the hoses on the big S Tube? mine is a mechanical dist with no vacuum lines.

[busdaddy]

[75 Westy FI noob]

Ive picked up a SVDA from VWNOS… looks great.
Installed it but haven’t set timing yet.

Vac nip on my throttle body is 8mm .. so Ive ordered a fitting to reduce that hose down to 4mm hose to fit the vacc can on the dizzy. Will leave 2nd vacc line plugged (also 8mm).

VWNOS didnt have the orig part but he says this alternate will run.
( 022 905 205 S instead of factory 021 905 205 AC)

They provided a graph of the test run, noting that the vacc will advance the curve additionally to whats on the graph in low rpms.

Plan to set at 5 ATDC … to get it going, then ise a light to check 28 BTDC at 3500 rpm.

Also, I updated the points with Elrich on this new one.
Set gap at 19. Gap is noticeably flatter.

Anyone see concerns w this graph + vacc advance before i run it?

[Wildthings]

[busdaddy]

[75 Westy FI noob]

[bsairhead]

Did that set of points come with the distributor?

[raygreenwood]

[75 Westy FI noob]

Thanks Ray, I’ll retake the picture or post the part number.
It is noticeably nicer, and i appreciate the advice to upgrade it.

I’m struggling to find info on the two vacc lines in Bentley or Ratwell..

My Throttle body has two vacc posts.. both are plugged, circled in blue.
I thought they are 4 mm but not sure.

Which line should go to my SVDA ?
The high one near the firewall or the one that sits near the intakes (bottom in pic) ?

[Wildthings]

The correct hose should not have vacuum at hot idle. The two hoses are also different diameters, with the retard hose being the larger IIRC.

[75 Westy FI noob]

Thanks WT … im going to try the one at the bottom of the pic, nearest to the Dist.

I had ordered a brass 8mm to 4mm hose fitting based on my caliper measurements… but ive found the the hose is nearer to 5mm and the 8mm wont fit.

So i went round to the zona del auto and got some plastic 5mm to 5mm plastic fittings. Gonna try it today or tomorrow.

[75 Westy FI noob]

Well... the new Dizzy shows what a piece of crap my old chyyna 009 was. Setting the static timing was not a shell game, and .. the cap fits easily on it where the old one was very tricky.


But the Advance has me a little concerned.


I found that, just like the graph shows... when it's set to 7 BTDC at idle.. it's only at about 22 BTDC at 3,500 rpm. (vacuum can disconnected, and hose plugged).

I'm about to push the resting value up to about 12 and recheck it.
Whatever it takes to get it to 25 minimum, right?

Or, should I be checking the 3,500 rpm value with the vacc can enabled ?
My understanding is that it won't make a difference at the top end there.