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allamaabroad
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 12, 2022 12:48 pm    Post subject: Re: EFI Conversion Reply with quote

Brian_e wrote:
I have the China 42mm throttle bodies on my efi 2333cc in my road trip bus. They took quite a while to get everything dialed in 100%, but they have been working good now.

I found the TPS off of some Land Rover to work. I have the part numbers at home, and I will update this when I get back into town. I ordered 2 and keep one as a spare. It bolted right up with some hardware from Ace.

The CB and various other air cleaner/linkage bases won’t fit. They sit to low and hit the injectors. They would need to be spaced up about 1/2” to make them fit. The bolt pattern on them is also 1/2 hole off everywhere. You will also need to make/buy some linkage arms with the D shape in them, and find a way to attach them to the shafts with a set screw. The throttle stops need to be incorporated into them also. The arms that come with the throttle bodies are almost 100% worthless.
Lots of different ways to try and overcome these issues. I ended up making new tubes with flanges to bolt to the top of the TB’s, and running 4 separate K&N filters slipped over the tubes. I also worked with Pete at SyncLink to make some new pulleys since I was using his linkage previously. He got them pretty darn close going off of texted pictures and my measurements, but they still needed some more tweaking, machining, and fine tuning. If I were to do it again, I would just use the CB throttle bodies and CB linkage. Pay the money the money and bolt it on.

For my ecm, I used microsquirt, added the 2nd MAP sensor, and the rest of the kit is from Mario. I have about 4500miles on it now. I use tuner studio, and the mega log viewer. For the most part it works pretty good, and there are tons of tuning options. Almost to many. Getting it to run right and making the VE tables and timing tables correct for the engine are easy. The start-up enrichment, the warm up cycle, and mostly the altitude compensation have all been a major PITA. I have tried all the way one way, and all the way back the other way, and I can’t seem to get the altitude comp to work. If I were to do it again, I would use a FuelTech 450 from Stef at Ace and be done. More money, but much easier all around.

All in all, I have about $3500 into my swap. 😳. I was in somewhat of a time crunch, so I just ordered the whole kit minus the TB’s from Mario. I didn’t want to spend the time engineering everything and then troubleshooting. I put the kit on, drove it about 100 miles, got the tune close, then loaded up the bus for a 3000 mile road trip.

It ran great on the trip, except I needed to continuously log and update the tune every night for the new altitude changes. It got no better MPG than my decently tuned 44mm IDF’s, power output feels the same, and the throttle response is slightly slower. It also drives me nuts that it takes 2-3 revolutions before it will light and idle. The IDF’s pop off with less than 1 revolution.

All in all....I bought it to try out and test it for possible use on customer bus engines. At this time, I won’t sell it to customers. Too much going on, and it will be over the heads of 90% of typical bus owners. It is also a royal pain in the ass to trouble shoot when you are not in the garage. A magnaspark and some carbs really only have 3-4 possible things that can go wrong, and they are all easily checked with a test light.


Brian, I was hoping you'd post on here at some point. I was chatting with Chip Birks yesterday and he said you had an almost identical setup on your bus. I'm glad to hear that the TB's are working okay for you (since I already ordered them). I have some thoughts on how to adapt my CSP linkage to the throttle bodies., gonna 3d print some prototypes once i get them in my hands. I think I found the TPS you're talking about, but I'd love a PN confirmation.

I take it you're using the second MAP sensor for altitude correction? If so, that's definitely something I want to add to the list.

By way of good news, I scored a set of 4 270cc RC injectors for $120 today. Should be just about perfect for this project and really helped out my budget.

Also, some people may hate on this, but I found an OEM fuel pressure regulator that'll work perfectly for this, and also allow me to use hardlines/rubber softlines on everything. I could certainly blow my entire budget on AN fittings and hose, so this will be a much more budget friendly way to get the fuel system plumbed.

Now I just gotta wait a few weeks or sell some extra stuff to get the ECU and crank trigger stuff ordered Smile
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clonebug
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 12, 2022 2:16 pm    Post subject: Re: EFI Conversion Reply with quote

I use the Stock German Regulator for my setup and it's been trouble free for 50,000 miles. Tested to 26 lbs. boost too.
I pushed a 5/16ths steel line through my tunnel and use EFI rated hose and EFI clamps on all connectors. I've never had any issues in the above mileage.
I swapped the hose out just because I was heading to California in 2019 but it really didn't show any wear that i could see.
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allamaabroad
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 12, 2022 9:10 pm    Post subject: Re: EFI Conversion Reply with quote

clonebug wrote:
I use the Stock German Regulator for my setup and it's been trouble free for 50,000 miles. Tested to 26 lbs. boost too.
I pushed a 5/16ths steel line through my tunnel and use EFI rated hose and EFI clamps on all connectors. I've never had any issues in the above mileage.
I swapped the hose out just because I was heading to California in 2019 but it really didn't show any wear that i could see.


Yup, I found that FPR after reading through your post on STF. Got it ordered, and will likely do an almost identical fuel system to what you have.

Does the beetle FPR actually increase pressure when on boost? If so, that's pretty neat!
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clonebug
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 12, 2022 9:43 pm    Post subject: Re: EFI Conversion Reply with quote

allamaabroad wrote:
clonebug wrote:
I use the Stock German Regulator for my setup and it's been trouble free for 50,000 miles. Tested to 26 lbs. boost too.
I pushed a 5/16ths steel line through my tunnel and use EFI rated hose and EFI clamps on all connectors. I've never had any issues in the above mileage.
I swapped the hose out just because I was heading to California in 2019 but it really didn't show any wear that i could see.


Yup, I found that FPR after reading through your post on STF. Got it ordered, and will likely do an almost identical fuel system to what you have.

Does the beetle FPR actually increase pressure when on boost? If so, that's pretty neat!


The stock German Regulator has a vacuum port on it so when it sees boost it will increase pressure at a 1:1 ratio. Just connect it from a port on the intake below the throttle body.
I've never had any issue with fuel delivery using a 5/16ths feed line and the stock line for return.
The German regulator works best with those sizes since that is how it comes from the factory.
5/16ths or 8 mm from the fuel rail and 6 mm or 1/4 inch to the return side.

I can attest that it will support at least 226 crank hp.
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vwracerdave wrote:

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Paul.H wrote:
That one line on that chart is probably better info than you can get from this place in a month



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Water/Alcohol Injection
Audi TT intercooler
Upgraded to MS3Pro-Evo
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 13, 2022 3:39 am    Post subject: Re: EFI Conversion Reply with quote

I'm using a Malpassi regulator , so far so good . I did have issues with the first fuel pump I used (Raceworks EFP 506) it was overkill but I wanted the option to use E85 if I wanted .
it was noisy and seized after a few days , pulling it apart ,the 4 screws that hold the actual pump together were loose and it had just jammed . I fitted a bosch 044 instead , it was loud as well . what I worked out was having the return tee'd into the feed was causing cavitation . I re plumbed the return into the top of the tank and now the pump is quiet .

I also feel Brian's pain with cranking a few revolutions before the engine fires .
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 13, 2022 7:42 am    Post subject: Re: EFI Conversion Reply with quote

Wreck wrote:
I'm using a Malpassi regulator , so far so good . I did have issues with the first fuel pump I used (Raceworks EFP 506) it was overkill but I wanted the option to use E85 if I wanted .
it was noisy and seized after a few days , pulling it apart ,the 4 screws that hold the actual pump together were loose and it had just jammed . I fitted a bosch 044 instead , it was loud as well . what I worked out was having the return tee'd into the feed was causing cavitation . I re plumbed the return into the top of the tank and now the pump is quiet .

I also feel Brian's pain with cranking a few revolutions before the engine fires .


There is a setting in Tunerstudio that allows you to cut that down if desired.
Default is 3 revolutions...I think.
It does take at least one revolution for the tooth count to sync.

I found some of the starting is caused by cranking and prime settings.
The default settings are too much for a VW engine.
With my engine since I don't have an IAC valve at the moment I need to give it about 4% open on the TPS to get enough air to fire the engine. Pushing the throttle open before cranking will help it start quicker I found.

My project right now is to install a Peugeot IAC valve on my custom intake. Real Estate is a big challenge but I finally have it tacked to the intake and am waiting for the wiring harness and plug to make sure that fits. I will then finish weld it and test it out before starting my winter upgrade.


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vwracerdave wrote:

Take a good long look in the mirror and report back on what you see.


Paul.H wrote:
That one line on that chart is probably better info than you can get from this place in a month



My Megasquirt Fuel Injection Turbo Buggy Build
Water/Alcohol Injection
Audi TT intercooler
Upgraded to MS3Pro-Evo
EcuMaster PMU16
ECUMaster ADU5 Digital Dash


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 13, 2022 1:35 pm    Post subject: Re: EFI Conversion Reply with quote

[/quote]

There is a setting in Tunerstudio that allows you to cut that down if desired.
Default is 3 revolutions...I think.
It does take at least one revolution for the tooth count to sync.

I found some of the starting is caused by cranking and prime settings.
The default settings are too much for a VW engine.
With my engine since I don't have an IAC valve at the moment I need to give it about 4% open on the TPS to get enough air to fire the engine. Pushing the throttle open before cranking will help it start quicker I found.
][/quote]


I've played with the cranking , from 0 to 1 , also what doesn't help is I have a reduction starter on a big high comp , big cam engine that is not fast to spin over . I'm still tinkering with the cranking enrichment, it fires up pretty easy with a little throttle . I'm lucky that I don't have big altitude and temp variations .
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 13, 2022 2:18 pm    Post subject: Re: EFI Conversion Reply with quote

Wreck wrote:

I've played with the cranking , from 0 to 1 , also what doesn't help is I have a reduction starter on a big high comp , big cam engine that is not fast to spin over . I'm still tinkering with the cranking enrichment, it fires up pretty easy with a little throttle . I'm lucky that I don't have big altitude and temp variations .


The X and Y scales are way overkill for me. I've cut them down to more realistic temps in my area.
Minus 40*F. is not something I'll ever see or drive my buggy in so I have rescaled to about 20*F.

I've taken at least half the fuel out of the crank and prime to also fix it. I found if you need to give it throttle to start it usually means it's on the verge of flooding.
I highlight the whole table and start bumping it down a couple clicks on every cold start.
I have it to the point that I can fire it up and back right out of the garage without any warmup if I need to.
I'm interested to see what level of tuning fun the IAC vlave will add to it.
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vwracerdave wrote:

Take a good long look in the mirror and report back on what you see.


Paul.H wrote:
That one line on that chart is probably better info than you can get from this place in a month



My Megasquirt Fuel Injection Turbo Buggy Build
Water/Alcohol Injection
Audi TT intercooler
Upgraded to MS3Pro-Evo
EcuMaster PMU16
ECUMaster ADU5 Digital Dash


http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=127936
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 14, 2022 7:31 am    Post subject: Re: EFI Conversion Reply with quote

Clonebug, this is absolutely priceless information for anyone setting up an aftermarket FI system to actually drive it regularly! I have been following these conversions for some time now and wondering about how they cold start and what is involved. It also explains why no modern vehicle I have driven to date starts as quickly as our old points and carbs engines of bygone days.

I also have been considering two changes to my sand rail, EFI and crank trigger for better fuel control and ignition but also a hand crank to start it in remote locations in the case of a starter/ battery failure. I know now that the two are not and never will be compatible. It's one or the other.

Thanks for once again sharing your firsthand knowledge.
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 14, 2022 11:36 pm    Post subject: Re: EFI Conversion Reply with quote

Well I guess this is gonna turn into a bit of a build thread now? Parts are coming in, so I'm going all in.

Throttle bodies came in today, they are the 40 mm SherryBerg idf style throttle bodies. Overall, I'd say I'm pretty impressed with what $90 a pop got me. The casting is decent and they have have a decent amount of weight to them, machine work is decent, a quick check with my dial bore gauge shows that bores are surprisingly round. A nice detail added to the product is that it has a metallic epoxy coating on the exterior. I found this to be a really nice touch as these means the castings won't suck up oil and should always be easy to clean.

As far as overcoming the things that are wrong with them:

For throttle arms, I've started drawing up some new throttle arms in CAD that will replace the included ones. These will likely be made out of 1/2" aluminum plate and laser cut and saw cut down to size. These throttle arms will have a 8mm D shaft with a locking grub screw and incorporate the throttle stop and threaded holes for ball studs for my CSP linkage. Geometry will be modeled off of the CSP throttle arms.

As far as the tops of the throttle bodies go, I plan to drill and tap the upper mounting holes to accept m6 hardware, then laser cut some 1/2" flange spacers my CB filter bases will fit and clear the fuel rail

Finally, I did notice the lateral play that the shafts have when fully open. Although this isn't a huge deal, it seems that this could cause the throttle blades and bores to wear much quicker. I've done some disassembly and I believe I know where the play is coming from and I have some decent ideas on how to remedy it.


I said this earlier, but I also scored a new set of 270cc RC injectors, and they fit the throttle bodies perfectly.

Now to patiently wait until Black Friday to order some engine management goodies Smile
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2022 6:57 pm    Post subject: Re: EFI Conversion Reply with quote

allamaabroad wrote:
Well I guess this is gonna turn into a bit of a build thread now? Parts are coming in, so I'm going all in.

(trimmed)



Awesome, start a thread to document your progress (or just keep posting here in this thread).

I'm interested in following along on the updates you make to them. I will agree with your statement that you get a lot for the $90 each, but hold by my original position that you'll need to put some work into them (which you seem to have a good handle on based on your comments).

If you end up making some nice linkage arms and air cleaner bases, you might consider making some extra sets. Could be a good little side hustle selling some improved parts for these aimed at VW applications, and help funnel a little extra $$ back into your project.

Keep us posted!
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2022 7:01 pm    Post subject: Re: EFI Conversion Reply with quote

allamaabroad wrote:
Now to patiently wait until Black Friday to order some engine management goodies Smile


PS: If you are not already aware (but sounds like you might be) DIYAutotune typically does a 10% off sale for Megasquirt hardware for black friday, if you're still thinking the Microsquirt route. You might have to be subscribed to their mailing list to the discount info, but they have done the sale the past several years.
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 16, 2022 11:14 pm    Post subject: Re: EFI Conversion Reply with quote

Vee Dub Nut wrote:
allamaabroad wrote:
Well I guess this is gonna turn into a bit of a build thread now? Parts are coming in, so I'm going all in.

(trimmed)



Awesome, start a thread to document your progress (or just keep posting here in this thread).

I'm interested in following along on the updates you make to them. I will agree with your statement that you get a lot for the $90 each, but hold by my original position that you'll need to put some work into them (which you seem to have a good handle on based on your comments).

If you end up making some nice linkage arms and air cleaner bases, you might consider making some extra sets. Could be a good little side hustle selling some improved parts for these aimed at VW applications, and help funnel a little extra $$ back into your project.

Keep us posted!


I'm pretty confident that i can get these TBs to work just as well as the pricier units, I'll be sure to detail what all I'm doing to them as parts come in. I plan on installing fully sealed ball bearings (should be a super simple modification) which will provide a way to locate the shafts laterally using bearing retaining compound, getting rid of the lateral play that the shafts have at full throttle.

I need to check the CB filter base fitment, but it looks like it needs to be spaced up about .560" to clear the fuel rails. The fuel rail is actually sitting roughly .100" higher than it needs to for standard length Bosch EV1 style injectors, so spacer flanges cut from 1/2" aluminum plate should be just right.

I've got the new throttle arm design pretty well fleshed out, it'll be made out of laser-cut 1/4" aluminum plate and incorporate the throttle stop into it. Should be a super solid set up.

Depending on how well this turns out, It could definitely be a possibility for me to get some extras made of whatever part/modifications I end up making. I'll just have to see what level of interest there is (if any)

And yes, I'm aware of their Black Friday sale and that's precisely why I'll be ordering my Microsquirt stuff next week. I may also be ordering a trigger wheel from them, I have to see how much it would cost to get a custom one laser cut.

Hopefully I'll get some time tomorrow to do a bit of work on these TB's and post up some pictures.
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 17, 2022 12:21 am    Post subject: Re: EFI Conversion Reply with quote

Rixr wrote:
im in a similar situation , started a restomod of a 74' bus , planning a 2850cc big bore stroker with aftermarket EFI , was looking at a haltec elite 750 ( one step down from motec ) but this will be 2200 aus ( Australia ) just for the ecu , full wiring harness , relays & fusebox & nothing else ...

But damn those microsquirt ecu is really cheap , tho a bit basic - good if on a budget , be good to see what other ones they do

Have you though about having just one throttle body with TPS ( works out alot cheaper ) keeping the idf manifolds & running a simple intake manifold like the old injected porsche 912/2.0 ??
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You mean something like this, a modified Porsche 914/912 to fit in a bus.
I get great performance and fuel economy


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 17, 2022 2:34 am    Post subject: Re: EFI Conversion Reply with quote

Had you ever thought of fitting two weber32/36 progressives, they were designed to compete with Bosch FI, they actually gave better overall performance than the bosch FI at the time , and are very good on fuel economy they just wern't good enough for modern tick over pollution levels.
You would have to make your own 2to1to2 admission manifold and throttle linkages ,unless you could find some old stock or second hand kits.
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 17, 2022 2:49 pm    Post subject: Re: EFI Conversion Reply with quote

Wreck wrote:
I'm using a Malpassi regulator , so far so good . I did have issues with the first fuel pump I used (Raceworks EFP 506) it was overkill but I wanted the option to use E85 if I wanted .
it was noisy and seized after a few days , pulling it apart ,the 4 screws that hold the actual pump together were loose and it had just jammed . I fitted a bosch 044 instead , it was loud as well . what I worked out was having the return tee'd into the feed was causing cavitation . I re plumbed the return into the top of the tank and now the pump is quiet .

I also feel Brian's pain with cranking a few revolutions before the engine fires .


Did you actually use a "Tee" or a "Y" fitting when plumbing return into the feed line to the 044?

Use of a Tee is known to cause cavitation . More accurately a Tee cause turbulence at the junction....which causes inlet issues....which is what causes cavitation in the pump.

Vw, Audi and others specifically use a "Y" fitting for return to feed junctions. You may also need a small plenum chamber at the junction on some set ups. Ray
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 17, 2022 7:14 pm    Post subject: Re: EFI Conversion Reply with quote

I used a Tee at the tank fitting . A brass 90 degree 1/4 NPT to 1/2” barb fitting , I drilled and tapped a 1/8 NPT 1/4” barb into the fitting , 180 degrees from the 1/2” barb. If that makes any sense !

I wondered if the 1/4 NPT fitting was too restrictive.
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 28, 2022 9:48 am    Post subject: Re: EFI Conversion Reply with quote

I’m really interested in seeing how these China TBs work out for you.

Thinking of going this way myself.

I have different CB manifolds/cleaners/bases/hats here to mock up with different motors and shrouds.

Let me know if you need measurements.

I’d be happy to pay for some linkage or filter base parts you fab up.
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 30, 2022 1:11 am    Post subject: Re: EFI Conversion Reply with quote

Clatter wrote:
I’m really interested in seeing how these China TBs work out for you.

Thinking of going this way myself.

I have different CB manifolds/cleaners/bases/hats here to mock up with different motors and shrouds.

Let me know if you need measurements.

I’d be happy to pay for some linkage or filter base parts you fab up.


Awesome! I promise I have been working on this, just my spare time has been a little limited with school recently. I’ve made some good progress on design and I have almost all the parts collected now, coming in way under budget too Smile

Everything I’m designing is based around being laser/water jet cut, meaning it all is based around 2D parts. This will help me greatly reduce the cost of these parts while still having the accuracy of machined parts.

I’ve fixed nearly all the problems with the TB’s, I’ll plan on updating this tomorrow with my CAD assemblies and some documentation on what I’ve done with the TBs. So far it’s all been very simple and cheap to do.


Clatter, Ill definitely let you know if I need any measurements. I still have a CB linkage, and if I get enough interest I can certainly adapt all these parts to the CB linkage easily enough.
_________________
Dennis - 1973 Super Beetle ('16-'21)
Debbie- 1970 Baywindow Bus ('21 - Present)
Tin top camper/adventure bus

2180 TW: CNC Panchitos, Beehives Done Right, Web 163, Ultralight Lifters, 1.3 Rockers, CSP Python, Custom Speeduino EFI Conversion with 40mm Throttle Bodies

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I have a really hard time leaving things alone...

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allamaabroad
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Joined: September 22, 2016
Posts: 560
Location: South Jordan, Utah
allamaabroad is offline 

PostPosted: Thu Dec 01, 2022 1:48 am    Post subject: Re: EFI Conversion Reply with quote

Alrighty, here's an update for those of you that have been interested. As I said earlier, I've been a little swamped with school the past couple weeks, but I've made some good progress on all of this.

Depending on how long this gets, these posts may get split up into topics.

First off, throttle bodies. These are where I think I've made the most interesting progress.

Here's how they come out of the box:

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Quite honestly, these are possibly the most impressive thing I've received for a chinese knockoff. Machining is decent, throttle plates fit the bores very well, and overall the finish is much better than I expected. But there are some flaws with these...


To recap, there's three or four somewhat fatal flaws with these throttle bodies.
1. Included linkage arms are pretty useless, and no other off the shelf arms will fit.
2. Throttle shafts have some nasty lateral play at full throttle.
3. Throttle Position Sensors are essentially NLA
4. Standard IDF filter bases (CB, EMPI, CSP) don't fit due to the position of the fuel rails, and the top mounting flange is sorta incorrect.

Here's what I've figured out:
1. Aluminum linkage arms purpose built for VW applications (In my case, a CSP Bellcrank Linkage.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


These will be made from 1/4" aluminum with a set screw to lock the arm onto the shaft. The throttle stop will be an M6 button head screw.

2. Lateral Play. Upon disassembly of these, I discovered that the only thing positioning the shaft laterally was the throttle plates.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Less than ideal for sure. I then noticed that the green seals on the end of the shafts were a standard size, 8X16X4 mm, and could easily be replaced by a ball bearing, 8X16X5 mm, which is easily found at any RC Hobby Shop. So I ran out and picked up 2 pairs;

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


They fit snug in the seal bores, and after applying a dab of retaining compound between the shaft and the inner race of the bearing, the shaft is now positively located and the lateral play is gone.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


This modification was super simple, cost about $12, and sorta killed 2 birds with one stone by eliminating the shaft play and also converting the shafts from bronze bushings + seals to bronze bushings + fully sealed ball bearings.
Nice.

Throttle Position Sensor. This one was pretty easy to figure out. A TPS from an early to mid 2000's BMW fits perfectly, but it's clocked wrong. The easy solution is creating a bracket to clock the sensor correctly for the TB. This is my back up plan, I may investigate reclocking the sensor itself to make it fit without a bracket. Depends on how many sensors I can find at pick n pull.

4. Air filter mounting. The main issue here is interference with the fuel rail. After some measuring and eyeballing, I concluded that the interference could be avoided by adding a 1/2" spacer, like so:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Additionally, the bolt pattern on these TB's are slightly too narrow, and also use m4 studs instead of m6. I'll be drilling and tapping the holes for m6, and widening the bolt pattern as much as possible in the process to hopefully get it to match standard IDF bolt pattern.


Although it did take me 2 or 3 weeks to do all of this, I really only have maybe an hour and a half into the throttle bodies, and an additional $50 or so including a used TPS sensor, bringing the total up to $245 for the throttle bodies. Not bad.

Now onto other stuff I've been working on.
I have a connection with a local Water Jet/ Laser Cut company, and hat's how all of my custom parts will be manufactured. Because of this, everything is being designed based around being laser cut, meaning it's essentially designed in 2D.

With that in mind, I decided it would be best to design and manufacture my own trigger wheel and crank sensor set up.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Trigger wheel is made up of 3 pieces that will be pinned together using 4 1/8" roll pins, then the crank pulley bolt goes through the center to hold it all together. This design ensures that the trigger wheel stays concentric to the crankshaft and aligned properly as well.

Manufacturing it in 3 pieces drastically cut down the price of it, to the point where making this is cheaper than buying a universal 36-1 wheel from DIYAutotune.

Crank sensor mount is still a work in progress, but its close to being finished. This is designed around mounting to the studs for the alternator stand, since I have a fuel injection case with no fuel pump studs.

Most importantly, once this is all said and done, my trigger wheel and sensor setup will cost me about 1/3 the price of CB or Dubshop's setups, uses a crank sensor that can be found at any FLAPS for ~$25, and require no machining.

Anyways, I'm super excited with how this project has been turning out. I'm an engineering student, so I love doing this kind of work, and nothing is more exciting than seeing the finished product.

If anyone is interested in getting some of these parts for themselves, feel free to shoot me a message. I'll be sending everything off to get cut in a few days and the quantity discount on parts is pretty killer. The linkage arms shown here are designed for bell crank linkages, but I also designed one with the geometry for crossbar linkages (Specifically CB's)

Cheers!
_________________
Dennis - 1973 Super Beetle ('16-'21)
Debbie- 1970 Baywindow Bus ('21 - Present)
Tin top camper/adventure bus

2180 TW: CNC Panchitos, Beehives Done Right, Web 163, Ultralight Lifters, 1.3 Rockers, CSP Python, Custom Speeduino EFI Conversion with 40mm Throttle Bodies

Distributors are lame

I have a really hard time leaving things alone...

Innovative and affordable engine management systems and EFI conversions for your Vintage VW
Visit https://debbiesaircooled.com/
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