Vanagon soft clutch and shifting problems

[mosttope]

Vehicle: 1982 Westfalia with 2.5 Subaru & 6 rib VW transmission

In July of this year, I was driving on the interstate and had to slam on my brakes for a sudden traffic incident, and getting the van back in gear was really tough it felt like I had to force it into first gear. the other 3 gears needed more force to get into as well and once I got off the interstate the clutch petal was much softer than it has always been. I drove my van an additional 3 hours to my friend's place where I stored it until September. When I got my van out of storage I drove it back to LA and then drove it around town daily for the next couple of months, used the interstate a few times but not for a super long time.

Just yesterday I drove it from LA to Vegas and when I'd stop after being on the interstate the clutch would again be soft and the gears would be extremely difficult to get into. I would have to force them quite hard until it would pop in and it got worse as the day progressed. The reservoir is full and I haven't seen any leaks. The slave cylinder was replaced about 5 years ago also.

So, in conclusion, the van has been shifting fine around town and the clutch pedal feels relatively normal but if I get on the interstate for an hour+ shifting becomes difficult and clutch pedal is soft. Any ideas on what it could be?

[Sodo]

Check your brake fluid level in the reservoir.
The clutch and brake share the same reservoir.
The reservoir is just ahead of your speedometer under the dash cover (speedo cover).


Link

You can see the brake&clutch fluid reservoir in ^^this video at 1:02^^

Sorry the video doesn't show how to get the cover off the dash.
Be sure to ask Qs, before you break it.
Repair parts are no longer available.
Do not break the cover by just yanking on it.
That's the old method, back in the old days when you could bust stuff then actually find a used replacement.
That horse has left the barn.

OK assuming you can get the speedo cover off....
Top up the fluid reservoir if its low, of course.

If your clutch took a gulp of air, the air bubble might be in the clutch master cylinder.
Bump the pedal down, and release, just the top one inch, many times.
The little air ejector port at the top of the pedal stroke might eject the bubble (with luck).
By "many times" I mean like 20 times.
If that doesn't work try 20 bumps again later.

By "bump" I mean hit the pedal with your fist.
Or foot.
But quick, and just the top one inch.

The next step is to go under the van and bleed the slave cylinder.
If you don't know how to do this, you can get help here, lots of members will help you.
Bleeding the clutch can be done easier with two people, but there are solo methods too.

If your reservoir was low, that suggests either a current LEAK, or this van has had no brake or clutch service in a long time.
Either way, it's time for a full hydraulic checkup.
If it's all good but the fluid is dark, you KNOW it's been a long time so just have the fluid changed.

You're way better off finding a genuine Vanagon mechanic, than taking it to a normal mechanic shop.
Hopefully the DIY suggestions above get you going, but keep an ear out for a 'genuine' vanagon shop.
_________________


'90 Westy EJ25, 2Peloquins, 3knobs, pressure-oiled GT mainshaft, filtered, cooled gearbox
'87 Tintop w 47k 53k, '12 SmallCar EJ25, cooled filtered gearbox
....KTMs, GasGas, SPOT mtb

[MsTaboo]

[Howesight]

Some years ago, I noticed that in cold weather, the clutch pedal on our 1986 Syncro would go almost to the floor before starting or warming the vehicle. I thought (correctly, it turned out) that the clutch master cylinder or slave cylinder was getting tired. At that time, I could pump the clutch pedal a few times and then get the clutch to fully release. By summer that same year, the system failed fully. I replaced the master cylinder, but that did not improve things. I then replaced the slave cylinder (a bit more difficult on a Syncro than a 2WD) and that cured the problem.

The point seems to be that worn or old seals and o-rings inside the VW master and slave cylinders sometimes reveal that they are old and worn in cold conditions.
_________________
'86 Syncro Westy SVX

[dobryan]

^^^^^ All good advice.
_________________
Dave O
'87 Westy w/ 2002 Subaru EJ25 and Peloquin TBD

"To travel hopefully is a better thing than to arrive." Robert Louis Stevenson

MD>Canada>AK>WA>OR>CA>AZ>UT>WY>SD
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=620646

Building a bus for travel in Europe (euroBus)
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=695371

The Western Syncro build
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=746794

[space]

I bet the hard braking blew out the seals in the master
Has ur brake pedal pressure changed?
_________________
82 westy
w:
2.5 JDM Subie
Rear discs

[valvecovergasket]

does the shifting improve, or the clutch pedal firm up, if you pump it a handful of times before attempting to shift?
_________________
MegaSquirt resource - SpitfireEFI.com

gone, but not forgotten: '83 tdi westy - swap thread

[Wildthings]

Probably time to just replace the slave cylinder as it can suck air past the seals when you release the pedal, or at least that is the theory. In my experience the clutch master will last about twice as long as a slave will, so you might consider changing it as well depending on what you know if its history.

The clutch system needs its fluid changed every few years just like the brakes do.

[MarkWard]

Hasn't been back since his post. Great first post though. Welcome to the Samba if you come back at some point to retrieve your advice.

You did not mention if you are using an adapter plate to mount your subaru to the Vanagon transaxle or are using an aftermarket bellhousing for Subaru installs. Might make a difference in the diagnosis. Unlikely the panic stop caused the original problem.
_________________
☮️

[mosttope]

Sorry for the delayed reply everyone. I drove the van the following day and Sodo's advice on pumping the clutch did make it shift normally without force. I am storing it for the whole month of December while I travel for the holidays but when I get it in January I'll try to do a fluid change. I had a rebuilt transmission put in 2018, as well as a slave cylinder, I haven't done a fluid change since then.

Space, brake pedal pressure hasn't change that I've noticed.

Valvecovergasket, shifting improves when pumped up but the pedal is still much softer than normal.

MarkWard, I have the small car adapter

[Sodo]

Thanks for checking in.
Members wanna know.

Good news on the air ejection.
So you checked the fluid level in the reservoir too, right?
It makes a lot of sense to also bleed the slave.

I don't think you have to change the brake fluid if it was all new in 2018.
Especially if it's still "clear".
But you can, and it will raise you to a higher echelon of vehicle maintenance.
Some people change it every two years.
I don't know what benefit they get.
Cleaner fluid is better, stuff will last longer, but you will have more hazmat to dispose of properly.

Do you know what 'year' your smallcar bellhousing is?
There are some significant concerns regarding the first version Smallcar bellhousing made in 2009-2011.
Here's one way to tell by measuring it: 12mm or 20mm.
_________________


'90 Westy EJ25, 2Peloquins, 3knobs, pressure-oiled GT mainshaft, filtered, cooled gearbox
'87 Tintop w 47k 53k, '12 SmallCar EJ25, cooled filtered gearbox
....KTMs, GasGas, SPOT mtb