oil temp sender and (manually operated] throttle ring questions

[finster]

you're looking for something like this
https://www.justkampers.com/vdo-oil-temperature-ga...-1979.html
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"we're here on Earth to fart around" kurt vonnegut

nothing lasts, nothing is finished, and nothing is perfect...

[herbie1200]

[petrol punk]

Having a manually controlled venturi ring seems like a way to overheat by forgetting to close it. The heads will probably heat up faster than the oil so you may be cooking the heads before the oil comes up to temp. The stale air setup really isn't too bad to set up, I would buy all the parts and set a weekend aside to remove the engine and install the thermostat, venturi ring and stuff. I think I did it over a weekend like that.
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36hp '56 European DeLuxe oval, '70 bug 1835cc dual 36DRLA, and a '98 4x4 5spd single cab Tacoma

[scottyrocks]

[scottyrocks]

[scottyrocks]

I want to get an idea of the temperature my engine runs at before proceeding any further.

I just dropped a deep-fry thermometer into the oil dipstick hole. I chose this one because of the length. In the sizes they make these things, this 'standard' length (12") is the only one that's not too long or short.

Sort of tight confines because of the fan belt. Tough to find something that fits perfectly. This works, although I had to tie it to the breather tube so that it doesn't touch the fan belt.

I'm gonna drive the car tomorrow and check the belt frequently, as well as the temperature on the gauge.

I tested it as instructed on the packaging. It is spot-on in some boiling water.
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“If you care for a thing long enough, it takes on a life of its own, doesn't it? Mending old things, preserving them, looking after them – on some level there's no rational grounds for it.”
– D. Tartt, 'The Goldfinch'

[herbie1200]

[scottyrocks]

Before going any further with any of this, I wanted to know my oil temp in this weather.

With the thermometer I installed in the oil dipstick hole (see above) and tied off so as not to contact the fan belt, I did a 30 minute drive on both highway and local streets. The air temp was 44*F.

When I got home I checked the temp gauge. 140*F. Not even close to operating temperature.

I can kick the high idle down about a minute after starting the car at cold air temperatures. It runs smoothly without stumbling. What I am concerned about is not having enough heat to boil residue out of the engine oil.

Tons of people say that thermostat systems are not necessary. Maybe so in hot weather, but anywhere it gets cold, quick warm up to operating temperature requires them. And if I want to drive this car with a clear conscience during the 'other' 6 months of the year, they'll have to be installed.
_________________
“If you care for a thing long enough, it takes on a life of its own, doesn't it? Mending old things, preserving them, looking after them – on some level there's no rational grounds for it.”
– D. Tartt, 'The Goldfinch'

[herbie1200]

In this winter, here in Italy, my 1200cc with all thermostat parts in place and working, the air thermostat never opens fully, neither in city driving or higway.

Oil after 20..30 minutes goes on 180°F, only on the higway it raises up to 220°F.

Those are the correct working temperatures.

Mineral oil 15W40, all tins in place.

[scottyrocks]

[herbie1200]

Yes.

There is another thread, if I remember in the performance forum.

A clever guy put a position sender on the thermostat lever, and an air temperature sensor near the thermostat, and after a lot of travel in various conditions posted the readings in a graphic arrangement.

The interesting thing was that the thermostat continuosly varies its position to mantain the same air temperature. Only in summer driving the thermostat sometimes fully opens.

This is the most important proof about the necessity of a well working thermostatic system.

Remember that thermostat, managing the airflow, also helps to keep the correct oil temperature: when closed only a small airflow passes throung the oil cooler, so the oil is cooled only when engine is hot.

Those engines are very well designed to operate in both arctic and tropical climates, a necessity for a "world car".
This is the thread:

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=705328

[scottyrocks]

I am looking at that thread now, and this post by Steve Arndt:

<<The oil warms up very slow. You can have 300 degree or higher head temps in 2 minutes from cold startup and still have 50 degree oil (all numbers in F degrees). The amount of heat transfer due to conduction from the oil sump, through the bracket, to the thermostat is negligible >>

has given me a better grasp of what petrol punk wrote in this thread, and why my manually adjustable venturi ring would have failed in practice:

<< The heads will probably heat up faster than the oil so you may be cooking the heads before the oil comes up to temp. >>

Bad Scotty. Bad bad Scotty.
_________________
“If you care for a thing long enough, it takes on a life of its own, doesn't it? Mending old things, preserving them, looking after them – on some level there's no rational grounds for it.”
– D. Tartt, 'The Goldfinch'

[scottyrocks]

[scottyrocks]

[scottyrocks]

I'm bumping this on the chance that someone has a 40hp system available.
_________________
“If you care for a thing long enough, it takes on a life of its own, doesn't it? Mending old things, preserving them, looking after them – on some level there's no rational grounds for it.”
– D. Tartt, 'The Goldfinch'

[Pruneman99]

The ironic thing is 1,000's of those probably got tossed in the trash over the years. Hopefully one will find you soon.

[Mr. Mike]

[scottyrocks]

[scottyrocks]

[EverettB]