Been a few years, "stock OE" China head observations

[Frank Bassman]

30k miles and no compression loss, overheating, dropped seats or crazy valve adjustment variation. Almost zero lash variation from break-in, actually.

When can I expect to grenade?

Share your china OE head experiences, from actual use, not aftermarket parts hatred.


-Frank

[Clatter]

“China Head” has variants.
Which are yours?

-and-
Do you _know_ your valve guides are still tight in the heads?
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Bus Motor Build

What’s That Noise?!?

[modok]

It seems at least some of the china heads are good castings. That's great.
I was very sceptical at first, but, glad I was wrong.

[Brian_e]

I have been using china aa500's on lots of engines now.

I have over 30k hard miles on my 2332cc in my baywindow. 9.2cr, .038" deck, and lots of 2500+ mile road trips. I did replace the guides, but the seats, and valves are straight from AA. Last two times I checked the valves, they were all spot on.

Brian
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www.type-emotorsports.com

[Frank Bassman]

Ah we have an audience!

I quite literally mean the ones that come in a white and blue box called "OE" Brand. The ones that were supposed to be the absolute bottom shelf stock basic replacements.

Background: purchased from car craft about 5 years ago. Taken apart to check em out... guides nice and tight on the valve stems, flash was nonexistent. And surprise! They had a 3 angle valve job!

Checked for seal at buddy's shop who rebuilds all sorts of heads, checked out great. No obvious funny business. Also they have Osvat valves. Not stainless.

ONLY thing they did not have was the tiny square air deflectors. Added from junk vw heads. I think I paid... about 130 per head back then?

I don't know that the valve guides are doing the polka in their bores but I also have no reason to believe they are. I won't take em apart to check either.


I have heard great things about AA heads. Mine are definitely NOT AA heads.

-Frank

[calvinater]

if i recall correctly
Zundfolge thought the OEM heads were a good deal for budget stock heads.
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"Albatross"!

[Alstrup]

Myt observations.
Castings are generally good, no matter the brand, even Empi. The valves on the other hand are often crap, BIG TIME! Especially the SS ones. The sock type valves are better. I have seen and witnessed several inake valves simply loose the heads after down to 800 km.
When they are on the agenda I buy them bare and install the hardware I want.
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https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=435993

[jimmyhoffa]

My first 1915 I built for my 1974 Chenowth had those exact heads, the "OE" ones in the blue box with the red stripe graphic. Ran them offroad, thermally shocked them in water crossings, SURELY either grossly overheated them on hillclimbs or nearly grossly overheated them. I also legalized the Chenowth and commuted in the car for a bit before building my next engine. Sold the engine running and it's still running in a road legal buggy today.
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1974 Chenowth 2RL #1244 Street Legal
My other car isn't ridiculous.

[jimmyhoffa]

My first 1915 I built for my 1974 Chenowth had those exact heads, the "OE" ones in the blue box with the red stripe graphic. Ran them offroad, thermally shocked them in water crossings, SURELY either grossly overheated them on hillclimbs or nearly grossly overheated them. I also legalized the Chenowth and commuted in the car for a bit before building my next engine. Sold the engine running and it's still running in a road legal buggy today.
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1974 Chenowth 2RL #1244 Street Legal
My other car isn't ridiculous.

[Zundfolge1432]

[Infidel]

I recently bought a pair of the OE heads. I found that the exhaust valves in one of the heads were 35s, completely wrong valves. Vendor immediately send me a pair of Kuhltek heads - which look identical to the OE heads. At least the valves are the right size this time. Don't like how they seat, but I'm not super familiar with them. I am having trouble getting this rebuilt engine to run right, but so far suspect timing and carb. Not sure if my issues could be caused by bad heads/valves.

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1972 Ghia

[AlteWagen]

personally I try to stay away from kuhltech heads since they had an issue a few years back with seizing valve guides. I think the issue was they didnt ream the guide after installing it. Seems the valves 'felt' ok when lightly inspected but once the head heated up seizeorama. Owners kept wondering why they would pop a pushrod once in a while. Tow the car home, reinstall the pushrod and would start up with no issue. Drive it up a hill or stomp on it a bit and you hear a backfire and loose power. Repeat.

Maybe they are better now post pandemic but Id still check them and get better valves while you are at it.
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[Frank Bassman]

Well it seems we have a mixed bag! I will consider myself lucky and tell myself that if my engine has not self destructed yet, it will do so in about 70k!

Until then I will drive worry free!
Very interesting picture of the valve situation... must have been built during some local holiday celebration. Yikes!

-Frank

[Ohio Tom]

[Onceler]

I ran 12lbs. Through a set 10 years ago for a year, no issues.
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1972 Karmann Ghia