What type of heads do I need for a 1776cc build up?!

[Big Moe]

Good morning guys,

So going at it again after 12 years! I'm currently buying the parts I need for a 1776 build up on Scat.
I just don't know the size bore I need for that size piston.

So I have the following questions:

1) what size is the bore for the the regular 1600cc d/p?

2) and what size bore on the heads do I get for a 1776cc?
A) 85.5mm
B) 92mm
C) 94mm

Thank you yall
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Never give up, because your VW will never give up on you!!!!!!!!

[sled]

90.5 = 1776cc
92 (thick wall) = 1835cc
94 = 1915cc

paired with stock 69mm crank of course.
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drive your split.

[Brian_e]

Just a heads up....there are MUCH better heads available than a set of Scat "pro-stock" heads. Especially for a small 1776. Not sure if you are stuck on Scat parts, but quite a bit has changed in the last 12-15 years for parts quality and availability.

Why don't you list what you are trying to do with this thing?

-What is it going in?
-Are you wanting to keep the heater boxes?
-What kind of carb/carbs?
-What exhaust?
-What are you hoping to rev the RPM to?
-Are you wanting a stop light racer, or a cross country driver?

What I am getting at is tossing a set of "big valve" heads on a little 1776 will make for a gutless little engine. A set of properly built 35x32 or 37x32 heads will make more power over a wider RPM range, and be FAR more pleasant to drive.
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[DesertSasquatchXploration]

I have stock valve heads on my 1776 with a nice 3 angle valve job happy little motor. I would put them in the hands of a experienced porting guy before buying big valve heads

[mark tucker]

I would atleasy add a stroker crank to go with it and bump the power up. it's been 10 years since Ive seen those scat heads, back then for the cost they were pretty nice. I did a few motors that used them. now days I would go the pan of cheetos route unless there out of $$ range from the scats.

[Big Moe]

Wow....okay, so things have definitely changed.

So I'm probably going to put all the stuff I had behind and start new.

I have a few cases, and a have a set of 1641cc mahle pistons.

I'm trying to build an engine with my son as his daily driver.

Whos good now for engine parts then? Who has the best rebuild kits, the best heads and carbs?

Is Empi still low budget? 🤔

I've been out for a while 😆
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Never give up, because your VW will never give up on you!!!!!!!!

[Glenn]

[Glenn]

If you want good quality and deal with a single vendor.. it's hard to be CB's Builder's Choice kits.

https://www.cbperformance.com/Builder-s-Choice-Engine-Kits-s/116.htm

I've used them as the base for a few builds I did for customers and all the parts are high quality, the parts fit and work well together. All customers are happy with what they got.
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Glenn
74 Beetle Specs | 74 Beetle Restoration | 2180cc Engine
"You may not get what you pay for, but you always pay for what you get"

Member #1009

#BlueSquare

[Dauz]

For just heads and with a 1776, I wouldn't hesitate to order those chinese heads from carcraft, opened for 90.5s, small ports, stock ish valves, single hi-rev springs.

[Brian_e]

For a simple fun engine for a young kid, I would build this...

-Stock crank and rods, rebuilt.
-AA 90.5 A's, or 92 thick wall A's, Grant cast rings.
-New AA500 35x32 heads, blend the bowls, get a good 3+ angle valve job. Here is a link about it. The heads in the link are single ports, but the same rules apply to dual ports.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=682243&highlight=

-Cams are tough to find right now. Web is starting to get more back on the shelf. CB is still a ways out. If you can get one, a cb2239 or cb2232 is great. In a bug and 1835cc's, the Web 218/119 wouldn't be bad.
-Light 12.5lbs flywheel
-Stock heater boxes,
-CB hideout header and muffler
-Swap meet rebuilt dual kadrons, scat linkage
-Re-use all the stock OE tin.
-Cut down the stock push rods
-Stock rockers on solid shafts
-.045" deck height
-8.8:1 compression

It will go together easy, should be around 100hp. It will keep up with traffic, and pull hills, but it won't be to much to always be getting in trouble.

The biggest problem with the "kits" is the vendor has no idea what you are going to put it in, or what your driving style is. A 1915cc built for a bus is quite a bit different than a 1915cc built for a bug. I prefer to pick and choose my parts. No single vendor has all of the best parts. When I order parts for an engine, I get them from no less than 4-5 different vendors.

Brian
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[67rustavenger]

[Glenn]

[Brian_e]

Most guys behind the counter selling the parts don't know a whole lot more than the customer. They will just pick the parts with the best mark up, that might be in the ball park for the application.

CB is one of the few exceptions. Their price is higher for good reason.

For what this guy is after, I don't think he really needs a full kit. Order rebuilt stock crank and rods from DPR, get the cylinders, heads, bearings and cam from AA Performance, and a few of the small parts from CB. Have a local shop do the valve job, and balance work.

Brian
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[chrisflstf]

Brian has good reliable advice - worthwhile listening to. Also, keep the deck tight - .040 to .045 is the best

[Glenn]

[esde]

I have used Tims "super stock" heads for all small displacement builds, and they rock for the price. They are 32x37 but will do 32x35 also. Stand up guys that do top notch work

https://www.performanceworkshop.net/cylinder-heads
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Bent cranks are silent but gather no moss. I mean, ah, something like that.