110v Outlet - How do I make Water Tight?

[dentfreeimage]

Hello guys, just want to get some advice on this electrical outlet on my 71 Westy.
I installed a new panel and cut the opening for the housing.

The right side of the housing fits snug but the left has a gap.
How do you seal this area from leaking inside the van?
With the retaining metal piece in place, the gap is much smaller.

I will be installing a full cabinets set on that same side and I am concerned with this leaking inside and not being able to see it on time since the cabinets will block any access to that area.
The outlet will not be used, but I would like to conserve it to keep the original look.
I am willing remove it and weld new metal in place to guarantee a dry and leak free area.

Thanks for the advice!

[richparker]

Silicone
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’71 Westy build
Adventure thread
’65 Deluxe Build
’63 Deluxe Build

[dodger tom]

silicone would work.

here’s a place with some other ideas.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=8436334

then, there’s this. i’m sure other vendors have them, too.

http://www.busdepot.com/253070134a
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1978 Champaign Edition Westfalia
Would never find the time to keep up another classic air-cooled.

[dentfreeimage]

Thanks for the advice guys!
The Bust Depot seal you are referring is not the same shape or size.
I just ran a search on the part number and comes up as fitting Vanagon from 80 to 96. I will call them and see if they have one for early bay.

[sodbuster]

There is a rubber gasket that goes under the bezel plate on the outside. get some thin rubber sheet use the bezel plate as a template and cut a new one.

[busdaddy]

1/4" X 1" closed cell foam tape (weatherstripping) perhaps?, one layer on the inner part and a second under the trim ring.
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[metahacker]

Generally speaking, the typical "correct" choice for penetrations like that in RV & boat building is usually Butyl tape. It will last basically forever and remain pliable. Silicone will work but is not as ideal.

The butyl I cleaned off my 1978 Riviera when I replaced/refurbished all the "hookups" was still perfectly intact (and 41 years old at the time)...as was the paint and exposed edges of the cut sheetmetal underneath.

That unit in particular, however,... the Unicorn Industries "RV15" electrical inlet... was installed with a foam gasket, IIRC. You could buy gasket material, trace the flange and make your own.

I believe only the top screw locates the housing with the flange and the remaining screws around the perimeter go into the body.

I didn't find mine to be as much of a source of leakiness as I had expected, even when it was a mess.... that was in San Diego, though. If it sits in snow, I'd be pretty careful.

So yeah, you usually can't go wrong with Butyl on penetrations.... but I believe a foam gasket is the most "correct."