changing the motor oil after 20 mins of run

[borna428]

Hi all,
I just finished rebuilding my 66 VW beetle engine with new piston/cylinder, valves, cam, crankshaft, lifters and etc.
Now I need to start it for the first time and decided to use Valvoline VRT 10W30 with high ZINC.
But my main question is I was told to run the engine for 20 mins and then change the oil.

Is there a truth to that? I hate to waste $40 of oil for only 20 mins of run.

What have you guys done?

[Pruneman99]

You can "waste" $40 of oil, or $2,000 of engine. Whatever you'd like.

Use it in your lawnmower, or to lubricate squeaky hinges.

[Glenn]

Dump it... it's contaminated from the cam breakin.

$40... it's cheaper than having to rebuild it again.

BTW.. i also change my oil at 200, 500, 1000 and then 3000 on a new engine.

One more thing... dump the POS 009 distributor and get one that is matched to the carb you have. Your engine will e much happier.
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[wcfvw69]

I've also changed the oil 2-3 times before 500 miles after a rebuild. I also agree it's painful to do this now with oil companies ripping us off with their high prices per quart of oil. With that said, l agree with the other posters that it's still cheaper than rebuilding the engine again.
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[borna428]

[Glenn]

[wdfifteen]

I use the cheapest straight 30 wt oil I can get for "break in" oil. That first 100 miles is just flushing out the crap you didn't get out when you cleaned it and the metal from the parts wearing into each other. I use progressively better (more expensive) oil as I get hours on the engine and make sure it has ZPDD (zink) in it after the first flush.

[borna428]

[Pruneman99]

IMO zinc is MOST important during break-in. Everyone has their favorite flavor.

That engine looks really nice. Don't skimp out now.

[Cusser]

Maybe I'm wrong, but didn't new VWs have a paid/included oil change by the dealer at 600 miles.

Anyway, I built the 1835cc engine in my 1971 Convertible (since 1986) and the 1600cc engine in my 1970 sedan (since 2017), and I didn't change the oil in either until 600 miles, used the VW criteria. Both do have a CB Maxi2 oil pump/filter however.
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1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297

[Eric&Barb]

Fix the rear engine tin on the left side where it is bent down and get the rubber grommet in the hole the preheat tube passes thru. Grommet keeps the hose from getting cut thru by the tin.

Definitely get the vacuum advance distributor that will work with your carb and engine size. Makes a big difference for around town driving over the 009.
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[Rome]

[diablosandwich]

Dump it for sure. I built a 1300 for my 66 last year and changed oil after breaking in the cam/lifters. I could see metal in the oil.
Casey
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[67rustavenger]

This time around. I'll be using this for breakin oil.

After 20 minutes run time. It'll get dumped and refreshed with another container full.

Breaking time is 20 minutes over 2k RPM. Very the throttle opening a little.< That's what I do! YMMV
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[borna428]

[67rustavenger]

[Teeroy]

Lucas makes a additive you can put in some cheap oil. Or just use their break in oil 67rustavenger just showed, it cost less than the VR1 lately. Brad Penn has a good break in oil too, but it can be hard to find and isn't cheap either
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[Glenn]

I still have a few bottles of the original GM EOS, but they will be gone soon.
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"You may not get what you pay for, but you always pay for what you get"

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[Teeroy]

I might still have a bottle as well.
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[heimlich]

That's a nice looking engine. It looks like you took a lot of time and care with it.
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