Sanity Check: Time for new muffler and intake boots?

[SirDorfsalot]

Hello! Before I buy a bunch of new parts I wanted to check in here to see if I get any feedback.

I've been working on my 74 Type 1 Standard for a while now and I've finally got it to where I can drive it regularly enough to start getting the engine issues sorted out. I've got several issues I've been chasing:

1. I've replaced the carb with a rebuilt Solex 34-3 and a rebuilt 034 SVDA Distributor. I've messed with timing but I can't seem to get it to stay steady when when I rev the engine to 3k-ish RPMS to time it to 30 degrees. It runs pretty good but idles rough at startup and I can't seem to get any better than 20mpg. I'm suspecting vacuum leaks, possibly from the intake boots? Looks like they're easiest to replace with the motor out but I'd like to avoid that if I can as I have another car in the garage at the moment.

2. The previous owner replaced the exhaust with a header style that omitted parts of the heater boxes and changed the breast plate to omit the air filter preheat hose (this could be contributing to rough running at startup?). Its pretty rusty and just recently started dumping exhaust fumes into the cabin when I turn on the heat so something is leaking. The metal foil hoses going from the doghouse tin to the exhaust have cuts in it from the holes in the breast plate so that could be part of my exhaust smell problem?

Time to pull the whole system and replace with stock parts? Or is the fume leaks more of an issue with the heater boxes? They look OK from the outside.

3. I've got an oil leak somewhere. I think it could be as simple as its leaking from the U-shaped hose that goes from the oil fill port to the air intake box as its cracked and oily. Should I just replace that hose, add clamps, and call it good or am I looking at other issues like the oil cooler?

Here are some photos of what I'm working with:

[Eric&Barb]

If you are thinking of going to all stock anyway, then do so. IMHO that would be for the best. Hang the extractor up in the shop if it is in good enough shape to be used later if need be in a pinch, or for someone you meet that needs it.

As for the intake manifold, would at least take it apart for a good cleaning. The zones the silicone seals seat onto tend to corrode up so will probably need a good cleaning/polishing up. At that point might as well install new seal and either way new gaskets.

Stock pulley would be better also.
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In Stereo, Where Available!

[Cusser]

[Matt Wilson]

You need the heater hoses hooked up if you are using heater boxes. If the exhaust is getting replaced, a stock one needs different connectors and bits to make it all work. With the aftermarket header style, you can get/make some steel flex hose connectors between the heater box and the rear tin. I like to use the stock metal connectors and get some 50mm air duct hose.

for whatever exhaust you choose, be sure to get a full set of new gaskets and hardware. I see so many of these cars assembled without washers, and folks wonder why everything rattles apart. You can get those good copper locking manifold nuts as well.

I've also had excellent luck with the 2000deg F VHT paint. Seems to last a long time on exhaust.
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1972 Standard Beetle
1969 Baja Beetle

[SirDorfsalot]

[SirDorfsalot]

[SirDorfsalot]

[Eric&Barb]

[SirDorfsalot]

I've looked into the oil pump and I see there is a version for different cams. I might have a replacement Brazil engine so I'll have to check what I have but its on my list to look into. The extra capacity and better filtering would be worth deviating from stock.

I'll have to look into the pulley, I remember when I bought it that I had to get a different size belt than most cars so that could be because its a larger than normal pulley or that was just because I'm running an alternator. I don't remember for sure but I think I can find the email with the part number to find out.

From looking online, the silicone boots are cheaper than most of the others so I guess thats a bonus.

The kit I'm looking at may or may not have copper nuts. Are they available separately or just in the exhaust install kit?

So far here is my parts list, most of it can be had from CIP1 unless there is anything in particular on my list I should get elsewhere. See anything I'm missing?


Exhaust:
-Muffler Kit: muffler, tail pipes, tail pipe clamps, muffler install kit (clamps and gaskets)
-2x muffler to heater box clamps
-2x muffler to heater hose couplers
-2x heater hoses (aluminum or german paper hoses?)
-Warm air hose (does this also need a coupler to muffler?)
-Rear engine tin with 3 holes (used from TheSamba?)
-Small tin behind crank pulley (mine is cut up by a PO)
-Tin screws (self tapping version, I’m missing a bunch)

Leaks:
-2x Intake boots
-2x Dual Port manifold base gaskets
-carb base gasket
-u-shaped rubber hose from oil fill to air filter box
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1974 Type 1 Standard Beetle (stock-ish), 1985 Pontiac Fiero GT (3800 swapped), 2012 Honda Civic (daily)

[Cusser]

[jinx758]

Re :
Heater hoses vs tin ...

Get some 4mm or 7/32" vacuum hose. Split length wise, put around tin opening - make sure it fits tight. Wiggle heater hose through & secure with clamps on ends.
Hillbilly engineering. Lol
It works - mine has been on for 6 + yrs.

Intake boots :
Cut off old ones. Use soap or Vaseline (not a bunch), move split enuff to slide new intake boots onto pipe (overshoot one side till both are done), I had to loosen the bracket under the carb, & install clamps.
It's fiddly & you may invent some new curse words but I've done it many times cuz it saves an engine drop.

Best luck ... stay safe

jinx
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" It's not valuable unless you learn something from an experience. " Henry Ford

It's not unlike the same difference

You can't push a rope


VALVES (cold)
POINTS
TIMING
CARB (fully warmed engine)

SCRAPE ALL GROUNDS

My Craigslist rescued 100 footer :
1971 Standard Bug
1776cc dual port
034 distributor
38mm EGAS Carburetor

[SirDorfsalot]

[Eric&Barb]

[SirDorfsalot]

Welp. New studs put in the cart too then. Kind of expensive for 10 studs but I assume they're made out of special metal? Dunno. I may shop around for them too.

https://www2.cip1.com/vhd-n14-3935-10/
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1974 Type 1 Standard Beetle (stock-ish), 1985 Pontiac Fiero GT (3800 swapped), 2012 Honda Civic (daily)

[Eric&Barb]

[SirDorfsalot]

Gotcha. I'll have to give the studs a closer look before I order and see what I want to do. I might as well pull the rear tin off and start spraying all the nuts with penetrant anyway.
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1974 Type 1 Standard Beetle (stock-ish), 1985 Pontiac Fiero GT (3800 swapped), 2012 Honda Civic (daily)

[Cusser]

I would NOT even consider replacing non-broken exhaust studs. Those who have experienced these break when removing nuts will confirm this !!!!

A thread chaser die (8mm x 1.25mm) is a decent idea though.
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1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297

[SirDorfsalot]

Ok, I'll leave well enough alone then. I do have metric dies I can chase the threads with and I'll put a little anti-seize on the threads.

I bought a basket case 1986 Pontiac Fiero about 15 years ago that I had to pull the heads when several of the studs snapped. It was not fun but it was a good learning experience. At the very least the VW heads are easy to get at and pull in comparison but its not like I want to add to my project goals if I don't have to since I just want to get the car running well enough for car show season a big VW meet in Arkansas in August.
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1974 Type 1 Standard Beetle (stock-ish), 1985 Pontiac Fiero GT (3800 swapped), 2012 Honda Civic (daily)

[toxicavenger70]

[SirDorfsalot]