Okrasa 36hp distributor options

[Lowlightmafia]

Hi, I’m finally having a 36hp engine built to get around from show to show and some longer distance drives with better power while being mildly quite. Have all the parts ready to build but want some advice on the distributor.

Simple build
WW 69 crank
WW high performance cam
WW okrasa heads (stock compression)
Dual 32 zenith carbs
GB sump
All balanced
The rest is bone stock

Going into a stock lowlight vert

I have an 010, 022, and 019 distributor. Wanted to find out the pros and cons of each distributor for this build?

Also would it be worth looking into a magneto or is it not worth it from a performance/ regular driving standpoint compared to the above distributors?

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[PeteSC]

[Bub]

[Vedderism]

I daily drive a bone stock 1200 with the WW Okrasa kit on a 010. Runs perfectly fine with no issues.

[esde]

All that investment and staying with 6.6:1 compression? I think the bump in compression is possibly the cheapest power increase you'll get.

Do the zeniths have a vacuum port? If so you could try the vjur4 br8, which is basically an 019 mechanically with an adjustable vacuum advance can. I've had the idea to swap 010 guts into one, which would make an 010 with adjustable vacuum advance. In my spare, spare time someday..
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modok wrote:
Bent cranks are silent but gather no moss. I mean, ah, something like that.

[Glenn]

[Alstrup]

On a 30/36 hp or even a 1286 cc Okrasa engine there can be some truth to the 010 works ok. Reason is the hemi ish combustion chamber which wants relatively high advance in spite of the small bore. On a newer type 1 it is not so. If a 010 makes a normal set up type 1 engine run better than a 009 or 019 something is definitely wrong. Again, if the engine has been cut for semi hemi chamber shape the 010 can sort of come back to be the choice.

I accept and agree that the old school way of doing it is to slap a mechanical only distributor on these engines when the get converted to dual carbs. That said, Esde has a point in his way of thinking. Problem is, the way he wants to do it is,,, complicated. The better way is to use the BR8 distributor "as is". I do not remember exactly how it is laid ou inside, it has been a while, but reducing the mecanical advance curve 3-4 degrees and loosening the initial advance a little can make for a huge change in power pick up. I did this to a German customers 1385 cc Okrasa and it picked up 4 hp!!! @ 2500 rpm.

Wrt the vacum take off. - On the PBI/PCI/PBIC carbs there is a casting on the "accelleration pump side" of the body which can relatively easy be drilled out so you can have ported vacum to the can. Start out with a small drill, like say a 1,5 mm. and see where the hole comes out in relation to the butterfly. Then you can enlarge the hole in the direction you want/need for you to get the signal you want. When doing ported vacum the idea is to not have a vacum signal until 1250-1300 rpm. Some people want an even higher switch point, but I find that 1250-1300 is fine and it can also help a lot in throttle response from lower rpms.
Once you get the signal strength and in the area you want you can fine tune the actual advance with the adjuster on the distributor.
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https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=435993

[Lowlightmafia]

Thank you everyone for the advise. I prefer not to use a vacuum canister as iv had problems in the past on stock 36hp builds. Iv been using an 022 on a stock 36hp with ww heads/ww dual carbs and it runs alright for what it is. So this build will be cam, crank plus heads to give some power with smooth cruising. The reason for the zeniths and cast dizzy is purely for the aesthetic of the engine. It seems like the unanimous decision is to go with a 010 dizzy and im going to use that.

With that said I am talking with a mad scientist at blackline racing to build something that will push the envelope of the 36 for a 59 hard top ghia. Should be a fun project after I finish this easy one.