Help me get a plan together for a buggy

[72Pstroke]

I am getting started rebuilding a fiberglass buggy that has been in the family since 1980. Dad had several of these when I was a kid (I'm 58 now).
Plans for the car will be a driver, but I can see us doing some prerunning with it.
It currently is swingaxle, I bought an IRS pan to go under it.
My first question is regarding weld in rear torsion adjusters. I see them priced from $90 or so to $400. I don't like to overspend, but I don't like to do things twice. Are the cheap ones junk? Which one do you guys recommend?

I am leaning toward a mild mid travel build. I only have a couple inches of room to move the front beam forward, so thinking about converting the front beam to kingpin and some 2" longer front arms.

Due to space constraints and not wanting to cut the body up, I think I am going to be limited to running torsion bars on the rear. My thoughts here are some 2x2 rear arms. I am unsure about shock packaging. Is there a way to make this work with the stock upper mount?
I bought a body lift for it, I plan on installing it when I swap pans.
Plans include front disc brakes, converting to 5 on 205 front and rear and a full cage. As far as power goes, I am undecided if it will stay VW or go to an Ecotec.

Thanks for the help.

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[jsturtlebuggy]

Have you thought about using adjustable spring plates instead of a center torsion adjuster?
They work and are easier to install. I am using them on several different buggies I have now for years.
This is my Meyers Manx Kick Out that I redid.

I rebuilt my whole chassis using 1-1/2 x 4 in rectangular tubing on outer perimeter and pushed front beam out 2in. Beam is stock width 8in shock towers that fits under body.
Front suspension is stock length trailing arms with Latest Rage Combo spindles, SACO rack And pinion steering using 8in travel Fox Shocks and getting 10.5in suspension travel.
My rear suspension I am using Laser Innovation 1in longer stock width trailing arms. I have 10.5in of suspension travel with it using 8in travel Fox Shocks mounted under the body.
Hopefully this may give you an idea of some things that can be done.

_________________
Joseph
Fair Oaks/Orangevale, CA
Elrod Motorsports
Motion Tire Motorsports
Having fun with Dune Buggies since 1970
Into Volkswagens since 1960

[72Pstroke]

Joseph,
Your buggy looks great!
Thanks for the ideas. I had not considered adjustable spring plates. I think that is a better solution than the weld in adjusters.
I see pricing all over the map. What brand spring plate are you using?
You are running king pin in the front, correct?
Tim

[jsturtlebuggy]

The spring plates are SwayAway ones and I am using 23.5mm diameter 26-9/16 in length torsion bars from a type 3 Squareback. Using a little larger then stock Bug torsion bar because of longer trailing arm.
I have and still use the adjustable spring plates that are made in China on other buggies for many years without problems.
Yes the front suspension has been switched to a king and link from the original ball joint that was on it. I am not using the stock frame head for mounting beam. I cut it off and built new extended mount using 1-1/2in round tubing.
_________________
Joseph
Fair Oaks/Orangevale, CA
Elrod Motorsports
Motion Tire Motorsports
Having fun with Dune Buggies since 1970
Into Volkswagens since 1960

[72Pstroke]

Thanks for the information.
Are the type 3 torsion bars the same splines as type 1?

[jsturtlebuggy]

Yes the torsion bars splines are the same as type 1.
Using the stock type 3 torsion bars for was a cheaper then buying the aftermarket SwayAway torsion bars to getting the higher spring rate.
_________________
Joseph
Fair Oaks/Orangevale, CA
Elrod Motorsports
Motion Tire Motorsports
Having fun with Dune Buggies since 1970
Into Volkswagens since 1960