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1969 Autostick expert needed
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Jeffhoehn
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 30, 2023 4:14 pm    Post subject: 1969 Autostick expert needed Reply with quote

When I turn the key on I can hear/feel the solenoid activate. The neutral switch works because it will not crank in gear. I put a new shifter contact in it and checked the wire. I am assuming you should hear the solenoid activate with the key on but I am not sure. It also gets very hot while car is running. I just need someone who has worked on these systems and really understands what could be wrong. There is absolutely no pressure to activate the pump and disengage the clutch. All hosed are new and not collapsing except the small one from the carb to the solenoid. Please ask me what else you need to know. I would love to talk with someone in person should you be near Birmingham,Al. Or on the phone.
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mukluk
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 30, 2023 5:20 pm    Post subject: Re: 1969 Autostick expert needed Reply with quote

The shift solenoid should not automatically click/activate as soon as you turn the ignition on. If it does that indicates either the shifter contact wiring is shorted to ground or the contacts are adjusted too close. The solenoid should only activate when you physically move the shift lever and cause the contacts to close.

Have a read:
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mukluk
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 30, 2023 5:22 pm    Post subject: Re: 1969 Autostick expert needed Reply with quote

Shift lever diagram and contact adjustment courtesy of glutamodo:
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sb001
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 30, 2023 6:07 pm    Post subject: Re: 1969 Autostick expert needed Reply with quote

Jeffhoehn wrote:
When I turn the key on I can hear/feel the solenoid activate. The neutral switch works because it will not crank in gear. I put a new shifter contact in it and checked the wire. I am assuming you should hear the solenoid activate with the key on but I am not sure.


As stated above the solenoid should only activate when you shift gears. The noise you are hearing when you turn the key to the on position is just vacuum evacuating from the vacuum tank under the left rear fender (mine does the same thing.)

Jeffhoehn wrote:
There is absolutely no pressure to activate the pump and disengage the clutch.


By "pump" do you mean the control valve? That is a solenoid-operated vacuum control valve not a "pump"-- it is what controls sending vacuum through to the clutch diaphragm servo pictured in one of the excerpted pages above.

If you cannot shift with the engine running, and you are sure the contacts in the base of the shifter are properly set so as to contact each other when you shift (as mentioned above) then my first suspect would be your clutch servo diaphragm is shot.
First (easiest) thing to check is the wire going from your ignition coil over to the control valve, this should have an 8 amp inline fuse, check to make sure that fuse is good.
If so, try this test: (engine off) remove left rear wheel, locate the clutch servo canister attached to the transmission:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Pull off the hose going to that canister and cover that port with your thumb, then pull outward on the clutch servo arm, with your thumb covering that hose port the canister should retain pressure and that arm should remain in the outward position. If it sinks back into the canister then your diaphragm is shot. There are replacement diaphragm kits available.

Jeffhoehn wrote:
It also gets very hot while car is running.


This issue is most likely unrelated to the autostick issues, if you can please post pictures of your engine bay, and do you know where/ how you have the timing set?
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Tom K.
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PostPosted: Mon May 01, 2023 12:56 pm    Post subject: Re: 1969 Autostick expert needed Reply with quote

Or if you prefer videos ...


Link

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PostPosted: Thu May 11, 2023 2:04 pm    Post subject: Re: 1969 Autostick expert needed Reply with quote

I ALSO HAVE A AUTOSTICK, I REPLACED ALL VACUUM HOSES, AND THE SWITCH IN THE SHIFTER, THE CLUTCH SERVO OPERATES, THE CONTROL VALVE OPERATES, I CAN SHIFT INTO ALL GEARS, REAR WHEELS DON'T TURN. I THOUGHT THE BRAKES WERE STUCK BECUSE I COULD NOT TURN REAR WHEELS BY HAND. REMOVED WHEELS AND BRAKE HUBS AXLES TURN WITH HUBS OFF BOTH FORWARD AND REVERSE. REINSTALLED THE HUBS AND NOW AXLES WON'T TURN IN ANY GREAR. BUT I CAN TURN THEM BY HAND. CAN ANYONE POINT ME IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION I WOULD LIKE TO KEEP THE AUTOSTICK.
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PostPosted: Thu May 11, 2023 2:10 pm    Post subject: Re: 1969 Autostick expert needed Reply with quote

bobalowbill wrote:
I also have an autostick, I replaced all vacuum hoses, and the switch in the shifter, the clutch servo operates, the control valve operates, I can shift into all gears, rear wheels don't turn. I thought the brakes were stuck because i could not turn rear wheels by hand. Removed wheels and brake hubs axles turn with hubs off both forward and reverse. Reinstalled the hubs and now axles won't turn in any gear. but I can turn them by hand. Can anyone point me in the right direction I would like to keep the autostick.


Fixed it for ya.
(my ears are still ringing)
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PostPosted: Thu May 11, 2023 3:24 pm    Post subject: Re: 1969 Autostick expert needed Reply with quote

@bobalowbill
Check for low ATF level. If the fluid is filled to spec, check to see if you're getting ATF to and through the dual oil pump on the engine and that it's getting to and through the transaxle.

Check to see if either of the CV shafts have sheared or missing hardware.

Pull the rear hubcaps and check to see if either of the rear axle nuts spin when the car is running and in gear (indicates sheared splines in the drum).
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PostPosted: Thu May 11, 2023 6:07 pm    Post subject: Re: 1969 Autostick expert needed Reply with quote

Try this. Lift the wheel wheels off the ground on stands . After the engine is started and running, shift into any gear. Then walk back and unplug your control valve. Watch to see if the wheels might start spinning. You are basically checking to see if your servo is properly letting go of the clutch. Let us know what you find.
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PostPosted: Fri May 12, 2023 8:59 am    Post subject: Re: 1969 Autostick expert needed Reply with quote

bobalowbill wrote:
I THOUGHT THE BRAKES WERE STUCK BECUSE I COULD NOT TURN REAR WHEELS BY HAND. REMOVED WHEELS AND BRAKE HUBS AXLES TURN WITH HUBS OFF BOTH FORWARD AND REVERSE. REINSTALLED THE HUBS AND NOW AXLES WON'T TURN IN ANY GREAR. BUT I CAN TURN THEM BY HAND..


Are you saying with the wheels and brake hubs removed the axles will spin with the engine running and in gear?? Or are you just saying you can spin the axles by hand with those parts removed?
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PostPosted: Fri May 12, 2023 1:16 pm    Post subject: Re: 1969 Autostick expert needed Reply with quote

I started the engine put it in gear removed power from control valve and the clutch servo stayed pulled out.
I have it up on jack stands with the engine started in gear and the wheels and hubs are removed the axles turn.
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PostPosted: Fri May 12, 2023 1:38 pm    Post subject: Re: 1969 Autostick expert needed Reply with quote

bobalowbill wrote:
I started the engine put it in gear removed power from control valve and the clutch servo stayed pulled out.
I have it up on jack stands with the engine started in gear and the wheels and hubs are removed the axles turn.

Are you saying that the clutch servo is not releasing the clutch lever/arm on the transaxle? If yes, the control valve is sticking or you have the large vacuum hoses for the servo and vacuum tank reversed at the control valve.
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PostPosted: Fri May 12, 2023 5:30 pm    Post subject: Re: 1969 Autostick expert needed Reply with quote

I'm having a little trouble understanding your update. If the axles are now spinning from engine power with the control valve disabled, then I would next loosen the shift linkage under the shifter. Plug in the control valve. Keep the engine on and in gear as you loosen the linkage until the wheels start to spin. But if you go to far out you will get gear grind. Keep loosening, shifting, etc. Play with it and dial it in till you like it. Too tight and the wheels don't spin. Too loose and you'll get gear grind when shifting.
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PostPosted: Sat May 13, 2023 12:24 pm    Post subject: Re: 1969 Autostick expert needed Reply with quote

I observed that when the engine is running, in gear or not that when I move the shifter to the left or right the clutch servo moves in an out is that suppose to happen, I am not pushing down on the shifter. wheels still not turning.
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PostPosted: Sat May 13, 2023 2:58 pm    Post subject: Re: 1969 Autostick expert needed Reply with quote

bobalowbill wrote:
I observed that when the engine is running, in gear or not that when I move the shifter to the left or right the clutch servo moves in an out is that suppose to happen, I am not pushing down on the shifter. wheels still not turning.


It sounds like the clutch servo is working properly but the clutch itself inside the transmission is not engaging.
Couple of things to check before concluding the issue is internal to the transmission:
1. Easiest-- observe whether the clutch arm -- the curved arm sticking out of the transmission attached to the end of the servo rod with a hinge pin-- is also moving when the servo rod moves in/out:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Can you ensure the pin is in place and the clutch arm is moving normally with the servo rod. If you can, check the other end of the clutch arm where it is attached to the throwout bearing rod:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Make sure the clamp bolt is there and not missing or loose.

2. Check the adjuster sleeve on servo rod- also shown in my picture above. This sleeve adjusts how much the servo rod moves in/ out and thus ultimately the play in the movement of the clutch itself. You want approx 4mm of space between the outer edge of the servo canister mounting bracket and that end of the sleeve. If you need to adjust it, loosen the locknut on the other side of the sleeve (NOTE: it is opposite-threaded so turn the locknut to the RIGHT to loosen.)
Then thread the sleeve down toward the servo canister until you have approx 4mm between it and the servo mounting bracket, then tighten the locknut.

If none of this is the issue I'm afraid it is probably internal to the transmission. Tom K has a good thread on autostick disassembly.

Do you hear any weird sounds when trying to engage a gear
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Bosch 113905205AE autostick distributor


Last edited by sb001 on Mon May 15, 2023 12:23 pm; edited 1 time in total
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PostPosted: Sat May 13, 2023 7:54 pm    Post subject: Re: 1969 Autostick expert needed Reply with quote

bobalowbill wrote:
I observed that when the engine is running, in gear or not that when I move the shifter to the left or right the clutch servo moves in an out is that suppose to happen, I am not pushing down on the shifter. wheels still not turning.


And, to confirm, these symptoms persist even when the control valve is unplugged?
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PostPosted: Wed May 17, 2023 9:43 am    Post subject: Re: 1969 Autostick expert needed Reply with quote

Any updates on this??
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Bosch 113905205AE autostick distributor
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PostPosted: Thu May 18, 2023 6:36 am    Post subject: Re: 1969 Autostick expert needed Reply with quote

I pulled the engine yesterday had metal shavings in torque converter going to pull transmission pan today to see if there is metal shavings there
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PostPosted: Thu May 18, 2023 6:55 am    Post subject: Re: 1969 Autostick expert needed Reply with quote

just to clarify, the ATF fluid and gear oil have no contact with each other, metal shavings are unlikely to mix between the two, of course the engine oil and ATF can mix at the combined oil pump seals should they fail, these trans are somewhat notorious in my experience for rusted stuck clutches after extended moist storage and there is virtually no posibility of freeing up a stuck clutch without transmission removal and disassembly due to the torque convertor slippage, you can't just free up a stuck clutch like on a standard manual trans, also examine the provided wiring diagrams, the factory wiring and neutral safety switch bridges the clutch solenoid in neutral AND while shifting, that means that idling in neutral the solenoid is powered up, getting hot and the clutch diaphram is pulling the clutch arm, I usually modify my wiring harness to allow the clutch/solenoid to remain engaged/unpowered in neutral just to prevent excess heat and power draw at idle
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PostPosted: Thu May 18, 2023 7:22 am    Post subject: Re: 1969 Autostick expert needed Reply with quote

billmetric wrote:
just to clarify, the ATF fluid and gear oil have no contact with each other, metal shavings are unlikely to mix between the two, of course the engine oil and ATF can mix at the combined oil pump seals should they fail, these trans are somewhat notorious in my experience for rusted stuck clutches after extended moist storage and there is virtually no posibility of freeing up a stuck clutch without transmission removal and disassembly due to the torque convertor slippage, you can't just free up a stuck clutch like on a standard manual trans, also examine the provided wiring diagrams, the factory wiring and neutral safety switch bridges the clutch solenoid in neutral AND while shifting, that means that idling in neutral the solenoid is powered up, getting hot and the clutch diaphram is pulling the clutch arm, I usually modify my wiring harness to allow the clutch/solenoid to remain engaged/unpowered in neutral just to prevent excess heat and power draw at idle


This is a terrible idea IMO, you'll wear out your clutch lining WAAYYY faster by having it re-engage every time you're passing through neutral to shift and then where will you be, having to disassemble the tranny anyway (or find another one.) The reason the autosticks are known for their clutch longevity is precisely because they don't re-engage all the time and the system prevents them from slipping like drivers might a 4 speed one.
Also the solenoid control valves in these autosticks typically last decades, I'm still on the original in my 69. The absolute last thought in my mind is my control valve going out.
It boggles my mind how some folks think they know better than the German engineers who spent decades and tons of money RD'ing these things.
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