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DWELL
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Criswell
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 09, 2004 4:43 am    Post subject: DWELL Reply with quote

ok, i know how to set points gap , how the heck to ya set the dwell ? is it the same as setting the gap, only ya kepp gapping it more or less to get the correct dwell , instead of the recomended gap (.016 i think ) > I dont remember exactly where mine was when i checked it last, but ill be rechecking it today, i believe my dwell was 47 and its supposed to be 50 if im not mistaken, ill know later when i have my Muir guide in front of me.

anyways, someone please explain how to achieve dwell, or post a link

thanks

Mike
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incynr8
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 09, 2004 5:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dwell is a result of point gap setting.
48-52 is the acceptable range, and .016-.018 is required to achieve the range usually.
50 is the dwell to shoot for.
So points are set, Dwell is measured.

Al
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77westy
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 10, 2004 2:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I set the gap on my points to what I thought was the right gap but when I checked dwell it said 80! Does that mean the gap on the points is too big or too small?

Also, I just wanted to know if I am checking dwell correctly. Im using one of those voltmeter type gauges that has RPM's and dwell. I just switched between RPM and dwell on the meter. I did not change where I was connecting the leads (a ground and the coil).

Thanks,
MK
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Randy in Maine
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 10, 2004 2:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Make sure that you are reading the dwell angle scale for a 4 cylinder not a 6 or 8.
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79SuperVert
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 11, 2004 6:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

MK, I had the same problem on my 79 super and I never solved it. I always got the gap correct but the dwell was much too high. Car ran OK so I gave up and left it at the correct gap.
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ryansantin
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 12, 2004 6:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Too close, just keep playing with it, it can be frustrating and time consuming the first few times but them it will be set correctly to the timing scale. use a good light

open a little test close a little test etc. YOU CAN DO IT Smile
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Duncwarw
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 12, 2004 6:53 pm    Post subject: Am I wrong? Reply with quote

It's been a long, long time, but I seem to recall having somebody crank the engine while I adjusted the points until reaching the correct dwell.

Was I dreaming? I think you can do it that way.
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ratwell
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 12, 2004 9:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

77westy wrote:
I set the gap on my points to what I thought was the right gap but when I checked dwell it said 80! Does that mean the gap on the points is too big or too small?

The smaller the gap, the larger the dwell and vice versa. It's because it's so hard to set with a feller gauge that a dwell meter is the way to make sure you got it right. It a pity there isn't a fine adjustment screw on the outside of the distributor...

Quote:
Also, I just wanted to know if I am checking dwell correctly. Im using one of those voltmeter type gauges that has RPM's and dwell. I just switched between RPM and dwell on the meter. I did not change where I was connecting the leads (a ground and the coil).

What does the manual say? Usually, the positive lead goes to terminal 1 on the coil and the negative lead goes to ground and you can switch it from rpm to dwell while connected.

A dwell reading of 50 makes the most power.

Duncwarw wrote:
It's been a long, long time, but I seem to recall having somebody crank the engine while I adjusted the points until reaching the correct dwell.

Was I dreaming? I think you can do it that way.

That works.
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phj
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 19, 2004 2:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've have been self-initiating in the voodoo arts of point gap setting.

I'm working on a Type 4 engine in a '72 bus with no hatch so I find it difficult or impossible to tell when the points are open the greatest. I've been guessing and testing with feelers while rotating the distributor mm's at a time.

I have found that .016" yields an extremely low dwell: 40*. So I have been experimenting with using thinner and thinner feeler gauges, down to .013". My dwell's still low (44*) but within spec. It's quite a pain having to set it, then replace the rotor and cap, then start the engine, then go back to read the meter only to see it's still off.

Does someone have a good technique for setting this gap right the first time?

Patricia

P.S. I edited this to show actual dwell which is my 8-cyl scale reading multiplied by 2.
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ratwell
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 19, 2004 2:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

phj wrote:
I have found that .016" yields an extremely low dwell: 40*. So I have been experimenting with using thinner and thinner feeler gauges, down to .013". My dwell's still low (44*) but within spec. It's quite a pain having to set it, then replace the rotor and cap, then start the engine, then go back to read the meter only to see it's still off.

Does someone have a good technique for setting this gap right the first time?

I used to do two things:

- first, you can't use the notch in the distributor to determine where TDC is. It's not accurate enough. Since I didn't have a degree wheel for my type 4 engine I would position of the timing mark on the pulley to line up with a chosen spot of the NACH lettering on the timing scale.

- second I had to figure out which feeler gauge to use with that timing scale position and the error my adjustment introduced to give me an acceptable dwell. If it was 48 or 52 degrees I'd give up and consider it set unless I got this close on the first two tries.

I can't recommend enough getting rid of points especially if you have a 72 with no hatch.
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