Remote Oil cooler Question

[Schepp]

How do you guys prevent the added capacity of an external oil cooler from draining back into the case after the car is parked? Is that something for concern?
Do I need to use a check valve or something?
If the cooler is higher than the engine what’s keeping the oil from draining back and over filling the case?

Also how do you recommend priming the system?
I’ve got an 8 pass Electra-cool Derale with a 10oz capacity. Including the lines the added capacity is about 16-20oz.

Thanks
Schepp

[DesertSasquatchXploration]

Your really only looking at the last pass of a aftermarket oil cooler and the hose that would drain back its not much. Also you need a vent for it to really drain like removing the oil fill cap when doing a oil change it drains faster.

[oprn]

If you are using a quality filter then it will have an anti drain back valve. Like already said though if the is no air getting into the system then drain back is very little.
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[Wulfthang]

Yeah, as stated a good quality oil filter will have an anti drain back valve in it. Once it's full, it pretty much stays full.

As far as priming it: If you're talking about a new engine oil prime, I don't know how that's done on a VW engine. On my Ford V6 engine, I used a long hex drive wrench on a drill stuck down thru the distributor hole to drive the oil pump. You can feel it as it's turning when it develops pressure!

If you're just wanting to prime it after it's been sitting for a few days, just spin the starter over with the ignition off.

[Schepp]

Thanks for the response guys.

As far as priming I’m talking about a new engine build and completely dry system. I’ve seen where people stuff grease into the oil pump to help with the suction but I’d be concerned about that grease clogging up the rest of the system once the oil starts flowing.

Maybe if I fill the filter with oil first that’ll help with the priming?

I’m using a Wix spin-on type filter before the cooler and a thermostat after the cooler for the electric fan.

[DesertSasquatchXploration]

Yea always pre fill the oil filter. If your using the fram ph8a or ford fla1 size filter that fits the ford 302 mustangs explorers etc. They take about 3/4 quarts

[Wulfthang]

Ok so how do you prime the oil pump on a VW engine? Most American made engines can be primed really nicely with a long Allen drive mounted in a drill poked down thru the distributor hole. I use an air drill because when the pump gets oil, it slows the drill waaay down and I don't want to burn up an electric drill.

When I was building competition motorcycle engines and tranys, I would remove the spark plugs and spin the engine with a big two handled air motor so the engine could spin at low speed with no loads on it and circulate the fluids.

If I've let my Rat Rod Trail Rail sit for a week or so without running the engine, I like to leave the ignition switch off and just spin the engine a few times before starting. Just to stir things up before sparking the explosions!

But, how do you prime the oil pump on a conventional Bug type VW engine? If I remember correctly, that oil pump is driven right off the end of the cam shaft. Is that right? Is there a way to pre pump up the system? You'd have to spin the whole engine over, right?

[Schepp]

Yes the pump is driven off the face of the cam. What is the ideal way to prime the pump? That’s what I need to know. My engine will be complete by next weekend and ready for its first start in 3yrs!

Lightly grease the pump gears? Run it dry? What method do the pros recommend?

[cbeck]

I always pull off the coil wire and the oil return hose at the block. Spin engine over until oil comes out of the return hose. Reconnect return hose. Crank over with coil wire still off until my oil pressure gauge moves. Reconnect coil wire and hope its timed close enough to fire off.
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[Wulfthang]

Yeah, I think what cbeck said is the best way to prime a VW Bug type engine. A remote starter switch would be good to have for that so you can be next to the engine as it cranks.

Whoever is building your engine should already be dipping gears, bearings, pistons, rings, etc. etc. etc. in a lube as it's being assembled. Fill the oil filter as it's installed and then hit the starter without the ignition being on. I'd pull the spark plugs just to remove as much load as possible for your starter.

For the oil pump gears, maybe mix a grease with some oil to make a soup?

This is what I'd do based on my experience and knowledge but that doesn't include very much VW engine experience.

[oprn]

Years ago Dad and I welded 2 ends on a 4" pipe, put a filler cap, outlet tube that went to the bottom, a filter and an air fitting on it. We just put 3 quarts of oil in it, hook a hose up to the oil pressure switch port, put air pressure on the pipe and fill the engine with oil while turning it over a few times by hand.

You could build the same thing with an old propane bottle.
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[jimmyhoffa]

The goal is to get oil to all components of the engine with as few revolutions as possible.

The two fastest ways I've found to do that are the pressure-pot method described above by OPRN, or filling a tube on the output side of the oil pump and rotating the engine by hand a few times backwards. This fills the pickup tube down to the sump, which you will have already added oil to. Pre-fill whatever external oil circuitry, and you have instant oil pressure on startup. Credit to Brian_e for making me wise to that second method.
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[Schepp]

This is all great advice! Thanks.

I’m the builder of the engine and yes everything has been coated with assembly lube.
This is the first VW engine I’ve built and I really don’t want to screw this part up.