Advisable to open/rebuild transaxle if no known issues?

[BanjoMan64]

This is my first restoration, and I’m still very new to everything. I’ve been rebuilding a 64’ beetle for the last two years. I have the body off the chassis right now, and I’m wondering if I should open up the transaxle. The car was running and driving before I starting rebuilding it and didn’t seem to have any issues shifting into all four gears.

I have some mechanic friends telling me that I should open up the transaxle and check for any wear while it’s out and accessible. However, I also have other mechanic friends telling me that if there aren’t any issues I should leave it be and save myself the hassle of rebuilding it. Neither of these friends have worked on beetles, though.

What is typically advisable in this instance? Is there anything on the transaxle that should be routinely replaced/inspected? Or should I leave it until it gives me cause for concern?

[SLO-N-LO-69]

The trans and engine are the only part of my 73 I didn't rebuild after a 5 year sit. They ran fine before so I threw them back in and everything is fine to this day. I would leave it alone.

[Cusser]

[67rustavenger]

Another vote for, "If it ain't broke. Don't fix it!"

Change the gear lube, install new axle boots and call it, "Good to go."
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[esde]

Change the fluid and drive it. If there are big chunks in the fluid, make a mental note that a rebuild may be in the future. Same if it whines or is noisy..
But if it shifts between all gears without grinding, don't mess with it.
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modok wrote:
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[gt1953]

Agreed change fluid drive it for a while thousand miles or two change it again.
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Volkswagen: We tune what we drive.
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72 type 1
72 Squareback
({59 Euro bug, 62, 63, 67, 68, 69, 73 type ones 68 & 69 type two, 68 Ghia all sold})

[wdfifteen]

[VW_Jimbo]

Stick it in the car. Fill it up with gear oil. Drive it as is. It will most likely live past this restoration, too! Next time you restore the Bug, rebuild it then!
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Jimbo

There is never enough time to do it right the first time, but all the time necessary the second time!

[VWNate]

Don't forget to clean the drain plug magnets and add one to the filler plug, if the drain plugs don't have magnets add some .

Don't freak out because there are jagged looking slivers of steel on the magnet(s) this is normal SWARF and isn't cause for concern as long as it's quiet and shifts well .

Replace the boots and ensure the seams at at the 9 O'clock level, not straight up .
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-Nate

One last Beetle : 1959 #113 DeLuxe survivor ~ 36HP & full synchro tranny, 6 volts etc.

[toxicavenger70]

This is what I would do to it. I would check the shifter cone to ensure it is not leaking, replacing the transmission bushing to the chassis, check the side differentials for leakage, replace the transmission fluid, check the rear main seal for leakage, and replace the boots if they are cracked. That way if it does work out you won't be removing it later on for some simple maintenance items.

[Helfen]

[FPGT72]

Just this past weekend I put the trans back in my car. I was having the same thought. However mine was not running when it came apart so I really do have no idea if the thing even has teeth on the gears.

What I figured I would do is after the engine is finished and installed I will do a test drive of the "pan" with a bucket and gas can, see if it moves and if anything sounds funny.

At that point if something is messed up it is not a huge deal to pop the engine off and deal with the issue.

At least this is my plan.

[clarkster75]

I lean, too, for changing the oil and axle boots, and driving it. At worst, you are only down pulling the engine so you can pull the Trans to replace/repair. If it works well with fresh oil you just saved a lot of time dealing with trying to pull rear wheel bearings. Unless, you have a friend/club member with a puller. It's a fair amount of work pulling a trans but not too bad. Like Click and Clack said, "you could ask the doctor to put in a new heart with a transplant, but why, if you don't need it?"

[markendee]

Definitely check and if not already alloy, change the detent hole plugs, all four of them. (check the 8mm one hiding behind the stud)

Regards,

Mark.

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